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There are two directions that I give my dog for walking nicely on (and off) leash. There is "let's go" which means do not pull on the lead (or it means comes towards me if they are off lead). Then there is the command that most owners think is "too fancy" or an impossibility, which is the heel.
The heel is no harder to teach than walking nicely (ie not pulling) on a "let's go" command. The "let's go" command is used for informal walks where you don't mind that your dog sniffs the dandelions or marks the tree. You only mind that the dog does not put pressure on the leash. The heel is a position that the dog must take. This command is great for getting a dog to focus on what they are doing (as opposed to the dog walking directly towards you for instance) or for when you are holding or handling something else, and really don't want to trip over your dog. Heel is also great for city type situations so they don't wrap their leash around everything and everybody.
Below is a video of me and dog/human reactive American Pit Bull Terrier, Gigi, taking our first city walk in the town of Portsmouth NH. She walked by two dogs and did amazingly well
Not the best heel I have ever seen, but Gigi was just beginning to learn about distractions (especially ones that she wanted to attack) vs walking well on leash and trusting me to keep us safe.
This video of Jackie and I doing a run thru, is a better example of what a more fully trained heel (complete with auto sit) should look like.
http://video.google.com/videosearch?hl=en&q=+%22Jackie+Run+Thru%22&emb=on##
Jackie was a dog that I despaired of ever being in public off leash, never mind competing off leash! He earned his Companion Dog last 5/2008 (which means he had to have an acceptable heel, among other things, both on and off lead), and is now being readied for open competition. Whether this is in a ring or on the street, a well trained heel should look essentially the same. You may need to make allowances for an unexpected elephant in the middle of the road LOL, but the dog should be prepared and trained for any expected distractions.
The first week of training should be all about space and staying in the owners space. This is done with posted on this blog called "sit on the dog".
The second week begins with a dog walking with the owner between two points on longe line from days 1-3. I go into this in more detail in my training manual, but simply all the owner needs to worry about is walking between the two points without speaking to or paying much attention to the dog. I change this up a bit for puppies and some other individual needs. Until I mention it, this is all in very mildly distracting venues.
The second week days 4-6, you have notated some things that distracted your dog in your immediate area. You probably know of some without even observing your dog during this process (open doors, open gate, end of driveway, cat, kids, neighbors, food). Now it's time to set your dog up with these distractions, but the owner moves in the opposite direction every time the dog is not paying attention. This sets the dog up for the need to learn to pay attention to you, because "Dog Knows" where you might go next. Your dog needs to keep an eye on you now, so he doesn't loose you
The whole point of this is you are getting your dog to think this is THEIR great idea. Staying near you is the only way to keep tabs on you.
The second week on day 7, you begin preparing for heel work but still on the longe line (15-20 feet of line that you have kept completely slack this whole time). This means that you move in the opposite direction as soon as the dog starts to get anywhere near five feet away from you. At this point, and for most dogs, when they see you move they will go towards you immediately. Most dogs do not get to the end of the line at this point.
Exercises like this can be modified in a bunch of different ways to the needs of your client. My mastiff client, Baby Bella, has a spidery toy that is dangled to have her dash up. Treats work as well. For the right temperament of dogs, a knowledgeable and well trained correction helps them right along. For corrections, the point is that it needs to be done well, it's not appropriate to nag or choke on the dogs neck.
The next week, you are working on the heel. If you are going to be sloppy on easy things like position and leash handling, then this will be a waste of time for you. You also want a trainer that knows the importance of these things. It is not hard at all to do this correctly, and it confuses me every time why someone would not train a heel in the correct manner, whether for competition or a walk down the street. It's just not that difficult, especially if you are a knowledgeable trainer.
These directions take up pages and pages with good information, so I won't print them here. Plus, if you don't know what you are doing, it's best to have a knowledgeable trainer guide you through the process. At some point, you are rotating locations that you are practicing your exercises which have built a language one word at a time for your dog. I pick four different outdoor areas and two different indoor areas that I do my training. You are working your dog about an hour a day 6-7 days a week while you are doing this. Someone who will be successful will do this cheerfully, patiently, consistently, and enjoy the process.
In the end, the most awesome gift and reward that you will give your dog is increased time with you and increased freedom. No treat or toy in the world trumps that:)
You will notice in my pictures AND video that the leash is completely loose. This is how it should looke with a dog in the midst of training or a trained dog. Any tightness of the leash is manipulating an untrained dog.
Regarding equipment, I personally do not like head halties or harnesses that cinch under the arm pits, as the correction never stops even if the dog is walking correctly. These tend to rub sensitive dog's skin raw and make it uncomfortable to walk!! Not my personal goal for my or my client's dogs.
Regarding classes, I prefer to offer private classes first, and only group classes to my students who have done the work. The reason? Well an instructor is not going to know all dogs in their class really well when they meet them for the first time, which could lead to some unexpected and not safe situations. Beyond that though, the human and canine do not get the one on one attention that they deserve to work with this issue. You are starting with maximum distraction which makes it hard for everyone to learn.
This particular posting was inspired by a question on mainpets.mainetoday.com.
A Ian Dunbar's observations in the following video:
Above you can see the main points that I got out of Ian's following video:
The first premise is that dog training is unlike any other profession. I am sure that quite a few teachers will be surprised to hear this! Having been in another profession in my life, that of an accountant in a public accounting firm, I would have to submit the difference is not that people magically listen to your advice in another profession. Additionally, one of my biggest beefs with Ian's talks (while charming and funny to those not looking for any real content), is the way he talks down to people, or doesn't even think that there may be a valid reason why an owner is objecting to a solution. In accounting, I had plenty of owners of corporations not listen and not take advice. In one extreme case, they were arrested at an airport as they smuggled their "non reported" cash out of the country. Unfortunately, the officials did not assume this was just a matter of skimming off the top, but thought it was a drug deal. In other cases, upon listening to the client, we needed to find another or method or way for them, BECAUSE WHAT THEY EXPLAINED MADE SENSE.
If you suggestions make sense and end up working, you get an owner that will follow your advice and methods to the best of their abilities (there is a learning curve you know based on the expertise of the client). People are not by nature stupid or ignorant, but they do expect that you will somehow prove what you are saying, and your experience with what you are saying. It could be that day that they get the proof, or it could be the next week that you see them. If the proof doesn't come along after they ARE LISTENING and doing the work, you will loose your credibility.
It also makes sense to screen clients so that you don't take people's money, who are simply not willing to train their dog. Most screening programs that a knowledgeable dog trainer creates can screen out about 95% of people that don't want to do the work with their dog, thereby saving them money and wasted time. Letting a client know, generally, what you are all about can help with that too. I think too many trainers will take on anybody just for a quick buck, rather than contemplating whether they will be able to help this person and dog out at all.
Premise number two, people use leadership as a vague term. Maybe, but I argue that every term is vague without a definition or example. These are not ground breaking observations here, people. I have several definitions and articles on leadership and what it means for my clients. It is not a vague term. And if it is vague, does that mean you discount leadership as a wrong way to go about things? I think we can all point to leaders (people that we want to emulate) that went about it well, and those that went about it badly. My first mentor in dog training is a very talented intelligent individual, but IMHO they went about things very badly. Their leadership skills were good in some areas, and counter productive in others. One can have good and bad leadership skills, and the trick is to pull out the good ones and give even more examples of good leadership skills. To me, the bottom line of leadership in a human and canine partnership is that the human is responsible for care and safety of the animal and all those around the animal (or canine). While I tighten up a bit more in that definition in my own writings, I think this is not a vague definition or mandate.
Premise number 3, owners just get it all wrong all of the time. I wish that were true (my bottom line would expand considerably), but I see some pretty well behaved dogs out there, who did not have the services of a dog trainer. Owners may get some things that they don't know about, or don't understand, or haven't figured out for themselves yet.....wrong. Not all owners get it wrong. Certainly if their dog is still alive by the time they see you, owners do not get EVERYTHING wrong.
The fact that Ian is saying this, is making me believe that he might actually be talking to dog trainers. I am hoping all these simple concepts are being shared with Novice Dog Trainers, and not Professional Dog Trainers. Many of Ians talks go like this, with no real knowledge being passed on at the end of the lecture. If you are going to talk about the actual definition punishment in dog training theory, for Gosh Sake be a little more detailed in the history of where it came from. That could be knowledge that someone, who knew very little to nothing about dog training, could take away from such a lecture.
The "trinity" that Ian then expands on is basically just the first point. Correction and reward are part of training. Really you don't say? The he talks about rewards being more or less depending on action. Then he equates correction with punishment !!!! Yipes, and says that it doesn't have to be scary.
By the way, punishment is an action that has taken place due to 1) failed training or 2) failed opportunity for training. A correction is an act that redirects the dog to a different (or correct) behavior. There is a huge and definite difference in MY dog training world between the two.
Punishment example would be:
More than one dog in a room. One dog is guarding something, but the human in charge does not see or pick up on the body language. Next thing you know, one dog is going for the other dog. I would jump in with a very strong body posture and tone of voice. I would most likely then confine the offending (and/or) non-listening party. However, this is not a correction or a training method.
Correction example would be (in the same instance):
More than one dog in a room. One dog is guarding something. Human notices and says "Let's Go" or "Crate" or "Sit" (we are assuming the dog knows, really knows, these terms) and redirects the dog to another action. Human does not stop watching at this point, but watches for an opportunity to continue the lesson.
If a dog has not been reliably trained to these commands, this might instead be the stepping on a dragging leash and walking the dog away from the area.