Leon working retrieves (beginning work) 1/25/2011:
PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION.
SECOND WEEK DAYS 1-2: STEP 1: Warm up on Novice exercises until the dog is focused and attentive STEP 2: Leash should be on the dog to prevent fumbling for a stay correction,
if needed, and failing to begin the exercise properly. STEP 3: Come to a halt in the heel position. STEP 4: Give the dog the stay command STEP 5: The left hand is positioned on top of the dog's muzzle at the mid
point. Done correctly the thumb will be pointed towards the trainer, and the
fingers will be on the far side opposite. STEP 6: Hold the dumbbell by the end, and position the center in front of your dog's mouth.
STEP 7: Say the command "[Dogs' Name] fetch", press the dumbbell firmly against their mouth. STEP 8: The thumb and fingers of your right hand now gently hold the muzzle closed around the dumbbell, while your left hand moves from the top of the muzzle to scratch places on the dog's head that they enjoy (IE right behind the ears). Praise your dog as you do this "[Dogs' Name] Good [Boy or Girl]" for instance. STEP 9: Move your right hand from the muzzle as you say "[Dog's Name] give", and take the dumbbell gently from them. STEP 10: Release your dog with an okay. STEP 11: Repeat ten times each session by going back to the beginning. Change the location each time you come to a halt. Do this for at least two sessions during the day. Separate the sessions by the hours that you find convenient.
NOTE: IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU HAVE NOVICE SKILLS DOWN ADEQUATELY FIRST BEFORE GOING TO A WORKING RETRIEVE.
Boris and I begin our stay work for the trials on 3/12/2011. We have a lot to do on many exercises, so I don't know if we will realistically make it, but a few weeks before that date, I will decide if Boris might be ready for his first trial. Until then, this is one way to begin a stay command. The leash is held above his head NOT to choke him, it provides gentle pressure that helps him know that he should stay up straight and not slide down. This is a really good step, because some dogs will start sliding down, and you don't want to have that happen in a trial OR a dog get used to going into a down. That is all your team needs to blow the whole trial.
Here are the steps that we are working on in this video:
Collar and leash position: Snug under the chin, high on neck, and ring at back of neck. The leash is accordianed up in your left hand, and gentle pressure is held straight up.
DAYS 1 AND 2:
STEP 1: Handler will be in heel position, and the dog will be in a sit. The leash is accordianed up in the handlers hand, and held straight up behind the dog so that the ring of the collar is under the chin and straight behind the dog's neck. You want gentle upward pressure (like how a turtleneck feels) STEP 2: Say "Sit" and then stay stay as place the palm of your hand in front (not on) of your dogs nose and then take it away. STEP 3: Step off with your right foot, and position in front of your dog, also called the nose to knees position. STEP 4: With your hands and verbal praise, encourage your dog holding their head up high to maintain eye contact with you. STEP 5: Return to heel (or ready) position. This also means that you switch the leash from the left hand to the right hand, and it's loose. STEP 6: Remember, you have not given your dog the release word. Remember this while you praise your dog for a good job with verbal and physical contact. STEP 7: Should your dog break their position, give your dog the sit correction. If not, then be pleased that your dog maintained their position. Remember we are still just teaching the exercise here. STEP 8: Do an exercise finish (ie heel forward into auto sit). STEP 9: This exercise will be done until you have built up to one solid minute of consequitive staying. You do not start at this time. Slowly build time up from something like 15 to 20 seconds. If they fail at any point, stay at that point until you go onto more seconds. STEP 10: Repeat until your dog can achieve one minute. At the end exercise finish, and then give your dog the release word so that they know they are done.
By the time that you get to the stay Week 1 (longe line, sit on the dog) and Week 2 (heeling and sit and continuation of Week 1) should have been accomplished. In the progression that Boris and I are taking each exercise builds on the other, and provides for opportunities to maintain the previous exercises.
*****I just noticed although I did not intend to share our first stand practice (this is my first time with this method of stand as well as far as training my dogs). Well, you get an uncut (and terribly boring) portion of me trying to sort out practicing the stand position in a different way than I am used to. Again, this all follows Week 1 and 2 work, and thus here are the steps I am attempting to follow for Week 3 work on Stand Days 1 and 2:
PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION.
Equipment Needed:
6' Leash
Training Collar
Explanation and Goal of Exercise: The start of the command teaches the dog how to go from a sit position (bum on the floor) to a stand position (legs vertical and "straight" with bum off the floor) with a verbal command,while the front legs stay in the same position and place. The dog should be able to allow for foot positioning by the handler, and inspection by another party that is not known to them.
Uses for this Exercise: You are able to position your dog for grooming and veterinarian exams if you have completed the exercise properly. I have a dog with bad knees, and so I use this exercise as an auto stand (instead of the auto sit) while heeling.
Week 3 Stand Days 1 and 2:
STEP 1: Drop the leash. STEP 2: Position the collar so that it is high and snug. The running links are held by your right thumb and fingers on the running links, which are positioned below the ear and below the eye level. STEP 3: The handler's left hand travels down their dog's left side to lift up once they reach under the hip. STEP 4: Reposition any feet that are not in a good position for the comfort of the dog. STEP 5: Your left hand strokes from neck and down to the shoulders, but avoid touching the bottom end, as you do not want to encourage a sit. STEP 6: Right hand moves down to the leather portion of the leash, to carefully pick it up being sure not put any pressure on the collar or pull up. STEP 7: Do an exercise finish. STEP 8: Now we say stand, and start building up the stand stay until you can do this for 1 minute. (WATCH FEET AND MAKE SURE THEY DO NOT MOVE, SHOULD THEY MOVE, BE SURE TO REPOSITION THE FEET)
Last year, legislation in my own town, York Maine, took me by surprise.Due to the passage of this legislation, dogs are no longer allowed off leash and under voice control in areas where they previously could be.Unfortunately, I only found out about it when I got my absentee ballot to vote.I felt it was way too late to try and organize a move against, and I explain my other thoughts in the linked blog that starts off this paragraph.
Before and since, I try to look for and be aware of what is posted out there about legislation coming up especially in regards to pets(my primary interest being the effects on dog ownership of course).In browsing a Facebook page for an animal rescue called Almost Home Rescue of Maine.They were discussing some legislation in progress for the state of Maine, which is likely to make landlords very leery about renting to pet owners.It may also make landlords review and change their policies for current pet owners living in their apartments.Yikes, don't we already have an economy problem and homeless animal problem in full force without this additional monkey wrench?
I would like to urge pet owners, rescues, and professionals in the pet industry, veterinarians, and any people who are interested in pets to share information like this in any venues that they can think of.If you run across an article or piece of information, please do not assume (as I have been guilty of) that they "right" people know about it.Here are some sources you can share the information with or look up what is going on in Maine (in addition to writing to your legislative contacts and signing petitions):
Also if you have a blog, be sure to blog about it, then it can be found when others search on these issues.If you have a rescue, do not assume that your audience is not interested, and share what you know about legislation that is happening.
If we can all share this information, it can be acted on that much sooner.Once these things become law, it's very hard to reverse or amend them.I went over some unfriendly dog legislation that exists in this blog post.
Other ways that you can get a heads up on local legislation are:
Search the Web for news stories on local pet legislation.
Follow your local town councilmen/women <G> meetings.Many times they are broadcasted on local television or may be available on the Internet.
Check local rescue pages for news and discussions.
If you know the bill number, you can check the Maine Legislative site for the wording of the bill (and the status).
Many pet legislative bills start out with good intentions, but the language ends up restricting responsible parties.This is why it is so important to share and keep an eye out for pet legislation.
Boris Goals for UKC Competition: (March 12 2011 is UKC trial)
1. Heel on (week 2 started) and off leash
2. Figure 8 on leash
3. Stand for Exam (week 3 started)
4. Drop down
5. Recall over high jump (week 2 started jump)
6. Recall over broad jump
7. Honor down stay
8. Group sit stay (week 3 started)
Special notes: Boris jumpy around kids that move quickly, excited in public needs more training there.
Magoo CD (in other words has his CD) Goals: (first trial opportunity for high scoring Novice March 4)
1) 190s in Novice before going onto (ongoing)
2) Open exercises, preparing to be off leash entire ring time (ongoing)
3) Figure 8 off leash (should not be a problem, we are maintaining)
4) Retrieve and recall over high jump (working on jumps until we get to his height then send or recall over)
5) Jump over broad jump with handler in different position (working on jump right now before send over and recall)
6) Drop down on recall (ongoing and maintaining)
7) Sit and down stays while handler out of sight (ongoing and upping the distractions)
8) Working Retrieve (about to start with week 2)
Special notes: Magoo still very enthusiastic about small dogs when he sees them (they are not so much here, and he lives with a Westie that he loves), Magoo hasn't been worked in city public settings lately or in Petco. If his owners are going to be at trial, going to have to do very much training around them first. Magoo is a BIG dog, who does not know his own size:)
Leon Goals and ORT:
1. Working Retrieve (in progress-now on week 2)
2. Calm while working other dogs in front of him in a stay and behind something (or playing with a toy) (coming along, training and maintaining daily on this)
3. Add to freestyle dance moves and add onto routine (added handler crawl under to stand as possible move, need to outline a routine to do has a spin, weave, heel of course, stand until thru and back thru)
4. Nose work (in progress week 1-auditing class)
5. Seamless go to place and stay on place (in progress and maintaining in different areas and different places)
6. Tricks stay treat on nose and flip
7. Heel off leash in public places that he can or in distractions (trying for 15 minutes heel working walk a day in different areas)
Special notes 1) Brattiness work 2) Needs a bit of alone time with me special:)
I have a client that moved away to Vermont. Her dog has been unfortunate enough to have been born with some serious physical and medical issues that made themselves known very early on. So it is important for this client to maintain their (as in the team) training and socialization (safely).
The human client gets bored however. I totally understand this, much of my training uses silence, calmness, repetitions ET to ready the dog for distractions and temptations of the real world. "Aha, she said, then you admit that training is boring". Well, I certainly don't think there is a large television audience ready to watch "real dog training". It is my job and my client's job to learn to appreciate the dog training process. This is for the ultimate good of the dog, and to keep the training as gentle and easy as possible, while still training for reliability and results.
So now I will present to you a video of paint drying-----sorry just kidding. It's even more boring, this is training stays that are in the middle of their development. What is really exciting is the level of freedom and peace that can come to a dog owner (once the command is usable and/or finished), so that they are more refreshed to do the playing, exercising, and just being with their dogs in general! So instead of screaming at your dog to get out of the way while cleaning, or hearing them cry crated in the next room, here are some commands and training that can bring just that little bit of peace into your life once finished. Plus it is so much better for the dog, as they do not need to guess at why you are annoyed with them. Instead, they have a job to do for a few minutes. Now that is something that I CAN get excited about!
NOTE1: THIS IS NOT THE BEGINNING POINT OF THE STAY EXERCISE. IT IS MORE THE LOWER MID POINT OF THIS EXERCISE. BEFORE THIS HAPPENS DOGS NEED TO BE ABLE TO STAY WITH YOU NEAR, STAY WITH YOU NEAR AND MOVING, STAY WITH YOU MOVING AWAY FROM THEM, MEANWHILE YOU ARE ADJUSTING THE TIMES AND DISTRACTION LEVELS. THEN EVEN BEFORE THIS STAY BEHIND WHILE YOU GO AROUND OR BEHIND SOMETHING. DO NOT START HERE.
NOTE2: ELECTRONIC COLLARS ARE ON IN THIS TRAINING SESSION, HOWEVER ALL THESE DOGS RESPOND TO BEEPS AND VIBRATE, AND THEREFORE DO NOT NEED THE ELECTRIC STIM. FOR STAY, I DON'T RELY SO MUCH ON THE COLLAR, I DID VIBRATE A COUPLE OF TIMES FOR THE "LET'S GO" AS THE DOGS WERE RELUCTANT TO GO INTO THE "NEW" ROOM.
These exercises are all part of daily training that we do. The stays are related to the obedience training. Tommy (the brown Pitbull/Lab X) is just doing this to maintain his training while his owners are away. Magoo is learning to stay in a down when I leave a room. My dog, Leon, is learning a little self control when I am not working with him right by my side.
You will see later that I switch up the distractions, rooms, and whether or not the dogs are with other dogs or alone in the room. All these things you change up help train your dog in a more complete way. Even if your dog does not need to deal with many distractions, they will stronger in their undistracted obedience for learning how to keep a command under distractions.
It won't be boring if you learn how to appreciate what is going on, and live in the moment with your partner.
Recently, I began auditing a nose work class with Pam Belcher, who gives classes in a couple of Maine Dog Training facilities. The great thing about auditing a class is that without a dog it can be half the price. The bad thing about auditing a class is you are without your dog. Even if your dog is going to be in a crate for much of a class like this, this tends to be good experience for your dog. However, I inquired too late, and figured this is something pretty simple that I can take home and do myself.
Apparently there is a sport out there where you can get nose work titles. In fact, it appears there are events going on this year in Massachusetts. I thought (in addition to tracking) this might be a good thing to get my dog, Leon, into. Leon has bad knees, and therefore does not compete with me in obedience. However, six year old Leon is a very active boy with a high drive level for fun and work. Leon may pace himself, but even when having been heavily exercised during the day, he is the last one to want to stop even of the younger puppies. Leon is also a show off and an attention hog . So I have felt bad that he hasn't had the outings that he deserves for working and showing off.
So the first lesson was basic and easy stuff, as most first lessons are. However, in any first lesson, the main point is to start the foundation to your goals down in an easy way for the dog (and yourself). The quiet non interesting things are many times of such great importance to the training of the dog. So it started with about six boxes, one that is used for treats although they are shuffled around. The boxes started off in a line, and were uniform. Ms. Belcher explained that uniform was not so important when you went home. A bowl was places in the designated "food" box so as not to contaminate the box too much with odor.
Boxes were used to get the dogs used to putting their noses in the air to look, rather than looking on the floor. The top of the boxes were open with the lids folded inward. A bowl is placed in the designated "food box" to put food rewards in. Then you bring your dog online or off leash to inspect the boxes, and select the one where the food is, which he/she is allowed to eat. There are a few things that I did different than what they did in the class:
I do put my dogs in stay commands before they start. I may very well rethink this if I do this as a sport, but in general my dogs need very little motivation to do this sort of work . Again, I may rethink or regret this later on, but I am the sort of trainer who experiments and mixes stuff up. I do take note of what I do different, so I can kick myself upside the head later. The worst that happens is I need to develop fixes for mistakes that others may make.
I do not use the "smelliest" or "tastiest" treats possible as most of my and my clients dogs get quite excited over dog kibble.
I do have my dogs separated from the space the set up is in at the very beginning point, as they do not seem to have a problem with the concept, and I don't like to make it too easy for them.
Even more things that I was tempted to do differently:
I worry about putting treats that they may eat in the box at this point. I would rather that they take them from my hands, as I suspect this may cause problems later on. We will see, I figured I would experiment with this and see what I think will happen will happen.
I think I would start not with the line of boxes but with the mixed up boxes, as I think that makes it way too easy for the dogs, but I may be wrong. I do understand the value of breaking things up into the smallest increments possible, and so I did not experiment with this:)
My work is a bit sloppy here (I say quiet at one point, and then realize that I have no intention of backing it up because I am trying to work another dog LOL---and other things like that), and my video awful, as I am multitasking. I could not find my tripod attachment to the camera, this would have made this much easier. I have now located it, so hopefully other days work won't make my audience quite so sea sick.
Oh and you might want to turn down the volume, as my puppy Boris is being crate trained (ie in that he needs to be in a crate with other dogs working and getting treated in front of him, I am not talking about basic in home crate training) in this video (translation squeaky male Doberman crying). Leon is usually involved in the training, and he is being kept behind a mock wall in the basement while I work other dogs. He hates this, and I am working him on this as I do want to bring him to group classes like this this year without him being a major SUPER BRAT, while he needs to watch others working. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED:)
At my first reporting at about 9:00 AM, two of the dogs seem to remain missing, and one (Candy) was returned as below:
First there was Selene, an unaltered red and white young Pekingese female of about 12 pounds, who was being cared for at the Animal Welfare Society in West Kennebunk Maine. She is six months to one years of age, and WAS wearing a pink collar. Selene was stolen on January 8, 2011 between the hours of 2 and 3 PM.
If you feel you see these dogs, please report it to your local police. You never know if this person or person(s) may be dangerous. Each shelter has a facebook page up, and is talking about the dogs.
I can only imagine that all area shelters will be on the watch for suspicious activity or people lingering. This may very well be someone known to all shelters or it could be a group of people who are very misguided either in good intent or evil intent.
These dogs were surrendered to shelters/rescues that their original owners felt would give the appropriate medical care and future stable homes. If someone took the dogs to give them a "good home", be aware that a responsible person would have contacted the shelter and paid the very low adoption fee. The least expensive part of owning a dog (any dog) is usually the adoption fee.
I would urge this person or people to return the dogs immediately back to where they were entrusted in the first place.
In 2004 I began Mannerly Mutts Dog Training Blog as my Worcester Massachusetts dog training business began to take off. Soon, however, the business and family moved to York Beach Maine.
2. What was your original purpose for starting a blog?
Sharing adventures, trials, and tribulations of dog training with the general dog owning public.
3. Is your current purpose the same?
The original purpose is always in effect. However, I have increased the scope and content of the blog.
If not, what’s different?
It has grown to promote dog training or results orientated dog training to the general public, and how this can enhance a relationship between dog and owner. Our blog also serves to provide information on balanced dog training, and expose the myths and misrepresentations out there by others. It has also grown to become an informational resource to our clients and their continuing or beginning education.
If so, how do you feel you’ve met your goals?
I am less concerned with my blogging goals then my goals in business in general, but I do believe we have met these goals. Often times I come across people who read my blog, and it always surprises me:) in a good way.
4. Do you blog on a schedule or as the spirit moves you?
I try to blog on a daily schedule. However, when my business is busy or I am training competition dogs, it is not always my priority. You will see there are some months where blogging might be missing all together.
If the latter, do you worry about… well, whatever you might worry about (e.g. losing traffic, losing momentum)?
No, if I am not blogging that means I am doing the important work of demonstrating dog training and working with owners training their dogs. As long as I keep blogging, it seems my audience always comes back and continues to grow.
5. Are you generating income from your blog?
Not directly, and it’s not really the purpose of the blog. My customers don’t really come from my blog; they go to my blog after they have found me. Sometimes in finding me they may check my blog first before contacting me, but my blog is not directly responsible for any income.
If so, how (e.g. sponsor ads, affiliate relationships, spokesperson opportunities)?
Not applicable.
6. What do you like most about blogging in general and your blog in particular (bragging is good!)?
I like presenting information to dog owners that is hidden or misrepresented (intentionally) by other professionals in the dog business. There are also some incredible dog trainers out there doing excellent work (and can reliably demonstrate that work), and they should be known and sought after.
7. What do you like least?
It has not happened in awhile, but I hate when zealots come after me. I believe I have stopped this by addressing them in a direct way, and not allowing what they were doing to be unnoticed or uncommented upon. I do not moderate my commentors other than to delete spam.
8. How do you see your blog changing/growing in 2011?
We are going to be having group classes for the first time. These will be new adventures in dog training to share. I will also be sharing on how my posted goals are going in the new year of 2011.
More video demonstrations on common dog training concepts. I am going to start holiday photo shoots with my dogs, and show off their abilities. Perhaps interactive discussions. I don't plan for the changes to my blog much, they pretty much grow organically themselves.
So, there you have it. Don’t forget that there is still time to enter to win the SturdiProducts Car-Go giveaway – and be sure to follow the links below to read more blogger’s posts for the Pet Blogger Challenge!
Dick Russell passed away on the morning of January 6th 2011. I didn't know him at all. His name, his wisdom, his love of dogs, and creativity in finding balanced, gentle, and clear ways to train dogs are familiar to me in his articles, the articles of others, and to my early introduction to dog training. Mr Russell had the attention of many other well respected trainers.
In celebration of his contributions to the dog training world, I would like to link to some gems of his and other trainers, who credit him, in the form of articles:
In 2010 I completed my goals of 1) completing Companion Dog Titles on Bri and Magoo and 2) keeping my business income in line with last year. The description of goal one was that I complete titles on dogs that are not mine and not living with me. I also wanted to bring in breeds that I seldom see in the trials around here in the obedience ring. I have to finish up the third goal during Jan to March this year, as I petered out in 2010. This goal was to complete my certification papers for IACP and NADOI.
In 2011, in addition to completing my outstanding 2010 third goal, I want to 1) Score in the 190s in AKCNovice with Magoo and related to this get an indoor score that is acceptable, as I have a phobia of indoor trials (we already earned Companion Dog) before 2) complete a CDX, also known as Open, on Magoo (I have never trained a working retrieve before and have started with Magoo OR jump and return on command for that matter) 3) complete Novice for my dog, Boris, in UKC (he is an amputee and another first for me as far as training) and 4) continue on with Leon's training so he will be engaged and working as my demo dog (we've been working on retrieves, tricks, stationary, and anything that comes to mind, but well so they can be done in front of the public on command Or that is what we have been working on).
Jackie Companion Dog 2003-2009
Jackie Companion Dog 2003-2009 Owned, handled and trained by Mannerly Mutts
Bri, Companion Dog owned handled and trained by Mannerly Mutts
Magoo Companion Dog handled and trained by Mannerly Mutts
My business goal remains the same for 2011, but is going to be particularly challenging. We will have a few clients no longer needing in depth training services or daycare services. Additionally, with the economy right now, if a dog can stay home, dog owners are keeping dogs home. This is not so much a problem for us as we are going to continue to only take on training clients as daycare clients, AND it's one part of the business where I earn the least but spend the most time. It's about time to keep our daycare program on the same level or potentially phase out all together. However, the need for quality training grows as people are spending more time at home and with their dogs.
So in 2011, we will be rolling out our Group Classes this year. It seems timely for all of the reasons above. I am still not sure whether I will limit this to only clients that have trained individually with me OR open it up to the public at large. People who have trained with me know the safety concerns I have, and why I will be quite harsh with people who threaten the safety of the class (and I mean humans and canines). Our group class will be different as it will not be confined to indoors or on my property, just as the private classes are not. I will most likely need an assistant for these classes. We will see.
Looking forward to a full year in 2011 and much success with our clients:)
This year my funds are rather tight for seminars (well they have been for some while). So now pick one or two seminars that appear to be of good quality to go to, and I watch videos and DVDs of trainers or equipment that I am interested in. This also helps me decide if I should want to see more of this person in person (or shell out dough for their seminar)
Leerburg and Ed Frawley are well know names in dog training (around here anyway). Ed Frawley's training philosophy is detailed on his website. His website is also an extensive collection of his articles, podcasts, and much more information. This is always helpful to a trainer or new dog owner, BUT never forget that doing is the way that you really learn (especially in the presence of a teacher or instructor who has developed the techniques and methods). This is why DVDs and books are a resource, but never enough to teach you how to train your individual dog. There are so many variables to a dog including personality, size, physical health, and temperament that no one DVD or book could tell you all there is to know about dog training.
Producing a video is no small task, especially one on dog training. That being said, here are some things that I did not enjoy about the Basic Obedience video:
Too much of it was from a seated position on his porch without training happening.
Basic concepts and his philosophy were repeated over and over again, such as that all breeds can be trained and all dogs are individuals.
I use markers myself, that is yes and no. He showed how to use them with a training demonstration, but failed in my opinion to point out those subtle things that owners should look for in dog training (body movements of handler, body movements of dogs). I thought a lot more could have been explained and gone over during the exercise demos.
Where he showed a happy German Shepherd that was largely untrained how to sit, I thought the use (and selection) of equipment was badly done. I felt this demonstrated to me how I would never want to train a dog to sit, as there was in my opinion no clear communication going on there.
While the concept of keeping training short was introduced, I felt that during the down stay that the exercise was being moved forward too fast for the dog before that 100% understanding happened, and that Mr Frawley agreed was necessary.
Corrections seemed sloppy and ill planned, and especially unfortunate was the leash used in the beginning phases of this particular (sit and down) training.
Of course, I do have far less experience and accomplishments than Mr Frawley. Seeing him in person could totally change my perspective on this years down the road. In going over my educational materials now, however, I feel that other DVDs have been better done for dog training. They are often not the most exciting DVDs in the world, especially if this is not your work and interest, but I found this DVD hard to get through. I do have others of his that I am interested in reviewing, especially the one on puppies.
Every dog trainer has a preferred method, equipment, and ways that they go about training a dog or puppy. There are indeed many ways to skin this cat, and much of it really has to do with how patient and consistent a dog owner and trainer is, as well as their work ethic. Here are some points where I do agree with his method or like on the DVD:
It does appear that he works with green or untrained dogs on this video, which is refreshing.
He promotes motivation.
He uses markers such as yes, and I use these too although just a bit differently (think hot and cold). I use mine more for distance work, and he starts off up close. I might use something like his method to teach attention especially for obedience trials or a working/companion dog.
He uses a prong collar, which I feel is an acceptable training collar.
He does not think head halties and the like are training tools.
He does believe that their needs to be a consequence or correction (once the dog knows what they are doing) in order to complete most training.
He believes distraction training is essential. So do I, because I want the most full life possible for a dog.
Where our philosophies would differ:
I was very surprised to hear Ed Frawley label Koehler method as "yank and crank". No doubt others not familiar with the actual method of KMODT would not be surprised. In my opinion yanking and cranking using this method would be using this method incorrectly. I base that on seminars taken with Margot Woods, who was a Koehler student back in the day.
Ed Frawley believes that the traditional metal training collar (IE choke collar) is dangerous and should never be used. I believe that if you know how to use the tradition metal training collar, it is a far more elegant and easy tool to use (without yanking or cranking) in order to prepare for off leash work and competition. Remember the handler always has control over the level of correction, and ANY tool including a leash can be used incorrectly and abusively.
The DVD shows dogs on a longe line far more and for different uses than I would prefer to use my longe line for. This makes for sloppy (again in my opinion) communication to the dog in those stationary exercises, where I prefer the communication to be slow, patient, clear, and steady.
I disagree that a dog can not enjoy a one hour training session. Mr Frawley believes that 15 minutes can be too long. The reason that I disagree with this is that often my dogs are enjoying the time and adventure we are having. I agree that doing this in a row all the time, and especially if it starts to get boring would not be productive. In training the foundation, it is often times necessary to spend that time with the dog.
I thought the corrections that Ed Frawley did give were ill timed and in the "crank and yank" vein.
Ed Frawley believes praise should rarely be used as the sole reward, and I believe food is the one rarely used, as their is so much more to life. Plus many frequently used training treats can cause unforeseen health problems.
He claims that most residency or Board/Train dog programs are too harsh and rely too much on submission. There are some trainers that promote these "rushed" training programs, but many professional trainers who know what they are doing train appropriately in their residency program.
My main problem with the DVD was that it was like looking at a bad recipe. Some cooking books have very detailed recipes and places that tell you what techniques are exactly (IE poaching, simmer, ET). Then their are bad cookbooks where the recipes may not have been tested, and are not as detailed in the techniques used. Dog training is not hard or rocket science, but it is very detailed if you want to go about it in the most effective and efficient manner.
The DVD did not make me want to put Ed Frawley at the top of my "to see in person" list. Adjectives that I would use are repetitive, sloppy, and dull. I do not think this can be a true representation of his skills based upon his bios and reputation.
I do not recommend this DVD, but I remain open about Ed Frawley in particular.
NOTE: MY VIDEO IS FAIRLY OLD AND COULD HAVE BEEN UPDATED SINCE THIS ONE WAS FIRST PUBLISHED. IN OTHER WORDS THE ONE THEY SELL ONLINE NOW, MAY HAVE BEEN REVAMPED OR COMPLETELY DONE OVER.
In reviewing the site information for Leerburg and the current videos being produced, I did however find that Michael Ellis videos for sale might be of interest. What I was able to preview seemed to be a communication style and presentation style more to my liking. Leerburg has a sample of his lecture to be on a new video.
