Four Teaching Steps of Dog Training

I don't know if most of the dog owning public is aware of the levels that we pass through when teaching a dog a certain command. Here are the four levels that I usually think of:

1) Demonstrate to the dog what you want him to do.You can do this by positioning or luring your dog into position. Dogs need to be shown what to do, because they don’t naturally know the things we take for granted that older dogs have already been taught. Obviously they don't understand our verbal cues, and need to be shown what they will correspond to in the future. In the Demonstration phase, the command is verbalized in conjuction with the luring or placing the dog into correct position.

2) Teach your dog what you want him/her to do (consistency and repetition). Let them know this is not a one-time command performance. There are rewards for the correct completion of a task Be consistent. Don’t tell your dog to “sit” unless you are ready to help him/her into a sit if they don’t quite understand it yet. This is still the teaching phase, and they need to know that this word isn’t one of the stream of sounds they hear from you each day. Don’t converse with your dog during training timeThey need to know that these command words have a meaning, and that is what we are teaching them. Other sounds in the day may not have a meaning, but our commands do.

Now once certain indicators are present, is the time you start to say the command BEFORE they go into position.

3) Learning: For dogs learning happens in that instant they analyze their choices. Those choices normally are non-compliance, flee, aggression, or comply. You want to give them a few seconds to contemplate their choice once you get beyond the teaching phase. Only compliance will allow them to be rewarded, and you want to do it as soon as the correct performance happens. As the exercises go on the three Ds will be marked as well (distance, duration, and distraction To end the session on a good note, you want to have the dog succeed at least four times in a row. If it takes way too many reps to get that four times in a row, you have most likely rushed the dog forward past their threshold. Now is the time to back up to where their performance was more reliable, and move in a slower fashion forward.

You will need to be patient. In dog training anger or impatience will not get you and your companion where you need to go. If you find yourself getting frustrated, take a deep breath and imagine where it is the training will take you if done correctly. Then begin the exercises agai. Allow your dog to be successful, and remember you may need ro redefine what that is. Do not try to add things too early. The dog should fully understand the beginning of every exercise before being pushed on to the three Ds.

If corrections are used, it is now that they start being used correctly, of course.


4) Maintenance is the most forgotten step. I can say this simply by "if you don't use it you loose it". Also if you become inconsistent, then you will start loosing it. The best way to maintain is make sure you use all commands in real life situations everyday with consistency. Most of us slip at this though. Keeping up a working schedule with your dog of a few minutes going over things on a consistent basis is also helpful. Remember, it's as easy to untrain your dog as it is to train your dog:) We all vary on where we need our dogs to be, so this is largely up to what the owner wants and needs in their life.

This article has been re-edited from an older one.  

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Preparation + Repetition + Challenges = Training Plan with Standards

Margot Woods, a fine writer and trainer, wrote the attached piece on training a retrieve.   Or the lack thereof on training a retrieve.   It's a bit tongue in cheek.  The pictures are a great way to make a point.

However, the point is probably not going to get across to a novice or beginning trainer.   It also won't get across to trainers who allow their training standards to be sub par.  The point that I got from this is that if you train an excercise to a lazy or imperfect standard, then the exercise will be performed to a lazy or imperfect standard.   It's not the dog who is failing, it is the trainer if their intent is something better than what was acheived.

Why does it matter if the exercise is done in a sub par manner?   Here I will differ from some trainers and say to some people with some dogs it will not matter.   However, Margot trains dogs to do jobs.   A dog can not do a job with a sloppy or lazy communication (ie sloppy or lazy training in the first place) from their trainer.   Not everyone needs a dog that can do a job.   Not everyone needs to train an aggressive or behaviorally challenged dog to a certain standard so that they are happy OR even safe in public.  Many of the public either should or do, however.   For those folks, it is important to know what real training consists of AND how to measure it against the standard that is being trained for.

Of course the questions being made fun in Margot's blog are all part of the training plan BEFORE your dog "knows XYZ exercise".   Many owners don't get that their dog does not know the exercise if there are a list of "except fors" and "other excuses" long of why the dog won't [insert command of choice here} at a certain time.   Being that this is something the owner/trainer comes in contact with fairly often, it is something that the training should have occurred in before one can call "training completed on XYZ exercise".

Hence why I am going to Kittery today to put Magoo through his exercises.   I try to do a different place with different distractions everyday.   Magoo is pretty close to being ready to compete in Class B Novice AKC obedience.  I am so looking forward to it, and want to make sure everything is done so that I can be confident for Magoo when we go in the first few times.   It's going to be hard enough without preparation.

Real life outside the ring comes with challenges for our canine companions as well.   Be sure to prep your best friend before expecting them to perform or behave correctly in trying circumstances.

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Getting Pickles and Sadie Ready for Home

These guys have not been getting along well at home. Leadership, training, and getting to know what their dogs are telling them will get this family along way towards keeping both their dogs at home and with them.

This is the best part of my job, and why I do this. I enjoy reuniting families and educating them on working with their dogs for the best and most optimal results.

Many factors are causing the problems in this case, keep your fingers crossed for Pickles, Sadie, and their family:)

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Dog + Stomache Shaped Hairball = Surgery

Were you aware that dogs can get hairballs? Me neither, until very recently. I also did not know that hair could accumulate over time, in your dogs stomach, until it was dense and the size of a stomach. That is, until it decides to go elsewhere. In this case, traveling down to my dog's intestines.

Course this all started on a Saturday (when else really would something like this start). Well, I mean, unknowing to us this it started long ago, but the dangerous movement of "the hairball" moved into his intestines quite recently. I guess it's lease was up, and it needed roomier accommodations than my poor guy's stomach. Course what happened, was it got lodged there preventing nutrients from entering his body. The little things like water...never mind food.

There was poop and pee, which made us think it was a stomach virus not a blockage. It never ever occurred to us that something could have built up over time and moved. We are the kind of owners who are diligent about our dogs avoiding eating stuff they shouldn't eat. Our red boys are kept busy and active most of the day, which makes boredom behaviors less likely for them. I had not thought they licked excessively unless it was allergy season. I would not have known to be very concerned if they were to pick up lint or something on the floor, which they do not do often, but I don't rush to stop it if it has occurred. I had assumed things like this, if they are small in nature, most likely pass with everything else out of the intestinal track. Apparently, this is not always true!!! It caused quite an emergency situation that brought us to the Port City Veterinary Referral Hospital.

The vets could actually feel the blockage, below his ribs. So next was the xray to try and determine what it was. Other than a C shaped mass, that did not provide us with any clues. Asked to guess, I picked either my husbands socks (as he leaves them on the bedroom floor for me to pick up) or "something dead" that my dog may have snatched in the woods and gobbled before I noticed anything. I guess something dead would have been closer to the hairball that was removed (pictured at the top).

So last weekend, this was our excitement. These sort of things never happen on weekdays when your vet is available and open. It would have never occurred to us that something was lying in wait within our dog to move and block off his ability to absorb water and food. I am hoping now that I have lived the full scope of medical pet emergencies that I can experience. Somehow, I don't thinks so though.

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More Pickles to Day 5

Pickles clearly loves people, and being around people. Of that, there can be no question. He gets a bit separation anxiety which can be told by the mistreatment of his crate, and how he will dig in to bark if he can't see you for like a second (never mind minutes and hours). He's busy being trained that when he is quiet and calm, then he will see me at his crate door. Bossing me to come and get him pronto, does not get him anywhere (except early in the morning, as I want to make sure he doesn't need to go).

Pickles has had good night sleeps since the first night. He had been quiet in his crate until yesterday, when a friend came over with their five dogs who will be staying with us in April. Hearing the new dogs and people outside gave him ideas. Unfortunately, I hadn't left him in one of the stronger crates, so he did manage to bend a wire until I could get up to him, when I realized what he was most likely up to. No harm done, I was more mad at myself for forgetting the owners warning about this. There are two crates that we have, where he has been excited, but unable to get anywhere with them. It would be nice to extinct this sort of behavior while he is here. Once he manages to get a little success though, then he thinks he will be able to duplicate it, and a bit of a tantrum happens:)

I have discovered that while other dogs may be Pickles second choice, and perhaps he may be guarding his humans from his canine companion (haven't met Sadie yet, or fully seen Pickle so I am on the fence about this), he does not seem to have anything against dogs per say. He also hasn't broken out into full play mode with or without dogs present. So his enthusiasm for dogs could be greater than or less than what I am seeing. I have seen that he is interested, and will go to them for comfort AND take comfort from them. The last two days, he has been allowed around dogs without my hand welded to the other end of the leash. A lot of time is being spent allowing him to come out, and training time is separate and at the end of the day so I can learn more about him when he doesn't feel my gaze upon him every minute. He is supervised every minute, but I try to pretend I am not paying attention to everything he does as much as is possible and keep everyone (including him) safe. Luckily, I have had very friendly and sweet dogs over, who are used to the "behaviorally challenged" and giving space when needed. It seems that Pickles is feeling safer and safer in this environment.

As I will expect to continue at home, Pickles is not allowed on the furniture with or without me OR with or without other dogs. It is so important that until he gets these relationship and pack issues worked out, that he isn't given the opinion that he has the same status or privileges as others who are abiding by the rules (basically no biting or attacking). He is allowed on dog beds. He has begun going out in the pen with others to go to the bathroom (without me holding a leash).

For the quieter dogs like Pickles (ones who tend to hold a lot in without a lot of show); I go slow and am not very cocky of the fact that he hasn't blown up at anyone. I have noticed that if he does the little lip curl, which I have seen three times since he has been here directed at another), it has been on face to face greetings or meetings. It's possible that this is a result of the injuries he has sustained (and which seem to be healing up nicely) on his muzzle. In other words, he might always be expecting another dog to make a move on his face. Or it could have been that I was there, and he decided the other dog shouldn't come near me. In any case, I move correct the situation quickly when he does this, and he hasn't protested. I am beginning my mental inventory on things that look like triggers. As I have said though, he has been a pretty good boy. This could be the fact that I am with him every second observing him, and he is figuring me out. Or it could just be that he is very mailable to a different way of being. I suspect some of that will be answered when Sadie comes on the last week. Also we will get some idea of what Sadie is all about.

Pickle has been working a lot on walking nicely with me, which we are now transitioning into a heel. Also on sit during distractions and things that make him uncomfortable, however not out in public just yet. That will commence in a couple of days though, on week 2. Most likely tomorrow we will go on a group walk in the woods, but Pickles will be on a leash attached to me. It will be interesting if this makes any spirit of playing with other canines creep out of him.

Pickle Dog-Days 1 to 2

Who said there are no such thing as dog training emergencies? Pickles owners had enough time to fill out the client interview form before needing to get him here immediately after a dog fight with his older sister, Sadie. This had been escalating recently, and the last four days involved incidents. The fourth day resulting in some really ugly bites on Pickles muzzle, neck, and inside his mouth.

It has appeared to his family to be him starting the altercation (and sounds like Sadie finishes it, typical girl). Since Wednesday, I have been training and gleaning as much information as I can from Pickles reactions and behavior.

The thing to remember after an incident like this, is that the dogs are a bit shell shocked that come here. So you don't get to know the true dog at first, though you can start to get some information about the dogs.

Pickles has presented to be a fearful dog around other dogs (at least in this environment, though the owner reports that Pickles has positive interactions with dogs off leash on walks). Body language isn't always the entire story, but that combined with reactions and other things the dog displays can tell you a lot. Pickles tail remained mainly tucked in between his legs on Wednesday and Thursday when around other dogs. He also froze a lot. When he was in the pen, and he saw the other dogs outside, he ran to the door and pressed himself against it. He has growled worriedly at dogs, but has not made a forward movement toward a dog. The dogs here that I have exposed him to are dogs that are trained to obey commands, and are dogs that I know will back off when they sense a dog is scared of them.

The dogs here have shown much sympathy for him when he is in the crate, however, they are wary of him when he is out of the crate (or had been the first two days). Pickles body language has been clear to me, and apparently to the dogs here to be saying stay away. Last night and today however, he has shown friendly interest. I keep all interactions with other dogs brief, and not during exciting periods where everyone is playing. I have Pickles walk with me when I go to let the other dogs out, so he can observe them discretely as they walk by and ignore him.

His training has begun with the "let's go" command, and the sit on the dog (long down but not a formal down, a leadership exercise) while around the other dogs while everyone is relaxing. By starting on a relationship that shows him that he can trust me to keep him safe, he is starting to relax among the other dogs. My husband even commented that he did not have the "low down" look today.

He does get a bit panicky when led towards new things at first. Overall, he seems mostly afraid, and willing to please. He seems interested in other dogs, but is not yet in a condition to mingle with them on his own.

Nicole Wilde New Dog Search Begins, But What Happened to The Moment of Zen?

On my the website of accumlated blogs, where most dog trainers there make a little spit up lodge in my throat, Nicole Wilde happily reports BEGINNING her search for a new dog since Mojo died in September 2008. Wait though did we forget a little moment of Zen that happened after Mojo died?

Now Nicole's previous problems with Zen the puppy German Shepherd, as reported in this linked blog, was that as an experienced and renowned dog trainer (or thought so by some IMO very niave people), she was caught unaware by the activity level of a German Shepherd puppy. She was also alarmed that when unmuzzled and having an injured claw removed that the puppy made a move for the veterinarian (I must have missed the memo that dogs can not feel NOR should not react to pain). I know, shocking and clearly an unbalanced dog by those two reportings or "excuses".

Now Nicole Wilde is on the hunt for a new victim, er dog or puppy. If only an alert could be sent out to rescues who are going to be thrilled to have her scope out their dogs/puppies, sigh. Here is the advice that I will be sending out to her:

1. Please consider NOT getting a dog and/or puppy if you do not have the time and energy to spend with him.


2. Please communicate to the shelter what your needs are. They could have a normal puppy with normal energy that may be too much for you. English Mastiff puppies are the closest that I have seen with a low energy threshold. Don't expect them to come clean, if you don't come clean with your limitations.


3. Since you are a professional, please make a decision soundly so as to not further traumatize another rescue dog like Zen. Knowing that he was having a hard time with relocating so many times, it was totally irresponsible of you to take him. While you might think you did him no great harm, who knows where he went next and how that further bouncing around affected him.

Also you might want to scan through all my blog posts tagged "before you adopt".

Thanks,

>Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
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Fashion Sense and Dog Training

There is something so basic in dog training (that is when you train many dogs for a living) that I at least often forget to communicate to my clients. I was reminded of this yesterday during very cute and active Bristol's (German Shepherd female puppy) lesson. The basic thing that I forgot to communicate is how to dress during, and especially, training a green dog or puppy. Actual typically, I dress this way even with more seasoned and trained dogs, because a lot of my training counts on me being able to get dirty and play with the dogs (be outside in areas that may be swampy or muddy) as well, even if they are well on their way and not mouthing or jumping up anymore.

There are many reasons that I will wear clothes, while training, where I don't want to worry about ruining them. Here are just some reasons to dress down your wardrobe, and not wear your favorite (dry clean only or hand wash only) clothes while training dogs. Some of these may be over the top for just a dog owner trainer, nevertheless, I think they are great tips to keep in mind for either the professional trainer or dog owner:)

Top and bottom fashion choices:

• In dog training there are a multiple of things that might get on your clothes or you. In some breeds (Boxers, Great Danes, Newfies, et) there are these things affectionately called "flingers". These are great ropes of viscous drool that can fly anywhere in a moments notice. If you have ever had the pleasure of being in a closed car with Great Danes who shake their heads all of a sudden, you know how this stuff gets everywhere. By the way flingers show up well on knit fabrics especially dark shades of black and brown are generally not a good idea. Just a word to the wise.
• Puppy nails and mouthing puppy teeth tend to pull at certain fabrics (no light delicate fabrics or fabrics that may pull). This is why my main top choices for training dogs are made out of velour, fleece, or sweatshirt materials. Choices on my bottom half tend toward dark wash jeans, which are virtually impossible to stain with muddy feet or rip (that is real jeans not summer jeans). Don't forget how sharp puppy teeth are, even if they aren't trying, a very light weight fabric on your bottom or top half is not to hard to tear.
• Light colors always seem to stain, even if it seems that they won't. Avoid these in dog training, because muddy paws always seem to find a way to imprint on the fabric. Don't wear them on your bottom or top.

Foot Fashion Tips:

• Unless you are trying to hurt yourself, flip flops are NEVER EVER appropriate. For the safety issues, nothing with any kind of a heel or with slippery bottoms are appropriate.
• Poop is something we all strive to pick up, but can be hiding out in some tall grass. Shoes with flat yet tractable bottoms are the easiest to clean. Very intricate waffle bottoms, for instance on running shows, are not so easy to clean.
• You may want a few high quality shoes just for dog training. I NEVER skimp on my shoes that I use for dog training. I also realize these shoes may go through dirt, sand, mud, muck, poo, water puddles, and snow. So my shoes that I go out in public (not to train dogs) are a totally separate category.
• My preference is NO LACES. Well fitting slip ons with great traction is what I prefer to train dogs in.

Winter Fashion Accessories:

• Be sure that any head apparel does not block your vision. So much of dog training depends on being observant of your dog and your environment for timing and proper training.
• Thick gloves will cause you to loose a lot of the feel and the dog that you are working with. Find warm gloves that are as thin as possible when you need them. Mittens are a no no, as they impede your hand movement and dexterity even more.
• Loose skarves (and anything tempting like a pony tail) can look like a fun thing to grab and pull on for a puppy, especially.
• Boots should be warm and easy to walk in. I still haven't found the perfect slip on boot to dog train in (assuming I am going to be walking a lot during the training) that hold my feet in for duration comfortably.

Aggressively Fashion Forward (owners with dogs like this should contact a professional in dog training and behavior modification immediately):

• I will always tell my clients that it is unacceptable to wear sandals, even sports sandals when training a dog. However, I do it sometimes (give me a break it gets sooo hot in the summer, and I have a lot of dogs to train) do except when training a dog who is willing to bite me. I have never been bitten on my foot, yet I always wear thick leather shoes WITH socks to protect me if they go for my ankles.
• Jeans, real heavy duty jeans, are a must. This way you are more likely to get a bruise if a redirection comes your way, rather than a flesh wound.
• Baggy swearshirts and layers underneath. This gives you a little bubble around you to react if they go for your arms or torso.
• I have never yet felt the need to wear gloves to protect my hands from a bite. Mostly, I don't want the dogs that I work with to bite down harder as a result. However, I am sure there are some dogs out there that would inspire me to have a change of mind. So far, I would rather a basket muzzle at first, if I feel the dog is too quick for me.

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The Disappearing Collar Mystery OR Collar Quality

Gigi (female APB that boards here), Jack (my Doberman boy), Robert (my lovely husband), and myself were on a beautiful woodsy fall walk. Gigi had on her metal choke collar and was dragging a lead just in case we ran into someone. These are our woods back there, and every now and then a hiker or hunter is passing through.

So Gigi and Jackie are playing in the woods having a great old time as usual. Gigi is one of Jack's favorites, when I notice there is no leash or collar (metal) attached to Gigi anymore. She hadn't yelped or acted stuck once. The collar fit properly and snugly (in other words not an easy collar to slip off, even with human hands). The only thing I can think of is that one of the links must have worn and the collar just snapped off in the woods!!

Luckily, this is a dog that has been trained, so we weren't worried about a flight risk or anything. In fact, I should have just pocketed the collar and leash on the walk since she is so well behaved. I just like to have the leash handy with her due to her past experiences. That way I can be more relaxed if I stop and talk to someone, unexpectedly.

Had Gigi been in a stressful city situation where she normally does not do well OR this had been a green dog, this would have been BIG trouble. The collar that Gigi had on had been purchased from a pet store in Portland. The thing about buying from pet stores, in general, is that though they carry these collars, they aren't very knowledgeable about the importance of selling quality. Herm Sprenger is a name normally associated with collar quality in these types of metal training collars. The chains are formed well, and prongs are smoothed out. The cheap imports that many retail pet supply stores buy are from china, and who knows what kind of metal they may be made out of. If you are going to use these collars, please educate yourself on the brands to use, and the metals that are used. It is pretty rare for a collar to snap like this (and like I said, that is the only thing that I can envision happening since she was in our sight the whole time). By the way the price differential between a quality metal training collar and a cheap collar is not enough to sway the informed consumer. It's quality in the performance as well as the stability and material uses. If you have ever tested a substandard collar against a Herm Sprenger, you will know that what I say is true.

Perhaps once the leaves clear, I will find Gigi's collar and leash LOL. Until then, the case of the vanishing collar will remain a mostly unsolved mystery.

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Happy Fifth Birthday Leon (10/18/2004)

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Photographic Friday

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Mannerly Mutts-The Basics-Definitions Part 2

Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It's important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these definitions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects. Some of the following definitions are a lot more detailed outside of the dog training or behavior modification world. These are the basics talked about as referenced (generally) by dog trainers. This is part two of the definitions and basics postings.

Ever wonder what those trainers or behavior modification people are talking about. While these might not be the only definitions in the dog world or otherwise, these might give you a clue!!


Drive-The level of desire for something which results in a behavior


Motivation-The act of designing the circumstances in which a dog wants to and participates in learning. The energizing force that results in a behavior.

Generally, most trainers are talking about the presentation of a reward, as chosen by the dog, in order to design the motivation.

It can also be used in some dog training circles to talk about the motivation to avoid something unpleasant.

This is not MY definition of motivation in dog training, however. I am talking about creating a desire to participate not a desire to avoid when I use the word "motivation" in this sense.

Conditioning-Per the free dictionary-"a learning process in which an organism's behavior becomes dependent on the occurrence of a stimulus in its environment."

Classical Conditioning-Also known as Pavlovian or respondent conditioning, classical conditioning is a form of associative learning, which was first demonstrated by Ivan Pavlov. A common procedure to begin classical conditioning involves the use of a neutral stimulus along with a significant stimulus which would induce obvious acknowledgement by the subject. The significant stimulus brings about an ingrained response.

Use in dog training or behavior modification-When talked about in dog training, bridges would be an example of classical conditioning. The example of a bridge would be a clicker (or yes, good boy, target stick) when clicker training protocols are used. Behavior modification procedures of making other stimulus less intimidating (such as strange humans or unexpected noises) by associating these with something the dog likes (IE most likely food) is another example.

• Neutral Stimulus-Something that starts out with no innate response from a being.


• Conditioned Stimulus (CS)-Something that gets a response after being paired with an unconditioned stimulus.


• Conditioned Response (CR)-Also known as conditional reflex, is the action resulting when presented wit the now conditioned stimulus.


• Unconditioned Stimulus (US)-Something that obviously and instantly gets a response. It does not need conditioning.


• Unconditioned Response (UR)-The response to an unconditioned stimulus.


• Associative Learning-As per wikipedia "Associative learning is the process by which an element is learned through association with a separate, pre-occurring element."

Counter Conditioning- Per the free dictionary is "conditioning in which a second incompatible response is conditioned to an already conditioned stimulus"

Used typically in dog training by teaching a sit so the dog can't do a typical jump onto a person. A well taught sit is incompatible with jumping. Or, in other words, the dog can't both jump and sit at the same time.

Operant Conditioning-B.F. Skinner formulated a detailed model based on reinforcement, punishment, and extinction (be sure to read the definitions used with this below-these are not the general definitions of these words outside of dog training or behavior modification). It is the process of changing the form of behavior through the use of consequences.

• Reinforcement-increasing the likelyhood of the behavior
• Punishment-decreases the likelyhood of the behavior
• Negative-to take something out of the equation
• Positive-to add something to the equation
• Extinction-Produces neither favorable or unfavorable results. The action or behavior, therefore, occurs less and less frequently than before.
• Four Quadrants of this learning theory-(R+) Positive Reinforcement to increase the likelyhood of behavior by adding something, (R-) Negative Reinforcementto increase the likelyhood of behavior by taking something away, (P+) Positive Punishment to decrease the likelyhood of behavior by adding something, and (P-) Negative Punishment to decrease the likely hood of behavior by taking something away

Uses in dog training are limitless using the four quadrants. Here are just a couple of examples. (Positive Reinforcement) You reward with food after a desired behavior to increase the likelyhood of that behavior, when called for, again. (Negative Punishment) You take away your attention to decrease the likelyhood of your dog jumping on you.

Punishment-

• Necessary Action Punishment (not used with the learning theory of Operant Conditioning) An action that may be swift, necessary, and adversive but that is not used as a teaching tool. To me, punishment occurs when the opportunities for training or management have been missed.
• Negative Punishment such as used in Operant Conditioning would be a time out in a crate. You are taking away attention in order to decrease an undesireable behavior. This sort of punishment does teach and help your dog make a correlation regarding what actions get attention taken away.
• Abusive Punishment is abuse. (a definition for another posting, abuse)

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Fearful Dogs-How Owners Inadvertently CAN Create

For the purposes of this article, I am talking about fear (not fear [with] aggression, which has both positive and negative definitions in dog training, behaviors OR aggression behaviors). Nor the fear that a resource is going to be taken away, and not dominant behaviors (which in my definition are not necessarily undesirable). A dog's personality or temperament, IMO, can not be described as simply "fearful", "dominant", "abused", or "aggressive". Dogs have rich lives (or should have) just as we do, and are not put into one simple box definition. They may have behaviors that fit that definition (and will have other behaviors and characteristics beyond those), but dogs (themselves) can not be IMO defined this way.

There are many environmental, medical, neurological, and genetic factors that can push a dog towards fearful behaviors. It's important for owners to know that things they may do can make (one would hope inadvertently) a dog more fearful. Here are some possible common contributors:

• (Food, Toys or Play used incorrectly) Food, Toys, or Play may be the answer if done CORRECTLY. Too often people do not understand the training and behavior modification use of food or clicker training. Due to mistiming or thinking that food alone may bring the dog around, owners will often continue to trap their dogs in fearful behaviors by not addressing or understanding the ways to bring more confident behavior out. Instead owners should be rewarding the investigation of the fearful thing in steps rather than rewarding the avoidance of it. In another direction, "play" can sometimes be too rough and not enjoyable to the dog. This can also cause fear of "play" or for the dog to not view what you are doing as a "play" behavior.
  



• Not allowing your dog the freedom to investigate and discover (safely and supervised). One example of this would be a dog mildly startled by a sound. Before the dog can recover and investigate, the owner scoops them up or hugs them cooing to them that "it's okay". The grabbing away from the object as if it actually is scary, rather than allowing the dog to recover and discover for themselves starts to ingrain fearful responses. Dogs need the ability to do some independent learning on their own.
  


• Pushing a dog too far before he/she is ready. Dogs are all different and learn at their own pace. You ARE NOT going to make progress with a dog unless they are ready. One way to be sure that you do make progress is to break training or behavior modification into reasonable steps. However, that does not mean to stunt any progress that you could make either. The experience of a results based trainer can help you judge whether to stay a course or another simpler direction is needed.



• No socialization or poor socialization or exposed to unsafe socialization. Socialization is often misunderstood by people. It's not simply dragging the dog out the door a couple of times or walking them by dogs on the street. In my training and socialization plan, I have a minimum of four outdoor areas and two indoor areas that I actively use to train and socialize in. I do not allow out of control people or dogs to come up to my dogs in those areas. I keep my dogs safe and secure with me so they don't unnecessarily meet with a traumatic experience. This is a balancing act as you don't want to be so protective that your dog does not experience life, and yet don't want to be so blase that they experience something negative unnecessarily.
  


• Allowing or expecting a dog to withstand inappropriate contact. Despite our efforts to make a dog's life as stress free as possible, our dogs can become unduly stressed out if we are not watching out for them. Children, adults, and other dogs can all act either inappropriately with our dogs or in ways our dogs do not like. I am not talking about not socializing your dog here. Every dog can get too much of a good thing, or be expected to experience something that they do not enjoy.
  


• Not allowing the smaller dogs' paws to ever hit the ground. There are factors that make small dog ownership different than large dog ownership. They are smaller than others, and can be seen as prey drive or easy pickings for bullying. However, you still want a confident little dog that is enjoying life. Be sure to let them be a dog when it's safe and appropriate. Let their feet touch the pavement, the earth, and let them run through the woods and get dirty (again with training and safety in mind). Too many small dog owners scoop their dogs up when there is nothing to be worried about. Treating your dog like a cat, an accessory, or a delicate china object can make your dog fearful and act out neurotically. IMO, a dog that is acting out that much is not enjoying life very much either.
  


• Incorrect communication linked with opposite action. For instance using an endearing term, while doing something that is scary to the dog. If this term has been used to tell the dog it's okay before, it will begin to mean something else entirely to fearful dogs. It may actually come to be that they should be scared and they will be hurt. Instead I will use a command to indicate that something will be over soon, and their job is to hold still until it is (good for vet visit type of fears or grooming fears).
  


• The abuse excuse as a reason to trap a dog in a fearful state forever. If an adopter of a dog knows there is an abuse story in the dog's past, they may trap the dog in a fearful state inadvertently. Doing the "poor dog" and "coddling" can teach a dog that to remain in a fearful state is the way to get love and affection. Don't trap your dog there, and let your dog enjoy the unique experiences that come with being a canine.
  


• Not preparing a dog after or before unexpected sensory interaction. When you know that your dog is likely to over react to stimuli (that other dogs generally would not react to), there are ways that you can prepare your dog to enter into situations without being shocked by them. If for instance, you decide to just foist your dog into a family party situation, you will spend a lot of time struggling with your dogs reactions. Inadvertently, you may make your dog even more fearful, even though nothing really wrong happened. It's best to work a dog with fearful reactions up to big events before pushing them into them.
  


• Making a dog too dependent of being with you ALL the time. I love spending time with my dogs. I could totally spend 24 hours of each day doing stuff with my dogs. However, I don't want them to become neurotic should I need to go out, and leave them in. Some owners do not allow their dogs alone time, as time to figure out that they are safe when they are alone. This is a perfect set up for separation anxiety to occur.

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Mannerly Mutts-The Basics-Dog Training Definitions Part 1

Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It's important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these defintions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects.

• Fear (as defined by some dog trainers) Fearful behavior is generally the backward movement (not confident) of a dog away from the feared stimulus, perhaps until they are cornered. When describing a dog's behavior as fearful, many trainers are talking about the defense drive. The dog wants to avoid something that it is not sure of. Normally when a trainer is talking about a fearful behavior in a dog, they are saying their is an exaggerated response to a stimulus that would otherwise be non-threatening to the general canine domesticated population.



• Temperament The estimation of whether a dog is suitable or not suitable to a particular task based on observation of their responses to that stimuli.



• Aggression ( I tend to untangle my definition from overlapping with fear or dominant as to the best of my ability) A canine with the confidence of forward moving action in order to further a goal.



• Dominant The behavior of confidentally or with extreme willfulness to seek to control resources.



• Behavior Modification In dog training this is a series of steps and exercises that seek to improve a behavior in the domesticated canine that is seen as unsuitable to the human family or handler's purpose. (ie being a pet dog, a police dog, a therapy dog and so on) IMO the possiblility of behavior modification is greatly enhanced by the knowledge of dog training, and in most cases I feel dog training is necessary to communicate to the dog in order to get to behavior modification practices.



• Dog Training The practice of teaching a way of communication to and for the canine/human relationship to work optimally. IMO dog training in most cases (except the most bomb proof of dogs) requires many elements of behavior modification as well.

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Before Even Thinking About Biking With Your Dog...

Recent posts have gotten me thinking about my learning experiences biking with my dog. This is not an activity that dog owners "need" to do or "have to" learn. I don't teach a class on biking with your dogs for instance. This is something that I do with my dogs for the enjoyment of us both (and one of walking clients, Minny Man). For some reason my dog, Leon, especially loves doing this with me even if I am just circling around my house.

So before you even think of biking with your dogs, consider these tips and safety measures:

1. Concrete, pavement, and cars can kill you or your dog. (not while biking) I missed a step one day to the mudroom and fell onto our concrete floor. My whole chin was one large lump and bruise, I felt quite fortunate to have hit there instead of my head (where a concussion may have rendered me unconscious and then dead). I was also very grateful to have not shattered my jaw. Now consider this power in a scenario where you may be propelled forward. (see number 3)


2. Dirt roads and trails contain rocks, which can kill you if you strike the right body part on them. (see number 3)


3. Wear a helmet on your bike with or without a dog. (See number 1)


4. You have no business even thinking about biking with your dog, unless you know how to train solidly for basic obedience. Or are training with someone who will teach this solidly. The reason for this being a dog left to his own does not know the danger caused by running UNDER the bikes wheels or lunging at a squirrel.


5. Prepare, prepare, prepare before mounting your bike with your dog in tow. I usually start with heeling my dog next to a shopping cart at Petco for instance to get them used to it in a fun environment. I heel them next to me walking my bike. I do lots of these things before I mount the bike with my dog, including making sure that they know basic obedience very very well. You will also want an emergency sit, auto sits when you stop the bike.


6. Always consider the safety of the general public around you. This article link is one example of what could happen.


7. Flexi leads are very likely to get wrapped up in gears (and there should be no need as your dog should be heeling next to you IMO ). This is why I do this on my strong, sturdy leather lead. Note this is not to keep my dog with me when he pulls, as I do not allow my dogs to pull when in a heel. It's to keep the loose leash from being frail and thin enough to wrap around the gears.


8. (related to number five) Just in general with biking, I tend to not wear sneakers with any laces that could become untied and wind up in the gears. Some lighter baggier kinds of clothes can get caught in them as well.


9. Do NOT attach leash to bike. Better to hold the leash (and see why 4 is very important) in an accordian style, in case your dog stops to pee (seee number 10) so you can quickly drop the leash, stop, and call your dog to you when he/she is done.


10. Remember dogs may have to stop and pee, and may not be able to tell you how...other than by stopping suddenly. (see number 9)


11. Keep in mind that your dog should only go at their comfortable pace.


12. (related to 11) If you want to multi task and exercise, put the bike on the highest tension level possible, rather than overtaxing your dog with speed.


13. This is a group/partnership event, you must always be aware and look out for your dog and others.

I am sure that I missed a lot more, but these are things to think about before even considering biking with your dog:) One can always bike without a leash with their well trained dog. I prefer a leash on my dog whenever I am around vehicles that are moving quickly. When I am riding around my house, my dogs don't have leashes on, and are free to decide to follow or not follow. Many times I don't have them in a heel if it's just on my own property. Still, you will want to start out so that your dogs are aware that they shouldn't run into wheels, jump on you, et. I probably could have added a few more for this scenario.

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Articles on the American Temperament Society that Reference BSL

http://www.atts.org/ is where you can find out information on the ATTS test.

Stop BSL's Article which mentions ATTS

Dog Bite Org's Article which talks about ATTS

Rios Pitbull Article-Last Article Mentions Temperament Test in Types of Testing (also info on types of aggression, the people that developed temperament tests)

ASWA Newsletter With Article (scroll down) On Someone's Actual Experience With the Test I found it interesting that this person reported that the scoring is 0-10. If you get no zeros, you pass the test. I don't know if I would find that particularly relevant, unless I saw the actual score of the dog (or I should say average cumlative score of the dogs), and not just whether they passed or failed!!

Jim Engel's Article on ATTS-He talks a lot about the concerns that I have, and was one of the earlier supporters of the test. He also talks about the history of the test.

ATTS discussed as an alternative to other more concerning temperament tests.

Here are the initial concerns that I had about the test being used now as a general public temperament in an attempt to fight BSL or assume insurance companies can/will use this information wisely in the future:

1. If failed, it puts the blame on the dog and NOT other contributing factors. Worse yet, it puts the blame on the breed.
2. A test where you can only fail by getting a zero on a 0-10 scale does not impress me. I also don't like pass/fail tests. I used to take those in college to get the credit, and not need to worry about the grade.
3. The statistics provided to the public, and if this same breakdown is all that is provided to insurance companies is way too vague. I would really prefer it more if information such as whether the dog had previous training, the total of the test score, and other information was provided.

I hope you find these articles as informative as I did. I tried to provide every view that I could find without biase. I don't even know that I have a biase, what I do have is a thought process and need to know whether I am truly furthering something or hurting something now or in the future before following the herd.

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Hunting Season

For those of you that live in places where hunting can take place very close to your home, it's time to start locating your "orange" gear. All the humans and dogs here have orange vests (and in my case a hat). We actually have a tree stand located 10 feet away from our property line.

Find out about the hunting regulations in Maine using this link. This information and fishery and wildlife contact numbers can also be found on our webpage under the links section year round.


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Jackie and I at York Maine's Art in The Park

Hoobie One Week Anniversary At Home

It is with relief that I report Hoobie has had a successful week one back at home. Even when I work so hard on a case, I don't feel like anything has been accomplished until I hear that things are working at home. By no means is any one's job done just yet, but I have been pleased with the three reports on Hoobie that I have received in the last week from his owners. Even more importantly, the owners seem pleased and comfortable with the tools that I have given them.

Hoobie sounds like he is very happy at home. He is settling into the changed rules regarding his sleeping arrangements, and the behaviors that will no longer be tolerated. It's important that the owners keep this all consistent, as he is likely to "test the waters" during the next few weeks and months. I don't think that he can beat the positives in his own doggie life that have been made (and that will be an incentive to him):

• Hoobie has an area where he can sleep undisturbed (as do his owners LOL). With a chronically ill dog, it's important that they get rest and relaxation. A dog that gets unrealistically angry when awakened, IMO, is a dog that is not getting his ZZZs that are needed.



• As with the above point, Hoobie's daily schedule allows for down time for him to get rest during the day.



• He is no longer on sleeping pills to get through the night, and does not need to tolerate any adverse affects of those. (such as grogginess during his awake hours)



• He no longer has incidents of vomiting and diarrhea. One can only imagine that this makes him feel healthier and more active. (and more tolerant) We may have eliminated the need for one of his other three medications as well.
  



• He is able to be out more, and enjoyed a lot more by his human and canine friends.
  



• He is able to start making friendships with the canines that come into his home.
  



• He is able to enjoy walks outside the house around strange people and canines.
  



• His owners are able to take him for car rides now, without the fear of him trying to jump into the front seat with them and be out of control. He is able now to learn to behave in the car under his own steam, rather than have to remain behind the metal grate and separated from his family.
  



• He enjoys being petted now!!! Not just on his own terms because he is afraid humans are going to be unpredictable every moment now.

• For both physical and mental health reasons, Hoobie can now be groomed at home instead of having to be sedated at the vet's office.

And so now Hoobie gets to start his second chance at a stable dog's life in a human family. This has not been an easy case. I am very proud of Hoobie's owners for being the dedicated and responsible people that they are. You don't often have the privilege of working with clients like this.

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Days Off With The Boys

I have been spending a ton of time with my Red Boys, Jack and Leon. Pictures should be coming via my husband's cell phone of our outing at Art in the Park on Saturday. Such gorgeous stuff is there every year, and this year was no exception. Jack was very well behaved around the other dogs there. He gets very upset if he looses sight of his brother, Leon, however.

Sunday, we started by going to Paneras. Their training has gotten sloppy, and they were totally crazy together yesterday. They kept breaking their downs, and Leon did his woeful crying thing. Of course, they got tons of attention and compliments as we sat there. I was alone, so what I did was get my Chai and Pecan Roll first, then got them from the car. Leon's such a mother's boy, that he gets upset if my attention is not constantly on him LOL. Eventually, he and Jack just cuddled together and calmed down. We also took two long walks in the woods yesterday. Leon just likes to trundle along smelling stuff or race after his brother, Jack. Jack is all about movement and hunting in the woods. You have to watch him, as he is especially talented at finding things both alive and dead in the woods. Perhaps not as talented as my deceased dog, Jazz, however who would find and fling snakes at us in the woods LOL. Leon wants to be friends with all living creatures and does not automatically think of them as a snack.

In order to get their training back up to par, I am going to need to work them both separately and together in public. Also make sure the commands are in good form in the more quiet and less distracting situations.

We are going to the vet today as I found a rash on Jackie's stomach while during our beauty session this morning. I have noticed also that he has begun itching his ears a lot lately. Additionally, there has also been a change in the time that he goes to the bathroom. Lately, he has needed to go at 3am in the morning. It's no big deal to wake up with him, I am just worried that this change might be a symptom of something going on with him. Individually it might not seem like anything, but I always like to be safer than sorrier. Jackie is very healthy generally.

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What To Do With Myself This Weekend

So here I am on my first official day with no doggies other than my own since February 1st!!! It doesn't seem like having other dogs in the house would take up so much time, but truth is it does and now my day is open for all sorts of things:)

For one, I actually have time to update my blogs now with new articles and content. I definitely dropped the ball at the end of August, but I was getting so burnt out on work that I had nothing left. This gave me the idea that if next year is any busier, I better be healthier and in much better shape. I also just might be looking for an assistant next year to keep my sanity. I could really use someone to video tape sessions, clean the food and water bowls, poop scoop, load pictures and video onto the computer, walk the non problematic client dogs, and set up pre-lessons. It is possible that I might delve into group lessons next year, so it would also be useful to have an assistant for that. Right now the economy is only so so, and my business grew this year but I can't count on that continuing for next year.

Equally important, I have at least two dogs to ready for Novice trials. One just needs to earn her last leg, and one needs all three legs. Jack, I want to advance his training and think about bringing him to Open. Leon, I want to advance his training in the cute things he can do that people love on the beach. He has a hard time with his knees, so I try to stay away from sit stays and jumps. I want to improve his obedience again for when clients see him, but since he is neither aggressive nor a dog that will go into competition, I let him and I slack a bit on that .

Today the human AND canine family will be attending "Art in the Park" in York Maine. This is where various artists set up in a park near here. That should be a nice relaxing and fun time with the dogs. Jackie gets very upset when he looses sight of his brother, Leon, and this will also be one of the training things that I need to work with him on, though I don't know if it will be today.

Tomorrow will probably be devoted to cleaning. Sadly, I have not trained the dogs to do the mopping, sweeping, and cleaning of windows yet. Though I can reintroduce to Leon the concept of getting me things:)


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Hoobie Went Home Wednesday Afternoon

After four months here, Hoobie went home this last Wednesday afternoon. He had a seven hour car ride awaiting him, and a trip through customs. I heard from his owner waiting at home during the last three hour stretch that Hoobie was asleep in the car, as his other owner finished up their long commute.

The hardest part, for me, is over; but I still have a job to do when Hoobie is home in the form of being support for unexpected situations, and commenting on the training an maintenance going forward. I am hoping that news starts coming as soon as the owners and Hoobie are settled; so that I know how things are going. This is the letting go stage, which is hard for a trainer like me. Hoobie was my charge for four months of hard work. While I am so enjoying my mini vacation this weekend, and can feel the weight of everyday care and responsibility for Hoobie leaving my shoulders, it is still my job to make sure everything goes forward at home well. Plus, I naturally worry about my dogs and owners for a good few months after a behavioral case like this. Hoobie being the most behaviorally challenged dog that I have ever seen in my care. Luckily, he was only forty pounds!! He is also bright, able to learn, and the problem was not that he didn't like people (or other dogs).

I should be back to my daily postings, now that "summer season" has officially ended. My dogs training has become sloppy, so I will be concentrating on that. I will also be concentrating on finishing up my training manuals on adult dogs and puppies during this period of time. I will be revisiting whether I think Jack can go through Open reliably next Spring, and hopefully take in some seminars. Also, I am considering doing some group classes next year----possibly. We will see on that.

I will pat my back on the Hoobie case a year from now if his owners are happy and he is still at home:) For now, I wait in anticipation for news of my little monster.

I was very proud that before he went home, Hoobie's owner bathed, brushed, clipped his hair, clipped his nails, et without a blow. This is something any one of which, he needed to be sedated and put to sleep for at the vets. We also watched tv together as my husband popped in and out one night, this is something that Hoobie would race across the floor for to bite the incoming person, whoever it was. Now the trick is, to keep the progress going at home.

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Updates Ending on August

Magoo: I am currently training him on the last official exercie, the finish. I am also enlongating the distance for come front. These two exercises in obedience, you need to be careful of. That is you most likely want to do them completely seperately. In addition, I have found that using the command heel for finish makes it less confusing for the both of us. I personally train finish one way or the other, and others will train both different kinds of finishes. I may change this up with Magoo, though I am undecided on that yet.

For polishing later on, I will want to have people stand in as posts for his figure eight, and strangers "examine" him during a stand. I have a feeling I will have plenty of volunteers for this, as we are going out in public now.

If you don't train the exercises seperately, it is more likely that the dog will go right to finish instead of stopping at front. I have learned this the hard way LOL, and needed to retrain both of my dogs to do them seperately.

Hoobie Doobie: Hoobie's days resemble the following lately, as far as his training schedule:

1. About one half to one hour of maintence work (depends on how the performance is) every day on the exercises he started on so he remains somewhat fresh for his owners. So these are the sits, downs, stays, "let's go", place, crate, and heeling type of exercises.
2. At least one half hour to an hour of grooming work, which incorporates the obedience exercises. Hoobie operates better when he knows what is coming up. So if I say "sit", and brush him---then he knows this is going to be over soon. Typically, I use sit for brushing, clipping the front nails (with paw command), shaving, toweling, and ear cleaning. I use down for brushing and toweling especially his front legs, which is the area he is the most sensitive of. I use stand for brushing, shaving, and clipping his back nails. We can get through a session of doing all of these now pretty much without a "blow". The front legs are still the thing that he comes close to tantrums on at this point, and I suspect this is where the injections when he was younger may have been given. This is totally done muzzled at this point, and should continue that way for a long while. Hoobie needed to be put to sleep for this process before.
3. At least one half hour to an hour of territorial and guarding behavior work a day. Hoobie guards areas like the back of cars or the inside of his crate (even from the outside when his food bowl or toy are in there. He became very good with me alone with him and the crate, and I have been working him up to other canines (as a prelude to humans) being around the areas that he is territorial or guarding over. He is also a resource guarder, and so working him to not demand the cheese whiz that comes with his meds, but instead learn to "leave it" and "take it" in various different scenarios. He used to have a very hard time when territorial met resource guarding (ie cheese whiz through crate bars which is the safest), but that all came together a little while ago when we were alone. Now I expect him to do it when others are around milling outside the crate. It's the easiest and safest way to do it. He's good outside the crate most times, but I feel it's very important to use the PVC pipe just in case.

So now with Hoobie's homecoming getting close, it's time to coach at least one owner how to keep this moving forward. The trust and relationship that I have built with Hoobie also needs to be built with his owners. As with most couples, it looks like one will be at the head of Hoobie's training. The same is true in my house, my husband enjoys the benefits of the training but does not so much participate. The one problematic thing in a behaviorally challenged dog like this, is that one way or another, whether the other spouse is home less or not, he needs to learn that the more infrequent home inhabitor is just as important as the primary home inhabitor.

There are at least two ways that I envision this going. And I will write about that tomorrow LOL. I need to remember especially about silence and space in this next posting for Hoobie. At home, I think he was getting a bit freaked on being examined so much, and the owners need to remember there is a time and place for that BUT ALSO dogs need to be left alone sometimes as well for their own mental well being.

Akuma: He is starting on his downs and comes. Akuma's owner's left hand has become partially disabled. It's surprisingly difficult to train a young puppy with only one maine hand, even if it is the one that is usually used in training. It makes the molding into a sit or down a bit harder, and I have tried to modify what I can for Akuma's owner. Leash position, holding, and body movement and attitude become even more important when you have less body parts to rely on!!

Akuma does not really have any behavioral issues, other than he loves people and would love to pull his owner over to all people that he sees. Very friendly and sweet dog.

Leon #2: Leon's owner was able to take her first real walk without me. Leon is a lovely boxer but not so lovely on the first meeting of other canines. He can be quite alarming really, and there is a protcol that must be done before he meets other dogs. However, after meeting other dogs, he is a good friend and playmate.

Right now we are concentrating just on the ability to walk past other dogs that are leashed and minding their own business. It takes practice on the owner's part to remember to be calm and in control so that anxiety does not travel down the leash to inadvertently alert that something is wrong. He is not ready to be walked into a pack of strange dogs.

Leon also is a lover of humans in any form. He has two little girls of his own that he loves.

Tucker: Is a new lab puppy client that will be starting next week! I have met him boarding with me at 10 weeks old, and he is quite a little puppy. Love him. He is probably four times the size now!!


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Beautiful Mornings

In the mornings, I usually take sometime with the dogs here and relax on the porch with my coffee. The dogs are not always ready to play first thing in the morning, as they know they have a whole day of activity ahead. My dogs and the dog care dogs were mostly lying on the porch enjoying the cool breeze and the small finches in the middle island.

Preston was amusing himself and me as he would rush the island every time a group of finches would grow to a certain size. All the small birds flew up into the air almost as if it was staged for the cinema. Preston would then come back and wait yet again until the crowd of finches grew as the perched upon the Black Eyed Susans.

That is an old picture of Preston before he was trained to remain in the yard off leash. The worst thing he used to do was run at cars, cars he couldn't even see LOL. I have been having some problems with my computer, so I haven't been able to concentrate on downloading new more current pictures or video:( I would have loved to get Preston's pictures as he played yesterday morning.

The other dogs were too lazy to move!!

Big Dogs, Small Dogs, and All Those In Between

As a trainer, I talk a lot about temperament and individual personalities in the light of how they fit into training plans. There are other things that cause trainers to change things up. Sometimes it's subtle like a larger or smaller step to accomodate size. Sometimes it's the use of equipment to make the human part of the equation able to handle a much stronger species, until they are trained.

I got to thinking about this the other day, when I started on Magoo's finish. It's been, like never, that I have trained a dog of his stature all the obedience commands for competition. And so the first few tries at getting him to walk into position, were, well humorous. It wasn't that Magoo didn't want to do it, it was that my steps and speed back were for a Doberman or smaller NOT a Great Dane. You need to be clear with your body movements and adjust them to be clear to your dog. Once I got my stride adjusted, Magoo suddenly understood what to do. Otherwise, neither one of us was in position for the step forward.

When training a dog, think of the physical things that help your training program.

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Hoobie's Crate Finds A New Home

Hoobie is staying with us through August now. His home has been going through repairs, and his owner wants to train the visiting dogs that come to the house before Hoobie comes back. Both not bad reasons for Hoobie to stay put. It certainly will make the transition back home easier for both Hoobie and the owners.

So Hoobie's education is continuing. The following has been accomplished with me, and needs to be transferred to Hoobie's owners:

• Commands learned have been let's go, stand, heel, place, crate, sit, down, leave it, take it, and stay. Now some of these he would perform before, now he is reliable in distracting circumstances.
• Grooming in a muzzle is no longer an activity for which Hoobie must be put out OR can only be in short spurts.
• Hoobie is enjoying petting, In fact, he often seeks it out from both of us.
• Strangers that are at all dog savvy are not considered an instaneous threat to Hoobie.
• Walking in public (with a muzzle to protect a public who might reach out to pet without a thought) is pleasant and Hoobie enjoys these.
• He is taking his medication in the crate through the bars in a sit (he's territorial and a resource guarder) with the use of the commands "leave it" and "take it" making him a more polite boy.

So now that he is going to be staying longer than expected, we have moved onto some more advanced parts of his training. It's all well and good that he trusts me much more around his food, treats, and space but what about others... It's hard to recruite strange humans (strange to Hoobie) to drop over all the time, but we do have strange and known canines coming over all the time. So while I am not expecting the owners to serve Hoobie's favorite food in the midst of a party while he's out of a crate, I am teaching at least more impulse control while in the crate.

This is important because he is territorial as well. So previously, tackling the resource and territorial aggression in the same lesson seemed too much for Hoobie. Now he is prepared for it. Can't find my camera, but right now Preston is lying next to Hoobie's crate and next to his food bowl. Hoobie is napping without concern. However, when Magoo just tried to approach, Hoobie started in with a low growl indicating he thought a threat was coming to his food.

I have just moved Hoobie's family room crate to be more in the traffic of both me and the dogs. His crate previously was in a solitary room and in a remote corner of the family room. If we can get him to stop guarding the small spaces, we can eventually get him to stop guarding whole rooms. This is a long term goal I am talking about, I am expecting that Hoobie will be crated according to the rules and schedules that we map out. Right now, the reason that he is not guarding whole rooms is because he is not allowed to be in the position where he would. It's part of teaching him the correct responses to replace the need to guard.

Part of training a dog like this, is to show the reasons why guarding is not necessary. You also want to show the dog what NOT guarding gets them. That is not guarding the car, gets a car ride to a fun place. Not guarding the crate, allows the crate door to open to all the possibilities there. In comparison, an altercation is not such a desirable thing for the DOG . That is what you are teaching, an aggressive reaction on the dog's part is not worth the loss in freedom and the other things they enjoy. Of course in order to do this, it's always good to be sure that you are not inadvertently giving a negative. For instance, when Hoobie's thyroid problems were untreated, a pet would have been and did become a negative thing. I'll talk again how we have been making this a positive thing, and how this was further continued to grooming et.

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Communication and Consistency

In working the case of the Hoobie monster, it has occurred to me how very important consistency is to communication. I already knew this, but in a case where "good" has become bad; it brings this point even more clearly home. In fact, Hoobie will probably be an example given to new students about the importance of consistency in communication.

I use "good boy" to praise a dog for good work done. This does not mean the exercise is over, but it does mean that I am very pleased with the dog. To Hoobie, at some point "good boy" meant that the bad thing was coming. A muzzle on, meant the bad thing is coming. These are all things that needed to be reversed. Now I could have decided to simply change the verbal word "good" to something else. Only problem is, that someone who does not know Hoobie could say "good boy". It's a fairly common thing to say to a dog, even when you just pass them on the street and are smiling at them.

First in order for "good boy" not to mean that the bad thing is coming, means you don't do anything negative after the good boy OR anything perceived by the dog to be negative (and this is a moving target as we are teaching Hoobie that previously negative things are really no big deal). "Good boy" is used AFTER some of these things when they are not accompanied by growling or "blowing". So for instance, brushing Hoobie four times, Hoobie doesn't growl, and then you give a "Good Boy". I knew when Hoobie was beginning to understand this was a good thing to be told this in these consistent instances, when the eyes lit up and the ears came forward and the tail went up and wagged. At the point that these things started to happen, I knew that I had turned "good boy" back into the positive association it should have been.

Now how did this become negative in the first place? This is an extreme example involving Hoobie, and usually does not grow to this extent. This is one way something said lovingly and with the intent to be soothing can be understood by the dog as something completely different. Hoobie was thought to need injections before everything medically wrong with him was figured out. The owners decided to do this themselves at home (not bad in of itself). However, when they did this and were holding him down, they said "good boy".

Because the consistency of a positive statement was compromised, this no longer meant what the owners intended. That is because dog's don't understand English per say, but they do understand actions and what things are linked to actions. If this situation popped up for me and I was involved, I would say to use a command like down or sit, where the dog is required to do this reliably. To prep the dog for this with good training is always good, but you could do this parallel in an emergency type situation where there is no time. The point is that you want to start to prepare your dog as well as possible before they are in the situation. You want words like "good boy" and "break" to consistently and through the owner's actions mean "well done, we are proud of you" and "it's all over". You need to practice this in other situations, because obviously you aren't going to give your dogs shots over and over to practice this. This way your verbal commands start to be an assurance as to your predictability.

So again, Hoobie is at the extreme of his phobic reaction to inconsistent actions paired with verbal commands. You can see how this can happen though. I have found that Hoobie in specific responds well to short term having to deal with something, then "good boy" makes his eyes light up, and then "break" makes him dance a bit. Then you can prolong these things like brushing, toweling, nail clipping, ear cleaning, and shaving into longer and longer sessions.

I have also found this is a great way to relax Hoobie should he get fearful in situations. I am touching and manipulating his back and front legs, and sometimes this does cause Hoobie to tense up a bit. So if he hasn't growled, I will say "good boy" and then "break". Then at a later time, I will casually do it again. He has been showing that he is beginning to cope with different and unexpected much better now. It is the trust that has been developed through consistency in communication.

This will be key to teach the owners when they come back, to be very consistent in not only discipline, but in their verbal communication with him in that it is married to the actions, so he can predict the situation. The better prepared he is, the more comfortable he feels with the situation.

One last note, it goes both ways. Hoobie knows that consistently a non-growling and sitting Hoobie gets the crate door open.


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Touching and Brushing the Hoobie Monster

Hoobie has been very extreme in not wanting to be touched or petted at first (except under his own terms). I have talked about the medical issues and his early history that contributed to this sort of fall out. He likes to be petted now. He even likes it when you approach him, unless he is resting sometimes. Or guarding someone. Well, there are still circumstances, but the act of actually petting him does not seem to be a phobia anymore (with those he knows).

In fact, he is under my desk right now, getting the occasional rub on the head (in a space that he used to like to guard, from the front while in a down, are specific instances where he is not totally comfortable giving full reign). He is muzzled, because this can sometimes be a point of contention. I have been training him, however, that when he comes to me and shares a space that is mine, he has two acceptable options. He is very welcome to leave for instance, should he not want to be petted. With chronically ill animals, this is an important point, because sometimes they have a valid reason for not want to be touched. The best way for us to know that, though, is for them to give a non aggressive signal, like leaving to their "place". The teaching of it is more abstract than obedience exercises, and needs consistency to be at all clear. The second option, is to accept the petting. The unacceptable option is to blow. With a muzzle on or other equipment, it's much easier on the dog to correct them during an unacceptable incident. Hoobie still does these on occasion, but they are ending quicker and quicker, and without the build up and severity that they used to.

So I have been introducing in a few different ways. One is very related to how I got Hoobie to accept and like to be touched. When he comes over for a pat, I give him a brush instead. If he stays and growls, I brush him about five more times after the last growl and then say "break". This way he knows that I will only continue X amount of times. If he keeps returning, I know he is liking it, but testing out his new theory on what I will do. Therefore, I become predictable and more safe. Also the activity becomes predictable and safer. The reasons for not using treats have to do with his medical issues and history, and the fact that it does not work with Hoobie. Luckily, there are other things that do.

Another thing I will do, is bring the brush along when we are doing an activity that Hoobie particularly enjoys, like a swampy walk. This is a walk where Hoobie gets to immerse himself in all the watery areas in the woods like creeks and wetlands. There is nothing Hoobie likes better than this, and so I start to associate things that he was leery about with these things.

Another way I go about it, is to start making it part of a command. Sit becomes, sit and be brushed for four times. Stand, down, et all become commands that require something extra to be done to make it successful. Again, it's the predictability that helps Hoobie relax and become accepting of touch and grooming things. He probably hates the toweling off and paw handling for any length of time more than anything now. I try to make the balance of his decision to be accepting, vs this is what you are required to have done. Hoobie is a dog where it's hard to find the right balance, but when you do find it you know it. You don't want to be overly firm, and you really don't want to be not firm enough. Hoobie needs communication to be right on to improve, and that's the most challenging part of Hoobie. I will talk a little more about this tomorrow, and some examples of when the right balance is achieved.


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How To Learn About Dog Training and Behavior Modification

A couple of months ago, I received a request regarding how to find the knowledge to become a dog trainer or someone specializing in behavior modification. Part of the answer can be found in a post that I wrote last year of some very specific questions that were sent to me.

NOTE: On a side note, the young lady, addressed in last year's blog, came here for a time to observe me working dogs, and also to help with her own dogs fear issues. I am happy to say that she is now helping dogs in rescue using these techniques. She was able to foster and place a rescue this year. I am very proud of her, and she has become a friend.

Training can become a specialty or niche. You could do puppy training, obedience competition training, hunting dog training, agility training, clicker training, e-collar training, and so on. You could even choose sizes, temperaments, or breeds that you will specialize in. Training is about teaching dogs communication between the owner and the dog. So in just training, if you wished, you can limit yourself to tools, methods, and types of dogs. You could do this, and do a very good job of it, assuming you know how to weed out different dog personalities.

Behavior modification is about changing the dogs responses to different stimulus. You could specialize a bit in this by saying that you don't work with aggressive dogs or dogs over a certain size. However, in order to IMHO be successful in behavior modification, you need to be able to and seek to work with a wide variety of dogs. It's very important to know as many individual personalities of dogs, and to be able to read those dogs. You also want to soak up as much information as possible on the different methods and tools out there.

How do you expose yourself to that knowledge? I am actually trying to work on a website (with other canine professionals) that will later be a guide to both dog owners and up and coming trainers to make those resources available. I hope to do that in their geographical region. In the meantime, here is some advice based on my personal experiences and research.

In looking for places or people that may mentor you, please keep in mind the following lessons that I learned the hard way:

1. False advertising. There is no regulation in the dog training industry. Just because someone says they are the "finest training school in New England" (do a search for Rick Froton and read how they are the finest dog training school in New England?) or the "No 1 Massachusetts Dog Trainer" (per this google ad), does not make it so. I know both of these trainers, and there are others in the area that I would find more likely qualified to make this boast, and to have support of some sort of poll or vote. I would ask anyone that boasted such a thing to show me the facts, figures, and public articles to justify their boast. Realize that nothing prevents them from making such a boast. It's easy to look impressive to a beginner or a novice trainer (and the trainers sited may have impressive qualities but being number one or the finest in the geographical areas listed isn't one of them). Many times trainers won't disclose that other trainers (other than themselves) have actually helped their students full fill their goals IN ADDITION to their services. They also won't make it known how many YEARS (not weeks or months) their student may have spent with them to make the most minimal progress. Just keep in mind that these type of people are, at best, untrustworthy. Anyone who feels the need to mislead others regarding their skills rather than being objective and honest, is not the best in the area (and probably will not tell you who the others are that may help you). You might still learn from them, but you should take their boasting with a grain of salt.


2. Dog World Nepotism-The dog world can sometimes be very reliant on friendships and personal relationships. Dog trainers may recommend each other, even if they are doubtful of another's skills due to business relationships alone. Many times trainers will recommend clients that are far from them to another trainer, and both want to continue that relationship due to the fact that it builds both of their businesses. However, keep in mind, it may have to do with a personal relationship AND HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH steering you in the right direction.


3. Paid Apprenticeship Should Not Be Slave Labor-If you are paying thousands of dollars for an education, and you find yourself doing things that seem not related (or needed) for dog training, probably someone has found a way to take advantage of another paying for their apprenticeship training services. I pick up poop everyday for my own business, and if someone was paying me for an apprenticeship, I would not expect them to do things that really did not further their training knowledge. Sometimes you may be able to trade labor for knowledge, and that is different.


4. Apprenticeship Should Not Limit Your Ability to Have a Full Education-Individual dog trainers can be a bit draconian at times. This is especially true of those that may not have had a well rounded education themselves. They may have learned from someone who wanted to be THEIR only authority, and this may be how they decide to handle others that are invited to learn from them. Beware that some mentors will not want you to handle your own education. However, you should feel free to read, talk to, and learn about whatever methods you want to add to your tool belt. Just like when you go to college, you can choose your own curriculum and teachers. While you need to learn and listen to that teacher, when class is out your ideas and values are your own.


5. Shelters Tend Toward P+ Only-Every trainer uses positive reinforcement (P+) training in order to be successful. However, there are other ways to make dog training successful as well. With the push for one movement of trainers, veterinarians, and behaviorists came what I consider a marketing scheme to successfully own the brunt of the dog training industry. The only problem was, that not all dogs (while perhaps a larger portion of dogs do) don't fit the "cookie cutter" mold of training OR behavior modification. Many dog professionals not aware of what was going on, have fallen for this marketing plan. Also it's important to realize that shelters really don't, usually, have the resources to acquire a dog trainer on staff. Also the liability for a behaviorally challenged dog that could be set loose on an unknowing and unprepared public creates quite a liability. So while you will become familiar with dog personalities and handling many different dogs, that will only be a small part of your full dog training education. It can be a very rewarding and informative part of an education however. Also, there is nothing wrong with picking up luring, food/toy motivation, and those sort of methods anywhere. To do it well, you may be well advised to find a trainer that specializes AND IS successful training dogs to a standard.


6. Dog Training Schools-There are A FEW well known dog training schools that IMHO can give a good base knowledge. The cons? They are expensive, they are far away if you don't live in the geographical area, and some of their living accommodations have been reported to be gross (however, you could stay in a hotel or apartment while there). Triple Crown and National K9 are very highly talked of. Remember though, this also won't be all of your dog training education. Generally schools like this not only allow you to work and train your own dog, but also provide different dogs for you to work with! Online schools like ABC, CAS Institute, and Karen Pryor Academy are of one particular mindset of dog training. Therefore the information that you get online will not corrections, tools that are generally used, and methods beyond what that sect of dog training has approved. Whether you choose to use all tools in dog training or not, IMHO, you should learn about everything so that you can intelligently and knowledgably communicate your methods to your students.


7. Professional Organizations and How They Can Help-Professional organizations are a wondeful because they put you in contact with other professionals via online groups. There you will see a wealth of information on tools, methods, health issues, and the political issues in the dog world (or at least the ones that are not moderated and involved in blocking comments that they do not like. My professional organization is the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP). I love this organization because it is largely trainer populated, but they have many other professionals in there. Therefore there is an exchange of ideas between dog walkers, groomers, veterinarians, et al. In my opinion this is the finest or one of the finest professional canine organizations. You can become an endorsed member of the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (NADOI) once you have at least five years experience in dog obedience training (2 years as an instructor). Both of these organizations have tests that include written and demonstrated proficiency in your craft. I have lost all respect for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT). They also test their certified instructors on a strictly multiple choice test. For the same reasons that I don't care for some well known behaviorists and trainers, the organization speaks out of both sides of it's mouth instead of marrying the convictions that it obviously already has. If they would just genuinely decide on a side, I would rejoin. Profits are too much of a drive for this organization instead of the service to it's members.

8. Behaviorists-I know of a few well known behaviorists, and I don't think much of them. That being said, this does not mean that there are not talented and knowledgeable behaviorists out there. Dr. Nicholas Dodman and Ian Dunbar have peppered the industry with some of the more damaging marketing gimics and information that I know of. Dr Dodman made Prozac the miracle drug to behaviorally challenged dogs everywhere, and completely ignored that irresponsible dog owners or lack of training can make dogs crazy. Ian Dunbar should have kept to his theories about puppy school and socialization, but instead he has completely ignored the personalities of dogs that come from far different circumstances or pretends they don't exist. He created quite a rift within the Association of Dog Training Professionals with his influence. Interestingly enough, both were not born in the USA, but in countries where there are very extreme opinions on dog training and care. If you can find a behaviorist that has proven and verifiable skill in training dogs as well, I believe you would find someone worthy to study with or under.

9. Trainers-There are the good, the bad, and the ugly out there. Actually, there are the excellent out there. They are not on television shows. Most often they are old and curmugeonly:) Not very marketable in a world that likes to see physically fit and attractive people talking about any kind of skill. There are the Julia Childs of the dog training industry out there. I don't know them all. In fact I had the devil of a time finding the ones that were worth it, and I went through some of the ugly. Ones that I have found of note are (and I have not met them all, some of these are on reputation alone) Margot Woods, Vivian Bregman, Martin Deeley, George Hobson, Behesha Doan, Carolyn Scott, Joann Lawson, and Janice Gunn. It is not easy to find the trainers who really excel at their craft, but here is a place to start. Combine that with the right professional organizations, and you will start to find yourself pointed in the right directions. ***Please note most if not all of these trainers are quite experienced in behavior modification techniques.
   

What things should you cover in your training/behavior modification education?

• As much information as you can possibly learn about off leash training a regular old easy to train dog to a veifiable standard (AKC competition or some kind of measurable standard that is dependent upon an outside parties judgement). I am not talking about Rally or CGC but Novice, Open, and Utility training. At the minimum, you should be able to get a Companion Dog Title on a few dogs.
• Learn about as many methods of training as you can, and that will also begin to give you a clue as to how to modify and change behavior in a dog that is not displaying acceptable behavior.
• Dealing with behavioral issues sometimes goes outside the scope of traditional training. It's not often that you need to train a dog to accept brushing, or collar changes, or being petted from the front. Researching and learning from people that may have needed to step outside of the box, will give you ideas for the future. They may not have all the answers, but it will give you a sense of how to step outside the box for yourself in ways that make sense.
• Behaviors that are natural to a dog and acceptable in the dog world. This does not mean that we need to live with or accept them, but it gives you as a trainer an understanding of what is truly unusual and what is not.
• Body language and facial expressions in dogs. (you don't want to major in the minors with this, but you do want to be aware)
• Breed charateristics and differences. (you don't want to major in the minors with this, but you do want to be aware)
• Medical and physical issues that affect the tolerance or patience levels of dogs.
• What questions to ask to get an accurate case history on a dog.
• Things to consider and think about before taking on a case (including contracts et that need to be drafted).
• Ways to measure progress, and determine if you are going in the right direction.
• How the different ages in dogs and puppies affects them physically and mentally.
• And anything else I didn't think of LOL. There is a lot. Basically, be sure that you touch on anything related to dogs and the dog business.

What are the best ways to go about designing your educational experience?

• Identify ways to get the most hands on experience possible (safely).

• Shelters and rescues (transport, socializing, training program if they have one)
• Compete with your own dogs (if you don't have your own dog, consider that this is the best way to know day to day what it's like to live with a dog)
• Have neighbor dogs that need training?
• Advertsie that you are a beginning dog trainer that needs beginning clients. Charge accordingly and be sure to not take on anything too difficult.
• Apprenticeship or mentorship situation with experienced trainer or qualified behaviorist (see my notes on behaviorists).

• What can you afford in time, travel, and expense? There is a lot of knowledge out there, but if you go broke before you have even begun, it will do you no good in the long run. On the other hand, if you can afford time, travel, and expense there is a wealth of opportunity open to you that will jump start your experience. Research schools and opportunities well and thoroughly before writing out a check or spending time on the investment. There are some opportuntities that are well worth it (Triple Crown so I hear, some paid apprenticeships, and opportunties to go to in depth camps or informal schools).

• For those that do not have unlimited time and money, there are seminars that are very reasonably priced (ie pretty cheap considering what you get). You can do a day, a weekend or a week. If you live in the North East, I suggest that you don't wait for those seminars to come here. You may need to travel, but it may just be four or five hours to NJ or MD. Rarely do we get any seminars of any real worth IMO. I travelled to Missouri once to see a trainer that I wanted to see (Martin Deeley and George Hobson). I am hoping for a fall travel to Maryland this year to see Margot Woods again.

• Network and gather any available information from all professionals related with dogs (veterinarians, groomers, dog walkers, rescue organizations, individuals that rescue, animal control, vet technicians, professional organizations related to canine care, and your average dog owner).

• Read and watch. Books and DVDs, no matter how good, won't give you the whole story, but they will give you a lot. Professional organizations, like the IACP and APDT (couldn't find it anymore, or I would have shared the link), often have reading lists.

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
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The Resource Guarders

First, let me define what a resource guarder is in my opinion. A resource guarder is a canine, who has an overdeveloped concern that something they want is either going to be taken away OR they will not have access to it. This concern is usually expressed at first through growls, putting their paw over the object, lining objects up around them, or eyeing down an on comer. If this problem is ignored and not dealt with immediately, teeth will most likely be involved soon after. It does not take a canine who has this fear or concern long to realize an argument can be ended quickly with teeth. After the teeth are involved, bite inhibition decreases exponentially if the problem is ignored.

This concern in some cases may be very real or WAS very real at one time, for instance adult rescue dogs whose histories may be unknown. Very often, the concern isn't the reality of the situation. Sometimes, there are times where we must restrict our canine companions access to things, or need to take something away from them. For instance, I needed to remove skeletal remains of an unknown (squirrel, bat, frog, or who knows) species from my dog's mouth the other week. Okay, truth time, my client removed the remains in her bare hands from my dogs mouth (Yuck City). So there are times, for the well being and health of our canine friends that we may need to act in away other than they would like. Some dogs, like both my dogs, could care less about human hands going into their mouths.

What are some things that dogs might consider resources?

• The owner, themselves. A dog might guard that owner from their own spouse or children. Sounds funny, but if you are dealing with this problem...it's really not.
• Strange people they like in general. Actually, my dog, Jack, is the only dog I know to have done this. If he decides he likes another dog's owner, then he used to attempt to guard that owner from their own dog.
• Something (anything like a piece of paper) that another dog or human has OR is about to bend down to get. The dog in question does not need to have the item themselves, they may just be guarding it from you or another canine.
• Food
• Toys
• Rocks
• Dead Things
• Favorite animal friend
• Things like seaweed that are not really food, but dogs know they can ingest.
• Laundry
• Rooms
• Crate
• Vehicle Interior
• Doors
• Tissues (what is it with Springers and tissues?) or paper products like towels in general
• Dog beds or matts
• And everything else that I have forgotten
  

This condition can come about due to many variables in a dog's life. They are not only the sole property of adult rescue dogs whose history may be unknown, believe it or not. Unfortunately, this can happen when responsible owners adopt a puppy. Here are some things that I have found make up the perfect storm for a resource guarder:

• Serious medical issues early on that make certain resources far to important to a young puppy. One of my client's dogs, Cerber a handsome GSD, had elbow problems and surgery starting before he was six months old. He was regulated to a pen area, and had just a few 15 minute potty breaks a day due to the healing process. He had both his elbows done, so it was closer to a year before he was able to do anything resembling what other dogs can do. He seriously did not want people taking either his food or peanut butter kong. You know this sort of thing is a judgement call. I believe the right judgement is for the sanity of your young puppy that he has something to do if he has this issue. However, be aware of the behavioral problems that may develop so that you are prepared.
• A first time owners' attempts to be sure their dog is not a resource guarder, but are done a bit too vigourously!!! Then what happens, is the dog gets a very real concern that things are going to be taken away willy nilly. Dogs need relaxation and breaks, and overdoing something can be a serious mistake that may in fact bring on the behavior that you didn't want in the first place.
• If a dog has a "ingesting" problem, and certain things needed to be kept from him/her; this can later manifest itself into resource guarding. My dog, Jack, had this very problem. Some dogs just get fixated on eating things they shouldn't.
• Prior abuse or neglect can cause this problem. If the dog ever had to fight for their food or could not count on food being given at all. In some dogs, this can cause a problem later on, if the dog gets out of this unfortunate place and into a good home. Of course in the original home, it will most likely be a problem, but neglectful and irresponsible owners won't notice or care!!
• A puppy that was separated from their litter a bit too early OR the mother did not nurse them, could have quite a few issues including resource guarding. So just be aware, if you decide to take a dog from a breeder and this has been disclosed, that you are going to need to be prepared and start a plan quite early to combat issues like this. Likewise a puppy from a shelter that has the same issues. It's great to rescue these puppies, just be aware that they often have special needs.
• I will commit the wost blasphemy here, and say it might just be part of their personal makeup. Humans all have unique personalities. There are some things that annoy us individually that do not annoy others (the sound of scratching annoys the heck out of me). Dogs are just as individual as we are:) I am not convinced that my dog's, Jack's, low tolerance for dogs being around "his" stuff isn't just what makes Jack, well Jack. Even in Jack's case, he is much more tolerant now, but we keep an eye out for the patience level waning. He's not thrilled about humans necessarily taking his stuff either, but he has a more infinite patience level for that.
• Insert here the infinite number of other things that I have not thought of yet.

A training and behavior modification plan is, of course, the best action in these cases. Some cases will be much simpler than others. It really seems to depend on how long the initial behavior was either allowed to continue OR the correct solutions were not found right away. Sometimes an owner is working diligently on a problem, even with the help of professionals, but the wrong answers and direction were given. This is not to say that every dog can be saved, and there is always the perfect answer. However, the vast majority of dogs that have ended up in the general dog owning public are able to be greatly improved upon in their ability to adapt to living with the human population as a pet. Children can be the great variable in this situation, in that you would hope a parent would never endanger their children no matter how much they may love the dog. If I don't take on a resource guarding case, it is normally because I don't think the children in the family should be exposed to the dog. Again, some problems are bigger than others, and some resource guarding dogs have a fairly simple issue that does not cause immediate endangerment.

So what sort of things would I expect to hear as options in a training and behavior modification plan for a dog whose primary problem is resource guarding:

1. The trainer should be interested in a detailed history of the dog with a strong emphasis on any medical history.
2. An obedience training plan is a must. The dog must be able to be communicated with. Yes, additional things that do not need to be done for just obedience training will need to be implemented, but it will be all for nothing without a strong partnership and communication developed to support the progress. (Can't emphasize enough the importance of a really, really well trained place, stay, and come command. These are stationary and movement commands that really really help with a dog that has aggressive responses to situations, and helps them learn the alternate things that can be done.)
3. The balance of discipline, trust, and respect should be talked about. With a dog like this, you need to have trust for the dog to relax around you should they have a treasured thing, which they have been allowed to have. Discipline is the form of communication that says there are some behaviors that absolutely will not be tolerated. Respect comes from the understanding of the working relationship between you and your dog. I didn't mention love. Why? Because I have yet to meet the dog that did not love and adore their owner no matter what. The actions of resource guarding have nothing to do with a dog not loving you.
4. Options options options. How will the trainer make this work? How will they measure their progress? What will tip them off to the fact that it's time to try something new or change up something? The number of tools, methods, experience, and knowledge of very many different things stacked the odds in favor of your individual dog finding the right mix.
5. So many new trainers or trainers that do not work with resource guarding or aggressive dogs THINK they have seen every personality in dog training. You are going to want to know that your trainer has seen a wide variety of personalities, and that they are continually surprised and awed by what they can see. I have had my easiest and hardest dogs this year alone. This isn't to say I haven't had many a hard dog in the past, because I most definately have. In six short years, I have lost track of the hundreds of dogs that I have seen. I know that owners are sometimes not exaggerating in any form or fashion what they are actually seeing. Experience will give you a trainer that knows the behavioral bends that a dog can take, and will let them know that they are not going to know that dog (necessarily) in the first few weeks.
6. Management vs training. What do I mean by that? Well first of all, I firmly believe that any good training is bound to involve behavior modification on some level. Training is a method to communicate and set up a partnership with your dog. Behavior modification is the change in a behavior that is not wanted in the human household (and is a reasonable expectation) to one that is more acceptable. Management is the means by which to keep people and other living beings safe. Crates, muzzles, when to allow the dog near people, and managing the environment are all ways to manage or stack the odds for safety. Management normally includes things that you eventually do not want to need to count on OR you want to eliminate them all together OR you want to have to use them in very limited and short term ways. In any aggression or such case that I can think of, there is going to be a degree of management discussed.
7. And everything else that I have forgotten to mention.

So know that this is a serious problem. Every dog does not have to love to share, BUT do not let serious behavioral issues manifest and fester. You may be faced with a much larger problem down the road if you do not find the appropriate and working answers quickly.

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Updates....

So sorry that I haven't published for awhile. We had this big reunion party that we were planning, and executed...let's just say I no longer remember what it was I did with my time before the party LOL. Unlike my husband, I didn't have vacation the previous week, and have been enjoying a very busy business this summer, despite the state of the economy.

Then a bit of recovery period was needed. So what has been going on here:

Hoobie: Hoobie is staying with us through August. He needed to have a biopsy while in my care, and while his owners came up to visit and get a taste for handling him. He regressed a bit after the biopsy, but I am happy to say we have him largely back and moving onto more things. He is a very detailed dog, so these things are going to sound ridiculous as a goal to any dog trainer LOL. Collars on and off without taking a fit, being brushed while not taking a fit, nail clippings---while not taking a fit, not guarding the back seat of the car, still working on the food resource guarding (this remains the most difficult) and toy resource guarding (not so much except to hand him the toy, this is when he gets most aggressive otherwise he will drop it so you can pick it up), not panicking when strangers are around, and on and on. Oh, and all things related to grooming (ear cleaning, clippers).

There is the most fun loving friendly dog in here, but I would say this is the most phobic dog that I have ever seen. It's very very easy to loose his trust for a bit. The fact that he is allergic to everything, has thyroid, and a chronic stomach problem not so helpful. He rallies though. For instance today he had the most fun for an hour or two or racing through the woods and swamp with everyone else. A Springer is a sight to behold in the wild woods!!!

Magoo: Doing wonderfully in his training of course. Surprisingly, this is Hoobie's best friend as far as playing goes. Magoo and Hoobie race through the woods and swamp together. Very, very opposite dogs. Magoo is willing to please always whether it benefits him or not. Hoobie is only willing to please if it benefits him, however, that does not mean he's not a friendly and loving dog. Hoobie is very complicated in every way, and Magoo is very simply. Magoo is WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get). Hoobie's system is complicated and needs frequent repair. Hoobie is super smart, which can either make him easy or super hard to train LOL. Magoo has smarts, but he is not super smart, making him very easy to train. Magoo trains with whatever. Pets, treats, toys, play, or nothing; Magoo is willing. Hoobie is food intolerant, a resource guarder, but also works best for fun or exercise and of course the outdoors.

Magoo is going to be a dog that you never need to worry about in any situation. Hoobie is a dog that his owners will always need to be aware of his body language. They are both great pals. Go figure!!

Leon the Boxer: Leon knows how to heel now, it's necessary for his owners to take the lessons now as well. Looks like this might work out next week. Leon is a boxer that is just too eager to play with other dogs, while having just a bit of a worry about what the other dog might do. His is really the sweetest thing with everyone, and when he knows the other canines, it looks like he is a friend for life. I expect that he will have many new friends in his future, and the rough edges will smooth out with his owners careful care and training. I am not sure that he will ever be very happy with dogs that growl at him as a greeting at first, but he may get the hang of ignoring that as long as his owners always keep him safe. When you get a rescue, you don't ever know everything that happened in his past, and he may have had a few rough encounters with other dogs in the past. Many dogs enjoy coming here, as they know this is pretty much a safe place for socializing with other dogs.

Leon My Doberman: Looks like his knee is recovering, and it may have been another injury other than his ACL that was bothering him. So thankfully, we don't need to consider bringing him for surgery at the moment, plus he is able to enjoy the rest of his summer with supervision and an eye on his activity level.

Leon took his very first watery adventure in the swamp lands today. I was very impressed. I think it finally dawned on him that the water really is only so deep. I hope one day that he warms up to swimming!!

Jack My Doberman: I hate to even jinx myself by saying this. Finally, I think I have come up with the formula for Jack to enjoy quite a bit of other dogs being here. Ironically, it has also affected the way I operate with the dogs. Jack likes a good two sessions of hard play during the day with the dogs he likes. Those are most of the dogs here. The exceptions to that rule seem to be Petey, Magoo, Logan, Teddy (who is coming in a few days), and I am sure there are a few others that I did not think of.

Molly: Not a current dog, but one that was here a few years ago. She turned out so well, that her owners are actually about to pull the trigger on dog number two!! They enjoyed the training so much, that dog number two will also be training with me. No better compliment than that. They also let me know that Molly is enjoying another off leash summer on the beach as a good little citizen.

Brujo: Having an excellent if stinky time here. My friend brought his dog who had just been skunked up on vacation. He did let me know of the incident before hand. Brujo was just dashing through the creeks here with his buds (Oona, Hoobie, Magoo, Leon, Jackie, and Lucey). Brujo is also adept at opening just about any door in our house with the exception of the outside doors (unless the front door is open to the screen door) and the door to or from the mudroom. He is very talented, and serves as a warning as to try not to have lever doors when you have a smart dog.

Oona: Oona's owners are welcoming a pink and furless new family member to their pack. A ten pound boy has arrived, and Oona is enjoying her time here as her owners concentrate on their new arrival. Oona has fallen for Minny Manny, the chihuahua and pug mix that comes here to play. She also likes Brujo, but prefers the smaller Minny Mann. Poor Bru Bru.

Oona also has a very maternal side, as does Lucey below. It's so cute to see her try and groom little Minny Mann from head to toe.

Minny Manny: Still remains the boss of the pack when he comes. For a dog that's like three pounds, he is quite impressive as he plays with dogs that are 100 plus. He is also not afraid to tell them to back off. He shares the love connection with Oona. Everyone loves Minny for some reason, even though he can be a bit bossy at times. He's Hoobie's favorite to hang with as well.

Lucey: Our Westie girl still remains a little spit fire and hunter. She is the perfect mix of ruff and tumble, and lady like demureness. Somehow she pulls this off!! Lucey is also very maternal. She is so patient with the big ruffian boys that we have here.


Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com