Sophie was a very young 8 weeks when she came to us. She is just 12 weeks now. Here are some training videos on her progress.
Day 1 and a couple of days after, Sophie was pretty shell shocked and scared. Probably only due to the breeder not handling her very much. Everything was so new.
Crate training and house training the beginning on Week 1:
Week 2 we are working on engagement. Sophie is a very independent Golden Retriever puppy, so I had to work very very hard to get her to interact with me for training. Luckily, we had a strong prey drive.
Week 2 Also starting the sit, down, and attention.
Week 3 worked also on sit, down, and attention. Also walking in the house on leash with distractions. Now this is her on week 4 starting on our outside and very distracting walks.
http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com
MAINE DOG TRAINING SERVICING DOG TRAINING NEEDS IN MAINE AND BEYOND. www.maindogtrainer.com
Wednesday, February 27, 2013
Friday, February 22, 2013
Dogs In Daycare, If You Are Turned Away Do Not Take It Personally
Should I give in to this, it is a mistake on my part. In fact, I can name a few times I did ignore my rules, and lived to regret that decision. There are very nice people and dogs out there. Some of them can not conform to the things that I need in order for them to be clients of a certain type.
This does not make them bad humans or dogs, but bad for certain situations in my business model. Many times, I will read negative reviews about another dog facility that turned away business. The dog's owner is usually quite offended, but often times I see this from the facility's standpoint. I also understand that the client can not see the real issue at hand, not having worked with so many dogs in one small area. They think their dog has been seen as a "bad" dog or a "problem" dog. This may not at all be the case, this dog just might not fit into either the pack or business model that this facility caters to.
The pack can be a tricky situation. Packs that work here are expected to have a certain level of basic obedience. If one does not have that level of basic obedience or a way to reinforce a command should the training not be up to par, I have been aware in the past that it causes problems. As time marches on, it is easy for a person like myself to forget the problems that can crop up, if I bend the rules for someone.
The problem with bringing a dog into a pack that can not respond to the first command given during distractions takes away from the leader's ability to promote well being within the pack. If that one dog is allowed to freedoms which they have not earned, it will cause problems. Should a problem occur, more than one dog may need to respond to a command in an immediately. It is not about just that one dog, but the relationship among the whole pack including me. Managing a pack is about teamwork between the human and all the canines in the group.
Another problem is that the other dogs who are well behaved loose their freedom by needing to be put from command to command more often, to keep the untrained dog from getting into sticky situations that they can not handle. The canine groups may not able to communicate to the newer member the ways in which they would like to be interacted with. Often I help this communication among unfamiliar members with the use of training which has produced workable commands. There are some dog day cares that cater to mostly untrained dogs by screening out other untrained temperaments that will not work in their structure.
Human owners who feel their dog is "trained well enough" often have suggestions for you in having their dog to come to your daycare. Often this includes commands either commands that do not work as they have not been taught to the dog or an expecatation of free training from the daycare provider. Often even when the owner sees their own suggestion does not work even for under their own guidance, the owner will not acknowledge that or just does not get the level of performance that is required. As a dog professional it's more important to see to the needs of the group than the one.
TFor a daycare owner and operatator to ignore that is a big mistake. My advice to other dog professionals is to not forget what your protocols are. If they have worked for you in the past, then please do not forsake them for the sake of not hurting someones feelings or offending them. It's better off for all involved if you just stick to your guns. In this economy, it's always hard to turn away business especially for a nice (yet untrained) dog and people. Sometimes, it's just the right thing to do.
Human clients please be aware that if you are turned away, it is nothing at all personal. There often is a larger scope to think about than just your dog. An area where a lot of dogs gather is so much different than a dog with your friends and their dogs that they see once a weekend at the beach. Dogs have relationships as much as we do. Like our relationships grow and change with other people, so do dog relationships especially in the beginning.
http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com/
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com
Saturday, February 16, 2013
Four Levels of Completing the Training Process
I don't know if most of the dog owning public is aware of the levels that we pass through when teaching a dog a certain command. Here are the four levels that I usually think of:
1) Demonstrate to the dog what you want him to do.You can do this by positioning or luring your dog into position. Dogs need to be shown what to do, because they don’t naturally know the things we take for granted that older dogs have already been taught. Obviously they don't understand our verbal cues, and need to be shown what they will correspond to in the future. In the Demonstration phase, the command is verbalized in conjunction with the luring or placing the dog into correct position.
2) Teach your dog what you want him/her to do (consistency and repetition). Let them know this is not a one-time command performance. There are rewards for the correct completion of a task Be consistent. Don’t tell your dog to “sit” unless you are ready to help him/her into a sit if they don’t quite understand it yet. This is still the teaching phase, and they need to know that this word isn’t one of the stream of sounds they hear from you each day. Don’t converse with your dog during training time They need to know that these command words have a meaning, and that is what we are teaching them. Other sounds in the day may not have a meaning, but our commands do.
Now once certain indicators are present, is the time you start to say the command BEFORE they go into position.
3) Learning: For dogs learning happens in that instant they analyze their choices. Those choices normally are non-compliance, flee, aggression, or comply. You want to give them a few seconds to contemplate their choice once you get beyond the teaching phase. Only compliance will allow them to be rewarded, and you want to do it as soon as the correct performance happens. As the exercises go on the three Ds will be marked as well (distance, duration, and distraction To end the session on a good note, you want to have the dog succeed at least four times in a row. If it takes way too many reps to get that four times in a row, you have most likely rushed the dog forward past their threshold. Now is the time to back up to where their performance was more reliable, and move in a slower fashion forward.
You will need to be patient. In dog training anger or impatience will not get you and your companion where you need to go. If you find yourself getting frustrated, take a deep breath and imagine where it is the training will take you if done correctly. Then begin the exercises again. Allow your dog to be successful, and remember you may need to redefine what that is. Do not try to add things too early. The dog should fully understand the beginning of every exercise before being pushed on to the three Ds.
If corrections are used, it is now that they start being used correctly, of course.
4) Maintenance is the most forgotten step. I can say this simply by "if you don't use it you loose it". Also if you become inconsistent, then you will start loosing it. The best way to maintain is make sure you use all commands in real life situations everyday with consistency. Most of us slip at this though. Keeping up a working schedule with your dog of a few minutes going over things on a consistent basis is also helpful. Remember, it's as easy to untrain your dog as it is to train your dog:) We all vary on where we need our dogs to be, so this is largely up to what the owner wants and needs in their life.
This article has been re-edited from an older one.
http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com
1) Demonstrate to the dog what you want him to do.You can do this by positioning or luring your dog into position. Dogs need to be shown what to do, because they don’t naturally know the things we take for granted that older dogs have already been taught. Obviously they don't understand our verbal cues, and need to be shown what they will correspond to in the future. In the Demonstration phase, the command is verbalized in conjunction with the luring or placing the dog into correct position.
2) Teach your dog what you want him/her to do (consistency and repetition). Let them know this is not a one-time command performance. There are rewards for the correct completion of a task Be consistent. Don’t tell your dog to “sit” unless you are ready to help him/her into a sit if they don’t quite understand it yet. This is still the teaching phase, and they need to know that this word isn’t one of the stream of sounds they hear from you each day. Don’t converse with your dog during training time They need to know that these command words have a meaning, and that is what we are teaching them. Other sounds in the day may not have a meaning, but our commands do.
Now once certain indicators are present, is the time you start to say the command BEFORE they go into position.
3) Learning: For dogs learning happens in that instant they analyze their choices. Those choices normally are non-compliance, flee, aggression, or comply. You want to give them a few seconds to contemplate their choice once you get beyond the teaching phase. Only compliance will allow them to be rewarded, and you want to do it as soon as the correct performance happens. As the exercises go on the three Ds will be marked as well (distance, duration, and distraction To end the session on a good note, you want to have the dog succeed at least four times in a row. If it takes way too many reps to get that four times in a row, you have most likely rushed the dog forward past their threshold. Now is the time to back up to where their performance was more reliable, and move in a slower fashion forward.
You will need to be patient. In dog training anger or impatience will not get you and your companion where you need to go. If you find yourself getting frustrated, take a deep breath and imagine where it is the training will take you if done correctly. Then begin the exercises again. Allow your dog to be successful, and remember you may need to redefine what that is. Do not try to add things too early. The dog should fully understand the beginning of every exercise before being pushed on to the three Ds.
If corrections are used, it is now that they start being used correctly, of course.
4) Maintenance is the most forgotten step. I can say this simply by "if you don't use it you loose it". Also if you become inconsistent, then you will start loosing it. The best way to maintain is make sure you use all commands in real life situations everyday with consistency. Most of us slip at this though. Keeping up a working schedule with your dog of a few minutes going over things on a consistent basis is also helpful. Remember, it's as easy to untrain your dog as it is to train your dog:) We all vary on where we need our dogs to be, so this is largely up to what the owner wants and needs in their life.
This article has been re-edited from an older one.
http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com
Friday, February 15, 2013
Small Electronics in Dog Training (Republished)
Small Electronics
By Robin Rubin, Owner and Training of Mannerly Mutts
http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
A controversial sector of Training equipment are the electronic training tools. These tools combined with all other tools of dog training (consistency, reward, correction, praise, motivation, ET AL) are what complete the entire training plan. There must be a training plan in order to train your dog to the level of acceptable obedience that I want from my human and canine client teams! Electronics are one option of tool, but not a requirement by any means.
A remote collar is one where the remote collar goes with you remotely and the transmitter and receiver go with you and your dog, respectively. You control the collar; a trigger of any sort other than your finger does not control the remote collar. Before we get into why anyone would ever consider using something electronic on his or her dog, let’s go briefly through the history of the remote collar. The technology of this collar has changed drastically in the 1950s.
Can you imagine, in the 1950s we did not have so much in electronic technology that we take for granted now! There were no cell phones. If there were computers at that time, they took up entire floors of large corporation, with huge spools of tape running all the time. Well, guess what, the remote electronic collar took the same journey in advancement that the rest of the electronic world took. When remote electronic collars were first produced, they were manufactured to be used as an aversive to stop the chasing of deer and the like. They would not have been able to be used gently as an obedience-training tool. First of all, you wouldn’t have had a choice in intensity to change it to. Later on in the early 90s or so, you could change the intensity, but only by changing the prongs on the collar. So you couldn’t change a remote collar’s intensity “on the fly”, you were stuck with the level that you attached to the collar. Now, you can have levels that go from 1 to 100, if you want that. Most humans and canines do not feel the lower levels. The technology of the remote electronic dog-training collar has greatly changed with time. It is now an effective and efficient tool that is used in obedience training, hunting, dog sports, and overall gift of fun and freedom for the dog. I will explain more the process for this later, for now; I just want to go over the equipment in summary.
REMOTE ELECTRONIC DOG TRAINING COLLARS (also known as shock collars, although this term is recognized more for the old fashioned ones, which are not sold anymore)
Some Pros: 1) Most dogs adapt well to the collar, especially when a foundation in training is put on first. 2) In my opinion, this is the perfect companion to positive training. I know, I hear the gasps from positive only trainers around the world too. However, I get many positively trained dogs that are just not reliable enough, and are able to use that training to make this a cue type of tool at the lowest levels for the dog. 3) Once trained, gets rid of the awkwardness of working with a long line. 4) Does not put a strain on the neck or back of the dog. 5) Improves timing of communication with the dog, thereby making training easier on most clients. 6) Rewards the dog quickly with increased freedom to do fun things with their owner. 7) Waterproof receiver (collar) on all quality models. Waterproof transmitters are available for additional cost from certain companies (Dogtra models for instance). 8) As long as you live outside the city, these can replace invisible fences as long as you supervise your dog when they are outside (which I always recommend no matter what). 9) Range of collar varies from ½ mile to 2 miles on the quality made remote collars.
Some Cons: 1) This is not the right collar for every dog, although it’s a small percentage that will not work on it, if the training is done correctly. 2) Like any equipment, in careless or abusive hands this collar could be abusive to the dog. 3) Like any training equipment, professional help is strongly suggested before venturing out and using it on it’s own. Why reinvent the wheel and stress out your dog? There are many trainers out there that can help you. 4) The good ones are from 180-240 for a one-dog model, and you want to get a good quality collar. So in other words, this is an expensive training collar. 5) Pressure sores can develop on the neck due to collar not being tight enough, collar going into water and not tightened or coat not dried, or movement of tight collar during play with other dogs. This is not often, and when it happens once it usually does not recur again.
Uses: 1) Once training is done correctly, this collar provides the safety of a leather leash without the leash attached to the collar. This makes for very enjoyable and safe off leash walking. 2) Many hunters do not want to loose their highly trained dogs. These collars let those dogs know when it’s time to look for their owners. 3) They can be used as an emergency measure to stop a dogfight, with a dog trained to know what the stim means.
Types/Brands: 1) Dogtra is made overseas (Korea, I think). They are the more affordable unit with 100 levels of stim (also known as shock). Dogtra can come with either a beeper or a pager (vibrate only) function. 2) Tri-Tronics is American made and the more expensive of the models. The newer models have 12 levels and the collars can come as one, and be built on to up to three at the owner’s convenience.
INVISIBLE FENCE TYPE SYSTEMS:
Some Pros: 1) When done properly, safe way to keep dogs in a boundary area. 2) Allows people with a view, to keep their view without putting up a fence. 3) Generally cheaper than wooden fence systems, and some chain link systems (depends on the square footage). 4) Unlike other non-electronic fencing systems, your dog can’t dig out of it or open the gate to get out. 5) Portable non-fixed (i.e. movable boundary systems) can be brought with you to places like campsites. 6) Nice for city situations where houses are close together, and there is a busy street nearby.
Some Cons: 1) The general public does not understand that this system requires a boundary-training program for the dog in order for it to be efficient and effective (and not abusive). 2) While this keeps your dog inside an area with the proper training, it does not keep loose dogs or other critters outside the area. 3) Dogs should be supervised at all times whether inside a wooden, chain link, or electronic fence for their own safety. 4) In addition to the boundary training, dogs should be trained so as not to alarm the general public walking by their house (as a trainer, I consider this a pro, but the public at large does not understand this). 5) If the electricity goes out, so does your fence (in one type of system, it will cause the collar to activate). However, if your dog has known the boundary for a significant period of time, they aren’t likely to test it. 6) The non-fixed fence system (it has movable boundaries) can cause some duress to your dog, as the boundary is movable even by accident. 7) It hurts, as it’s meant to completely dissuade your dog from crossing the line. However, if training is done properly, your dog may only try it once (after proper boundary training has been done) to find out. Flags and the audible warning also help with this.
Uses: 1) To contain dogs in a defined area outside. 2) Sometimes used to keep a dog outside of defined areas inside (i.e. the kitchen or dining room).
Types/Brands: 1) Fixed wire underground system. This is one in which a shallow trench is dug around your yard where the wire is laid. The collar going over or a specified distance near the wire first causes an audible warning, and then a shock warning. The key is here though that the signal from the wire turns on the collar, as opposed to the movable boundary collar. 2) Systems that have a movable boundary. These are hard if not impossible to set up with the flags, and often have a circular area. They also have warnings of an audible nature, before the dog walks into the shock. However, the signal sent out for the boundary, keeps the collar OFF. So that means, if the electricity shuts off, the collar is turned on to shock the dog. I am not sure, but I believe there is an emergency shut off in these collars.
BARK COLLARS:
I won’t go into these much here, as I have never used them. I use the command quiet (with a metal training or electronic, and I haven’t yet had a dog that was so resistant that I felt the need. That being said, some people summer or live in campgrounds where your dog barking is not going to make you a welcome guest. Many people use this type of collar for those packed in situations. However, I can’t go into much personal detail, never having used the equipment myself.
These types of electronic collars that work on a trigger (such as the vibration of the throat). Some dog figure out how to either move the boxes so they can bark or bark at the lowest level that doesn’t trigger it. I have heard from some people that these work for them.
VIBRATION ONLY REMOTE COLLARS:
I tried one made by Unleashed Technologies. I like the concept, and wish the collar was made in a quality way. However, this company did not take the advice of many dog trainers who were curious and ordered it. Some of the features are automatic, and can not be fully controlled by the handler if the dog is doing the correct thing or incorrect thing. The vibration is sketchy and inconsistent. I find the Dogtra receiver put on backwards is a fine tool right now, if you don't want any chance that the electronic stim button might be pressed. This is what I use on dogs that need only vibration as a remote signal.
Need your dog trained? Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com services page. Or contact me at 207-361-4395 in York Maine. Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.
Say no to HSUS, PETA, No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC) or Truly Dog Friendly Organization (TDF). Articles and information on why I do not support these organizations is on here and here.
By Robin Rubin, Owner and Training of Mannerly Mutts
http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
A controversial sector of Training equipment are the electronic training tools. These tools combined with all other tools of dog training (consistency, reward, correction, praise, motivation, ET AL) are what complete the entire training plan. There must be a training plan in order to train your dog to the level of acceptable obedience that I want from my human and canine client teams! Electronics are one option of tool, but not a requirement by any means.
A remote collar is one where the remote collar goes with you remotely and the transmitter and receiver go with you and your dog, respectively. You control the collar; a trigger of any sort other than your finger does not control the remote collar. Before we get into why anyone would ever consider using something electronic on his or her dog, let’s go briefly through the history of the remote collar. The technology of this collar has changed drastically in the 1950s.
Can you imagine, in the 1950s we did not have so much in electronic technology that we take for granted now! There were no cell phones. If there were computers at that time, they took up entire floors of large corporation, with huge spools of tape running all the time. Well, guess what, the remote electronic collar took the same journey in advancement that the rest of the electronic world took. When remote electronic collars were first produced, they were manufactured to be used as an aversive to stop the chasing of deer and the like. They would not have been able to be used gently as an obedience-training tool. First of all, you wouldn’t have had a choice in intensity to change it to. Later on in the early 90s or so, you could change the intensity, but only by changing the prongs on the collar. So you couldn’t change a remote collar’s intensity “on the fly”, you were stuck with the level that you attached to the collar. Now, you can have levels that go from 1 to 100, if you want that. Most humans and canines do not feel the lower levels. The technology of the remote electronic dog-training collar has greatly changed with time. It is now an effective and efficient tool that is used in obedience training, hunting, dog sports, and overall gift of fun and freedom for the dog. I will explain more the process for this later, for now; I just want to go over the equipment in summary.
REMOTE ELECTRONIC DOG TRAINING COLLARS (also known as shock collars, although this term is recognized more for the old fashioned ones, which are not sold anymore)
Some Pros: 1) Most dogs adapt well to the collar, especially when a foundation in training is put on first. 2) In my opinion, this is the perfect companion to positive training. I know, I hear the gasps from positive only trainers around the world too. However, I get many positively trained dogs that are just not reliable enough, and are able to use that training to make this a cue type of tool at the lowest levels for the dog. 3) Once trained, gets rid of the awkwardness of working with a long line. 4) Does not put a strain on the neck or back of the dog. 5) Improves timing of communication with the dog, thereby making training easier on most clients. 6) Rewards the dog quickly with increased freedom to do fun things with their owner. 7) Waterproof receiver (collar) on all quality models. Waterproof transmitters are available for additional cost from certain companies (Dogtra models for instance). 8) As long as you live outside the city, these can replace invisible fences as long as you supervise your dog when they are outside (which I always recommend no matter what). 9) Range of collar varies from ½ mile to 2 miles on the quality made remote collars.
Some Cons: 1) This is not the right collar for every dog, although it’s a small percentage that will not work on it, if the training is done correctly. 2) Like any equipment, in careless or abusive hands this collar could be abusive to the dog. 3) Like any training equipment, professional help is strongly suggested before venturing out and using it on it’s own. Why reinvent the wheel and stress out your dog? There are many trainers out there that can help you. 4) The good ones are from 180-240 for a one-dog model, and you want to get a good quality collar. So in other words, this is an expensive training collar. 5) Pressure sores can develop on the neck due to collar not being tight enough, collar going into water and not tightened or coat not dried, or movement of tight collar during play with other dogs. This is not often, and when it happens once it usually does not recur again.
Uses: 1) Once training is done correctly, this collar provides the safety of a leather leash without the leash attached to the collar. This makes for very enjoyable and safe off leash walking. 2) Many hunters do not want to loose their highly trained dogs. These collars let those dogs know when it’s time to look for their owners. 3) They can be used as an emergency measure to stop a dogfight, with a dog trained to know what the stim means.
Types/Brands: 1) Dogtra is made overseas (Korea, I think). They are the more affordable unit with 100 levels of stim (also known as shock). Dogtra can come with either a beeper or a pager (vibrate only) function. 2) Tri-Tronics is American made and the more expensive of the models. The newer models have 12 levels and the collars can come as one, and be built on to up to three at the owner’s convenience.
INVISIBLE FENCE TYPE SYSTEMS:
Some Pros: 1) When done properly, safe way to keep dogs in a boundary area. 2) Allows people with a view, to keep their view without putting up a fence. 3) Generally cheaper than wooden fence systems, and some chain link systems (depends on the square footage). 4) Unlike other non-electronic fencing systems, your dog can’t dig out of it or open the gate to get out. 5) Portable non-fixed (i.e. movable boundary systems) can be brought with you to places like campsites. 6) Nice for city situations where houses are close together, and there is a busy street nearby.
Some Cons: 1) The general public does not understand that this system requires a boundary-training program for the dog in order for it to be efficient and effective (and not abusive). 2) While this keeps your dog inside an area with the proper training, it does not keep loose dogs or other critters outside the area. 3) Dogs should be supervised at all times whether inside a wooden, chain link, or electronic fence for their own safety. 4) In addition to the boundary training, dogs should be trained so as not to alarm the general public walking by their house (as a trainer, I consider this a pro, but the public at large does not understand this). 5) If the electricity goes out, so does your fence (in one type of system, it will cause the collar to activate). However, if your dog has known the boundary for a significant period of time, they aren’t likely to test it. 6) The non-fixed fence system (it has movable boundaries) can cause some duress to your dog, as the boundary is movable even by accident. 7) It hurts, as it’s meant to completely dissuade your dog from crossing the line. However, if training is done properly, your dog may only try it once (after proper boundary training has been done) to find out. Flags and the audible warning also help with this.
Uses: 1) To contain dogs in a defined area outside. 2) Sometimes used to keep a dog outside of defined areas inside (i.e. the kitchen or dining room).
Types/Brands: 1) Fixed wire underground system. This is one in which a shallow trench is dug around your yard where the wire is laid. The collar going over or a specified distance near the wire first causes an audible warning, and then a shock warning. The key is here though that the signal from the wire turns on the collar, as opposed to the movable boundary collar. 2) Systems that have a movable boundary. These are hard if not impossible to set up with the flags, and often have a circular area. They also have warnings of an audible nature, before the dog walks into the shock. However, the signal sent out for the boundary, keeps the collar OFF. So that means, if the electricity shuts off, the collar is turned on to shock the dog. I am not sure, but I believe there is an emergency shut off in these collars.
BARK COLLARS:
I won’t go into these much here, as I have never used them. I use the command quiet (with a metal training or electronic, and I haven’t yet had a dog that was so resistant that I felt the need. That being said, some people summer or live in campgrounds where your dog barking is not going to make you a welcome guest. Many people use this type of collar for those packed in situations. However, I can’t go into much personal detail, never having used the equipment myself.
These types of electronic collars that work on a trigger (such as the vibration of the throat). Some dog figure out how to either move the boxes so they can bark or bark at the lowest level that doesn’t trigger it. I have heard from some people that these work for them.
VIBRATION ONLY REMOTE COLLARS:
I tried one made by Unleashed Technologies. I like the concept, and wish the collar was made in a quality way. However, this company did not take the advice of many dog trainers who were curious and ordered it. Some of the features are automatic, and can not be fully controlled by the handler if the dog is doing the correct thing or incorrect thing. The vibration is sketchy and inconsistent. I find the Dogtra receiver put on backwards is a fine tool right now, if you don't want any chance that the electronic stim button might be pressed. This is what I use on dogs that need only vibration as a remote signal.
Need your dog trained? Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com services page. Or contact me at 207-361-4395 in York Maine. Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.
Say no to HSUS, PETA, No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC) or Truly Dog Friendly Organization (TDF). Articles and information on why I do not support these organizations is on here and here.
Need your dog trained? Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com services page. Or contact me at 207-361-4395 in York Maine. Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.
Say no to HSUS, PETA, No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC) or Truly Dog Friendly Organization (TDF). Articles and information on why I do not support these organizations is on here and here.
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