Dog Training Choices-10 Considerations

In dog training, there is no one size fits all.   How you go about training your dog should be based on many factors and judgements.   Here are just a few things to think about:

1. Your dog's general temperament which will encompass many things.   Think of whether you have learned that your dog is fearful, confident, shy, bold, friendly, leery, reactive, mellow, and so on.   Think of the specific situations (or general situations) you may see these things play out.
2. Do you or your dog have any food allergies or other allergies that may interfere with some forms of training?
3. Is your dog pretty easy in most everyday situations or are there some situations that are cause for concern?
4. How old is your dog or puppy?   Puppy training is almost always much different than training a more mature adult dog.
5. How healthy is your dog?  Do they have any physical disabilities or problems that may interfere with some methods of training?
6. How healthy are you, the dog owner?   Do you have any physical disabilities or other problems that may interfere with some methods of training?
7. What are your goals with your dog?  Think of such things like if you want an obedient companion, a sports dog (obedience, agility, protection sports), an outdoor adventure companion, a companion your whole family can enjoy, stopping your dog from aggression issues, and so on.
8. Are your goals with your dog realistic as far as matching their temperament or where they are today?  In other words, are there things that need to be done first? 
9. Think about budget, but also realize that you get what you pay for.   It may be more to your advantage to really invest in your dog training if you have the money or the need to get something under control.  Or maybe, you just really want to understand a lot about training going forward.
10. What kind of time can you really invest in the training?   It may be easier on you to have a trainer start your dog off first, and then train the dog owner later, depending on the situation.

Analyzing these things before starting to pick out a training program can really help you whittle down your choices and options.   Every dog and owner team is different and has different needs and lifestyles.  While some dog training may be similar somewhat across the board, generally there are tweaks and accommodations for the different needs of the individual team.   There may be one trainer that can customize their training to your needs, or there may be a trainer who trains in a special niche that speaks to you and your needs.

What are the answers to the above items for you and your dog?   In order to get the best training for your team, it takes more work than just selecting the dog trainer closest to you that is the cheapest.   Remember, this is going to be your cherished canine companion for the rest of their lives.   Invest in making that the most enjoyable and fulfilling relationship for the both of you that it can be.

Mannerly Mutts is a dog training company in York Maine.   Call or e-mail us with your dog training needs.

  

Why Do Dog Trainers Cost So Much? (Republished Article)

Sometimes luck comes into your life, and you get something for free. There are many good reasons why a dog may be free, but a human shouldn't NEED for the dog to be free for financial reasons. There are many reasons to pay for the dog you need. These reasons include needing a specific dog due to allergies, temperament requirements, lifestyle, shedding, frail owner, active owner, specific job, stable physical construction, and so on.

In any case, the least of your expenses is going to be the adoption fee, even if the dog comes from a breeder.   Proper care of a dog includes feeding, grooming, exercising, veterinary care, your time and patience, and (in a perfect world) training.  Training will actually help reduce your veterinary care by allowing your dog to respond to commands, thus avoiding hazards.

In the dog training world, there is a lot of free advice out there. This is given by professionals, by non professionals, and maybe even by anyone who has never owned never mind trained a dog:) Or maybe they have had the perfect "no issue", "bomb proof" dog. Perhaps you have a "no issue" "bomb proof" dog as well, and there is not much you are going to do with your dog to make things worse.

Households do exist out there, where free advice can make things worse. Dog training done well, is a skill (some might say an art form). It's a learned skill that has taken hours on hours of practice. For a professional dog trainer, this should mean hours and hours with many dogs that are not the trainer's own dogs!! These should also be random dogs not trained only because the trainer or behaviorists finds them interesting, but trained towards a goal and IMO a standard. When presented with "the problem" or "the issue", trainers who have studied hard know that (unless this is a bomb proof or no issue dog---in which case you are probably not getting the call) communication and a dialogue of skills or commands are needed to begin to address the problem.

A typical jumping problem that does not respond well to ignore it OR stand like a tree, usually could use a stay command. In order to have a stay command, you need to have a sit command. In order for the stay to be useful, training around distance, movement, and distraction are needed. Not something you are likely to learn in a quickly typed comment OR in a single lesson. Owners, being beginners without X many years in handling and training dogs to a measurable standard, need practice on things like leash handling, timing, body posture, and learning to relax and loosen up. As with any skill, these things aren't learned in an hour session, but upon repetition of practicing the skills CORRECTLY. In a lesson for an individual, what is happening is the trainer is coaching the owner on how to train their dog.

Dog training is a business. A business that most of us adore and love no end, but this is not a hobby. This is a profession. If if dog training were free or at a minimal cost, dog trainers would not be able to afford to be dog trainers. However, this is still not why a dog trainer's fee is above minimum wage.

Okay, so why are the fees 60.00 to 100.00 per hour?  There is a reason that you are  paying well above minimum wage to a respected professional dog trainer.

TIME AND EXPENSE OF EDUCATION: A whole other debate in the dog world is how you go about getting your education. Someday, I will tackle that subject in an in depth article about that. The talented and knowledgeable dog trainers out there have put significant time and expense in acquiring their education. A trainer should not have just trained their own dog, and then had a vision one day to put their shingle out. Putting out the shingle should have had work, sweat, money, time, travel, and some pretty hard knocks behind it. This knowledge is a combination of learned by the guidance of many mentors and learned by just the sheer amount of time that training was practiced. If you have a trainer who is further educated in aggression or behavioral problems, and has had a proven success rate, then that is a bit of help that is hard to find. Education is not just a one time thing for a dog trainer. Education for a dog trainer is something that is acquired every year by pushing themselves out there beyond the safety of their prior knowledge.

TIME OF LESSON PLAN CREATION AND FOLLOW UP:  Before the lesson, I prepare and look at my notes as to what was done the last lesson. I create the lesson plan for that day with the individual team in mind. After the lesson, I send my clients the notes on what we did, the very detailed directions, and specific notes on special problems or issues observed during the lesson. I tell my clients to call me if they have a problem during the week. I would rather iron out the problems so that they can practice correctly in between, rather than play catch up on the next lesson. Therefore, my minimum time on one lesson can be three hours and more.

TIME AND EXPENSE OF FACILITY AND CLEANING: Oh yes, dog training businesses have overhead costs!! Some operations even include the cost of the equipment in their fees. There is the cost of maintaining inside and outside practice areas, disinfecting, clean water buckets available at all times, waste bags, pooper scoopers, trash cans in areas, solutions to take care of accidents on the site immediately, electronic cleaning equipment, building costs, depreciation costs, insurance costs, jumps, articles, fences, staff, and it keeps going. If the trainer is traveling, there are all the vehicle costs that go along with it. (tolls, meters, gas, insurance, repairs, parking, maintenance)

TIME AND EXPENSE OF TRAVEL: First of all, it's not just that hour that you are paying for.  If there is a good reason, I will go to to my clients (within reasonable distance) for their lessons. The time and expense of travel is something to consider. Also, so many owners are not there for the appointment, late for the appointment, or not prepared for the appointment when the trainer gets there. It can also that no homework has been done, so when the trainer gets there for the appointment, it needs to be cancelled before any further "new" work can be done.

CREATIVITY AND PROBLEM SOLUTION: The above things lend to the creativity and efficient problem solving of a professional. Due to the time spent in the field with a variety of sizes, temperaments, and breeds; a Professional Dog Trainer can get the job done efficiently and effectively. The investment in the dog trainer will also erase the need to find a professional in the future to solve the same problem. However, maybe that Professional Dog Trainer will inspire you to advance your knowledge as well. A Professional Dog Trainer will have improved the situation so that your relationship with your canine companion is much easier and more enjoyable. This will be true for the both of you.

The dog training profession is a profession just like any other. Yes, most of us love all dogs and want to do what we can to help the dog/canine team exist a happy, healthy, and safe existence for the rest of their lives. However, that does not mean we do not need to charge a reasonable fee for our services to cover our costs.


http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Before Even Thinking About Biking With Your Dog...

Biking is not an activity that dog owners "need" to do or "have to" learn. I d This is something that I do with my dogs for the enjoyment.   However, if you don't do this safely, it will be a much less enjoyable activity.   This activity needs to be safe for you AND your dog.

So before you even think of biking with your dogs, consider these tips and safety measures:

1. Concrete, pavement, and cars can kill you or your dog. (not while biking) I missed a step one day to the mudroom and fell onto our concrete floor. My whole chin was one large lump and bruise, I felt quite fortunate to have hit there instead of my head (where a concussion may have rendered me unconscious and then dead). I was also very grateful to have not shattered my jaw. Now consider this power in a scenario where you may be propelled forward. (see number 3)
2. Dirt roads and trails contain rocks, which can kill you if you strike the right body part on them. (see number 3)
3. Wear a helmet on your bike with or without a dog. (See number 1)
4. You have no business even thinking about biking with your dog, unless you know how to train solidly for basic obedience. Or are training with someone who will teach this solidly. The reason for this being a dog left to his own does not know the danger caused by running UNDER the bikes wheels or lunging at a squirrel.
5. Prepare, prepare, prepare before mounting your bike with your dog in tow. I usually start with heeling my dog next to a shopping cart at Petco for instance to get them used to it in a fun environment. I heel them next to me walking my bike. I do lots of these things before I mount the bike with my dog, including making sure that they know basic obedience very very well. You will also want an emergency sit, auto sits when you stop the bike.
6. Always consider the safety of the general public around you. This article link is one example of what could happen.
7. Flexi leads are very likely to get wrapped up in gears (and there should be no need as your dog should be heeling next to you IMO ). This is why I do this on my strong, sturdy leather lead. Note this is not to keep my dog with me when he pulls, as I do not allow my dogs to pull when in a heel. It's to keep the loose leash from being frail and thin enough to wrap around the gears.
8. (related to number five) Just in general with biking, I tend to not wear sneakers with any laces that could become untied and wind up in the gears. Some lighter baggier kinds of clothes can get caught in them as well.
9. Do NOT attach leash to bike. Better to hold the leash (and see why 4 is very important) in an accordian style, in case your dog stops to pee (seee number 10) so you can quickly drop the leash, stop, and call your dog to you when he/she is done.
10. Remember dogs may have to stop and pee, and may not be able to tell you how...other than by stopping suddenly. (see number 9)
11. Keep in mind that your dog should only go at their comfortable pace.
12. (related to 11) If you want to multi task and exercise, put the bike on the highest tension level possible, rather than overtaxing your dog with speed.
13. This is a group/partnership event, you must always be aware and look out for your dog and others.

I am sure that I missed a lot more, but these are things to think about before even considering biking with your dog:) One can always bike without a leash with their well trained dog. I prefer a leash on my dog whenever I am around vehicles that are moving quickly. When I am riding around my house, my dogs don't have leashes on, and are free to decide to follow or not follow. Many times I don't have them in a heel if it's just on my own property. Still, you will want to start out so that your dogs are aware that they shouldn't run into wheels, jump on you, et. I probably could have added a few more for this scenario.

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

How to try to protect yourself before, during, and after a dog attack

The events on July 30^th at Ellis Park (off of Short Sands) in York Beach Maine set into motion by the actions or lack of action by Piscataqua Obedience Club have made me consider the other side of the coin.  How do you keep yourself and your dog as safe as is possible from a dog attack?   I am by no means an expert, but I have some ideas about this due to my profession as the owner and trainer for Mannerly Mutts Dog Training.

1. Be aware of your surroundings when out and about with dogs. Things can happen unexpectedly and quickly.  If you are at a dog event, do not assume you are safe from the dogs in the ring.   You may want to inquire about what their safety protocols are, and expect an answer that does not sound like a brush off.  (i.e. first aid kits, volunteers and helpers on the look out, how information would be collected).
2. If you see a dog eyeballing you or your dog or you feel at all uncomfortable, remove yourself, your family, and your dogs out of the area. (Also see point 4 if any leash laws are being broken)
3. Do not assume that dogs on leash are not a threat.   The human at the other end of the leash may have no control or negates their responsibility for control.  If you see a large uncontrolled dog on a flexi leash, leave the area.  In some areas, flexi leashes may be against the animal control ordinance.
4. Do use your animal control department.   If you see someone ignoring the leash law, the best thing you can do for everyone is to report it (including their dog BTW).   Law enforcement does not tend to get serious about this until they have a few reports, so do not wait to report an offence.
5. Before a dog is coming up at you:
1. Do not make eye contact.   Look to the side.  Do not to be at all a threat.
2. Position your body so you are not straight on.
3. Do not run.   This will elicit a chase.
4. Do not approach the dog, if you feel the dog is a danger to you.   Even a dog that is simply frightened will most likely bite you if cornered.
5. Try and locate a place you may be safe, and attempt to go there slowly.
6. If a dog is coming at you:
1. You can offer up a piece of clothing instead of your arm.
2. If they are already in chase mode, feel free to get quickly to an area of safety if possible.
3. I step in front of my dog, and put my dog in a command if I think I can stop the dog.
4. Use any furniture, gates, cars, et to get away from the dog and put something in between you and the dog.
5. If you have a small dog, be aware that a larger dog may come up after the small dog if you pick them up and hold them.  
6. In some instances, you may want to drop the leash on your dog so they can get away or defend themselves.
7. There are tools that you can bring with you on walks.   These include canes, blow horns, sprays, an extra leash, and extra clothing.
8. Try and remain standing, and protect vital body areas.
9. If you find yourself on the ground, ball up in the fetal position and cover your face head and neck areas as best as possible.
7. If a dog fight or attack has occurred:
1. Do not put your hands in the middle of it especially near their heads.   One or both of them are in panic and defence mode.
2. If you can get the back legs of a dog (and someone else another) grab these.   However, pulling them might do more damage to the other dog if they are gripped in a mouth.   As long as they are not damaging the airways, wait until they release.
3. Tail grabs are also another option in these circumstances, if the dog has a tail and you can’t get their back legs.
4. Using a piece of furniture or another implement to disengage the fighting party(ies).
8. How you handle it after the attack has occurred:
1. If you are at a public event, immediately stop the event by whatever means necessary.   Be sure that everyone there knows that you and/or your dog are hurt.   (This is how I will be handling this sort of thing in the future if I or someone else is hurt).
2. See if anyone at a public event has film of any part of what happened.
3. If you have a camera, make a video record of everyone there.    If you were lucky enough to get the actual attack on film, be sure you don’t erase that.
4. If you are severely hurt, dial 911 if possible or have someone there do it, first and foremost.
5. Get the owner’s info, the dog’s info, and any info on any witnesses around you.  Be sure you get access to rabies certificates and if possible any insurance the owner of the attacking dog has.  If you have been severely injured, see if someone else on scene can stop the person from leaving and get their info.
6. Do contact the police and report the incident.   The owner of the attacking dog is most likely required to report any incident involving their dog as well, depending on the animal control laws where they live.
7. Go to your doctor or vet to have any and all injuries checked out.
8. Be sure that you hold the owner of the attacking dog liable for damages.

It is ALWAYS the responsibility of the dog owner to keep the public safe from their dog.   The following are not excuses that the victim of a dog attack should accept:

1. You were jogging.
2. Your or your child was being loud and screaming.
3. Your dog was barking.
4. You went to pet the dog (Each dog owner should be managing the space for their dog.   Unless you attacked the dog after being told not to approach, this is not acceptable)
5. You were riding your bike.
6. You were playing with your dog.
7. You were walking your dog by their house (while still being on the road).
8. You were eating something.
9. You were drinking something.
10. Your dog was eating or drinking something.
11. You wear perfume or cologne.
12. Their dog is a “working dog” and these things happen.
13. You are wearing a baseball cap, wearing a uniform, have a beard, are bald, and on and on.

Unless you intentionally and maliciously provoked and/or attacked the dog (and that includes not listening to the owner to leave their dog alone), then YOU are not at fault if another dog has attacked YOU or YOUR DOG.   Not ever.

The good news is these are actually pretty rare when you look at the population of dogs and dog owners.   It is the few irresponsible dog owners that make most of these situations happen.  Occasionally it was an undiagnosed medical or mental issue with the dog, that the owner did not see coming.  Often it involves a lack of socialization, training, and proper management of someone’s dog and their environment (meaning they manage who can and can not see their dog and what situations they put their dog in).

Also most people and organizations are more than happy to take responsibility for unfortunate events that may occur on their watch.   It is regretful that I know now of at least one obedience club that does not take their responsibilities for public safety seriously.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com

http://www.mainedogtrainer.com

http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Retail Chain Store Training

One stop shopping is so convenient for so many things. You go to your mall and you can pick up living room furniture, clothes, food gift items, and tires for your car. The supermarkets can provide you with groceries, banking services, non-prescription drug items, the business community has caught on to this trend and the synergies developed that drive different business with different products or the one business that provides all products.

But does this work for veterinary services and training programs? With some exceptions, as there always are, in my opinion the answer is no.

The reason for this is that the large retail chains do not want the best veterinary clinic or the best dog-training program that they can provide. These corporations simply want you to come into their stores and buy more products. Of course these other services do provide income for them, but that is not why they are there. They do not hire the best veterinary talent, behaviorists, vet techs, or trainers; they can to provide these services. They hire people that can stick to a certain formula that provides the most revenue for their retail establishment. The classes are geared so that everyone was aggressively encouraged to buy things like five treats, various toys, their leashes and collars, et no matter the supplies that were already purchased at home. Each class is set up to basically go over at least one other group of products each time, and the trainers are coached to direct you to those products at the conclusion of each class.

For instance, you will graduate from the beginner or basic program to the advanced no matter what unless your dog openly and publicly attacks another dog or person. This is especially so if you have already bought the next available course. I know this because I trained at one of these stores, and was appalled at both the advanced classes and the “graduation” ceremony. To see the difference, go to a dog show sometime, and see what even the Novice AKC A dogs can do to pass (not win but pass). This should be the end result of a beginner or maybe an intermediate course. The advanced course at these retail establishments can generally not heel with loose leash, but are counseled to have a spoon with peanut butter ready. In every case I saw, the dog was either just interested in the spoon while not heeling, or was interested in the rest of the store while not heeling. Walking your dog on a loose leash is the least that you want to get out of your training program, and in general they can’t even deliver that on a large scale.

Check out trainers advanced classes in the area that are not retail pet supply chains. How do these measure up? Again, there are some exceptions and some fine trainers at these retail establishments, but I would estimate that less than 10% of these trainers would get you where you want to go. Covered in another article upcoming, they also only offer one method of training that is “friendly” for customers to see when they come into the store. That method and those tools may not be appropriate for your dog. However, if you choose to train there, your options are going to be severely limited for training.

If this is your first dog or your first dog in awhile, sub standard training methods may seem perfectly acceptable. There is the social component that is nice, and so what if my dog doesn’t really learn to stay or learn to sit except when he wants to? It may be hard to imagine without having experienced it, but your life and your dog’s life is so much easier and has more freedom with training. It is a pleasure to be able to take your dog almost anywhere, do errands with your dog, go on vacation with your dog, as long as he/she is trained. Far less pleasurable is traveling, visiting relatives, or going on vacation with an untrained dog. Your dog will enjoy more freedom in the end, and he/she will finally understand what it is you want him/her to do with the proper training and training program. Good, solid training is great for all parties in the transaction.

These retail situations may be good if you are accomplishing training privately already, and not really looking for guidance on the training portion. Beware though, only certain equipment is allowed in the retail store environment and these do not include prong collars, e-collars, or even metal training or choke collars. To be able to work around distractions where your dog is accepted as part of the environment is valuable. Dog clubs can also provide this atmosphere for you with a higher level of training, although these may use only positive only methods also.

Don’t sell yourself or your pooch short. Find a trainer whose major source of income is training not pet supplies. If you live in the York ME area, give me a call.

Science and Dog Training

Like statistics, science can either be a helpful tool in the right setting, or a tool of manipulation. Scientists and veterinarians are not God and are not ordained with skills beyond their training set by divine intervention. Some veterinarians are occasionally wrong in their diagnosis. Like a veterinarian that "diagnosed" a client's dog with "rage syndrome". Rage syndrome is not the result of predictable circumstances, but is the result of a seizure like disorder which may have a trigger (light ET) such as epilepsy. The "scientific" diagnosis was to put this dog down, because behavior is not affected by age or discomfort either, according to their now FIRED veterinarian..

So they found a trainer. I suggested that in addition to training, after observing their dog, they find another vet. Teeth infection, ear infection, and bladder infection had made Hannah decreasingly patient with her aging sister (they had lived together since puppies until their then 8 years of age). Also Kate had known hip problems. Hannah used to jump on Kate to play, and this had become painful to Kate in old age. Normally bomb proof Kate would snark at her sister, and the more "dominant" dog who had no training, Hannah sought to teach her a lesson.
Three weeks later the girls went home. Six months later with frequent contact and assignments, the girls were harmonious in the house again and the owners sent pictures with the girls out, wine in the owners hands, guests there, and smiles all around. It's been three years now, and the girls and family are living happily ever after.

Science is used as some fancy term, as if we are talking rocket science here. The meanings of facial expressions in dogs and body language is, of course useful to the trainer. You can major in the minors though, if you don't learn to take the dog into account as a whole of what they are telling you. This may be skewed if they are a different breed, worked in a different purpose, or were not socialized around other dogs. These signals can become confusing if you use this as your total understanding of behavior, which is why it's somewhat frustrating that the "academics" out there are not necessarily the best and brightest minds in dog training. In other words, they don't necessarily do anything all that worth while with the actual dogs and training. However, they think they should talk on it, rather than stick to their specialty or admit that perhaps they are out of their element when talking about the real living thing that is in front of them, and is not a theory. It would be rare to find one where you can bring a dog to work with, they are either not there in attendance or provided for you.

Science also takes credit for positive training. Positive training is both a part of "traditional training" and "balanced training". Motivation has also always been a part. The big "gift" of science has been "clicker" training. The traditional clicker was "good boy". There has been no "new aged" and "enlightened" modifications in training, only stealing, re labeling, branding, and marketing for trainers who at first sought only to differentiate themselves from the rest of the market. This has later become a very ugly trend that is now pushing not only the ban of equipment, the ban of breeds, the euthanasia of dogs with very easily fixed behavior problems, and the push for training to now only be "prescribed" by phds. In other words; veterinarians, biologists, or behaviorists only will be able to tell you how to train your dog.

We could talk about Skinner vs Pavlov. Operant conditioning vs Classical conditioning dog training 101. It's not terribly complicated science as science goes. You can add something to increase behavior. You can withdraw something to increase behavior. You can add something to decrease behavior. You can withdraw something to decrease behavior. These are the basics of a training plan. 1) Positive Reinforcement 2) Negative Reinforcement 3) Positive Punishment and 4) Negative Punishment. Some trainers wish to train primarily or only (and this is a challenge) with Positive Reinforcement or one quadrant of learning. Which is fine, right up until the point that you need to debase others in order to justify that decision.

In the meantime, newbie trainers can get sucked into the void and drink the Koolaide early on for the cult like sect. Luckily, most people that e-mail me with questions on who to see and where to go for seminars, are already aware of what is out there. They also have limited funds to spend on their education. If they want to find the animal rights activists and purely positive politic dog trainer fanatics, they only need go as far as their computer. That is pretty easy to do. By the time they realize they are not seeing what they want to, results by any method, they start looking around and wondering where the trainers are that produce results. Well the answer is, unfortunately, most of them do not live in New England. They live in Maryland, Florida, Georgia, Missouri, and due to the cult like climate here, rarely bother to come up this way. Even the closed minded cult like trainers neither live around here or come here that often.

How did it get like this? Money. There is lots of money to be made if you are good at branding something. Petco and Petsmart has figured this out. All in one shopping includes pet food, toys, leashes, collars, e-collars (they sell but don't agree with???), metal training collars, veterinarian services, and grooming. Tufts veterinarian behaviorists have figured out ways to get trainers to refer to them, and not follow up on what happened because they "know better" and their is (sound of heavenly music) science involved. There are also drugs involved. Vets are so fed up with trying to explain to some that they have a perfectly normal dog, prescriptions are written out for problems such as crate training or separation anxiety or simply being a dog that is not being exercised enough. Some of these are worked on very "scientifically" by the use of fax only evaluation, rather than go through the necessity of actually seeing the dog or what is going on.

And how easy is it to brand "fun"? It's not that traditional training isn't or can't be positive and fun, it's that a fanatical group figured out how to pull language away to put themselves up as the "new age" authority, simply by playing with marketing. The trainers who were simply training dogs were not concerned THEN with this trend. However, it has morphed now into an all out attack against dogs basically.

Am I saying all positive trainers are evil or incredibly naive? No, but I am saying that I can spot nonsense when I read and see it from the sect of cult like fanatics. Like a trainer that says she respects traditional trainers, and then writes that she does positive reinforcement only because when "you know better you do better." (k-9solutionsdogtraininginc.blogspot.com) Or when Truly Dog Friendly claims not be an organization or one that bans tools, when all you have to do is see the list of members and the articles that they promote banning tools. That if you have a niche market or talent, you normally don't need to convince people to follow your way only be debasing other methods or trying to ban training tools. There are clicker trainers or rewards based trainers out there that do not have a need to do this. I will see them, and not the ones that align themselves with such fanatical groups as Truly Dog Friendly or the No Shock Collar Coalition (http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/blog/?page_id=2 scroll down).

Professional organizations such as APDT, Association of Pet Dog Trainers, like the money and enthusiasm of the "fun" way to train as well. However, they don't so much like loosing results orientated dog trainers that may be using equipment the cult like sect would like to ban. Their "educational" contribution to this in the past has been to squelch all open communication about the election process, the tools in question, yet try to appease each side. This finally came to a head when Truly Dog Friendly organization (though they claim not to be) tried to seed their members through campaigning outside of APDT into the BOD. In the meantime, the training discussions in the APDT could only therefore be at the very basic levels of dog training and nothing else. IACP, International Association of Canine Professionals, had spun off from them previously to be open to all methods and members unless they were actively seeking to promote the banning of tools.

I Will Do Anything...

"I will do anything to stop this [barking, housebreaking, destructive behavior, aggression, fear, pulling, stealing, not coming,]." I hear it all the time on the other end of my phone, through e-mails and posted on boards. What is this anything they are talking about?

Well most of the time the owners think they are going onto the dark side, which includes the methods of flooding, kicking, hanging, yelling at, or hitting your dogs. However, I have personally never met a dog trainer or dog training school that uses these "methods" of dog training. I hear it in the trembling voice on the other end of the phone. Imagine their surprise when they hear or see my methods. That is, if they get that far in the first place.

In order to train at Mannerly Mutts there are some questions that need answering, some contracts that need signing, and I need to truly feel that the client will look out for the best interest of their dog. Otherwise, I am wasting both of our time. I do not waste my time with someone who is not that concerned about their dog. There are plenty of dog trainers around here that are not concerned whether a client does the work or not.   Mannerly Mutts is not one of them.

I see many of my clients and their dogs later on. One, because I have selected (yes, even in this economy) my clients carefully. Two, because they want to board their dogs in a house and yard that they are free to use and play in all day long. My clients do not want to NOR need to board their dogs in a kennel. They also know that most all of the dogs who come here have been trained using me, and are off lead trained. This provides for the safety and easy management of conflicts among dog personalities. So I better approve of these clients, as I am going to see them for not only their current dog's life, but most likely the dogs that come along after that in the future.

The "anything" that I want my clients to do, is to want to train, spend time with, and adequately care for their dog.   The "anything" that the political faction is talking about is either an urban myth or a method used by dog trainers mistaking themselves as professionals. They are not using anything that has been taught in the carefully constructed plans of  famous successful trainers. I study methods such as these everyday, and I don't use my body position or handling abilities to the best affect of the students of the students of the students of these masters yet. They looked so far ahead into what the dogs should and can be doing, that you are practicing for your Utility, as you are doing the Novice. That is, IF you are doing it the way it has been instructed. The main problem with the political faction is that the method has morphed more into "you do not need to train your dog to any standard whatsoever" in order to make your dog's life the most positive and fulfilling that it can be.

Here is the "anything" that students need to do. They need to look to the details of their handling (body position, holding the leash, movement of the shoulders, where the head is) of their dogs in order to excel. Now does everyone NEED to excel in the art of dog training? No they do not, but they do need to do it to the best of their ability. Why do they NEED to do that? To present to the dog the fairest and clearest picture of the foreign language now being introduced to them. I so wish that people would stop thinking of excuses of why they don't NEED to do very simple things, and instead think of what is BEST FOR THEIR DOG. That would make me very happy. Why spend all one's energy arguing about why they don't need to hold the leash handle the correct way? Why not just do it? Of course, I explain why and have a very detailed training manual that explains why. Why not just do it, and see what happens from there? Maybe the results that you could just could be because you did the training properly for the right consistency and clarity to your canine companion?

The people who have done the non or sub standard training are the ones that I hear grumblings from. "I went to a trainer but my dog keeps humping me". "I went to a trainer, and my dog is great unleash unless we pass by something living". "I went to a trainer, but my dog can't walk on surfaces like XYZ". "I went to a trainer, but whenever my dog hears a bell ring he freaks out." "I went to a dog trainer, but Fluffy can't handle it when a dog gets in her face." Dogs aren't perfect, and they are not robots. However, if you have gone through the trouble to get yourself a dog trainer, you should have someone that can coach you to make marked improvement in your dogs behavior. If you are not satisfied that has happened, by all means ask for your money back!! That is if you can also say that you did the homework as instructed. Also if you both agreed that this is something that would be worked on, AND you took the lessons numbers as advised by your trainer. If you didn't, then the only person to blame is yourself, as you will never know what your dog could have done under that instruction.

If I kidnapped you tomorrow, and flew you to an undisclosed foreign civilization how far would you get along in life (you can't get out) if you didn't have someone teach you the customs and language. How safe would you feel? Let's say a normal greeting is a football tackle. Would you feel a little confused, defensive, or fearful? What if someone stepped in front of the "greeter" stopped them, and started explaining things to you in a way you could understand. Maybe others that are not like you could understand, as well, that you are not accustomed to being greeted like that BUT in time you may learn. Maybe then you wouldn't be put to death for your misunderstanding of the strange customs:)

If you truly would do anything to change your relationship with your dog, give a little training of "that obedience stuff" a try. It's not as trivial or dismissive as others would have you think. It opens worlds and opportunities for your dog that you nor he/her ever thought were possible.

Do you think you fulfill the requirements to be a student or client of Mannerly Mutts Dog Training, York Maine's Dog Training Resource? Call Maine's Dog Trainer, Robin Rubin, at 207-361-4395. Or e-mail for New Hampshire Dog Training, Massachusetts Dog Training, or Maine Dog Training needs at mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com.

Proactive vs Reactive, Thinking Around Corners for Your Dog

A common mistake that a lot of dog owners make, is to wait until a situation is out of control before seeking to control it.   Signals and signs are not recognized or ignored for far too long.   This can makes situations that were easy to solve and prevent in the present, instead become big behavioral problems in the future.

To me being a reactive human dog owner is one that has missed opportunities to calmly and gently get potential problems under control in the past.   Because the owner has not been leading the way and allowing their dog to feel safe, the dog starts to make some decisions and actions that us, humans, won't be totally happy with.   When the opportunity to correct this has been missed in the past, it appears to force the humans into a reactive role.   To your dog this does not command respect or obedience, because the human appears unbalanced or terribly inconsistent in their rules and communication.  Remember reactivity is something that appears to come out of the blue for absolutely no reason to the canine companion.

Being proactive is more about knowing your dog and preparedness.   It's also about not glossing over behaviors that can become problems in the future.   Even if they are cute and not problems now, the proactive owner will find training and/or management solutions to proactively prevent something from getting worse or happening at all.

As in poker, certain dogs have "tells" when they are about to react.   My puppy, Boris, wags his tail very fast if he has been told not to do something, but still intends to do it .   For each dog their "tells" are different.    Some people try to major in the minors with strict rules of canine communication, but the truth is that this communication can vary among the individual personalities of dogs.   Statistical generalities can be made to try and predict future reactions, but remember that dogs are individuals.   One dogs striping along the back can be aggressive, while anther's can be excitement at meeting an old friend.

You can use what you know about your dog and their "tells" to correctly navigate them around corners.   For instance, if you dog pricks their ears and tries to stare down a dog before becoming reactive, you can use this in your training program to redirect that interest to obedience and calmness instead (with the right trainer, of course).

The proactive dog owner prevents future problems from occurring.   The reactive dog owner flirts with the dangerous possibilities of not being prepared in the future.   Which one are you?

http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com/

Dog Grooming and Maintenance At Least Weekly (Republished)

 Food, shelter, affection, exercise and veterinary care are the well known basic needs of your pet.   Many owners forget or neglect grooming most of which should be done once a week, and some of which should be done daily.   Grooming is not only about how your dog looks, but also relates to their health, comfort, and physical well being.


Long haired dogs can develop very painful mats and tangles in their fur.  To leave a coat in this condition and then drop them off at a groomers like that is animal neglect and abuse.   Law does not define this that way except maybe in extreme cases, but animals having hair mats feel much pain from this.   Some long hair dogs need their coats combed out every day or so, while shorter hair dogs could use it every week.   Long coats are sometimes best shaved or trimmed by a groomer or yourself with proper instruction.   Hot months can be tough on dogs blessed with luxurious coats.    It will also keep down the brushing maintenance on high up keep type dogs.


Short haired dogs are very uncomfortable carrying all that excess dead hair around.   Brushing out their coat weekly gets rid of dead hair, dirt, and dead skin that builds up in their coat otherwise.  The owner has an excellent opportunity to examine their dogs for lumps and bumps that may need medical attention or just tweezers.  Additionally, it's a great thing to do before weekly house cleaning chores, as you reduce the source of much loose dust and hair before the vacuuming and dusting commence.


Bathing is not something that is generally done too often.   Too frequent bathing can cause all sorts of coat and skin problems in dogs by robbing them of their natural oils.   Basically, most pet dogs get bathed when they get really dirty (IE roll in something horrid, or get muddy).   Some human conditions (allergies) can require more frequent bathing.   If this is the case, be sure to keep an eye on your canine companion for signs of discomfort.   Also, check with your vet on the best products to use.


Dogs nails grow fast.   As they become long, they are uncomfortable for the dog as they walk along the floor.   In extreme cases, the nails curl under and affect the actual gait of the dog making walking or running uncomfortable and not a joy anymore.   Dogs nails should be clipped every week.   White nailed canines are easy to clip, with the proper tools, as you can see the quick.   The quick is an area of the nail where blood runs.   Avoid the quick if you can.   Black nailed dogs are harder to judge.   If you are new at this, you might want to have your vet or groomer demonstrate the best way to do this.


Wax build up in the ear is a magnet for infection and bacteria.   Cleaning out the ears properly each week, keeps the ear canals clean and generally infection or irritation free.   You want to purchase an ear cleaning solution that dissolves the wax inside the ear, then when the dog shakes his/her head, the wax is shaken to the ear canal and wrinkles in the ear that you can see.   Be sure not to stuff the wax back down the ear canal with whatever you use to clean it out.    Some people use wipes and some people use cotton human ear cleaners.   You just want to carefully remove the build up that has become loosened.


Another place bacteria and plaque like to grow into infection is the teeth.   Teeth cleaning should actually be done (ideally) daily or even after every feeding.   Be sure that you do not use human toothpaste for this task the chemicals or ingredients will harm your dog.  Pet supply stores sell toothpaste and brushes for dogs.   Be sure to concentrate on the areas where plaque will build, as well as the teeth as a whole.   For instance, the back teeth, gum line, and teeth spaces hold a lot of  residue.


In addition to the above, successfully being able to groom and care for your dog develops a deeper relationship with your dog.   Grooming is also a time where obedience can be practiced and tightened up on.   Take care of your dogs, they love you so much.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Trainer Selection Checklist

A good working relationship with a dog trainer is very important.   Here are some things that I advise my clients and other dog owners to check into:

Education:
1. Seminars attended,and when.
2. How did they get in the field.
3. What was the foundation of their learning experience before opening their doors.
4. Certifications acquired and from what organizations.
5. What professional memberships do they belong to. Different memberships offer different services and education.
****International Association of Dog Trainers (IACP) and National Association of Dog Obedience Instructions (NADOI) are the two certificates that I think carry the most weight. If there is a behavioral certificate in their resume, if they are a trainer there should also be a certificate from those organizations or possibly the APDT. I put less weight on the APDT certificate as it's a multiple choice exam, whereas the others are at least a written demonstration of the knowledge of the dog trainer that is usually evaluated by a board of senior dog trainers.
Experience:

1. Years spent training dogs.
2. How many dogs trained to date and last 12 months. (an experienced trainer has already trained at least 200-300 dogs in total)
3. What kinds of breeds have been worked with. A snarky lab is quite different from an aggressive St Bernard. A toy breed with issues, is different than a giant breed with issues.
4. Do they own a dog? Your perspective becomes quite a bit different if you live with your own dog 24/7. In training pet dogs especially, it's important that your trainer is aware of the day to day with a dog.
5. Have they owned their own problem dogs, and successfully trained them to be in control? Ditto number 4 on this, you don't get a good sense of a problem dog that you only see for an hour every week. A trainer that has had a dog with issues, is more apt to understand the day to day.
6. How many sessions do they suggest you take? An experienced obedience trainer will not suggest that one or two sessions will get you a basic trained obedience dog. Most problem issues, unless they are super simple, are not addressed in two or three sessions either. The minimum that I will sell a client is 6, and I tell clients it takes about 12 sessions, if you are going from zero to get a dog trained in basic obedience skills.
7. How do they use private and group sessions? Good trainers know that if you are starting from point zero, group sessions are not going to help you very much, unless they are super tiny (the number of students that is, not the size of the dog). A knowledgeable trainer should let you get your dogs trained up to distraction first, before suggesting group classes, even though they are "cheaper".
8. Can they explain how age and physical factors can influence a training program and a dog's patience level if they are experiencing issues?
9. What different kinds of dog issues have they dealt with in the past?
10. Have they and can they train a dog to reliable off leash ability?
11. Are they married to one method in their tool box, or have they learned about and used many methods and tools? What is their decision making process for what tools and methods that they would work with you on?
12. What are their and do they have safety protocols?
13. How intelligently can they talk about tools, methods, and a plan for you and your dog?
14. Where and when have they worked or volunteered at other places having to do with handling or training dogs?
15. If they can't help you, do they have referrals of more experienced trainers. Vet referrals. What would make them send you to those referrals.
16. Do they offer more than "puppy play and socialize" or "manners" type of classes?
Plans for Continued Education:

1. Seminars that are planned to be attending, from who, and for what.
2. Skills or additional dog sports being worked on.
3. Areas that they see them selves wanting to learn more in.
4. What other trainers do they admire or want to emulate? (be sure to look these up, and read their literature and articles that are out there)
****Key, this should easily come to the trainer's mind. Good trainer's are always honing their skill set.

Articles and Portfolio:

1. There should be articles available written by the dog trainer themselves.
2. Their should be still pictures of dogs being worked with in obedience exercises. If you are looking at an obedience trainer, you don't just want to see cute pictures of client's dogs or client's dogs doing tricks, you want to see what you are hoping to achieve.
3. Video of work or end result. Ditto number 2 above.

Some Proof of Ability to Train Dogs:
1. Clients that are referrals and can be called on.
2. Letter referrals from clients.
3. Obedience type competition titles. (not solely agility titles if what you are looking for is basic obedience). You want a trainer that keeps this somewhat current in either their own dogs, or the successes of their clients in obedience sports.
4. Free consultations are available, especially to problem dogs. You should be able to view the trainer and the areas that you will be training in.
5. The trainer should be able to demo their own dog on the skills that you wish to learn.
6. Do they have a resume available.


Need your dog trained? Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com services page. Or contact me at 207-361-4395 in York Maine. Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.


Say no to HSUS, PETA, No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC) or Truly Dog Friendly Organization (TDF). Articles and information on why I do not support these organizations is on here and here.

Unfriendly Canine Legislation Trends

Above is Tommy (admiring blond Bella), who needed to get out of Switzerland due to the current climate in canine law design and breed specific legislation. Ah, for the days of blissful ignorance as a child running through the fields and woods with my Labrador/Beagle mix, Major.  Life was a simple pleasure then not weighed down with worries about the declining rights of dog owners.  Legislation is not discriminating these days regarding the rights of responsible dog owners vs. the rights of irresponsible dog owners.   They are the same with the laws banning breeds, muzzling breeds, limits on number of dogs owned, eliminating parks for leashed dogs, and making off leash access almost non existent. In 2003 professional dog enthusiast Internet boards were talking about the legislation trend sweeping many nations, including our own states.  Many thought the alarmists were Henny Penny types.   Many dog enthusiasts could not believe the sky was actually falling or to continue would continue it's fall.   Instead it was believed that these isolated trends would soon go away.   Unfortunately, the fallout from this has not stabilized into more reasoned actions or stopped altogether the way many hoped it would. Some examples of this: ·       September 2010 Worcester Massachusetts City Council members approve legislation requiring the so-called "pit bull" breed to be muzzled outside of their homes and/or property.  The specifics are to general to list, and the actual new ordinance is not out there in public yet.   April 1st of 2011 is when this new rule will take affect. ·       Worcester Massachusetts does not allow dogs in parks leashed or not.  (Paragraph 14 and unless a service dog) ·       The infamous HEART legislation of Albuquerque New Mexico.  Your dog must be on an eight-foot leash in this city any time you are not in your house OR in your own fenced in yard.   Yard doesn't have a fence?  Dog gets to enjoy time on 8' leash in your own yard.   Not a long line or flexi, but at the most 8'of fun. ·       Pawtucket Rhode Island has banned the so-called "pit bull" breed. ·       Ontario Canada not only bans breeds, but it is totally okay for the dog warden on his authority alone to confiscate and kill dogs. ·       No dogs on many if not all New Hampshire State parks leashed or not. Here is the bottom line, the hysteria and continued deluge of animal legislation and banning of breeds is not slowing down nor will it in the near future.   That is, unless dog owners, citizens, victims of irresponsible dog owners, and legislators really start to get a clue.   The individuals following the example of Henny Penny were NOT wrong.  Sky still continues to rain down on the rights of responsible dog owners.  The warnings went largely unheeded and still are not paid attention to by the dog owning contingent, unless it crops up in their community or affects their breed.   The trick would be to be proactive and block this kind of legislation and make the legislation seem very silly to introduce in the first place.  A proactive approach has been started but needs to be encouraged in the dog community to expand beyond the professionals in the dog field.   Here are some contributors to the current climate in dog law legislation: ·       Dog owners who do not really want dogs, and do not care for their dogs and the surrounding environment properly. o      Do not pick up their dog's waste. o      Allow their dog to roam the neighborhood freely. o      Do not properly train or socialize their dog. o      Neglect their dog. o      Excuse or deny issues that they are having with their dogs until something happens.  Sometimes not even then. o      Allow their dog to indiscriminately run up to humans or dogs that may not want their attentions. o      Allows their dog to create noise pollution in the neighborhood. o      Do not spend time with and/or exercise their dog on a regular basis. o      Does not allow their dogs to be mentally challenged. ·       A climate of "science" (not so much, and not what general public would assume it to be) in dog training, veterinarian practice, and animal behavior professionals that no longer recognizes dogs as individual in temperament, size, strength, age, and prior experience.  The art of dog training to a reliable standard where a shared communication develops the relationship of trust and partnership is slowly and surely being lost, when it is needed the most. ·       Irresponsible dog ownership that threatens the safety and well being of the public as well as family members. ·       The diminishing of areas where dogs can go to socialize makes it guaranteed that fewer dogs would be socialized.   Keep in mind what correct socialization really is. ·       Dog owners, who own large "power breeds", who do not recognize their duty and responsibility to be the best ambassador possible for their pure or mixed breed. Here are some actions that may help protect our rights if implemented in a careful and knowledgeable way: ·       Dangerous dog legislation needs to put management steps for the handling or disposal of the dog and keeping them safe within the environment.   However irresponsible dog owners or custodians need to be fined, penalized, or jailed as well.  So many irresponsible people could either care less that their dog may be put to death or may be a danger unchecked to others alive, untrained, and unsupervised.   Real consequences to the owner would, hopefully, in the place and reduce the likelihood of an irresponsible owner choosing to get a canine in the first place. ·       An irresponsible dog owner liable under legislative fines, penalties, or jail time needs to be defined thoroughly but carefully. ·       Off leash access should be given to responsible dog owners who can demonstrate their training work with their dog to a certain standard.   Also, the dog and owner should be able to pass temperament tests before off leash access is given.   Perhaps also a written exam to test whether owners know when off leash would be acceptable in a common sense way and not acceptable by use of common sense.  In this way, dog owners who are want to or are responsible can regain their right and privilege back. ·       Related to above, insist on standards being able to be demonstrated and proven in the dog training industry.   If certification and licensing is later needed, insist that the traditional obedience (off lead) tests that have been available through the AKC for very many years are the measure to which a professional dog trainer is held.   Dog trainers should be held to a higher standard than a simple Canine Good Citizen, Rally, or Therapy Dog Certificate.   ·       As a dog owner, always take the responsible and right action.   Keep in mind of the surrounding people, and give them no real reason to fear your dog.  The less ammunition out there the better. Prepare and train your dog to be calm and sure of themselves in all public areas. There are probably more points I could make on the causes and possible solutions of the not-dog-friendly legislation that is sweeping the world like wildfire.   Hopefully, this is enough for dog owners present and future to consider. MAINE AND NEW HAMPSHIRE DOG TRAINER MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING BLOG E-MAIL MANNERLY MUTTS

Choosing Your Veterinarian

The choice of a qualified veterinarian in every stage of your pets life is an important one.   Do not choose by cheap fees or for someone that is good mostly for vaccinations ET.   In the end, this will cost you in one way or another.   You want a vet who can recognize the signs of a problem early on, who is not afraid to refer you to a specialist and knows who those specialists in the area are, that you feel comfortable in their handling of your pet, and answers your questions in a way that makes sense and gives you all the pertinent information to make an informed choice.


If your dog is a working or sports dog, finding a veterinarian that is knowledgeable about your issues and challenges will be difficult.   In my area, I have only found vets that are familiar with typical pet dogs, unless they are specialists in the areas of ACL injuries.   Specialists, especially if they are surgeons, are very useful if you are going that route, but if you want to know all the options available to you, a generalist in the area of working and sports dogs is helpful.   I don't know if such a veterinarian exists these days.


Things to think about when dealing with or looking for a new vet:

1. Ask people you know or meet about who they use and if they like them.   
2. When you ask a question, do they thoughtfully answer and try to give you all the pertinent information?   Or do they just fluff you off with vague answers?
3. Do you find the vet keeps running the same tests, without giving you any answers that make sense in regard to the problem?
4. Are you given the opportunity to assist in handling your pet when they are going through a procedure?
5. Do you feel comfortable with the overall demeanor of the vet, and the information that they give you?
6. Do they willingly give out referrals outside of their office for problems that are specialized?
7. Do you ever get the sense that you are being taken advantage of monetarily?
8. Does the vet seem offended or does not forward medical records when you seek out a second opinion?
9. Is the vet cooperative with other vets or specialists that you may use (IE follows up, conferences with them)?

The following link has numbers that you can call to see if complaints have been filed or check on a veterinarian's association status. 


http://www.woodhavenlabs.com/veterinarian.html

Maine and New Hampshire Dog Trainer
Mannerly Mutts Blog

Arguments against e-collars

There are organizations out there that seek to ban various forms of dog training equipment. These organizations are Truly Dog Friendly (TDF), No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC-also a website under baddogsinc), and the International Association of Positive Dog Trainers (IAPDT). Just to name a few, I am sure. These people want to limit dog training to clickers, treats, and haltis. The real art of dog training is being lost in the translation. Here are some of their arguments against both e-collars and traditional training collars (prongs and chokes et).

Argument 1) There must be pain in order for it to work.
a) Not true, in a training situation. It works because you train them or teach them what the response is. It’s a collar that you can signal to them without a leash. Treats, for instance, don’t “work” because there is pain associated with them.
b) A loud voice doest “work” because there is pain associated with them.
c) This is a tool that is correctly used in an overall training plan to develop a partnership of respect and trust.
Argument 2) Opposition wants to try it on then on high not the low levels they.
a) Well, it hurts on high levels. We all know this already; nothing is being proved by this. Except that it starts of the circular argument that these groups use when sensible points are made in regard to training. When they acknowledge that low levels do not work, then they will insist on the high levels.
b) There are higher levels due to distraction level and adrenaline level increases during highly excited moments (i.e. a dog fight). To test this properly and in the right context, you should be in a fistfight at a bar brawl LOL. Something that is more than likely if you get enough dog trainers in the same bar, but still…
c) Why do members of Truly Dog Friendly, No Shock Collar Coalition, or International Association of Positive Trainers members not want to try it at low levels? Because most are honest enough to admit that it does not hurt on proper working levels, and that answer does not serve their purpose.
Argument 3) They are inhumane and cruel.
a) The human in charge would need to have the intent to be inhumane and cruel to do so.
b) Any piece of equipment can become inhumane and cruel in abusive hands.
c) Good training with appropriate tools is something that opens up the whole world for your dog. This is positive and dog-friendly.
Argument 4) They cause aggression.
a) Any equipment used either incorrectly or is not right for that particular dog can cause aggression.
b) Treat training has caused aggression in some dogs that just can’t handle the responsibility of it.
c) Lack of training can cause aggression.
Argument 5) They are too complicated for the general public.
a) Someone inexperienced with the modern uses of this equipment should have an experienced trainer show them how to use it in the context of obedience training.
b) Properly introduced, this equipment is far easier to get correct timing down without the distractions of a long line, or needing to properly work the collar attached to the long line.
Argument 6) They burn the neck.
a) Most collars operate on two AA batteries. Think about that, while I look up an article on the possibility of that happening LOL.
b) All dogs coats and skin would burn and/or catch on fire if this was a possibility. You would also smell the hair actually burning (think about your hair curler or iron). It does not happen.
c) Due to the metal rubbing up against the skin if it’s on loosely, can cause skin sores to develop. The collar needs to be on tightly in order to work correctly and not rub up against the skin.
d) Tri-tronic’s collars metal prongs have been known to trigger an allergic skin reaction in some dogs. It becomes an itchy and bumpy rash, not a burn.
e) Since these collars go into the water, a wet dog’s coat compresses making the collar looser until it’s dried. Loose and damp, not a good combination to be against the skin.
Argument 7) They are used as punishment.
a) They are used as a way to communicate timely with a dog sans a leash on low levels, and so the dog knows they should be paying attention. This is not punishment any more than a tap on your shoulder would be a punishment.
b) They are used as a great way to get your dog off leash and enjoying the great outdoors. This is considered a huge reward to a dog.
8) They are only used for stopping problem behaviors in an aversive way.
a) They are used to train a language of communication and partnership between a dog and their owner.
b) They can be used this way, but many trainers personally recommend that obedience training under a proper training plan is the way to go, except in extreme life threatening circumstances.
Argument 9) They are used as positive PUNISHMENT only (see definitions of punishment in this article.).
Argument 10) Your dog can not be rewarded using this.
a) Freedom is a huge reward. Playing in the woods, not needing to be called back immediately when galloping after friends, and running those long legs all over the place. This is huge to most dogs.
b) Being able to be out and about with the family in different places and environments that allow dogs is a huge reward.
Argument 11) Science is against shock collars.
a) The "science" they used are based on flawed studies with dogs being shocked (not stimmed) at random instead of with a purpose of communication. Yes, that will make a dog neurotic and scared.
b) Note, there is no real big source that is funding studies on dog collars LOL. The biggest and best aren't out there outlining the perfect scientific study for this. When they are called upon for their expertise, it's normally at the request of the AR movements or these fanatics that are against training their dogs.
Argument 12) Traditional and electronic collars are designed to work through application of pain.
a) No that's absolutely not true with the exception of invisible electronic fence systems. Traditional collars are designed to not slip off the dog, to hold them in place, and give them a correction that need not be painful for not performing the command or for bolting et
b) Much the same way, but with benefits, the electronic collar is designed to be used at low levels in a training program. The low levels can be worked so they are barely felt, and the reward is the increased freedom.
Argument 13) Affective kinder and gentler methods exist than traditional training collars or electronic collars.
a) Here is a listing of what Truly Dog Friendly, No Shock Collar Coalition, and International Association of Positive Trainers find kinder and gentler, along with why some results based balanced trainers do not use these exclusively:
i) Treats-These can cause some dogs to be neurotic, while other rewards are more beneficial for them. I have personally owned dogs with heart conditions that can not eat a lot of treats. These same dogs reacted better to the benefits of a partnership, soft praise, and a pat on the head than to a treat.
ii) Haltis-Not good for training your dog off leash due to injury. Off leash training provides more control, socialization, and overall enjoyment for your dog. The halti also never stops correcting your dog. Not considered dog-friendly in those circles.
iii) Clickers-Good for initial training, but not well for distraction off leash training. Great for trick training and agility.
b) Another solution that these members have come up with is they would rather euthanize the dog if the above methods do not work. There are, after all, so many “good” dogs out there.
i) Just because a dog does not respond well to treats, clickers or halti type “training”, does not mean the dog is a bad dog.
ii) Other equipment and training works more due to the control over stronger and bigger animals than we are used to managing in our more sedentary domesticated lives. They mimic the kind of correction another dog would give them, without the injury or long term consequences! Also without the pain that an actual dog bite would inflict.
iii) Dogs are not disposable (or should not be), though for safety reasons of the owner, family, and other humans and animals; I would possibly recommend that this solution be looked into. However, many dogs that are out there simply respond to a good training plan with a responsible owner.
iv) A dog already in a home with a loving owner should definitely have a chance to continue their life there. Their lives are not devalued just because they have not been taught how to respond appropriately in our environment.
Argument 14) Kinder and gentler equipment exists (head haltis and other haltis or citronella collars).
a) Haltis of the head or under the arms and citronella collars are all tools where the dog can not get away from the negative stimulus.
b) As someone who gets headaches from strong smells, I would think the citronella collar would be torture for a dog.
c) Not only is the stimulation for a traditional collar or electronic collar completely controlled by the owner/handler, it is not used much at all if the dog is trained. Not only can it be used lightly, but the sensation can be as light as a tap on the shoulder. That tap goes away once the dog is again focused on you.
Argument 15) They must always continue to wear the traditional collar or electronic collar to behave.
a) If you have not done your training work, that would be true. However, even so, the traditional and electronic collar are off more client’s dogs much sooner than is comfortable for me, so I can’t see how that can be true.
b) All my dogs have been trained on traditional and electronic collar tools, and this has provided them with the ability to be off equipment most of the time. We run a daycare here without fences, and during those times the dogs on the property have their e-collars on in case of an emergency, because I am not going to risk health and safety to anything to make a point.
Argument 16) People do not have the timing skills to use the traditional collars or electronic collars.
a) You do need to learn skills to do anything well. I would not have learned to do calligraphy even horribly without lessons. Thank goodness though that there are teachers out there willing to give you their knowledge.
b) Balanced results-orientated trainers call this the “dumb down” of the general public. More and more people do not know how to train dogs, as the better trainers creating less homes for dogs with simply solved problems.
c) It is not brain surgery or rocket science, and it is helpful to have a professional there to show you an efficient and effective way to train a dog for the inexperienced.
Argument 17) They do work, but……see above.
a) This is the argument that is used by members of Truly Dog Friendly, No Shock Collar Coalition, or International Association of Positive Trainers right before the “train with pain” motto is initiated. See point #1.
b) Low levels as used in training plans of knowledgeable trainers do not hurt. Dogs do not learn well in response to real stress or pain as a training method. They do not need to hurt in order to work, anymore than any other training method or tool needs to pain to work.
Argument 18) They don’t work.
a) This is the argument these groups use for euthanizing any dog that can not or is hard to train with treats, clickers, and haltis. The argument is that it's false to assume that other training methods actually work, especially in order to make a hard to manage dog a safe family member.
b) They do work in training plan, just as any other piece of equipment does and can.
Argument 19) Clicker training is a more perfect and scientific choice.
a) Scientists discovered that it was useful in training Dolphins, Whales and Bears for medical procedures et. However, one does not often live with Dolphins Whales or Bears.
b) Training focuses on how we learn to build a language between ourselves and our dogs for every day living. For many of us, our dogs spend a large amount of time in our lives, where more exotic animals would not.
Argument 20) The traditional training collar or electronic collar is not “dog-friendly” and certainly not “truly dog-friendly”.
a) That depends whether you are defining it using the version of "dog friendly" as used by the political dog training groups of Truly Dog Friendly, No Shock Collar Coalition or International Association of Positive Dog Trainers. Or are you using the more reasonable definition of dog friendly, as in the attached article?
Argument 21) The e-collar works on the “dominance theory” only.
a) No it works based on partnership and communication that is initiated by a successful training plan.

b) Some groups are using "dominance theory" of their definition to define other methods such as the Dog Whisperer's methods, because their business is threatened by his popularity.
Argument 22) No one can explain exactly how the e-collar works.
a) Actually most results orientated balanced trainers can tell you how ALL of the equipment that they use works.
b) This is meant to be the same argument as "train with pain" on point number one. The implication being that if it can't be explained, it must be painful no matter what one's own senses and observation tells them or not.
c) The e-collar works in a training plan, the same as any other piece of equipment in a training plan would work, except that you don't get bogged down with a leash, and your timing can be much better, when used properly.
Argument 23) Traditionally or e-collar trained dogs are so calm, because they fear doing something wrong
.a) They are calm because they have been trained. Training provides a dog with a sense of safety, because their owner is looking out for them and all their needs. They have nothing to worry about.
b) Play time is still exciting, but a responsible owner always has this happening to challenge and entertain their dog. Dogs who lack this in their daily lives become over excited about the prospect of playing.
Argument 24) Used by people who simply can not be bothered to use patience to train their dog.
a) Haltis are the most often used equipment that such people would use.
b) An e-collar is not going to work well for training purposes for someone who lacks patience. Abusive and irresponsible people can find any number of things to abuse their dogs with.
c) It is used to quickly reward the dog with the freedoms that can be experienced once trained. It’s true, some people do not advance farther than a off leash “let’s go” command with their dog, but on a halti people, generally, advance even less than that.



Need your dog trained? Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com services page. Or contact me at 207-809-6300 in York Maine. Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.



Say no to HSUS, PETA, No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC), International Association of Positive Dog Trainers (IAPDT), or Truly Dog Friendly Organization (TDF). Articles and information on why I do not support these organizations is on here and here.







Need your dog trained?  Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com services page.   Or contact me at 207-361-4395 in York Maine.   Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.


Say no to HSUS, PETA, No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC) or Truly Dog Friendly Organization (TDF).  Articles and information on why I do not support these organizations is on here and here.