Showing posts with label New Hampshire Dog Trainer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Hampshire Dog Trainer. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Why Do Dog Trainers Cost So Much? (Republished Article)


Sometimes luck comes into your life, and you get something for free. There are many good reasons why a dog may be free, but a human shouldn't NEED for the dog to be free for financial reasons. There are many reasons to pay for the dog you need. These reasons include needing a specific dog due to allergies, temperament requirements, lifestyle, shedding, frail owner, active owner, specific job, stable physical construction, and so on.

In any case, the least of your expenses is going to be the adoption fee, even if the dog comes from a breeder.   Proper care of a dog includes feeding, grooming, exercising, veterinary care, your time and patience, and (in a perfect world) training.  Training will actually help reduce your veterinary care by allowing your dog to respond to commands, thus avoiding hazards.

In the dog training world, there is a lot of free advice out there. This is given by professionals, by non professionals, and maybe even by anyone who has never owned never mind trained a dog:) Or maybe they have had the perfect "no issue", "bomb proof" dog. Perhaps you have a "no issue" "bomb proof" dog as well, and there is not much you are going to do with your dog to make things worse.

Households do exist out there, where free advice can make things worse. Dog training done well, is a skill (some might say an art form). It's a learned skill that has taken hours on hours of practice. For a professional dog trainer, this should mean hours and hours with many dogs that are not the trainer's own dogs!! These should also be random dogs not trained only because the trainer or behaviorists finds them interesting, but trained towards a goal and IMO a standard. When presented with "the problem" or "the issue", trainers who have studied hard know that (unless this is a bomb proof or no issue dog---in which case you are probably not getting the call) communication and a dialogue of skills or commands are needed to begin to address the problem.

A typical jumping problem that does not respond well to ignore it OR stand like a tree, usually could use a stay command. In order to have a stay command, you need to have a sit command. In order for the stay to be useful, training around distance, movement, and distraction are needed. Not something you are likely to learn in a quickly typed comment OR in a single lesson. Owners, being beginners without X many years in handling and training dogs to a measurable standard, need practice on things like leash handling, timing, body posture, and learning to relax and loosen up. As with any skill, these things aren't learned in an hour session, but upon repetition of practicing the skills CORRECTLY. In a lesson for an individual, what is happening is the trainer is coaching the owner on how to train their dog.

Dog training is a business. A business that most of us adore and love no end, but this is not a hobby. This is a profession. If if dog training were free or at a minimal cost, dog trainers would not be able to afford to be dog trainers. However, this is still not why a dog trainer's fee is above minimum wage.

Okay, so why are the fees 60.00 to 100.00 per hour?  There is a reason that you are  paying well above minimum wage to a respected professional dog trainer.

TIME AND EXPENSE OF EDUCATION: A whole other debate in the dog world is how you go about getting your education. Someday, I will tackle that subject in an in depth article about that. The talented and knowledgeable dog trainers out there have put significant time and expense in acquiring their education. A trainer should not have just trained their own dog, and then had a vision one day to put their shingle out. Putting out the shingle should have had work, sweat, money, time, travel, and some pretty hard knocks behind it. This knowledge is a combination of learned by the guidance of many mentors and learned by just the sheer amount of time that training was practiced. If you have a trainer who is further educated in aggression or behavioral problems, and has had a proven success rate, then that is a bit of help that is hard to find. Education is not just a one time thing for a dog trainer. Education for a dog trainer is something that is acquired every year by pushing themselves out there beyond the safety of their prior knowledge.

TIME OF LESSON PLAN CREATION AND FOLLOW UP:  Before the lesson, I prepare and look at my notes as to what was done the last lesson. I create the lesson plan for that day with the individual team in mind. After the lesson, I send my clients the notes on what we did, the very detailed directions, and specific notes on special problems or issues observed during the lesson. I tell my clients to call me if they have a problem during the week. I would rather iron out the problems so that they can practice correctly in between, rather than play catch up on the next lesson. Therefore, my minimum time on one lesson can be three hours and more.

TIME AND EXPENSE OF FACILITY AND CLEANING: Oh yes, dog training businesses have overhead costs!! Some operations even include the cost of the equipment in their fees. There is the cost of maintaining inside and outside practice areas, disinfecting, clean water buckets available at all times, waste bags, pooper scoopers, trash cans in areas, solutions to take care of accidents on the site immediately, electronic cleaning equipment, building costs, depreciation costs, insurance costs, jumps, articles, fences, staff, and it keeps going. If the trainer is traveling, there are all the vehicle costs that go along with it. (tolls, meters, gas, insurance, repairs, parking, maintenance)

TIME AND EXPENSE OF TRAVEL: First of all, it's not just that hour that you are paying for.  If there is a good reason, I will go to to my clients (within reasonable distance) for their lessons. The time and expense of travel is something to consider. Also, so many owners are not there for the appointment, late for the appointment, or not prepared for the appointment when the trainer gets there. It can also that no homework has been done, so when the trainer gets there for the appointment, it needs to be cancelled before any further "new" work can be done.

CREATIVITY AND PROBLEM SOLUTION: The above things lend to the creativity and efficient problem solving of a professional. Due to the time spent in the field with a variety of sizes, temperaments, and breeds; a Professional Dog Trainer can get the job done efficiently and effectively. The investment in the dog trainer will also erase the need to find a professional in the future to solve the same problem. However, maybe that Professional Dog Trainer will inspire you to advance your knowledge as well. A Professional Dog Trainer will have improved the situation so that your relationship with your canine companion is much easier and more enjoyable. This will be true for the both of you.

The dog training profession is a profession just like any other. Yes, most of us love all dogs and want to do what we can to help the dog/canine team exist a happy, healthy, and safe existence for the rest of their lives. However, that does not mean we do not need to charge a reasonable fee for our services to cover our costs.


http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Sunday, February 23, 2014

Before Even Thinking About Biking With Your Dog...


Biking is not an activity that dog owners "need" to do or "have to" learn. I d This is something that I do with my dogs for the enjoyment.   However, if you don't do this safely, it will be a much less enjoyable activity.   This activity needs to be safe for you AND your dog.

So before you even think of biking with your dogs, consider these tips and safety measures:
  1. Concrete, pavement, and cars can kill you or your dog. (not while biking) I missed a step one day to the mudroom and fell onto our concrete floor. My whole chin was one large lump and bruise, I felt quite fortunate to have hit there instead of my head (where a concussion may have rendered me unconscious and then dead). I was also very grateful to have not shattered my jaw. Now consider this power in a scenario where you may be propelled forward. (see number 3)
  2. Dirt roads and trails contain rocks, which can kill you if you strike the right body part on them. (see number 3)
  3. Wear a helmet on your bike with or without a dog. (See number 1)
  4. You have no business even thinking about biking with your dog, unless you know how to train solidly for basic obedience. Or are training with someone who will teach this solidly. The reason for this being a dog left to his own does not know the danger caused by running UNDER the bikes wheels or lunging at a squirrel.
  5. Prepare, prepare, prepare before mounting your bike with your dog in tow. I usually start with heeling my dog next to a shopping cart at Petco for instance to get them used to it in a fun environment. I heel them next to me walking my bike. I do lots of these things before I mount the bike with my dog, including making sure that they know basic obedience very very well. You will also want an emergency sit, auto sits when you stop the bike.
  6. Always consider the safety of the general public around you. This article link is one example of what could happen.
  7. Flexi leads are very likely to get wrapped up in gears (and there should be no need as your dog should be heeling next to you IMO ). This is why I do this on my strong, sturdy leather lead. Note this is not to keep my dog with me when he pulls, as I do not allow my dogs to pull when in a heel. It's to keep the loose leash from being frail and thin enough to wrap around the gears.
  8. (related to number five) Just in general with biking, I tend to not wear sneakers with any laces that could become untied and wind up in the gears. Some lighter baggier kinds of clothes can get caught in them as well.
  9. Do NOT attach leash to bike. Better to hold the leash (and see why 4 is very important) in an accordian style, in case your dog stops to pee (seee number 10) so you can quickly drop the leash, stop, and call your dog to you when he/she is done.
  10. Remember dogs may have to stop and pee, and may not be able to tell you how...other than by stopping suddenly. (see number 9)
  11. Keep in mind that your dog should only go at their comfortable pace.
  12. (related to 11) If you want to multi task and exercise, put the bike on the highest tension level possible, rather than overtaxing your dog with speed.
  13. This is a group/partnership event, you must always be aware and look out for your dog and others.

I am sure that I missed a lot more, but these are things to think about before even considering biking with your dog:) One can always bike without a leash with their well trained dog. I prefer a leash on my dog whenever I am around vehicles that are moving quickly. When I am riding around my house, my dogs don't have leashes on, and are free to decide to follow or not follow. Many times I don't have them in a heel if it's just on my own property. Still, you will want to start out so that your dogs are aware that they shouldn't run into wheels, jump on you, et. I probably could have added a few more for this scenario.

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Friday, November 15, 2013

Holiday season tips for your canine companion from Maine's Professional Dog Trainer

Leon and Boris at Petco.
Thanksgiving, Hanukkah,   Christmas, and New Years are all just around the corner!  So what does this mean for your beloved dog?  Here are the things you should be aware of:


  1. Everyone loves a Christmas tree.  Unfortunately the tinsel, lights, ornaments, hooks, packages with wrappings underneath, and potential for the tree to fall over can all pose a threat to your dog.  Glass ornaments can not only be unhealthy to digest but can cut your canines' feet.  Also it's wise not to use edible ornaments on your Christmas tree.
  2. In some homes there will be major food preparation for celebrating the holidays.   This means an increase in foods that are not toxic to humans but possibly foods toxic to dogs.
  3. Not all dogs like the increase of visitors to their home.   If you have not prepared your dog for this in the past, think of strategies that will make them comfortable and so they are not put in situations they will not be prepared for.
  4. There are holiday plants that can be toxic to your dogs.   
  5. Hard candy such as candy canes may not only be choking hazards and unhealthy, but they may actually contain ingredients poisonous to your dogs!
  6. If you are opening the doors a lot, you need to be sure that you have made any dogs liable to bolt safe during these holiday visits.
  7. Bones can also be choking hazards or even carry dangerous bacteria.
  8. Holiday candles are always in danger of being knocked over by a pet.   Or even a pet just burning their nose.
Holidays are a fun and busy time for humans.   Just don't forget to be on the lookout for our other companions during this time!

Visit our Maine Dog Training Facebook Page for more tips and tricks.   

Looking for puppy training or dog training help over the holidays?   Whether you live in Maine or outside Maine, we have a professional dog training program that can help you.   Sign up soon, and your dog may be trained or had behavioral modification help before the holidays!

Thursday, October 10, 2013

Playing With Shana Madela's Future Registered Name

I've done some further research into what I want the components to be in Shana's name.   First I took the list of what I saw as her personality traits, then I found F words that loosely described that.

Next I went to look at some F names and their meanings.   Found some great names in those as well.

So the further listing I did for components to her registered name are as follows:


  • Pretty-Fancy, Fine, fair, foxy,
  • Head Strong-Fresh,
  • Focused-Focus, Fixate,
  • Fun Loving-Frolic, Flirty, Feisty, Fun,
  • Agile and Athletic-Flexible, Frisky, Fleet (Fleet Footed),
  • Strong-
  • Clever and Smart-Fascinating, Foxy,  (Like a Fox),
  • Problem Solver-
  • Loving-Faithful, Fervent, Fond,
  • Independent Minded-Freewheeling,
  • Protective-Fierce, Fiery, Fury,
  • Climber-
  • Fearless-Fearless, Forward,
  • Friendly-Friendly, Fond, Familiar, Faithful, Favorable,
  • Naughty-Fiendish, Fresh, Fractious, Froward,
  • Adventurous-Free, Fearless, Forward
  • Busy-Forceful,
  • Bossy-Fiendish, Fiery, Forceful, Firm,
  • Bully-Forward, Forceful,
  • Driven-Fated, Finished, Fulfilled,
  • Female-Femme Fatale, Female, Feminine,
Miscellaneous F words:  Favorite, Finagled, Fierce, Ferocity, Ferment, Fetish, Fetter, Fire, Forest, Fumes, Fortune, Fortunate, Flower, Freewill, Frenzy, Fresh, Friction, Fiction, Front, Finish, Fetching, Flame, Flaming, Forage, Foray, Fly, Flight, Flyer, Flounce, Float, Flit, Fit, Fight, Flight, Fear, Flaunt, Flutter, Forge, Firefly, Famous, Fame, Fanatic, Fan, Fanciful, Fable, Facet, Fancied, Feuding, Figment, Find, Fiesta, Fangs, First, Flare, 

Shana's dam's call name is Cinders.   Her registered name (and titles) is Swift Run's Volcan Masaya VPG III IPO III PSA-PDC, CD RN WAC CGC.  And her Sire's call name is Nemo and registered name (and titles) is Dark Nemo vom Koby Haus BH, ZTP V1A, IPO 2.

Fabrizia-means worker
Faina-means joyful
Faizah-Victorious
Fanchon-Freedom
Faren-Wandering
Fausta-Happy, Lucky
Fay-Fairy or Elf
Fiametta-Means flame or little flame
Fionan-Fair
Francesca-A Free Woman
Frodina-Intelligent Friend

Faithful Fiametta (would follow her mother's call name cinder)
Frolicking Fiametta
Frolicking Flame
Frolicking Frodina
Faina Fay
Frolicking Faina Fay (this has a nice cadence to it)
Faren Fiametta
Faizah Fay

Faizah Francesca
Fleet Frodina (I like the meaning intelligent friend)

All this boils down to coming up with an "F" registered name for Shana Madela (pretty girl in Yiddish and her call name).  Some names I am experimenting with:

Masaya's Frolicking Faina Fay (last two words Joyful Fairy-and nice cadence)
Masaya's Frolicking Fiametta (last word meaning flame or little flame)
Masaya's Faithful Frodina (least word meaning intelligent friend)
Masaya's Faren Fiametta (last words meaning wandering flame-due to Shana's adventurous nature)
Masaya's Fionan Francesca (fair free woman-don't like it but I was trying to come up with something close to pretty girl)
Masay's Foxy Francesca (better than the one above)

I also like the word Faizah, as it means victorious.   

Masaya's Faizah Fay (last words meaning victorious fairy--eh)
Masaya's Fleet Faizah

Just some thoughts.   If anyone else has an idea based on these various F words, feel free to forward them:)   Just having fun looking at the possibilities now.




Monday, September 30, 2013

Help me find Shana Madela's registered name!.

Shana with her best friend, Clooney, (silver lab and no that
not a recognized lab color) on the couch.
Thinking of Shana Madela's "registered" name.   As many know, Shana Madela has come from Masaya Dobermans in Kentucky.   She is in an impressive line of dogs that have proven themselves dog sports like Schutzhund and Obedience(and others).   Ways in which breeders and other can track their success, is by registering their dogs and their litters.   You can track Shana Madela's breeding through many generations of dogs including seeing their accomplishments.

When Shana begins competing (hopefully next Spring of 2014 ), Her registered name will show as Masaya's [Something starting with F].   This is to easily identify her as belong to a certain breeding. In this case call names Cinders (aka Swiftrun's Volcan Masaya VPG III, IPO III, CD, RN WAC, CGC) and Nemo (aka Dark Nemo vom Koby Haus BH, ZTP V1A, IPO II) are the dam and sire.   Cinder actually originated from the kennel that our previous permanent foster dog, Stormy (aka Swift Run's Krystal Storm SchH3, WD3), came from.

I do need to find out what the other registered names in the litter are, so as I do not duplicate one.   I do know that they like it to be based on nature and fire I believe.   I thought I would start this process by thinking of things that describe Shana first:
  • She's very pretty, hence her name in Yiddish means pretty girl (Shana Madela).
  • Head strong and determined.
  • Focused (which also happens to be an F word).
  • Fun loving.
  • Agile and athletic.
  • Strong.
  • Clever and very smart.
  • Problem solver LOL.  Also could be described as problem maker if she was not in a training home.
  • Loving.
  • Independent minded.
  • People loving.   
  • Protective (especially of certain canine friends or family)
  • Climbs onto anything she can. (I call her Monkey sometimes)
  • Fearless.
  • Friendly.
  • Bad and naughty.
  • (having to do with above) Adventurous.
  • Busy, she is very busy.
  • Bossy.
  • Bully (wow a B name would be easy LOL).
  • Drive.
It's alright for the registered name to be more than one word or even a short phrase.   My last puppy from a breeder, Leon, had his registered name come with him.   It was Ogelthorpe which was a university in the area that he came from (short name Ogre).   If it was not the exact opposite of Leon's personality, we might have kept it for his name, but the name Leon seemed to work as far as he was concerned.   When I was scolding him I would often say "Leon Ogelthorpe", but Leon never did get in any "real" trouble.   He was the easiest puppy ever, except for his initial mouthiness.   I actually remember that he could get as determined as Shana does about some things.   Hence why I am working with Shana in following my lead, rather than ever giving in to her protestations LOL.

Shana is very easy, except to convince her that calming down will get her what she wants in the end.   She is very determined to get somewhere or to something.   She can also figure out (or is figuring out) that working with me will get here there a lot sooner.   She learns things at an amazing rate of speed, and can also figure things out on her own (like opening doors) very rapidly.   She is tons of fun to work with.   I am training her mostly from what I learned at Mike Elllis's seminar and by watching his tapes.   As far as working with her while she is really focused on getting to dogs on the beach, however, I have started molding sits ala Koehler or Bedrock (I can not remember which but Margot, Bedrock's Method, was a student of Koehler).   Mike Ellis's engagement protocols are very helpful in this endeavor as well.

We are using food, balls, and tug toys (yes also technically a toy) to do most of the up front training with Shana.   Shana has been started on loose leash, heeling, come, sit, down, short stays under limited distractions, stand, and spin (yes not an obedience thing).   We are coming up to the six month mark next week for Shana's age.   Bonding with Shana, Robert, Boris, and myself has gone great.   I will no doubt be in charge of bringing Shana anywhere for a long time LOL, so we can take advantage of training opportunities that Robert will not yet be prepared to deal with.   Once I train one of our dogs, and especially if I have another dog in training, I seldom get to enjoy my training efforts on family outings with my dogs!   My husband is the usual beneficiary of this.   So Boris has been handled by Robert on family outings lately.   

I have to be ready to work Shana this winter if I want to trial in the Spring.   I am not going to lie to you, it's hard to keep your training schedule up in the winter.   It's even harder to locate acceptable venues for this!   There may be matches this Fall/Winter in the Saco area for me, but also there might not be.  I have learned to train around this, but it is challenging.  Having even a fake ring to practice and perform in does help.   However, if you keep up your training and keep it crisp & fresh in other distracting areas, that helps load too.   Of the two, I would rather practice in real life distractions rather than rings, but there is no doubt that ring practice can help!   It is not technically necessary, but do be sure you need to get to places as often as possible that are somewhat crowded with dogs for the specific purpose of training.

Well that is a bit about Shana Madela and what we are doing before beginning to think about her registered name!   It's an exciting and fun time here.

You should never forget though in order to have a fantastic dog, you need to work and have patience with your puppy!   Now is the time to do it, rather than wait until they are at their biggest and strongest, AND have not learned anything.   It is far easier to manage a puppy that is not at their full weight, and is willing and ready to learn at this young age.   Bad habits are harder and far more work to get rid of later on.

But if you are ready for the challenge, it will be fun and a great bonding/relationship building time for you and your puppy.

Please no comments about purchasing well bred puppies means killing dogs in shelters.   Of my seven Dobermans, two have come from breeders as puppies (Leon and Shana) to work with me as demo dogs and competition dogs.   Three (Neptune, Jackie, and Stormy, who came at 10 years old) have come from Doberman Rescue Unlimited as adults (Jackie CD did become my competition dog but died at 6 from intestinal problems that he came with).   One has come from Doberman Rescue Unlimited as a puppy with three legs (Boris and he is four years old now), and Shana believes him to be a rock star LOL.   One was an adult female that we did get from a breeder who no longer wanted her as her personal pet or to breed (our awesome first Doberman, Jazzabelle, who lived until 16).   I always plan to have at least one Doberman from Doberman Rescue Unlimited here.  I love rescues, but I also understand the value of dogs bred for health, temperament, and structure.   I do not think the solution to the rescue problem is to malign responsible breeders who put tons of work and knowledge into keeping dogs healthy.

I love dogs healthy or not, but I know that in order to home my skills, I occasionally need well bred dog to work with! There are issues that come with my beloved breed, especially if care has not been taken in the breeding, that can take them out way too early.  Not to mention, when you love dogs as much as I do, you want to spend every moment you can with them even the geriatric ones! IMHO it is an honor and a privilege to have a senior dog.  It is also hard to watch a dog that really wants to do things, but physically is held back by heart disease or something like that.   They can enjoy life, but as an owner you have to watch out for their limitations, while allowing them to enjoy their life to the fullest that they can:)

Also statistically, you are going to pay (in the end) much more for a dog that has something genetic lying in wait, than a well bred dog where care has been taken to try and eliminate these things.   Neptune in one year had medical bills well of $10,000 to keep him comfortable (and he was) and alive.   Much of those bills were in the form of the medication that he needed, and the check ups to make sure the medication was working.  I actually left my job in corporate America (because I financially could at the time) to be sure to be around more for Neptune during his last years.   It was this, and Neptune's initial behavioral problems that got me into dog training in the first place LOL.   So my expensive rescue dog who had serious health issues and could not compete, is ironically the dog who got me started in the first place.   Also Neptune was an excellent and loving dog.   If he was reincarnated, I don't know if I could afford it now, but I would take him again!   As I would all for all my past dogs, rescued and bred!

Are you interested in training with Mannerly Mutts?  Your first step is to fill out our client interview form.  


Friday, August 16, 2013

Yard Work Inspired by the Wiggly Bridge

Our woods is always a problem.   Trees seem to fall daily out there.   I do want to eventually get a tree guy to help me cut some down in the near future.   In the meantime though, I know I can do some clean up work myself.   I recently went dog training at what we call the Wiggly Bridge in York Maine.   It connects to another great trail that we call The Fisherman's walk.   I brought Sadie and Clooney out to train earlier this week.


It struck me that what they were doing with the wood seemed 1) easy to do and 2) sort of visually appealing. I have been making it very hard for myself by trying to truck the wood OUT of the woods.   I have also been trying to figure out how to manually saw the wood.  In what wood be a tragic mistake for everyone here, I think, I have also been considering a chain saw purchase.  We be originally city folk, this would not be a good idea!


Not only wood this clear up my woods, give me something neat to look at, but best of all give me things to hide behind or in when playing hide and seek with the dogs!   Eventually I could even wood chip it into the mulch we use for our penned in area!

I've started today, and am making good progress!

Interested in training with us?   First step is to fill out our client interview form.   We will contact you with your options well before 48 hours.





Thursday, August 1, 2013

How to try to protect yourself before, during, and after a dog attack

The events on July 30th at Ellis Park (off of Short Sands) in York Beach Maine set into motion by the actions or lack of action by Piscataqua Obedience Club have made me consider the other side of the coin.  How do you keep yourself and your dog as safe as is possible from a dog attack?   I am by no means an expert, but I have some ideas about this due to my profession as the owner and trainer for Mannerly Mutts Dog Training.

  1. Be aware of your surroundings when out and about with dogs. Things can happen unexpectedly and quickly.  If you are at a dog event, do not assume you are safe from the dogs in the ring.   You may want to inquire about what their safety protocols are, and expect an answer that does not sound like a brush off.  (i.e. first aid kits, volunteers and helpers on the look out, how information would be collected).
  2. If you see a dog eyeballing you or your dog or you feel at all uncomfortable, remove yourself, your family, and your dogs out of the area. (Also see point 4 if any leash laws are being broken)
  3. Do not assume that dogs on leash are not a threat.   The human at the other end of the leash may have no control or negates their responsibility for control.  If you see a large uncontrolled dog on a flexi leash, leave the area.  In some areas, flexi leashes may be against the animal control ordinance.
  4. Do use your animal control department.   If you see someone ignoring the leash law, the best thing you can do for everyone is to report it (including their dog BTW).   Law enforcement does not tend to get serious about this until they have a few reports, so do not wait to report an offence.
  5. Before a dog is coming up at you:
    1. Do not make eye contact.   Look to the side.  Do not to be at all a threat.
    2. Position your body so you are not straight on.
    3. Do not run.   This will elicit a chase.
    4. Do not approach the dog, if you feel the dog is a danger to you.   Even a dog that is simply frightened will most likely bite you if cornered.
    5. Try and locate a place you may be safe, and attempt to go there slowly.
  6. If a dog is coming at you:
    1. You can offer up a piece of clothing instead of your arm.
    2. If they are already in chase mode, feel free to get quickly to an area of safety if possible.
    3. I step in front of my dog, and put my dog in a command if I think I can stop the dog.
    4. Use any furniture, gates, cars, et to get away from the dog and put something in between you and the dog.
    5. If you have a small dog, be aware that a larger dog may come up after the small dog if you pick them up and hold them.  
    6. In some instances, you may want to drop the leash on your dog so they can get away or defend themselves.
    7. There are tools that you can bring with you on walks.   These include canes, blow horns, sprays, an extra leash, and extra clothing.
    8. Try and remain standing, and protect vital body areas.
    9. If you find yourself on the ground, ball up in the fetal position and cover your face head and neck areas as best as possible.
  7. If a dog fight or attack has occurred:
    1. Do not put your hands in the middle of it especially near their heads.   One or both of them are in panic and defence mode.
    2. If you can get the back legs of a dog (and someone else another) grab these.   However, pulling them might do more damage to the other dog if they are gripped in a mouth.   As long as they are not damaging the airways, wait until they release.
    3. Tail grabs are also another option in these circumstances, if the dog has a tail and you can’t get their back legs.
    4. Using a piece of furniture or another implement to disengage the fighting party(ies).
  8. How you handle it after the attack has occurred:
    1. If you are at a public event, immediately stop the event by whatever means necessary.   Be sure that everyone there knows that you and/or your dog are hurt.   (This is how I will be handling this sort of thing in the future if I or someone else is hurt).
    2. See if anyone at a public event has film of any part of what happened.
    3. If you have a camera, make a video record of everyone there.    If you were lucky enough to get the actual attack on film, be sure you don’t erase that.
    4. If you are severely hurt, dial 911 if possible or have someone there do it, first and foremost.
    5. Get the owner’s info, the dog’s info, and any info on any witnesses around you.  Be sure you get access to rabies certificates and if possible any insurance the owner of the attacking dog has.  If you have been severely injured, see if someone else on scene can stop the person from leaving and get their info.
    6. Do contact the police and report the incident.   The owner of the attacking dog is most likely required to report any incident involving their dog as well, depending on the animal control laws where they live.
    7. Go to your doctor or vet to have any and all injuries checked out.
    8. Be sure that you hold the owner of the attacking dog liable for damages.

It is ALWAYS the responsibility of the dog owner to keep the public safe from their dog.   The following are not excuses that the victim of a dog attack should accept:

  1. You were jogging.
  2. Your or your child was being loud and screaming.
  3. Your dog was barking.
  4. You went to pet the dog (Each dog owner should be managing the space for their dog.   Unless you attacked the dog after being told not to approach, this is not acceptable)
  5. You were riding your bike.
  6. You were playing with your dog.
  7. You were walking your dog by their house (while still being on the road).
  8. You were eating something.
  9. You were drinking something.
  10. Your dog was eating or drinking something.
  11. You wear perfume or cologne.
  12. Their dog is a “working dog” and these things happen.
  13. You are wearing a baseball cap, wearing a uniform, have a beard, are bald, and on and on.

Unless you intentionally and maliciously provoked and/or attacked the dog (and that includes not listening to the owner to leave their dog alone), then YOU are not at fault if another dog has attacked YOU or YOUR DOG.   Not ever.

The good news is these are actually pretty rare when you look at the population of dogs and dog owners.   It is the few irresponsible dog owners that make most of these situations happen.  Occasionally it was an undiagnosed medical or mental issue with the dog, that the owner did not see coming.  Often it involves a lack of socialization, training, and proper management of someone’s dog and their environment (meaning they manage who can and can not see their dog and what situations they put their dog in).

Also most people and organizations are more than happy to take responsibility for unfortunate events that may occur on their watch.   It is regretful that I know now of at least one obedience club that does not take their responsibilities for public safety seriously.




Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Turkeys in the yard, just one of the things dogs here are regularly trained around



Just one example of the wildlife that we regularly have around us while training dogs.   You can never predict when they may walk through, so you always want to be prepared.   At this point, most of the dogs here just ignore them LOL.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Friday, June 21, 2013

Local dog, Midas, recovering from a skin irritation on Short Sands

 
I spotted poor Midas the other day, while out with the day train crew at Ellis Park/Short Sands Beach.   He looked very blue, to match the color of his soft collar/cone preventing him from itching his forehead.   His owner reported that Midas got a skin irritation that he just would not leave alone, hence the comfort cone.
 
Feel better soon, Midas!
 
 
 


Thursday, April 11, 2013

Maintenance, It's Not Just for Your Weight

Leon 2004-2012 had so much fun with us.
This dog loved to work and train and be with us always.
Life happens, and it usually disrupts your daily schedule for weeks maybe more.   Here are some tips for when you fall behind, (or if you are maintaining your goals regularly) here are some tips for staying on OR getting back on your horse:

  • First outline what you want to accomplish and what you want to accomplish, and what you want to accomplish with each dog.   (in my case our Leon and Boris)
  • Outline how to get there, if you do not have a strong idea on how you will.   Otherwise, just be ready to acknowledge this is going to take a lot of every day work, where minimal progress will be made each day, but in the long run it will be strong progress.
  • Create a journal online or manual writing where you document the work that you do each day.   This is important, as in dog training you want to rotate the environment and exercises a bit, and now you can keep track.   If you work a lot of dogs, this all becomes fuzzy in your brain once the day is done.  (I have found that while loosing weight, this has kept me in line much of the time.   If I have to think about what I am doing and putting into my body--by making myself accountable---then I am more likely to make the right choices).
  • Acknowledge your progress and the areas that still need work as you go along.   Don't rush towards the goal so that your work becomes sloppy.  Just everyday chip away at the work so you don't get frustrated, and the dog doesn't get stressed out being pushed beyond what should be reasonably expected.

Before you know it, you and your dogs will be there and be ready to start and complete your team's goals!!

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

    Friday, March 29, 2013

    Questions from Future Dog Trainers


    (This article has been re-posted from a couple of years ago.)


    Here is a series of questions  e-mailed to me a couple of years ago by someone starting out in the business:

    1) How did you start your business?

    I volunteered for three years in shelters while working as a controller, without any thought of getting into this business. Then it occurred to me, that I hated what I was doing then, and needed a new direction that had more meaning and made more sense to me. I volunteered as an apprentice at Doberman Rescue for a year. Then I put up fliers offering training at dirt cheap prices, and let people know I was beginning. As I got more confident, the business grew and the prices went up modestly. We lived in a city at that point (it's important to note that city training and country training are very different and both should probably always be done), and later moved to York Maine after finding a property that fit both me and my husband's needs. I hit it off with a pet sitter in the area, who started me off on referrals. I knew how to use the Internet to capture my business if searches went on. In the first year, I was already doing what I did in Worcester MA after two years. So basically, I jumped in when the water felt fine LOL. Not to say, there is still sooo much to learn, and I am not where I want to ultimately be yet, but each year I have a different goal for business marketing and personal professional development.

    2) How do I go about finding shelters to volunteer at, and do they have any prerequisites needed?

    Shelters usually require very little of their volunteers (hard enough to find consistent ones). Here is what I would look for in a shelter, 1) a safety protocol for volunteers, 2) a training plan for volunteers, 3) cleanliness of facility and healthiness of dogs... The biggest problem is there is usually no real "master trainer" on staff at most shelters. You have to understand that most shelter staff are paid at minimum wage or are volunteers. Risking their safety with behaviorally challenged dogs is not normally in a shelters best interest for the safety of adopters or shelter workers, and hard sad decisions need to be made. If you can find a place that has a master trainer with some proven track record in obedience and behavior modification that would be great. Now the other news, is that purely positive politics have overtaken most shelters. I am not against positive training, I am just unconvinced that cookies and a high voice can behaviorally modify most dogs. Certainly avoiding life does not behaviorally modify most dogs. So if you can find a shelter that is not afraid to use tools like metal choke chains or prong collars when necessary, then you are probably better off. If they use clickers and treats too, that's fine. You want a shelter that is open to the idea of results and the saving of dogs lives if possible.

    A lot of it is about behaviorally modifying the owner as well , which is something the shelter dog does not have yet. That's actually the most frustrating part. The part about the shelters that is disheartening, is that (and this has happened to me) you can work on a dog, then they go to a home to someone that won't upkeep all the work you have done. Then the dog does something and is put to sleep:( Usually, they have been unsupervised or put into a situation they should not have been. You need to at least be aware that this can happen. It's not something you can prepare yourself for fully. This is something that can burn you out, and does burn a lot of shelter workers out, understandably.

    3) I have worked with daycare, but feel I am more managing play than providing any real direction for the dogs.

    That's why every dog that comes to daycare must be a training client at Mannerly Mutts, or accept that their dog will be trained before being accepted into the program. Obedience training, for me, has been the key to behaviorally modifying most dogs. This is beyond a position but includes distractions and the realization that I don't need protection help from my or my guests' dogs. Becoming involved dog obedience competition and competing, will help you hone your skills to be more precise and the best communication for you and your dog team. I didn't think this was very important at first, but it has proven to be a really great eye help in this.

    4) What is the difference between conformation and obedience?

    Conformation is for breeders or owners who enjoy getting out and doing something with their dog. It tests how well the dog meets up to standards of the breed (measurements, coats, temperament and such) in order for there to be a guideline and way to research dogs for future dog owners or dog sports enthusiasts.
    Obedience in the competition setting is the proofing that your dog is able to perform commands on first command, and while surrounded by a distracting environment. Obedience is the working partnership between you and your dog OR the handler/trainer and a dog.

    5) Why did you pick Doberman Rescue as the shelter that you apprenticed at (note there are all sorts of ways to apprentice, this is just one that I got lucky on, normally you have to pay)?

    My very first dog came from DRU. When I was apprenticing there, they were one hour and forty minutes away one way! So no, they were not the closest. I knew about the training program there, as I had met the director before. I had sent her some questions, similar to your asking me, and she said "hey why don't you come up and apprentice with me". They are the only shelter that I know that has any kind of training program whatsoever, and due to the lack of funding that I have described before. DRU has somehow attracted very wealthy donors who have given them things like land, money to build the shelter (it used to be out of Claire's basement when I got my first dog there). I was also very impressed by the work they did. When I used to volunteer at Worcester Animal Rescue League, which does great work within their means, I was frequently put in danger by both staff and volunteers not having any training ability. Once they let an elderly man walk a Rotti, and he did not have a good grasp on the leash when the dog went after the dog I was holding. IN other words that dog got off leash, and probably shouldn't have been handled by an elderly volunteer in the first place. It resulted in the putting down of a dog, that I felt was completely unnecessary (the dog put down never had any chance at a training program, and wasn't a bad guy. I understand the shelter's position, it was sad all the same). DRU had a better handle on procedures and volunteer education. They are the only ones that I have found that do, except that I have heard good things about Kennebunk rescue. I haven't checked them out for myself yet.


    6) How can I find out about seminars?

    Here's the bad news, there are almost no seminars in the New England area worth seeing IMO. We aren't exactly the dog training hub of the world, as far as effective and reliable training goes. There is a board that I look at from time to time on yahoo called http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/DogSeminars, which posts any seminar that goes on there without prejudice and very rarely has a review on them. However, you can scan if see if anything is coming in your area. Most of the "aggression" seminars (practically all) that come to this area have NOTHING to do with aggressive dogs LOL. Not that this is the only behavioral problem that is worked with, but it is one that requires confident and safe handling. So keep that in mind if you pick any in this area. You could probably find some decent clicker training and motivational training seminars here. There are a couple I have been meaning to see if they come back, with the economy money is tight. I splurged for a Margot Woods seminar that was a once in a lifetime around here, and was not disappointed in the way my money was spent. Any proven obedience trainers that are putting on seminars around here, while not geared specifically towards behavioral problems, would really be worth seeing. See the more the dog is concentrating on his partnership with you, the less he is worried about defending himself or you, because he/she knows you have it under control. It requires socialization combined with obedience and follow up on the trainer/handler's part to get that going. Obedience is the starting part of allowing that to happen. I know, I questioned it too when I started, all the "pretty" walking. But working at it, I noticed it did start to modify my dogs behavior the more exacting that I was on the hows and whys of obedience.

    7) Why did you choose the IACP (International Association of Canine Professionals) to get your certification? Have you heard of any good dog training schools?

    Actually, I am not certified yet from IACP. I just became a professional status member last year. This only means you have so many years of experience, and have met other professional requirements (years in business ET). IACP has great certified exams, and one that I should have filled out by now LOL. They are at work on a guild system as well right now, in other words a master trainer program. I have heard that Triple Crown (and have seen an amazing student from there) is one of the best to go to. If you have the time and money to take some time off, that one is supposed to be good. I have heard living conditions are a bit iffy. I can't take that time off, or pay the tuition fee. So I have gone the direction of apprenticing with another trainer at DRU (Doberman Rescue). There are draw backs to that as well, if you just think about some of the strange characters in dog training . Very talented people, but a bit bizarre and socially challenged amongst the humans. There are free apprentice positions that you may find, or paid apprentice positions. I don't really feel experienced enough yet to have an apprentice. I chose IACP as they are one of maybe two professional organizations (NADOI---National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors-- is the other) that has a more open mind on training, and has not been completely overtaken by PP (supposed Purely Positive Politics). APDT (Association of Pet Dog Trainers), for instance, is heavily influenced by the PP influence. There is not much to learn there (APDT) IMO. IACP, while it does have conflicts within the ranks, has really good senior members available. Margot Woods, Martin Deeley, are among some of my favorites, and I have taken seminars with both of them. I really love that their exams are not multiple choice, but records of your work that are reviewed. Also that there is emphasis on your achievements within the dog world. I was pointed there by the people that I had met early on, and it has been a good reference point for me. I was also a member of the APDT for a time, but dropped the membership a few years ago. It really did nothing for me.

    Maine and New Hampshire Dog Training, providing New Hampshire Dog Training clients and Maine Dog Training clients with assistance.
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    Thursday, March 28, 2013

    Dog Grooming and Maintenance At Least Weekly (Republished)

     Food, shelter, affection, exercise and veterinary care are the well known basic needs of your pet.   Many owners forget or neglect grooming most of which should be done once a week, and some of which should be done daily.   Grooming is not only about how your dog looks, but also relates to their health, comfort, and physical well being.


    Long haired dogs can develop very painful mats and tangles in their fur.  To leave a coat in this condition and then drop them off at a groomers like that is animal neglect and abuse.   Law does not define this that way except maybe in extreme cases, but animals having hair mats feel much pain from this.   Some long hair dogs need their coats combed out every day or so, while shorter hair dogs could use it every week.   Long coats are sometimes best shaved or trimmed by a groomer or yourself with proper instruction.   Hot months can be tough on dogs blessed with luxurious coats.    It will also keep down the brushing maintenance on high up keep type dogs.


    Short haired dogs are very uncomfortable carrying all that excess dead hair around.   Brushing out their coat weekly gets rid of dead hair, dirt, and dead skin that builds up in their coat otherwise.  The owner has an excellent opportunity to examine their dogs for lumps and bumps that may need medical attention or just tweezers.  Additionally, it's a great thing to do before weekly house cleaning chores, as you reduce the source of much loose dust and hair before the vacuuming and dusting commence.


    Bathing is not something that is generally done too often.   Too frequent bathing can cause all sorts of coat and skin problems in dogs by robbing them of their natural oils.   Basically, most pet dogs get bathed when they get really dirty (IE roll in something horrid, or get muddy).   Some human conditions (allergies) can require more frequent bathing.   If this is the case, be sure to keep an eye on your canine companion for signs of discomfort.   Also, check with your vet on the best products to use.


    Dogs nails grow fast.   As they become long, they are uncomfortable for the dog as they walk along the floor.   In extreme cases, the nails curl under and affect the actual gait of the dog making walking or running uncomfortable and not a joy anymore.   Dogs nails should be clipped every week.   White nailed canines are easy to clip, with the proper tools, as you can see the quick.   The quick is an area of the nail where blood runs.   Avoid the quick if you can.   Black nailed dogs are harder to judge.   If you are new at this, you might want to have your vet or groomer demonstrate the best way to do this.


    Wax build up in the ear is a magnet for infection and bacteria.   Cleaning out the ears properly each week, keeps the ear canals clean and generally infection or irritation free.   You want to purchase an ear cleaning solution that dissolves the wax inside the ear, then when the dog shakes his/her head, the wax is shaken to the ear canal and wrinkles in the ear that you can see.   Be sure not to stuff the wax back down the ear canal with whatever you use to clean it out.    Some people use wipes and some people use cotton human ear cleaners.   You just want to carefully remove the build up that has become loosened.


    Another place bacteria and plaque like to grow into infection is the teeth.   Teeth cleaning should actually be done (ideally) daily or even after every feeding.   Be sure that you do not use human toothpaste for this task the chemicals or ingredients will harm your dog.  Pet supply stores sell toothpaste and brushes for dogs.   Be sure to concentrate on the areas where plaque will build, as well as the teeth as a whole.   For instance, the back teeth, gum line, and teeth spaces hold a lot of  residue.


    In addition to the above, successfully being able to groom and care for your dog develops a deeper relationship with your dog.   Grooming is also a time where obedience can be practiced and tightened up on.   Take care of your dogs, they love you so much.

    http://www.mannerlymutts.com
    http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

    Wednesday, March 27, 2013

    Trainer Selection Checklist

    A good working relationship with a dog trainer is very important.   Here are some things that I advise my clients and other dog owners to check into:

    Education:
    1. Seminars attended,and when.
    2. How did they get in the field.
    3. What was the foundation of their learning experience before opening their doors.
    4. Certifications acquired and from what organizations.
    5. What professional memberships do they belong to. Different memberships offer different services and education.
    ****International Association of Dog Trainers (IACP) and National Association of Dog Obedience Instructions (NADOI) are the two certificates that I think carry the most weight. If there is a behavioral certificate in their resume, if they are a trainer there should also be a certificate from those organizations or possibly the APDT. I put less weight on the APDT certificate as it's a multiple choice exam, whereas the others are at least a written demonstration of the knowledge of the dog trainer that is usually evaluated by a board of senior dog trainers.
    Experience:

    1. Years spent training dogs.
    2. How many dogs trained to date and last 12 months. (an experienced trainer has already trained at least 200-300 dogs in total)
    3. What kinds of breeds have been worked with. A snarky lab is quite different from an aggressive St Bernard. A toy breed with issues, is different than a giant breed with issues.
    4. Do they own a dog? Your perspective becomes quite a bit different if you live with your own dog 24/7. In training pet dogs especially, it's important that your trainer is aware of the day to day with a dog.
    5. Have they owned their own problem dogs, and successfully trained them to be in control? Ditto number 4 on this, you don't get a good sense of a problem dog that you only see for an hour every week. A trainer that has had a dog with issues, is more apt to understand the day to day.
    6. How many sessions do they suggest you take? An experienced obedience trainer will not suggest that one or two sessions will get you a basic trained obedience dog. Most problem issues, unless they are super simple, are not addressed in two or three sessions either. The minimum that I will sell a client is 6, and I tell clients it takes about 12 sessions, if you are going from zero to get a dog trained in basic obedience skills.
    7. How do they use private and group sessions? Good trainers know that if you are starting from point zero, group sessions are not going to help you very much, unless they are super tiny (the number of students that is, not the size of the dog). A knowledgeable trainer should let you get your dogs trained up to distraction first, before suggesting group classes, even though they are "cheaper".
    8. Can they explain how age and physical factors can influence a training program and a dog's patience level if they are experiencing issues?
    9. What different kinds of dog issues have they dealt with in the past?
    10. Have they and can they train a dog to reliable off leash ability?
    11. Are they married to one method in their tool box, or have they learned about and used many methods and tools? What is their decision making process for what tools and methods that they would work with you on?
    12. What are their and do they have safety protocols?
    13. How intelligently can they talk about tools, methods, and a plan for you and your dog?
    14. Where and when have they worked or volunteered at other places having to do with handling or training dogs?
    15. If they can't help you, do they have referrals of more experienced trainers. Vet referrals. What would make them send you to those referrals.
    16. Do they offer more than "puppy play and socialize" or "manners" type of classes?
    Plans for Continued Education:

    1. Seminars that are planned to be attending, from who, and for what.
    2. Skills or additional dog sports being worked on.
    3. Areas that they see them selves wanting to learn more in.
    4. What other trainers do they admire or want to emulate? (be sure to look these up, and read their literature and articles that are out there)
    ****Key, this should easily come to the trainer's mind. Good trainer's are always honing their skill set.

    Articles and Portfolio:

    1. There should be articles available written by the dog trainer themselves.
    2. Their should be still pictures of dogs being worked with in obedience exercises. If you are looking at an obedience trainer, you don't just want to see cute pictures of client's dogs or client's dogs doing tricks, you want to see what you are hoping to achieve.
    3. Video of work or end result. Ditto number 2 above.

    Some Proof of Ability to Train Dogs:
    1. Clients that are referrals and can be called on.
    2. Letter referrals from clients.
    3. Obedience type competition titles. (not solely agility titles if what you are looking for is basic obedience). You want a trainer that keeps this somewhat current in either their own dogs, or the successes of their clients in obedience sports.
    4. Free consultations are available, especially to problem dogs. You should be able to view the trainer and the areas that you will be training in.
    5. The trainer should be able to demo their own dog on the skills that you wish to learn.
    6. Do they have a resume available.


    Need your dog trained? Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com services page. Or contact me at 207-361-4395 in York Maine. Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.


    Say no to HSUS, PETA, No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC) or Truly Dog Friendly Organization (TDF). Articles and information on why I do not support these organizations is on here and here.



    Tuesday, March 26, 2013

    Unfriendly Canine Legislation Trends




    Above is Tommy (admiring blond Bella), who needed to get out of Switzerland due to the current climate in canine law design and breed specific legislation.
    Ah, for the days of blissful ignorance as a child running through the fields and woods with my Labrador/Beagle mix, Major.  Life was a simple pleasure then not weighed down with worries about the declining rights of dog owners.  Legislation is not discriminating these days regarding the rights of responsible dog owners vs. the rights of irresponsible dog owners.   They are the same with the laws banning breeds, muzzling breeds, limits on number of dogs owned, eliminating parks for leashed dogs, and making off leash access almost non existent.


    In 2003 professional dog enthusiast Internet boards were talking about the legislation trend sweeping many nations, including our own states.  Many thought the alarmists were Henny Penny types.   Many dog enthusiasts could not believe the sky was actually falling or to continue would continue it's fall.   Instead it was believed that these isolated trends would soon go away.   Unfortunately, the fallout from this has not stabilized into more reasoned actions or stopped altogether the way many hoped it would.

    Some examples of this:

    ·       September 2010 Worcester Massachusetts City Council members approve legislation requiring the so-called "pit bull" breed to be muzzled outside of their homes and/or property.  The specifics are to general to list, and the actual new ordinance is not out there in public yet.   April 1st of 2011 is when this new rule will take affect.
    ·       Worcester Massachusetts does not allow dogs in parks leashed or not.  (Paragraph 14 and unless a service dog)
    ·       The infamous HEART legislation of Albuquerque New Mexico.  Your dog must be on an eight-foot leash in this city any time you are not in your house OR in your own fenced in yard.   Yard doesn't have a fence?  Dog gets to enjoy time on 8' leash in your own yard.   Not a long line or flexi, but at the most 8'of fun.
    ·       Pawtucket Rhode Island has banned the so-called "pit bull" breed.
    ·       Ontario Canada not only bans breeds, but it is totally okay for the dog warden on his authority alone to confiscate and kill dogs.
    ·       No dogs on many if not all New Hampshire State parks leashed or not.
    Here is the bottom line, the hysteria and continued deluge of animal legislation and banning of breeds is not slowing down nor will it in the near future.   That is, unless dog owners, citizens, victims of irresponsible dog owners, and legislators really start to get a clue.   The individuals following the example of Henny Penny were NOT wrong.  Sky still continues to rain down on the rights of responsible dog owners.  The warnings went largely unheeded and still are not paid attention to by the dog owning contingent, unless it crops up in their community or affects their breed.   The trick would be to be proactive and block this kind of legislation and make the legislation seem very silly to introduce in the first place.  A proactive approach has been started but needs to be encouraged in the dog community to expand beyond the professionals in the dog field.  
    Here are some contributors to the current climate in dog law legislation:
    ·       Dog owners who do not really want dogs, and do not care for their dogs and the surrounding environment properly.
    o      Do not pick up their dog's waste.
    o      Allow their dog to roam the neighborhood freely.
    o      Do not properly train or socialize their dog.
    o      Neglect their dog.
    o      Excuse or deny issues that they are having with their dogs until something happens.  Sometimes not even then.
    o      Allow their dog to indiscriminately run up to humans or dogs that may not want their attentions.
    o      Allows their dog to create noise pollution in the neighborhood.
    o      Do not spend time with and/or exercise their dog on a regular basis.
    o      Does not allow their dogs to be mentally challenged.
    ·       A climate of "science" (not so much, and not what general public would assume it to be) in dog training, veterinarian practice, and animal behavior professionals that no longer recognizes dogs as individual in temperament, size, strength, age, and prior experience.  The art of dog training to a reliable standard where a shared communication develops the relationship of trust and partnership is slowly and surely being lost, when it is needed the most.
    ·       Irresponsible dog ownership that threatens the safety and well being of the public as well as family members.
    ·       The diminishing of areas where dogs can go to socialize makes it guaranteed that fewer dogs would be socialized.   Keep in mind what correct socialization really is.
    ·       Dog owners, who own large "power breeds", who do not recognize their duty and responsibility to be the best ambassador possible for their pure or mixed breed.
    Here are some actions that may help protect our rights if implemented in a careful and knowledgeable way:
    ·       Dangerous dog legislation needs to put management steps for the handling or disposal of the dog and keeping them safe within the environment.   However irresponsible dog owners or custodians need to be fined, penalized, or jailed as well.  So many irresponsible people could either care less that their dog may be put to death or may be a danger unchecked to others alive, untrained, and unsupervised.   Real consequences to the owner would, hopefully, in the place and reduce the likelihood of an irresponsible owner choosing to get a canine in the first place.
    ·       An irresponsible dog owner liable under legislative fines, penalties, or jail time needs to be defined thoroughly but carefully.
    ·       Off leash access should be given to responsible dog owners who can demonstrate their training work with their dog to a certain standard.   Also, the dog and owner should be able to pass temperament tests before off leash access is given.   Perhaps also a written exam to test whether owners know when off leash would be acceptable in a common sense way and not acceptable by use of common sense.  In this way, dog owners who are want to or are responsible can regain their right and privilege back.
    ·       Related to above, insist on standards being able to be demonstrated and proven in the dog training industry.   If certification and licensing is later needed, insist that the traditional obedience (off lead) tests that have been available through the AKC for very many years are the measure to which a professional dog trainer is held.   Dog trainers should be held to a higher standard than a simple Canine Good Citizen, Rally, or Therapy Dog Certificate.  
    ·       As a dog owner, always take the responsible and right action.   Keep in mind of the surrounding people, and give them no real reason to fear your dog.  The less ammunition out there the better. Prepare and train your dog to be calm and sure of themselves in all public areas.
    There are probably more points I could make on the causes and possible solutions of the not-dog-friendly legislation that is sweeping the world like wildfire.   Hopefully, this is enough for dog owners present and future to consider.
    MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING BLOG