Piscataqua Obedience Club Needs Safety Protocols for Events

What do you expect to see when you go to a canine obedience club demo?   My husband and I went to Piscataqua Obedience Club's dog days demo at Short Sands Beach last night.   My husband had never seen this event, and so he wanted to go.  I have seen this annual event many times.   Both of us also attend other such events AKC dog trials, Run Thrus, Matches, Pet Expos, Nose Work Events, and working dog seminars.

As we walked up to the area, the agility demo started.   Not long into it, one of the dogs jumped the fence and attacked another dog.   The handler did go get their dog and walked away from the couple and their dog who was just attacked.   No one came back to check on them.   My husband was the first to check in on the young visibly shaken and crying woman who was checking her dog out.

Meanwhile, the routines and event continued on just as if nothing had happened.   My husband went up to the young lady to find out if her and her dog was okay.   No one came up from Piscataqua Obedience Club to check in on the lady and her dog.

Suffice it to say, this was not what we were expecting to see that day.   Events such as this need to be run with safety for humans and dogs in attendance and on display in mind.   As a human, you are always responsible for your dog's actions, even when they go wrong.   As someone running an event, it is your duty to make sure everyone is and continues to remain safe.  Yes, stuff happens and things go wrong sometimes.  Doing the right thing goes a long way to diffusing the situation and making everyone feel safe and cared for.  

Unfortunately that was not what happened last night.   The couple had to go off and let the police know what happened.   They wanted to take care of their dog, and not have to walk over and expose their dog to another attack.   Plus it was clear that the club could have cared less.   They did make an announcement after several routines that these are "real working dogs, and sometimes these things happen."   Then they advertised their obedience courses.   No asking if everyone was okay or apologizing for something having gone very wrong.   If they were not aware there was an injury, this would have been a good time to find out and go over to the young lady if she raised her hand.

My husband finally went up to the club members when the couple and their dog finally walked away (shaken and very disturbed).  He was told they would look into it later.   To which my husband replied it was too late they had already left (we did not know they went to the police at this point).   Then the woman who was running the agility demo, Linda May McKinnon, asked for the victim's information from my husband, as if this was his responsibility to have collected this for her (BTW we have absolutely no affiliation with this group).  

Upon her defensive nature, my husband thought it was best to leave as we had notified the club that a person and that person's dog had been injured by one of their demoing dogs.   As we left, we saw a neighbor and were having a conversation with her about this and that.   A woman we do not know beelines for us and starts us with "I know you don't like our group, but just exactly what happened?" in a rude haughty voice (she has no idea what we think of the club or don't think of the club, we are not members).   She claimed they did come over, but we know they didn't as we were with the couple after it happened and then saw them when they left.   Additionally, the policeman that took their information confirmed that the couple had stated that no one from the club had come out to check on how they or their dog were.   I had enough with the members of this club at that point, and asked her to please leave our private conversation.

Here is what should have happened in an event like this:

1. First off, there should be a plan for unfortunate happenings.   Even if you think something is not going to happen, there are risks that an unforeseen event could occur.   When you plan for these and have protocols in place, then people are much safer that come to attend.
2. In my honest opinion, they should have immediately stopped the event, and inquired right there if everyone was okay.   Then they should have gone privately to anyone who indicated that they were not okay (so as not to expose them to an area near to where that dog was, who kept performing at the event).   There should have been an apology rather than a brush off as if this were an insignificant event.
3. Club members could have been strategically placed around the field so as to try and interrupt an incident like this before an attack occurred.
4. If any dog had any incidents prior to this of even just jumping out of the ring, they should not be off leash in a ring.
5. The club should have rabies certificate copies available for all dogs that are exposed to the public on that day.
6. There should be no defensive responses to an incident like this.   Only caring, supportive, preventative, and proactive responses should be made when something like this happens.
7. A first aid kit should be on the premises at the very least.
8. Someone who is in charge of the Obedience Club of some authority, experience, and knowledge should be present to handle this.
9. Their insurance information and copies of this information should be available for the purpose of sharing should an injury occur.

In my personal opinion having watched numerous of these demonstrations, this is not a group that takes dog training seriously as a way of keeping people and others safe.   The danger of groups like this, is that they don't even know they are not keeping others safe.   Add to that  the lack of a plan to handle an unsafe situation, or any remotely responsible reaction and action to such an event.

As I was leaving someone I am acquainted with said something like "see those Huskies (don't know if that is the proper breed identification) will turn on you".   Do we really need another breed for people to unfairly place blame on for an organization and handler's lack of responsibility and action?   By not being sure that you have strong obedience training in an off leash public event, you are putting others at risk.   There is no sure fire guarantee to keep everyone safe all the time, but there are actions and plans that can be designed to limit the possibility of injury and harm to others.

I have a feeling that the members of Piscataqua Obedience Club are still on the defensive.   I further have a feeling that I will be directly attacked by them, as I use tools and methods that many there do not agree with.   However, this issue and endangering the public can not go uncommented upon, especially when the group did not take immediate ownership and responsbility for it.   Had that happened, I would have nothing to talk about today.

I hope they come to their senses, and realize this is a serious infraction.   Also that if they are allowed to demo in public in the future, they must be better prepared, proactive, responsible, and own anything and  everything that happens there.

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Summer 2013 Area Events

New England Area Events

NOTE: We know some of the organizations and presenters below, but not all of them. We also may or not be fans of them. This is for informational purposes only for our followers and clients for events they may want to attend. We are not endorsing or referring these as far as quality or application to any purpose.

Seminars in the New England Area:

July 18th-21st 2013 American Canine Country in Amherst Mass has a Competition Canine Camp

July 20th 2013 Odor Theory for Nosework with with Michele Ellertson, CNWI at MasterPeace Dog Training in Franklin Mass call 508-553-9300

July 21st 2013 Structure in Action presented by Ms. Pat Hastings in Acton Mass FMI: DogStar Activity Center, info@dogstaractivitycenter.com

July 27, 2013 Drop on Recall! with Esther Zimmerman
MA Franklin
FMI: MasterPeace Dog Training Ctr, 508-553-9300

August 17-18, 2013 Agility Seminars with Amanda Shyne
MA Franklin
Three different seminars for three different levels: Novice/Open Standard Competition level (Saturday, 9 AM - 4 PM), Puppy Foundation Skills (Sunday, 9 AM - Noon) and "Not Ready for Prime Time" for those who are pre-competitors (Sunday, 1 - 4 PM). Working spots limited to 10 dogs per seminar; audit spots unlimited.
FMI: MasterPeace Dog Training Ctr, 508-553-9300


August 14-18, 2013 Instructor Training School: Course 1, The Foundation Unit
NH Manchester
All Dogs Academy/All Dogs Gym, info@alldogsgym.com

September 7 - 8, 2013 Tracking Clinic with AKC Tracking Judge Martha Campbell
MA Westborough
Limited to 15 Working teams; unlimited Auditors. Content: Getting you and your dog on track, Training techniques and track laying skills, Reading your dogs tracking signals, Types of scenting, glove indication & motivation, Working on 7 or more short tracks with your dog.
FMI: surefiredogs.com/event-details/162


October 5th 2013 MasterPeace Dog Training in Franklin Mass is sponsoring Pet CPR and First Aid Certification Course call 508-553-9300 to register.

June 8 2014 AKC Tracking Seminar
MA Acton
Sponsor: Tracking Club of Massachusetts. This is a one day seminar that will meet the AKC Tracking Judges continuing educational requirements.
FMI: Randie Meyer, laekenois@sprintmail.com

Upcoming Show N Gos (or run thrus):


(UKC & AKC) August 11th 2013 Marshland Obedience Club at Bo-Gee Agility in Raymond New Hampshire

Canine Good Citizen (CGC) and Therapy Dog (TDI) tests:

None known at this time.

Upcoming New England Area (ME, NH, MA) Obedience Trials:


(AKC) September 21st to 22nd 2013 Saccarappa Obedience Club at Riverton Community Center in Portland Maine


(UKC) September 28th and 29th 2013 Marshland Obedience Club at Finish Forward in Saco Maine

Scent Work Run Thrus:

None known at this time.



Other Events You CAN Bring Your Canine Companion To:


July 21st 2013 to support Doberman Rescue Unlimited sponsored at Pack of Paws Dog Training in Southbridge Mass (they do not seem to have a section on their website about this as yet)

September 8th 2013 Doberman Rescue Unlimited's Annual Reunion Picnic 4H Fairgrounds in Westford Mass

Other Events Do NOT Bring Your Canine (but benefit canines all the same):

None known at this time.


Mannerly Mutts Group Classes:

August 2013 TBA


DVDs and Educational Materials:

International Association of Canine Professionals Past Conference DVDs

Janice Gunn DVDs for Obedience Competition Training

Mike Ellis DVDs

Margot Woods DVDs


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Boone In The Mid Part of Teaching A Down

The above is the progression (4 to 6 days) after the first four days approximately of  "molding" a down (shown below):




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I Will Do Anything...

"I will do anything to stop this [barking, housebreaking, destructive behavior, aggression, fear, pulling, stealing, not coming,]." I hear it all the time on the other end of my phone, through e-mails and posted on boards. What is this anything they are talking about?

Well most of the time the owners think they are going onto the dark side, which includes the methods of flooding, kicking, hanging, yelling at, or hitting your dogs. However, I have personally never met a dog trainer or dog training school that uses these "methods" of dog training. I hear it in the trembling voice on the other end of the phone. Imagine their surprise when they hear or see my methods. That is, if they get that far in the first place.

In order to train at Mannerly Mutts there are some questions that need answering, some contracts that need signing, and I need to truly feel that the client will look out for the best interest of their dog. Otherwise, I am wasting both of our time. I do not waste my time with someone who is not that concerned about their dog. There are plenty of dog trainers around here that are not concerned whether a client does the work or not.   Mannerly Mutts is not one of them.

I see many of my clients and their dogs later on. One, because I have selected (yes, even in this economy) my clients carefully. Two, because they want to board their dogs in a house and yard that they are free to use and play in all day long. My clients do not want to NOR need to board their dogs in a kennel. They also know that most all of the dogs who come here have been trained using me, and are off lead trained. This provides for the safety and easy management of conflicts among dog personalities. So I better approve of these clients, as I am going to see them for not only their current dog's life, but most likely the dogs that come along after that in the future.

The "anything" that I want my clients to do, is to want to train, spend time with, and adequately care for their dog.   The "anything" that the political faction is talking about is either an urban myth or a method used by dog trainers mistaking themselves as professionals. They are not using anything that has been taught in the carefully constructed plans of  famous successful trainers. I study methods such as these everyday, and I don't use my body position or handling abilities to the best affect of the students of the students of the students of these masters yet. They looked so far ahead into what the dogs should and can be doing, that you are practicing for your Utility, as you are doing the Novice. That is, IF you are doing it the way it has been instructed. The main problem with the political faction is that the method has morphed more into "you do not need to train your dog to any standard whatsoever" in order to make your dog's life the most positive and fulfilling that it can be.

Here is the "anything" that students need to do. They need to look to the details of their handling (body position, holding the leash, movement of the shoulders, where the head is) of their dogs in order to excel. Now does everyone NEED to excel in the art of dog training? No they do not, but they do need to do it to the best of their ability. Why do they NEED to do that? To present to the dog the fairest and clearest picture of the foreign language now being introduced to them. I so wish that people would stop thinking of excuses of why they don't NEED to do very simple things, and instead think of what is BEST FOR THEIR DOG. That would make me very happy. Why spend all one's energy arguing about why they don't need to hold the leash handle the correct way? Why not just do it? Of course, I explain why and have a very detailed training manual that explains why. Why not just do it, and see what happens from there? Maybe the results that you could just could be because you did the training properly for the right consistency and clarity to your canine companion?

The people who have done the non or sub standard training are the ones that I hear grumblings from. "I went to a trainer but my dog keeps humping me". "I went to a trainer, and my dog is great unleash unless we pass by something living". "I went to a trainer, but my dog can't walk on surfaces like XYZ". "I went to a trainer, but whenever my dog hears a bell ring he freaks out." "I went to a dog trainer, but Fluffy can't handle it when a dog gets in her face." Dogs aren't perfect, and they are not robots. However, if you have gone through the trouble to get yourself a dog trainer, you should have someone that can coach you to make marked improvement in your dogs behavior. If you are not satisfied that has happened, by all means ask for your money back!! That is if you can also say that you did the homework as instructed. Also if you both agreed that this is something that would be worked on, AND you took the lessons numbers as advised by your trainer. If you didn't, then the only person to blame is yourself, as you will never know what your dog could have done under that instruction.

If I kidnapped you tomorrow, and flew you to an undisclosed foreign civilization how far would you get along in life (you can't get out) if you didn't have someone teach you the customs and language. How safe would you feel? Let's say a normal greeting is a football tackle. Would you feel a little confused, defensive, or fearful? What if someone stepped in front of the "greeter" stopped them, and started explaining things to you in a way you could understand. Maybe others that are not like you could understand, as well, that you are not accustomed to being greeted like that BUT in time you may learn. Maybe then you wouldn't be put to death for your misunderstanding of the strange customs:)

If you truly would do anything to change your relationship with your dog, give a little training of "that obedience stuff" a try. It's not as trivial or dismissive as others would have you think. It opens worlds and opportunities for your dog that you nor he/her ever thought were possible.

Do you think you fulfill the requirements to be a student or client of Mannerly Mutts Dog Training, York Maine's Dog Training Resource? Call Maine's Dog Trainer, Robin Rubin, at 207-361-4395. Or e-mail for New Hampshire Dog Training, Massachusetts Dog Training, or Maine Dog Training needs at mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com.

Westbrook Maine Show N Gos Perfect to Prepare for Spring and Summer Trials

Three legged "disabled" (NOT) Boris chasing his four legged
companion, Magoo.

Soon Spring and Summer will be here again, and it will be time for the usual AKC obedience trials in the New England area.   Show N Goes are an excellent resource for judging where your team is lacking BEFORE THE TRIALS.   Leon and I are planning to go to the January ShowN Goes in Westbrook Maine.  Boris may tag along on the following ones, although he is technically not qualified to trial (missing leg is considered lame in the AKC but not the UKC. (and whaddayaknow there is a 3/9/2012 Franklin Mass trial, that I just may need to try and attend.

So if you are planning on competing in obedience, interested in competing in obedience or thinking about competing in obedience, check these local things out.   I know I was inspired at the very first obedience competition that I went to.   I love the beauty of a team working together and sharing some amazing times:)

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Doberman Nationals 2011 Fitchburg Ma

Very last minute heard that the Doberman Nationals were going on in Fitchburg Ma from September 30th 2011 to October 8th 2011.   Because I will be purchasing a female Doberman in 2-3 years (and cause I love Dobermans and love to see a whole bunch of them in one area LOL), made a special effort to make sure we went.   I picked a day where some regional obedience events were being held, as I have an interest in obedience sports.

As it happened, I bumped into Terry Christie of Canine Magic.   We both apprenticed at Doberman Rescue many years back.  I met her dog, Cobey, when he was a puppy.   Recently, he needed to have a leg amputated, and was happy to hear there was some video of him on YouTube with updates.







So happy for Terry and Cobey! This is the other fun thing about going to dog events, volunteering ET, you get to meet great people and catch up with them. I had actually seen Terry at a previous DRU picnic, but had not put it together, as she was with a three legged dog (last time I saw Cobey he was four legged).

Please forgive me, as I did not think to take any pictures of the event. I left my pocketbook in the trunk of the car, which had my camera, and then just got to engaged to go and retrieve it later:( I really wish that I had taken some pictures.

I did watch the obedience events (Utility and Open were going on when we got there) for about a half an hour or so. Saw a dog named Isis doing some beautiful jumps. Also a very leggy blue male with natural ears doing his retrieves in our corner, doing his job even as he gave us a sideways glance and grin. Very nice work. Unfortunately, won't be able to show Boris of the three legs there (he needs to participate with the UKC ), BUT someday when my female princess comes we may do that trial. Years and years off...

The AKC hosts the trials at the Doberman Nationals, and so Boris would be considered "lame" there (Boris just has three legs, but he has no trouble walking, running OR jumping ).   I had a very nice time watching the exhibitors in Open and Utility.  It is a pretty quiet venue, although two rings were going side by side.  This was sectioned off from the conformations going on at the other side of the building.   Not a bad venue if one is looking for an indoor semi quiet trial.   Course this is different than the annual Fitchburg trials that are not specialty LOL (very busy and not at all quiet, and great if you are training for that--next one November 2011).   Saw my very first obedience dog trial there, and have been hooked and striving for the inspiring performance ever since!  (trainer was with a Boston Terrier, and I have no idea who she was, but she was great)

Sorry got off topic regarding the Doberman Nationals of 2011.  (Point was)  If I had a Doberman with four legs (physical legs of course) who was ready to trial, but perhaps not ready for the busier November trials, I would definitely sign up for these Doberman National trials in Fitchburg MA.   The Collie Club trials in Portland Maine are somewhat similar (and they have an all breed day) in the business factor.  I love those trials to for a dog just getting used to these venues.  I would recommend it.  If you get a chance to do this with your Doberman, I would go.   You will meet other enthusiastic Doberman owners, who love doing things with their dogs (course the day of the event they may be kinda tense LOL).

The vendors were great, and I only wish that I had known about it sooner.   I would have attended some seminars (though I probably would have to become a member, which I am doing now).   There were even online streamed seminars for those that could not attend on a certain day.

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The Very Beginning of The Place Command

One example of a finished place command:




The place command is usually taught around the same weeks that they stay commands are taught.   The difference from a stay command is this becomes a "send to" where you can send the dog to stay.  Once you get going you can use this for a crate command or a on top of command, unless you want separate verbal cues for this.  

Uses for a Place Command:  Sending your dog from company that may not wish to greet them at places like the dinner table and door without your escorting the dog to the desired location.   Behaviorally modify dog's behavior that may have a territorial aggressive bent.   Send away from an area that may hold danger like a broken glass surrounding the owner.   Interrupt an oncoming conflict between dogs by sending one or two away.   Send a fearful dog to a safe area.   Move a dog around a room while completing housework (keeps them safe from chemicals you may be using).

Goal of a Place Command:  To direct a dog to an area without needing to escort them to the area yourself.   To train a dog to recognize what and where a place is, and to both travel to and place them within those boundaries.

Equipment needed:   Need a leash and training collar in addition to the place itself.  Many trainers use a raised platform for a place (usually made with plywood, rug, and pvc piping) so that there is a definite raised boundary area to begin.   Also many trainers usually make a negative place (pvc boundary only) for ease of traveling with it.   However, a dog bed, mat or something with a definite boundary on which your dog can fit all their paws into laying down will do.

THE VERY BEGINNING OF THE PLACE:
STEP 1:   Position your place equipment in the middle of the room.
STEP 2:  Start heeling your dog around the room.
STEP 3:   Walk in a heel with your dog over the place area.   When all four paws are in the place, say "place".
STEP 4:   Repeat step three from every angle of the place mat or bed (remember dogs can totally interpret something as "just from this direction", so help them to learn to generalize the command by doing this).
STEP 5:  After several (25 or so) repeats of this, stop short of the mat, and see if the dog is ready to step on themselves.  

Video example of the beginning steps of teaching a place command:







To Be Continued...


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Updates Ending on August

Magoo: I am currently training him on the last official exercie, the finish. I am also enlongating the distance for come front. These two exercises in obedience, you need to be careful of. That is you most likely want to do them completely seperately. In addition, I have found that using the command heel for finish makes it less confusing for the both of us. I personally train finish one way or the other, and others will train both different kinds of finishes. I may change this up with Magoo, though I am undecided on that yet.

For polishing later on, I will want to have people stand in as posts for his figure eight, and strangers "examine" him during a stand. I have a feeling I will have plenty of volunteers for this, as we are going out in public now.

If you don't train the exercises seperately, it is more likely that the dog will go right to finish instead of stopping at front. I have learned this the hard way LOL, and needed to retrain both of my dogs to do them seperately.

Hoobie Doobie: Hoobie's days resemble the following lately, as far as his training schedule:

1. About one half to one hour of maintence work (depends on how the performance is) every day on the exercises he started on so he remains somewhat fresh for his owners. So these are the sits, downs, stays, "let's go", place, crate, and heeling type of exercises.
2. At least one half hour to an hour of grooming work, which incorporates the obedience exercises. Hoobie operates better when he knows what is coming up. So if I say "sit", and brush him---then he knows this is going to be over soon. Typically, I use sit for brushing, clipping the front nails (with paw command), shaving, toweling, and ear cleaning. I use down for brushing and toweling especially his front legs, which is the area he is the most sensitive of. I use stand for brushing, shaving, and clipping his back nails. We can get through a session of doing all of these now pretty much without a "blow". The front legs are still the thing that he comes close to tantrums on at this point, and I suspect this is where the injections when he was younger may have been given. This is totally done muzzled at this point, and should continue that way for a long while. Hoobie needed to be put to sleep for this process before.
3. At least one half hour to an hour of territorial and guarding behavior work a day. Hoobie guards areas like the back of cars or the inside of his crate (even from the outside when his food bowl or toy are in there. He became very good with me alone with him and the crate, and I have been working him up to other canines (as a prelude to humans) being around the areas that he is territorial or guarding over. He is also a resource guarder, and so working him to not demand the cheese whiz that comes with his meds, but instead learn to "leave it" and "take it" in various different scenarios. He used to have a very hard time when territorial met resource guarding (ie cheese whiz through crate bars which is the safest), but that all came together a little while ago when we were alone. Now I expect him to do it when others are around milling outside the crate. It's the easiest and safest way to do it. He's good outside the crate most times, but I feel it's very important to use the PVC pipe just in case.

So now with Hoobie's homecoming getting close, it's time to coach at least one owner how to keep this moving forward. The trust and relationship that I have built with Hoobie also needs to be built with his owners. As with most couples, it looks like one will be at the head of Hoobie's training. The same is true in my house, my husband enjoys the benefits of the training but does not so much participate. The one problematic thing in a behaviorally challenged dog like this, is that one way or another, whether the other spouse is home less or not, he needs to learn that the more infrequent home inhabitor is just as important as the primary home inhabitor.

There are at least two ways that I envision this going. And I will write about that tomorrow LOL. I need to remember especially about silence and space in this next posting for Hoobie. At home, I think he was getting a bit freaked on being examined so much, and the owners need to remember there is a time and place for that BUT ALSO dogs need to be left alone sometimes as well for their own mental well being.

Akuma: He is starting on his downs and comes. Akuma's owner's left hand has become partially disabled. It's surprisingly difficult to train a young puppy with only one maine hand, even if it is the one that is usually used in training. It makes the molding into a sit or down a bit harder, and I have tried to modify what I can for Akuma's owner. Leash position, holding, and body movement and attitude become even more important when you have less body parts to rely on!!

Akuma does not really have any behavioral issues, other than he loves people and would love to pull his owner over to all people that he sees. Very friendly and sweet dog.

Leon #2: Leon's owner was able to take her first real walk without me. Leon is a lovely boxer but not so lovely on the first meeting of other canines. He can be quite alarming really, and there is a protcol that must be done before he meets other dogs. However, after meeting other dogs, he is a good friend and playmate.

Right now we are concentrating just on the ability to walk past other dogs that are leashed and minding their own business. It takes practice on the owner's part to remember to be calm and in control so that anxiety does not travel down the leash to inadvertently alert that something is wrong. He is not ready to be walked into a pack of strange dogs.

Leon also is a lover of humans in any form. He has two little girls of his own that he loves.

Tucker: Is a new lab puppy client that will be starting next week! I have met him boarding with me at 10 weeks old, and he is quite a little puppy. Love him. He is probably four times the size now!!


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LEON THE BOXER

Leon started his lessons the other day. Still seems like a very nice, sweet, and possibly the mellowest boxer that I have ever met. He seems to love everybody and everything, which is a bit of a problem because he likes to pull his owner over to potential canine playmates!!

The first lesson (basically longe line and sit on the dog) done correctly should begin to cut down on this quite a bit, and then heeling around distractions will further it for Leon. He is not adverse to doing what you want him to do:) He just needs to be taught exactly what that is.

Every new client has access to a blog with the training plans. Also, they can feel free to call me should they have any problems during the week. Each session when coaching a client takes an hour or more. If I feel a client needs additional help during the session, I don't charge them more for the additional time.

It's hard to imagine that someone left him in a shelter, but it seems that it may have been very lucky on Leon's part. No one was home with him very much according to the shelter, and so he took care of his needs for activity and elimination himself. Then a family found him, and immediately looked after his needs including training. It is such a pleasure when this happens!! Hopefully the transition into his new family keeps going smoothly.

And of course, I freaking forgot to take a picture of him, yet again, while I was enjoying him. Sigh next time, and if it should not be raining out, perhaps a video.


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Tier Of Goals When Training The Behaviorally Challenged

Going to have to use Hoobie again, as he is my only behaviorally challenged training client at the moment LOL (thank goodness). So when a client like Hoobie comes in, the first thing I do is envision for that dog, what I want for him if he was my own dog. The next thing that comes into mind is the laundry list of things I ideally want to accomplish before the owners bring him home. Here is an example of such a list that comes to mind, and sometimes changes as I know the dog. For Hoobie, here is my list of priorities that mold the way I train the behavior modification part, and also influence my training of obedience exercises (like having a pet part of every command):


TIER OF GOALS FOR HOOBIE:

PRIORITY ONE-SAFETY FOR OWNERS (WEEKS ONE TO TWO VERY MUCH SO-AND ONGOING):

• Crate training in and out of crate. (includes muzzle off which is an indicator for Hoobie that he is going into the crate, and leash off which can also be an indicator)
  
• Acceptance of muzzle on and off when needed. It's so far really been muzzle off, as that was an indicator that he's going into the crate, when the muzzle is being used.


• Acceptance of training collar on and off.


• Later came the PVC pipe idea to get Hoobie off the muzzle with resource guarding issues, yet provide an in between place for him that keeps me safe while he aggresses, and does not make it necessary to give a strong correction. (or get a strong correction)


• Later came the e-collar to cut down on the extreme reactions of Hoobie to in the crate in duration, and also so hands do not become the focal point of being made to do something. He does very well on the e-collar on low levels.

• Not allowed to hump other dogs when out with them. Also, I don't mind that he investigates dogs, er, private regions. However, allowing him to prolong this beyond what is necessary usually leads to humping.

• Do NOT have the mindset to make excuses for bad behavior of Hoobie. Assuming he is not having a convulsion of some sort, and has not been hit by a car, tired is no longer an excuse that Hoobie just misbehaved. We can acknowledge that he is not ready yet for something, but it doesn't excuse it. There is a difference, and I need for the owners to have the mindset that bad behavior is not an excuse for Hoobie. The allowance for this, and the avoiding of things that might upset Hoobie are the reasons for his increased aggression. Now that he is going in the right direction, we need Hoobie to be firmly pushed in the correct direction and not backslide.

• Also later, the car goes to good places, not just the vet!!

PRIORITY TWO-LEADERSHIP (HEAVY WEEK ONE AND ONGOING):

• Nothing in life is free. Using what he knows and what he is learning to work for what he wants.

• Longe line, learn to follow and pay attention to leader without needing to be tugged or pulled along.

• Heeling, learn to follow and pay attention to leader in an exacting position.

• Auto sit, learn to pay attention to leader and stop when they stop (and in a consistent position).

• Recognizing the signs of when Hoobie is leading the owner/handler.

• How to recognize and address challenges from Hoobie.

• Resource guarding issues become part of leadership, but are addressed starting week 5, 6, 7 and most likely 8.

• Structure and discipline.
  

PRIORITY 3-TOUCH AND HANDS (THIS IS THIRD, BECAUSE WITHOUT SAFETY AND LEADERSHIP THERE WILL BE NO BEING ABLE TO TEACH HOOBIE THIS) AND OWNER/HANDLER TRUST:

• Petting feels good. Also verifying the fact that Hoobie does not appear to be aggressing because he's in pain when he's petted.


• Hands do good things. Hands open doors, hands get food, hands treat (when safe), allowing hands near means we go outside.


• Obedience training with Koehler molding methods. Very touch based training where molding Hoobie with hands allows him to realize that no hurt comes from this.


• Hands touch when he's feeling good outside, enjoying freedom, and relaxing with friends.


• When Hoobie approaches, instead of allowing him to demand attention, Hoobie sits and hands touch as he wanted on handler's terms not his.


• We started at points of his body that he seemed to enjoy, and then we spread out.


• Because he had learned to loathe touch, we needed to touch him first so that he learned it wasn't that bad in an obedience training way. Then, we allow him to indicate when he doesn't want it by walking away, and watching what the tail does. The tolerance of touch has been increasing in time and demand:) Otherwise, I would have the wait until he approached method. This is being done with strangers. However stranger interactions are very last on the priority list!

• Structure, Discipline, Clarity, and Consistency.

PRIORITY 4-RESOURCE GUARDING ISSUES (VERY BEGINNING STAGES OF THIS RIGHT NOW-DON'T KNOW HOW FAR WE WILL GET):

• This has been part of the crate training as well. Hoobie is not allowed to lunge, growl, bark, at anyone or thing passing by his crate or towards his crate.

• Hand feeding as the beginning concept of "everything is mine not yours". However, I will gladly share with you.

• Part of giving the medicine with the popsicle stick in the crate (as opposed to your fingers which would be a bit mistake right now) is for him to neither guard the popsicle stick (or try and grab it from you) or his space inside the crate. This is why children and adults who won't listen should not be allowed near the crate, and must be supervised to insure that they don't visit the doggie.
• In obedience, this has been done by walking by close to Hoobie, and expecting that he won't react while in a down or sit stay. In other words, Hoobie has believed in the past he owns all the space around him to:) Or guards it from his people. Also let's go removes him from his position if he has just woken up from sleep or looks a bit worried about "his space" (NOT).

• NO ON THE FURNITURE. AND THE TIMES I HAVE FOUND HIM ON THE GUEST BED, OFF THE FURNITURE IMMEDIATELY.

• NO IN THE FRONT SEAT OF THE CAR, AND THE BACK IS MINE TOO. MORE OF A TRAINING EXERCISE, AS THE OWNERS HAD A METAL SEPERATOR INSTALLED IN THEIR VEHICLE. THOUGH I WOULD LOVE FOR THE NOT TO AVOID THIS IN THE FUTURE, SO THAT HOOBIE CAN LEARN.

PRIORITY 5-GREETING KNOWN PEOPLE AND TRUSTING KNOWN PEOPLE (WILL BE IN THE VERY BEGINNING STAGES WHEN OWNERS ARRIVE BUT HAVE STARTED WITH MY HUSBAND):

PRIORITY 6-GREETING UNKNOWN PEOPLE AND TRUSTING THE HANDLERS IN GREETING AND BEING AROUND UNKNOWN PEOPLE (WILL GET STARTED ON THIS, BUT DON'T KNOW HOW FAR WE WILL GET) :

***Can I say that greeting children has not made the list. This dog is not safe around children. Children will not understand the ramifications in the near future of how to interact with a dog like this. Hoobie must be muzzled or in a crate out of the site and thought of children when they are around. And even muzzled, must be strictly supervised AND must have high quality muzzle that he can't get off or pinch through!!

Realize that each large and lofty goal has many steps and behavioral challenges in it. I mean for Hoobie it's as tiny as allowing the door clips on the crate to be touched without growling. That's how intricate the beginning steps have been with a normal stable dog that doesn't even become an issue.

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Magoo Learning Heel and Stand Ellis Park June 2nd

NOTE: SINCE MAGOO WILL BE SHOWING IN CONFORMATION, WE ARE NOT DOING AN AUTOSIT RIGHT NOW.

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Number One Training Request-Dog Walking Nicely

As a trainer, the one training request I receive most frequently is "I just want my dog to walk nicely on leash"!!! It's also the easiest thing to teach your dog to do well. A command or instruction is not taught well unless it is finished to the point where your dog can deal with the distracting situations of everyday life. This includes:

• Cars passing by
• Neighborhood cars
• Small children screaming in the neighborhood
• Dogs being walked by
• Off leash dogs perhaps rushing at you and your dog in play or with other intentions. (you would rather not be worrying about what your dog is doing in these situations. It's better to have your dog trust your judgement and caregiving).
• Squirell running up a tree in front of you
• Bikers, Skateboarders, Joggers,

There are two directions that I give my dog for walking nicely on (and off) leash. There is "let's go" which means do not pull on the lead (or it means comes towards me if they are off lead). Then there is the command that most owners think is "too fancy" or an impossibility, which is the heel.

The heel is no harder to teach than walking nicely (ie not pulling) on a "let's go" command. The "let's go" command is used for informal walks where you don't mind that your dog sniffs the dandelions or marks the tree. You only mind that the dog does not put pressure on the leash. The heel is a position that the dog must take. This command is great for getting a dog to focus on what they are doing (as opposed to the dog walking directly towards you for instance) or for when you are holding or handling something else, and really don't want to trip over your dog. Heel is also great for city type situations so they don't wrap their leash around everything and everybody.

Below is a video of me and dog/human reactive American Pit Bull Terrier, Gigi, taking our first city walk in the town of Portsmouth NH. She walked by two dogs and did amazingly well

Not the best heel I have ever seen, but Gigi was just beginning to learn about distractions (especially ones that she wanted to attack) vs walking well on leash and trusting me to keep us safe.

This video of Jackie and I doing a run thru, is a better example of what a more fully trained heel (complete with auto sit) should look like.

http://video.google.com/videosearch?hl=en&q=+%22Jackie+Run+Thru%22&emb=on##

Jackie was a dog that I despaired of ever being in public off leash, never mind competing off leash! He earned his Companion Dog last 5/2008 (which means he had to have an acceptable heel, among other things, both on and off lead), and is now being readied for open competition. Whether this is in a ring or on the street, a well trained heel should look essentially the same. You may need to make allowances for an unexpected elephant in the middle of the road LOL, but the dog should be prepared and trained for any expected distractions.

The first week of training should be all about space and staying in the owners space. This is done with posted on this blog called "sit on the dog".

The second week begins with a dog walking with the owner between two points on longe line from days 1-3. I go into this in more detail in my training manual, but simply all the owner needs to worry about is walking between the two points without speaking to or paying much attention to the dog. I change this up a bit for puppies and some other individual needs. Until I mention it, this is all in very mildly distracting venues.

The second week days 4-6, you have notated some things that distracted your dog in your immediate area. You probably know of some without even observing your dog during this process (open doors, open gate, end of driveway, cat, kids, neighbors, food). Now it's time to set your dog up with these distractions, but the owner moves in the opposite direction every time the dog is not paying attention. This sets the dog up for the need to learn to pay attention to you, because "Dog Knows" where you might go next. Your dog needs to keep an eye on you now, so he doesn't loose you .

The whole point of this is you are getting your dog to think this is THEIR great idea. Staying near you is the only way to keep tabs on you.

The second week on day 7, you begin preparing for heel work but still on the longe line (15-20 feet of line that you have kept completely slack this whole time). This means that you move in the opposite direction as soon as the dog starts to get anywhere near five feet away from you. At this point, and for most dogs, when they see you move they will go towards you immediately. Most dogs do not get to the end of the line at this point.

Exercises like this can be modified in a bunch of different ways to the needs of your client. My mastiff client, Baby Bella, has a spidery toy that is dangled to have her dash up. Treats work as well. For the right temperament of dogs, a knowledgeable and well trained correction helps them right along. For corrections, the point is that it needs to be done well, it's not appropriate to nag or choke on the dogs neck.

The next week, you are working on the heel. If you are going to be sloppy on easy things like position and leash handling, then this will be a waste of time for you. You also want a trainer that knows the importance of these things. It is not hard at all to do this correctly, and it confuses me every time why someone would not train a heel in the correct manner, whether for competition or a walk down the street. It's just not that difficult, especially if you are a knowledgeable trainer.

These directions take up pages and pages with good information, so I won't print them here. Plus, if you don't know what you are doing, it's best to have a knowledgeable trainer guide you through the process. At some point, you are rotating locations that you are practicing your exercises which have built a language one word at a time for your dog. I pick four different outdoor areas and two different indoor areas that I do my training. You are working your dog about an hour a day 6-7 days a week while you are doing this. Someone who will be successful will do this cheerfully, patiently, consistently, and enjoy the process.

In the end, the most awesome gift and reward that you will give your dog is increased time with you and increased freedom. No treat or toy in the world trumps that:)

You will notice in my pictures AND video that the leash is completely loose. This is how it should looke with a dog in the midst of training or a trained dog. Any tightness of the leash is manipulating an untrained dog.

Regarding equipment, I personally do not like head halties or harnesses that cinch under the arm pits, as the correction never stops even if the dog is walking correctly. These tend to rub sensitive dog's skin raw and make it uncomfortable to walk!! Not my personal goal for my or my client's dogs.

Regarding classes, I prefer to offer private classes first, and only group classes to my students who have done the work. The reason? Well an instructor is not going to know all dogs in their class really well when they meet them for the first time, which could lead to some unexpected and not safe situations. Beyond that though, the human and canine do not get the one on one attention that they deserve to work with this issue. You are starting with maximum distraction which makes it hard for everyone to learn.

This particular posting was inspired by a question on mainpets.mainetoday.com.

Me and Leon Share a Workout

It's sometimes hard to figure out how to get exercise in on cold slippery winter days without hurting yourself or your dog. I have many inside tricks and activities that I do.

Today was game and freestyle dance day. First, in order to give myself the best work out, here are the rules of Tug and Run:

1) I start out with tug toy. I run until Leon gets tug toy.

2) When Leon has tug toy, I can't cheat and give him any commands like out or leave it. I must by wits and strategy pursue him for the tug toy. This sort of game should be kept to those dogs that have been brought up to respect their owner and know how to play with them.

3) Once I get the tug toy, two things can happen. One, he could still have it in his mouth, at which point we commence with Leon's favorite game of tug. It's a great triceps and biceps work out:) Or Two, I get the tug toy without Leon attached to it.

4) If we are playing tug, I seek to win but can not (only if Leon's personality were to suddenly change where he got possessive of the toy, which has never happened since his birth to 4 1/2 years) tell him to leave it or out (though if I get a good enough work out in, it's sometimes tempting if I am getting tired). I can trick him by calling a name, or pretending to get tired, or waiting for him to try and adjust his grip and take advantage of that.

5) If I have the toy with no Leon by either winning tug or getting it that way in the first place, then he gets it on completion of something new that we are training on. I might also give it for great execution of something that I asked for and he already knows.

We do this for about a half hour with freestyle moves, a little obedience, and tricks. At the end, we have two tired and hot beings!! Then Leon is allowed to do what he will with the toy as he curls up on the couch or floor for some quiet time.

We also have another game like this that involves a ball, and I try and bounce it the whole time and play keep away. Rules are similar to the Tug and Run game.

Last night, I played hide and seek with both Jack and Leon. Leon will search until he finds me. Jack might give it up if he can scour the kitchen floors instead!

Things that Put Me in A Good Mood

Reason number one, Gigi and Paddington went to Paddinton's home and spent the night together. Okay, get your head out of the gutter, they are both spayed and neutered, so it's purely a platonic friendship. I had high hopes that the results would be the same once they both got to their respective homes, and Gigi true to her form here has accepted Paddington as her family friend. Very good news that will help her in the future, and will help her owners as well.

Jack does a roll on a hard surface. We have been training on soft surfaces, and this is his first attempt on a hard wood floor. Then on to sand, snow, and road!!




Reason number two has to do with my own behaviorally challenged dog, Jackie. Day three of increased freedom and no attempts on Leon's person, even with some things he has been obsessing around, I am not saying there haven't been one or two looks, I am saying we ended week 4 without the attempts to be bad that happened previously. This does not mean I can prop my feet up and breath a sigh of relief, and let Jack up to his own devices. This does tell me the improvement is ongoing, and I most likely won't need to live with two seperated dogs. Jack makes me work for it though, he does.

End of yesterday, day four, Jack was allowed a stuffy on his dog bed in the bedroom. When Leon returned, Jack started the growling with the I am about to lunge pose. This was stopped much eaiser than it had been in the past, with Jack dropping into his down on command immediately, even though the "anger sequence" had gone into "launch mode". More importantly, Jack settled right after that and did not continue with the looks or guarding. At this point, he is still dragging a six foot lead, and at any point where there is potential, I am at the other end of that loose six foot lead. Additionally, playing and wandering times are strictly supervised. That means I am actively watching them and involved, when Jack is allowed any freedom to roam or go up to Leon.

Also today, a terrier was loose in the neighborhood and running towards us, and Jack did not challenge my leadership by trying to take care of matters himself. I am not saying he was not thinking about it, but for the third time in the last two weeks when a potential problem situation occurred, he did recognize that I was taking care of it. It's so much easier to do that, when you don't have to worry about what your own dog is attempting to do!!! There really needs to be a partnership developed to do this with certain dogs like Jackie. Jack looked a bit tense, but he didn't bark and remained in his heel position. I did my job, and kept the offending beasty away from us. Leon and Manny were with us, and so this remained a time where Jack's protective instincts would kick in.

I am happy with the potential that is being demonstrated in Jack's behavioral modification. It could not be done without the use of obedience and the additional advanced retrieving and fetching skills that both boys have learned. It has been equally important that Leon listen to commands and directions as well in order to have planted situations that I can train Jack around.

One incident happened on January 18th, where I did not catch the fact that Jack was guarding the couch from Leon. Unfortunately Jack did connect with his teeth briefly. The leash should have been in my hand so I could have diffused the situation immediately. So we took a training step backwards that day. Being that this is at least a three month training process, that happened less than a third way through our training plan, so I wasn't surprised that Jack tried something. He had made me a bit complacent by being a good boy up until that point. Much of the plan is to test or proof Jack's responses when it "seems" like he has the freedom to make the choice, but in fact he does not.

Here is the summary of his training plan:

• First, the rules. (scroll to the middle of the post to see what the rules were on week 1) Some have been updated. Jack does not need to sleep in a crate outside the bedroom anymore, but is allowed on his dog bed in the bedroom. He is exhibitting enough self control to not be muzzled for two weeks now.




• Relaxation and molding exercises. Teaching Jack to release the tension in his muscles when I touch him. Also using this exercise for posing as well, so I can manipulate his limbs et, and have him begin to instantly relax as I do this. Massage and petting are helping this along as well. This has to do with yielding (ie owner says something or needs to physically manipulate the dog, dog allows this willingly and is used to it).




• Relation to relaxation and molding, really firming up left turns for attention and movement.




• I have been teaching the commands of roll over and over even in distracting areas where other dogs are or on different surfaces.




• Open exercises of fetching and jump around dogs and "wanted items" that Jack normally obsesses over.




• Leon doing his play retrieve taking items that are placed around Jackie. Jackie does not have a muzzle on, but he is mostly tethered or back tied during this exercise. He has never attempted to get up, but this is a safety measure during the early part of the training.




• Leon and Jack have at least a half hour a day where they are trained on obedience, freestyle, tricks, or retrieve together. They are actually a great team when they are working.




• Leon and Jack have at least one walk where they are coupled together during the day and must heel with me.




• Jack has one heel or loose leash walk alone with me a day. Preferrable to areas where there are dogs out. He is expected not to reacte if another dog comes running up to us.




• Jack and Leon are allowed to play with their toys in close proximity as long as Jack does not reacte to Leon. If only Leon has a toy, and Jack is not interested in his, Jack is not allowed to obsess or try and guard that toy, and certaintly not reacte to Leon.




• Jack is doing fetch and retrieve with and around things that he becomes obsessed about.




• Jack trained not to follow Leon's every move or think he can dictate what Leon does. Obedience combined with commands such as look, leave it, and out have been combined to achieve this.

Every week a little more freedom and a little more free time is given to Jack. He is praised and rewarded in times where he would have reacted before, but now chooses not to. Times where he is relaxed and is not obsessive are times where he gets some special atttention or alone time later. At any time there is a set back, those freedoms are reduced again or taken away for a time.

Here are some before and after shots of body language (note Jack is muzzled in the before):

Gradually over time, it is my hope, that as the freedoms increase the control that Jack has been exhibiting over his "over reactions" will take hold and become part of his personal behavior under his own steam.

So far so good. Some really nice progress and self control has become apparent. Many times with a dog like this, the misunderstanding that their previous reactions "weren't that bad" or "didn't get to the point of drawing blood" can cause some of us to not take the action that we should have (or were unable to) sooner. I take heart in the fact the list with Jack was so long two years ago, that I thought walking this dog on lead would be a huge feat (even though I am quite used to doing this with many and plentiful dogs). I never dreamed that we would be able to accomplish a Companion Dog title, as we did last year. This required Jack to heel off leash while many people and other dogs looked on. Now the list has become smaller 1) finally fully address the resource guarding AND 2) make it crystal clear that Leon is not an appropriate scapegoat or punching bag for Jack.

As for doing the open exercises, Jack is bright and smart enough to get that easily. Put all of that together, and Jack will be a dog will A LOT of work into him but truly exceptional. This is so much easier with a dog that is not "behaviorally challenged". On the other hand, the work that Jack and I have done together have not only strengthened an already strong bond, BUT will benefit "behaviorally challenged" students so much in the future.

His Name is Reo

Nope this is not a new puppy that I have adopted LOL. This our newest client at a little over five months old. His name is Reo!! His brave owner is starting training during our Maine winters!!

Planning My Day

I am training three dogs simultaneously for competition next year. Two are being trained for Open, and One is being trained for Novice (but he is a Thai Ridgeback, so he's a bit difficult in the trust/stranger department). So it's a lot of time and energy right now.

The days tend to fly by with either only one dog being trained, or a crucial thing being forgotten (like Jack's last five fetch reps yesterday). I don't want to be scrambling in February to be ready, and as it is, it looks like it might be wise to delay it to March. However, if I press my nose to the grindstone right now, I may be able to pull it off. There is no room for delay. So to remind myself, what I actually need to do is have a timeline and daily plan not just for training but for my whole day.

So today is Friday, and that means no daycare, but I have two client's dogs to take care of around the 12-2 Pm area. I figure that I will require at least a half hour per dog of training time (followed by 20 minutes of quiet time with me. Additionally, I want to practice stays with all three of them today, and this should be, at least, an every other day kind of a thing. Both Jack and Bri need 10 reps (split into two sessions of 5) of fetch work. Bri is on week 1, and Jack is on week 3. Devon needs to be reminded of all the basics again, so I am basically going on the 8 week Koehler plan for this. Stand for EXAM will be the hardest thing to achieve with him. Next will be stays with possibly moving judges. So a lot of public work needs to be done with Devon, but not right away and only until he is performing the basics reliably in non-distracting less stranger filled environments.

This is why poor Bri always gets the short end of the training stick, as she is more reliable than either Jack or Devon in the personality and stable tempermented department!! The worst that she will do is lag during the heel or sink into a down from a sit or walk directly to me out of a stay. The more reason why would should do well as a team and score high though. So I am going to try and not short end Bri for this next Spring of 2009.

So it's about 12 PM now. That means I am leaving soon to walk my little charge, Manny. I can bring my dogs, Leon and Jack, with me so they get their exercise as well. If I really wanted to push it, I could walk all of them over to Roxy and Harley's house, and have them all out on the beach with me. It's pretty exhausting to have five off leash dogs at the beach with you. So if it's low tide, that's probably what I will do, and I will get my and my dog's exercise out of the way at the same time (I have been jogging sporadically on my walks while it's not icy). So that, and going to the post office will probably bring me to 2 pm.

I could put Jack up then for his two hour pre training nap. Bri and Devon are already situated as such in their house already. At 4 pm, I could start the training sessions. I could even take Bri and Devon out for their own play sessions, work Jack first, and by the time I went and got them, then their two hours would be up.

So Jack and Bri, I need two separate sessions for retrieves. It is also reliant upon getting a Novice heeling exercise going perfectly before I can start the retrieve work. That might mean Bri doesn't start her retrieve work today, but instead gets a little heeling 101 refresher. We will see how it goes. Jack for sure needs a 4 pm work up with retrieve first five following. The first session should end around five thirty or a little thereafter for all three dogs to be worked separately. Then later in the evening, like at around 7 pm, perhaps another retrieve refresher.

So Fridays should be somewhat easy, especially if I make it a point to get going earlier in the morning .

The tricky thing is going to be the other days, and picking my two indoor and four outdoor locations to do this, and then changing the locations for increasing the distractions. The better you can do this, the better trained your dog will be.

Past Present and Future First Dogs

I have been getting requests from professionals in different fields of canine service and retail to join groups pleading with the Obamas to get a rescue dog/puppy. I have been reading blogs or messages on group boards of people who want to be the trainer to the presidents new dog. It's a subject that has the dog world's knickers in a twist. I bet President Elect Obama wishes he had kept the puppy promise to himself already.

As far as the dog or puppy that they adopt, I only hope they choose one that is right for them and their family. This is a long term commitment, and not something to be taken lightly. Everyone needs to be ready to pitch in and be a part of that dog's life. I care mostly that this dog won't end up in rescue (imagine the scandal there) or given to a housekeeper or.... The family shouldn't be pressured into where to get the dog, but only to pick the correct dog for their situation.

I find the rescue situation especially alarming, since some misguided advice is to be sure it's a "pit mix" (note mix by the way) so people can know they can be nice dogs. Of course they are nice dogs!!! However, they need a bit of discipline and training. The wave of keep everything fun for the owner, rather than meet a dog's long term training needs, is what keeps Breed Specific Legislation (BSL) alive and well. Imagine a Pit mix bites the next reporter. The following blog, http://celiasue.wordpress.com/, that I enjoy for dog-friendly travel and marketing advice wants the family to pick a Dalmatian/Pit mix. Not that I am against that, but if that was the breed, I would say find a very qualified trainer who can prepare the pup for public life. Neither is considered a bomb proof personality in a dog. Neither breed is particularly hypoallergenic either, as the President Elect needs.

Next high profile behaviorists or dog trainers want to be the trainer to the President Elect's dog. I can't even imagine the amount of offers that he has most likely received. For a job like this, the trainer (note I didn't say behaviorist) needs to be well versed in obedience and how the ability to perform commands reliably leads to a confident, well adjusted dog, that will be in the public eye. Some of behaviorist Ian Dunbar's fans are calling for his submission to a possible line up of dog trainers. By the posting of his experience in obedience on his blog, http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/major-issue, and the belief that K9 Games will replace this valuable skill in the future, making obedience in either training or competition obsolete, I feel he is quite unqualified for such a position.

It's not that I don't like K9 games idea. I do, in fact it's being used in classes by accomplished trainers, such as Margot Wood, in their weekly group classes. Games of baseball, musical chairs, tic tac toe, are all used as a fun and competitive way to improve their skills in real life.

K9 games seems to focus more on a solitary dog performing in front of a crowd, which has it's place too. But obedience really does prepare, if the obedience trainer wants to prepare, for real life situations when you are very close to strange dogs and strange people for long periods of time.

The children nor President need to compete in obedience, it's important that their trainer is qualified to know what is involved in a public, strange, and busy environment for the dog and from the dog's perspective. JMO Because most behaviorists don't give any credence to the sport of obedience that has been around as the standard for awhile, or quit after qualifying with a CD on their own dog (ie not competing various breeds, and various dogs not owned by them OR training other people to handle their own dogs), they have no idea the beneficial properties that this has to the dog. Therefore, they can not properly instruct a client to more than be sure the human has fun, feed the dog, medicate them, or purely management techniques.

On a less serious and fun note, Time has a pictorial of different first dogs!!

http://www.time.com/time/photogallery/0,29307,1830236_1746240,00.html

Part of Yesterdays Homework

This is Jack's repetitions of Week 1 Day 1 using The Koehler Method of Open Obedience Book as my method of choice for a working retrieve. Check out the bruise on my chin, this is what happens when you don't get dinner on the table top on time (kidding, my husband does all the cooking). Actually this is what happens when you trip carrying your elderly dog down the stairs, and fall on the concrete mudroom floor with no other thought than avoiding your dog hitting it instead. Let's just say that my chin took the brunt of the force, and I am lucky that I have all my teeth and not shattered chin.

It is not only Jack's homework here, but I am trying to create my presentation skills, which in the future will take out the "ums" and my fashion sense will improve once I am ready to commit anything to a permanent sort of tape for my clients. You will notice also that Jack is also a little freaked out by the tripod LOL, and that I can not count when forced to concentrate on the fact that I am being videod.

Regarding Jack's mild freaked out state. I am not going to highlight this for him, as something he should be concerned about. He is not in an overloaded state, as he is used to the fact that sometimes we need to work where there is something that he is not familiar with. He also knows that I am not going to make a big deal that he is scared, and therefore reinforce that state of being. I will go into my treat methology at another time, and my protocol for when I use treats and when I do not. Hopefully, I will remember to talk about fear, stress, and the use of treats involved. For now though, this is a state of being that will disappear as he gets used to the scary three legged thing now on the porch. If I highlight it, I will freeze him there.

It Should Be Fun, but For More Than One

Differing views on a post regarding a dog that went into an agility training venue.
http://www.underdogged.net/?p=182 (entitled what I need in a trainer who went to an agility class with her bully breed dog---breeds that I love by the way)

http://k-9solutionsdogtraininginc.blogspot.com/2008/10/people-skills-in-dog-training.html (and one on people skills in dog training, and it should be fun at all costs to the PERSON)

First of all, if I was running an agility center, I would need people to come in with their dogs with basic obedience. They would have been screened before hand. It might not be fun to find out your dog needs a prerequisite course before coming in.

Two, while the dog may not have been acting aggressively, it is the trainer's responsibility to not only keep the class fun but safe. A dog that may be sending out stressed and out of control signals is a dog that could trigger something in another dog. Dogs do not need to be out of control fools to have fun or compete in agility.

So I wasn't there, and neither was the competing trainer that contributed to her blog about it, but I think it's horribly unfair to put down a dog trainer because the class may not have been "fun" for the individual. Though I do think the one thing that might be improved upon in the future is advance screening of the clientele coming in. Unless you work with many dogs in one environment, then you have no idea how sloppy control on the trainer in charge's actions can affect the atmosphere.

Here's the thing though. These activities are being pushed as so much more "fun" than obedience. But what happens, is you start taking the fun away from everyone else in public and in private settings. You also start legislation in the long term being enacted that end up affecting dogs that are not so dangerous by an overreacting public (to that individual dog based on what is happening to dog training multitudes of dogs).

I am sure that my client's don't find it fun for them (the humans) when I dismiss them from a lesson. Actually, they take it pretty well as they know the reason is that they did not do their homework, and I would rather they not confuse the dog by doing continuing on when the humans haven't done the work that we are building onto. However, if they want to practice the homework they didn't do in front of me that is fine. Or to do exercises coming up sans dog, that is fine too.

I am pretty sure my client's don't think it's a blast when I tell them their dog will continue to be a dangerous dog unless they do the work. Some client's don't find it fun needing to think about different ways to up the distraction level in their training. There are responsibilities that make life not always fun for humans.

Teaching someone, and I don't know whether the trainer in question set you aside and explained "why and what you can do" is not always equated with fun. For instance if they don't do their homework and they have made no progress, you need to be direct. How you are direct can vary according to individual and dog in question, but you need to make humans understand their responsibility and duties to their dogs. This is not always the fun part of my job:) However, when you convince someone to take their responsibility to their dog seriously, that is the fun part.

I do sympathize. I remember going to group "obedience-hahah" classes with an aggressive dog before I was a trainer. All I got for help was shoulder shrugs.

Me and Bri's Performance Saccarappa Obedience Trial

Day 1 with Bri, we qualified before the sit stays. However, our performance was sloppy. It had been since June 21st that we had stepped foot into a ring, and I had confused Bri by spending a lot of time on fronts the day before. So she was giving me auto fronts for auto sits LOL, I am not sure if I made out in points than if she did the other option, and not sit at all. Bri lagged a lot during the figure eight, but still we didn't get the "I am sorry" from the judge before we left the ring. In fact she wanted to pet and admire Bri before we left:)

On the stays, I don't know whether Bri decided I was asking for a front yet again (I could kill myself) or she was spooked by the utility jumps going on right beside her (she was on the end) but she got up and came to me for both sit and down, effectively disqualifying us. I knew that was bad news, because if she was confused on that on day 1 (thanks to her brilliant handler who has now learned her lesson), I probably wasn't going to fix it for day two.

So we went home, had a long nap, and then did some quick full run thrus ending with the stay. She did that well at home, of course, but things and environment change in the ring. Plus I can't communicate to her in any way if she gets the look "oh, you want me to come front now?"
So Day 2. Much more put together performance by both of us. Both judges at this trial I had before. I like them both. Susan M King was on day 1. She is very nice and easy going. James M Ashton was on day two. He is very quick and all business. I appreciate this because either way your performance is going, it's over fast. He is very concise too, easy to hear, and treats everyone the exact same way. I was so proud of Bri's recall (even though this would ultimately loose it for us again) she ran forward, and bounced to a stop straight in front of me. Then she finished perfectly. Her figure eight was beautiful this time as well. I could taste it at this point. I wanted to finish up with this performance as I thought we would get a pretty good score, though perhaps less than under Susan King as Mr Ashton is pretty tough. So a score that might be higher under a different judge would probably be more on the mark with him . You would have earned every point though.

Unfortunately during the stays, Bri did it again, though she waited longer this time. sigh. I was hoping this would be our last trial for the year before we start doing open in the spring. Well, that's the way it goes sometimes. Now I have to search for another trial so we can seal up her Companion Dog. It was worth a try, I have had days where I thought the dog would completely flop due to the trials going way behind, thunder storms, rings falling down around us, and they pulled through and did it. So to give up a try even if you are pretty sure they are way confused is a mistake IMO. She improved on everything else, so if nothing else it was a reminder and a practice run, and pointing to where I had confused her.