Some video highlights of Stormy's time here

Stormy's first days here:






Stormy and Boris:







Stormy and Leon:




Stormy playing hide and seek:




Stormy and her favorite toys:




Stormy's best puppy buddy, Dudley:







Stormy and Jet:






Stormy and Daycare:

Proactive vs Reactive, Thinking Around Corners for Your Dog

A common mistake that a lot of dog owners make, is to wait until a situation is out of control before seeking to control it.   Signals and signs are not recognized or ignored for far too long.   This can makes situations that were easy to solve and prevent in the present, instead become big behavioral problems in the future.

To me being a reactive human dog owner is one that has missed opportunities to calmly and gently get potential problems under control in the past.   Because the owner has not been leading the way and allowing their dog to feel safe, the dog starts to make some decisions and actions that us, humans, won't be totally happy with.   When the opportunity to correct this has been missed in the past, it appears to force the humans into a reactive role.   To your dog this does not command respect or obedience, because the human appears unbalanced or terribly inconsistent in their rules and communication.  Remember reactivity is something that appears to come out of the blue for absolutely no reason to the canine companion.

Being proactive is more about knowing your dog and preparedness.   It's also about not glossing over behaviors that can become problems in the future.   Even if they are cute and not problems now, the proactive owner will find training and/or management solutions to proactively prevent something from getting worse or happening at all.

As in poker, certain dogs have "tells" when they are about to react.   My puppy, Boris, wags his tail very fast if he has been told not to do something, but still intends to do it .   For each dog their "tells" are different.    Some people try to major in the minors with strict rules of canine communication, but the truth is that this communication can vary among the individual personalities of dogs.   Statistical generalities can be made to try and predict future reactions, but remember that dogs are individuals.   One dogs striping along the back can be aggressive, while anther's can be excitement at meeting an old friend.

You can use what you know about your dog and their "tells" to correctly navigate them around corners.   For instance, if you dog pricks their ears and tries to stare down a dog before becoming reactive, you can use this in your training program to redirect that interest to obedience and calmness instead (with the right trainer, of course).

The proactive dog owner prevents future problems from occurring.   The reactive dog owner flirts with the dangerous possibilities of not being prepared in the future.   Which one are you?

http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com/

Dog Grooming and Maintenance At Least Weekly (Republished)

 Food, shelter, affection, exercise and veterinary care are the well known basic needs of your pet.   Many owners forget or neglect grooming most of which should be done once a week, and some of which should be done daily.   Grooming is not only about how your dog looks, but also relates to their health, comfort, and physical well being.


Long haired dogs can develop very painful mats and tangles in their fur.  To leave a coat in this condition and then drop them off at a groomers like that is animal neglect and abuse.   Law does not define this that way except maybe in extreme cases, but animals having hair mats feel much pain from this.   Some long hair dogs need their coats combed out every day or so, while shorter hair dogs could use it every week.   Long coats are sometimes best shaved or trimmed by a groomer or yourself with proper instruction.   Hot months can be tough on dogs blessed with luxurious coats.    It will also keep down the brushing maintenance on high up keep type dogs.


Short haired dogs are very uncomfortable carrying all that excess dead hair around.   Brushing out their coat weekly gets rid of dead hair, dirt, and dead skin that builds up in their coat otherwise.  The owner has an excellent opportunity to examine their dogs for lumps and bumps that may need medical attention or just tweezers.  Additionally, it's a great thing to do before weekly house cleaning chores, as you reduce the source of much loose dust and hair before the vacuuming and dusting commence.


Bathing is not something that is generally done too often.   Too frequent bathing can cause all sorts of coat and skin problems in dogs by robbing them of their natural oils.   Basically, most pet dogs get bathed when they get really dirty (IE roll in something horrid, or get muddy).   Some human conditions (allergies) can require more frequent bathing.   If this is the case, be sure to keep an eye on your canine companion for signs of discomfort.   Also, check with your vet on the best products to use.


Dogs nails grow fast.   As they become long, they are uncomfortable for the dog as they walk along the floor.   In extreme cases, the nails curl under and affect the actual gait of the dog making walking or running uncomfortable and not a joy anymore.   Dogs nails should be clipped every week.   White nailed canines are easy to clip, with the proper tools, as you can see the quick.   The quick is an area of the nail where blood runs.   Avoid the quick if you can.   Black nailed dogs are harder to judge.   If you are new at this, you might want to have your vet or groomer demonstrate the best way to do this.


Wax build up in the ear is a magnet for infection and bacteria.   Cleaning out the ears properly each week, keeps the ear canals clean and generally infection or irritation free.   You want to purchase an ear cleaning solution that dissolves the wax inside the ear, then when the dog shakes his/her head, the wax is shaken to the ear canal and wrinkles in the ear that you can see.   Be sure not to stuff the wax back down the ear canal with whatever you use to clean it out.    Some people use wipes and some people use cotton human ear cleaners.   You just want to carefully remove the build up that has become loosened.


Another place bacteria and plaque like to grow into infection is the teeth.   Teeth cleaning should actually be done (ideally) daily or even after every feeding.   Be sure that you do not use human toothpaste for this task the chemicals or ingredients will harm your dog.  Pet supply stores sell toothpaste and brushes for dogs.   Be sure to concentrate on the areas where plaque will build, as well as the teeth as a whole.   For instance, the back teeth, gum line, and teeth spaces hold a lot of  residue.


In addition to the above, successfully being able to groom and care for your dog develops a deeper relationship with your dog.   Grooming is also a time where obedience can be practiced and tightened up on.   Take care of your dogs, they love you so much.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Getting Another Dog? Preparation and Training Required.

The acquisition of an additional dog in the home can happen for a variety of reasons. The most common reason is the idea that the existing dog needs a canine companion. One human family member may want a companion that is more their special friend than another’s. An active family member may now need a younger dog to do certain activities with. A lot of good reasons exist for the introduction of a new canine member into one's home. Be aware though, this often comes with work to maintain a harmonious relationship between the two.




The fantasy or expectation is that the dogs will get along famously, if all goes well in the pre adoption or purchase meeting. Owners assume that little work or oversight will be needed to keep the initial relationship as is. Likewise, if a dog dislikes another dog on the first day, it's assumed they will never get along. Either case could end up as expected MAYBE, but there is a lot more at play than the first impression. Also, in general, potential owners assume if they get a young puppy, that puppy will grow into his/her position without conflict. This is also not necessarily true. So many factors will influence how a multiple dog relationship goes. If owners are given the right tools and knowledge, this relationship can work out an amicably. There are very few cases in which a situation is just not going to work with work and preparation.



When returning home with the additional canine companion, here are some steps to take and things to think about:

1. Only adopt any dog when you have the time, energy, and resources to care for them properly. Adopting dogs during stressful times such as the holidays or personal stress is never a good idea.

2. The incumbent dog should have a skill set to a standard in basic training. Dogs will not know via osmosis or intuition what you want them to "not do". It is so much easier to have a way to tell them to do something. Two untrained dogs coming together is a bad idea.

3. Training the additional dog should start immediately and separately from the incumbent dog.

4. Total freedom for a new dog should never be allowed whether they are the first dog or the next dog.

5. Start off on the right foot with boundaries and rules in place for both dogs.

6. Know how to read your incumbent dog's signals in body language and mannerisms. Observe and start to know the language of the canine addition. It may well be drastically different, and with time and care, you will begin to know this dog as well.

7. If you are not sure what you are looking at, assume the worst. Always better safe than sorry.

8. Do not leave them alone unsupervised. It's really important to fully know both dogs in the multiple dog context AND the ability of the dogs to resolve conflicts BEFORE even thinking of leaving them alone unsupervised. Some breed fanciers will not leave their dogs alone unsupervised.

9.  Transporting home-Either pick up the next dog without your incumbent dog present OR be sure to have a crated area in the car for transport home.   Nothing worse than driving along with two dogs that are not sure they like each other yet.


It is important to look for things that stand out and suggest that an amicable relationship is just NEVER going to occur.

1. Dogfights that show a total lack of bite inhibition or bites in dangerous areas.

2. Absolutely no signs of like or affection for the other canine. I am not talking about dogs that amicably ignore each other until the relationship is established; I am talking about where it's real obvious that there are going to be NO friendly interactions.

Special training considerations in multi-dog homes:

1. Commands-I use this general rule in my multi dog household. Commands not started with the dog's name, mean that all dogs in my voice range are expected to obey (or at least the ones that have been trained on this rule). Commands that start with a name, mean that specific dog needs to obey the command.

2. Release words-Release words that start without a dog's name first, mean all dogs within my voice range may release. Release words that start with a specific dog's name, mean that only the dog indicated may release.

3. Both 1 and 2 are things that must be taught to your dogs thru training exercises.

4. Remember a small altercation turns into large problems if not dealt with quickly. If you don't know what to do, seek professional help immediately. It will save you a lot of headaches and/or heartaches.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com/
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Tips for Bonding with Adult Rescue Dogs

I have had three rescued Dobermans. Two of them were two years old when they came here, and one of them was weeks old, Boris. Our first dog was a three year old female Doberman that we bought from a breeder, when we were checking out her puppies.

Our first dog, Jazz, did not think my husband was the center of her universe at first (for a good three months or so while we figured it out). Our fourth dog, Jackie CD, did not bond with my husband for six months (he had been returned for this several times after not bonding quickly to other men). Whether it was Jazz and Jackie CD or the hundreds of dogs that come through, my love for dogs has nothing to do with them instantly accepting me.

Here are some steps that can make a rescue relationship go more smoothly:

1. A dog's previous history does not equal the potential of the dog. Though they may need some time and patience, dogs do very well going forward into their future, generally.
2. Each dog is an individual. You can not expect a new dog to replicate your relationship with a deceased or another dog. Realizing the individuality of the dog and appreciating it, is a first step towards your bond.
3. A dog may gravitate towards one member of the family at first, especially if that member spends more time with them. The family member that feels unbonded may want to spend a few weeks doing most of the things with the dog, while the other (super bonded) family member downplays their role until bonding begins.
4. Dogs have their own special interests. It is important to find out what interests your dog AND PARTICIPATE IN THAT ACTIVITY WITH THEM.
5. Generally speaking, it is a rare dog that won't bond with you, eventually.
6. IMHO it's a myth that a dog that doesn't bond  quickly or immediately will be apt to be more aggressive or harder to train.
7. While most dogs generally give their heart unreservedly, some dogs need to trust their owner first to not only supply their basic necessitities but to be there and keep them safe for the long term.
8. Not all dogs thrive mostly on treats and cuddling on the couch. In fact, I think most dogs thrive with owner participation in adventures, training, and exercise.
9. Some dogs with physical discomfort may feel discomfort with some types of handling.
10. Realize it is not all about the human owner, the dog is an individual and living entity that does not live solely for our pleasure.
11. Training is a way of creating a communication venue that will allow trust and understanding to develop between a dog and their owner.
12. Do not go too fast with the dog. The only one who realizes this is a long term arrangement is the human. Most dogs won't be totally comfortable with 100% familiarity. Hugging, kissing, and rough housing are best to do after you know your dog well.
13. Related to #12 having rules, even if you don't keep them in the future, is best to do when first meeting an adult dog. Limited or no access to furniture, no excessive treating, and supervised playing.

Remember rescuing is about appreciating dogs of all types and temperaments, and being able to help them as well as offer them a place to exist.


Maine and New Hampshire Dog Trainer
Mannerly Mutts Blogspot

My Valentine's Hope for Homeless Dogs

It seems these days there is a push for adoptions of dogs around every holiday.   This is a bad idea, as it pushes the idea of what great presents pets make for the unsuspecting girlfriend, boyfriend, mother, father, son, or daughter who may not be prepared for the responsibilities of pet ownership.   It may also be an impulse and misguided attempt for an individual to bring some good cheer into the holiday season without fully exploring what "rescue" or "adoption" of a pet means.

Penny Eims of examiner.com just did a piece entitled "I am a dog, not a thing".  Something very important is missing from that article, however.  This is something most dog owners don't grasp and understand how this benefits both dogs and owners.  Dogs need food, shelter, affection, exercise, veterinary care, grooming, and so forth.   Training is so often overlooked.   I should emphasize here training to a standard, and that standard is to be trained to such a degree that a dog can be worked around distractions by completing the command on the first command 4 out of five times.  Also so that training improves the socialization of dogs around other humans and dogs.  See my article on socialization before assuming what that means.

Training in general is very important to dogs in specific.

• It is mentally stimulating.   Imagine you did the same thing everyday, even if it was fun.  Or you were regulated to the same tv show everyday.  Dogs get bored too.  Regardless of whether they are likely to act out on their boredom or not, to provide your dog with the best life possible, training gets them doing new and different things.  Just like humans need variety as the spice of life, so do dogs.
• How often do we think if only we could tell our dogs that?   Training done right is a way to make that partly possible.   The end result of training is a system of communication between two different species.   Don't forget, training does not always have to be obedience commands.  
• Increased bonding between the dog and human.   An owner really gets to know their dog when they train, and the dog likewise gets to know more about their owner.   This is usually a good thing .  Training with your dog can increase the bond rather than just having a walking and napping buddy.

Why are standards in training, or training to a specific standard and goal important:

• Besides irresponsible breeding, the lack of training given to canine companions is a leading cause of dogs being brought to shelters from their previous homes.  Often if the owners were caring and loving, they have no idea what a training standard could have done for their relationship with their dog.
• Doing this and starting out with a puppy will eliminate about 80% of potential problem behaviors that could develop without such training.
• If a dog has behavioral problems, training to a standard will at the least improve the behavior and the relationship between the dog and owner.  For some dogs, it will totally reverse the behavioral challenges that they once had.
• The ability to communicate with your dog, make the dog owners life easier in the process, and do more things with your dog at more places where they are actually welcomed!
• Increased ability to exercise in freedom without constraints or restraints.

Thus my Valentine's hope for homeless dogs are the following:

• Owner's who adopt you have researched, thought about, and carefully considered the responsibilities of providing YOU with the happiest life possible (and not just considered how you will make THEM happy).
• Owner's who adopt you are willing and able to provide you with shelter, food, veterinary care, grooming, exercise, and all the other essential necessities you need.
• Owner's who adopt or rescue you, realize that dogs are not perfect or stuffed animals, that you may have medical and temperament needs outside the scope of a perfectly behaved pet.  
• Owner's who adopt or rescue you, also realize their repsonsibility to the non dog owning or dog fearful public, by presenting you as an ambassador for dogs everywhere in a safe and responsible manner.
• Owner's who adopt or rescue you, realize how scary it is to be lost and the possible consequences to you of being allowed to run off.
• Owner's who adopt or rescue you have a game plan should you not end up being the perfect pet for their family NOW, or a dog that they just can not handle.
• Owner's who adopt you realize that you do not know what is poison and not poisin in the house (and probably never will on your own).
• Owner's who adopt you realize that dirt comes in on the feet of dogs.   That the house will require more picking up after.
• Owner's who adopt you realize that all dogs make accidents in the house at some point.   It is the owner's responsibility not only to clean up, but to teach you the right place to go by housetraining.   There is a reason why "training" exists in housetraining.
• Owner's who adopt you will appreciate spending much time with you (outside, inside, in the car, at the park, at family events, on family vacations...).
• Owner's who adopt you either know how to train a dog to a standard, know where to find resources to help them train to a standard or are willing to research and find resources to help them train to a standard.
• Owner's who adopt puppies know that puppies need early training, and this makes it far less likely that the situation will work out later in life.

Not ready for dog or cat ownership?   There are still ways that you can contribute and benefit dogs, puppies, cats, and kittens in rescue:

• Check shelter and rescue wishlists to see if you can donate anything.
• Money donations to shelters that you know are doing a good job, are always welcome.   Do become familiar with the shelters in your area, and be wary before sending cash out to shelters outside your area (I am sure scams are going on) or to PETA and HSUS who surely do not fund shelters and rescues.
• Shelters who do screening need volunteers to check out potential homes and adopters.
• Local shelters can use the help of volunteers to provide their adoptees with exercise and interaction.

Potential and future dog and/or cat owners, please make my Valentine's hope come true by adopting responsibly, and only after truly thinking about the responsibilities involved.  This is why I do not get involved in the push to promote going to a shelter on a specific month or holiday.   I just do not believe this attracts the most responsible owners, and dogs deserve the best homes they can get.   They really do.


http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com/
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Does a Dog Need to Be Idiot Proof?

Or should idiots own dogs? Much like having children, it is impossible to mandate that only parents who will be responsible and compassionate can have children. I am sure that we all wish we could mandate it, but we can't.

Even so, people who can not make responsible choices and look out for the living and breathing beings in their home should not own goldfish nevermind a dog IMHO. Perhaps even a cactus would be too much for someone who is irresponsible and possibly too narcistic to care properly for a dog.

Maybe I am an odd duck, but the individuality of dogs is why I like them. Working through different problems with them is such a lifechanging and rewarding accomplishment for the human. Since we humans have decided to domestic dogs, cats, and other animals; I believe it's our solemn responsibiity to provide not only food, exercise, shelter, and medical care----but to provide for their emotional well being as well.

I am of the opinion that if I decide to take a dog into my home, and let's say they are not quite what I expected....it's my responsibility to make them fit in. That is unless my family or myself are in immediate and real danger from the dog. In picking or rescueing this dog, I have made a commitment and a promise to them. It's totally my job to make it work for the dog (or cat or fish or ferrett...).

If the dog is fearful of people, I can't say something like "wow I don't feel comfortable keeping people at a distance from this dog". Isn't that a horribly selfish and self serving statement? If you could keep everyone safe just by being assertive, one wouldn't do that for the good of their dog?

I feel it's my responsibility not only to keep people safe, but to win the trust of this dog so that they will be more accepting of people. If the dog has a medical problem, it's my job to try and solve that for the dog. If the dog does not have as much energy as I expected, it's my job to make sure the dog has some sort of stimulation during the day.

Many people are not idiots about dogs. And I personally don't think of the public that does not know any better around dogs as idiots. They are just people that need the explanation that not every dog wants to be dashed up to, cornered, and petted. Education to the public is another great reason for working with a dog that may not be "bomb proof", as opposed to idiot proof. An idiot to me is someone who lets the collar grow into the dogs neck, or forgets to feed their dog regularly, or just has never taken their dog to the vet. Perhaps that is even worse than an idiot, but someone totally without regard for the well being of another life. They IMO should never own dogs.

Requiring rescues to be "idiot proof" is like requiring bred dogs to be idiot proof. And now you go down the slippery slope of culling or making lifers of most adult rescue dogs. I am not a fan of culling in eithr bred dogs or rescue dogs. I also do not recognize a difference in the two, other than the support of the breeder and stacking your odds in terms of temperament and health (which are important). However, so many environmental or accidental things can happen to change the course of a dog or puppy's personality.

I would like to think that one positive and outside influence that could change a dog's life for the better is the new owner or foster home. Instead of requiring these dogs to have no flaws at all, perhaps celebrating and embracing those flaws is the answer?

Xmas Impulse Purchased Puppies by Robert Rubin

Here at Mannerly Mutts-we love our clients and we love our business. We also like to be able to continue what we love by being paid. That being said, right now is always are least favorite time of the year. This is the time of the year that the impulse purchases made as an Xmas suprise for the family start their training.

Actually what happens most times is when the first lesson fails to deliver a stuffed animal that rarely comes to life (and only when it's wanted to come to life), and normal puppy behavior is the order of the day....
The once joyously greeted puppy is sent uncerimonously back to the rescue. When ideas of having their three year old do all the training with the puppy is not feasible, when it becomes clear that puppies need to be pottied and fed regularly, when it is realized that the five children and two jobs does not provide enough time for puppy care---puppies start re-entering the institutions that they were formerly "rescued" from.

I say every year from February to May it's a fifty fifty shot for first time owned and impulse purchased puppies. It actually takes quite an emotional toll on us, as we would like to save them all. We have a duty to our own dogs and ongoing clients to remain focused and attentive to our responsibilities though. We also lack the financial resources to self fund a non profit venture, though we are considering it to turn out trained and adoptable dogs whose owners fail them.

This time of year is worse than any other time of year due to the shear volume of impulse purchases. Normally, we would screen out these clients right away for our own emotional health. The economy right now though...it doesn't seem wise to turn away business even if there is a slim chance that the owners are going to step up to the plate.

I know my wife would just prefer to take this time off from training rather than try to get through to the impulse purchasing public.

A bad decision made is not one that may affect only your family, which I find extremely sad for the children's and dog's sakes. Your bad decision can affect all sorts of people all the way down the line. Don't purchase living things by impulse.



Maine and New Hampshire Dog Training

Mannerly Mutts Blog

Nicole Wilde New Dog Search Begins, But What Happened to The Moment of Zen?

On my the website of accumlated blogs, where most dog trainers there make a little spit up lodge in my throat, Nicole Wilde happily reports BEGINNING her search for a new dog since Mojo died in September 2008. Wait though did we forget a little moment of Zen that happened after Mojo died?

Now Nicole's previous problems with Zen the puppy German Shepherd, as reported in this linked blog, was that as an experienced and renowned dog trainer (or thought so by some IMO very niave people), she was caught unaware by the activity level of a German Shepherd puppy. She was also alarmed that when unmuzzled and having an injured claw removed that the puppy made a move for the veterinarian (I must have missed the memo that dogs can not feel NOR should not react to pain). I know, shocking and clearly an unbalanced dog by those two reportings or "excuses".

Now Nicole Wilde is on the hunt for a new victim, er dog or puppy. If only an alert could be sent out to rescues who are going to be thrilled to have her scope out their dogs/puppies, sigh. Here is the advice that I will be sending out to her:

1. Please consider NOT getting a dog and/or puppy if you do not have the time and energy to spend with him.


2. Please communicate to the shelter what your needs are. They could have a normal puppy with normal energy that may be too much for you. English Mastiff puppies are the closest that I have seen with a low energy threshold. Don't expect them to come clean, if you don't come clean with your limitations.


3. Since you are a professional, please make a decision soundly so as to not further traumatize another rescue dog like Zen. Knowing that he was having a hard time with relocating so many times, it was totally irresponsible of you to take him. While you might think you did him no great harm, who knows where he went next and how that further bouncing around affected him.

Also you might want to scan through all my blog posts tagged "before you adopt".

Thanks,

>Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Jackie and I at York Maine's Art in The Park

Behavioral Bends

Every shelter, rescuer, trainer, and adopter of an adult shelter dog should know about behavioral bends. The article attached is by Julia McDonough (posted under her old married name). The basic message is that dogs are not always WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get). Dogs may show unexpected behaviors weeks or months after you adopt them. This does not always mean that the owner has done something terribly wrong!! In fact, what it may mean is that the dog is only now comfortable showing you this part of themselves. Dogs need to scope out the situation first. For trainers, this is especially important because a problem can not always be diagnosed over the phone or from even a day one consult.

For instance, our resident guest, Mr Hoobie, who I have been talking regularly about. Thankfully, I have a detailed history of Mr Hobbinators behaviors. So from day one, I have known what to look for. Now some of these behaviors have not surfaced until week 6. Those specifically being aggression from a distance on moving body parts (like if you are moving the computer mouse with your hands or even reaching for another dog to be petted 20' away). This first showed up three days ago, when my husband went to pet Jack, and Hoobie let out a low growl and stare. Then this morning, he growled at me when I moved my hand from the keyboard to the mouse. These are things that I had wished might NEVER show their face again, but I am well aware of behavioral bends. It's not that common or uncommon. It's not always negative. It's like when six weeks later a dog just starts to show you that they are a playing fool. Hannah, another Springer, didn't make it clear that she loved to play with other dogs for six months (she boarded with us after training, and showed absolutely no interest in playing until six months later---that is except with her sister Katie). That's a positive behavioral bend, she needed to feel comfortable enough around the packs that developed here to show that side.

Just ends up being another thing about Hoobie that is tough. I have been brushing off my clothes, using my mouse liberally, petting my dogs, and petting him for five plus weeks now, and on week 6 he chooses to show me it on his own. I don't know how much of a stink he is going to put up regarding not being allowed to do it. I am glad it's here now where we still have week 7, and perhaps week 8 to go. The owner is coming down this Monday to start being trained on handling Hoobie, and continuing his training and maintenance once home. He may actually give his owners less of a problem OR he may try to get things "back to his normality" as much as possible.

Any way, it's going to be important information for me. When I get a dog like Hoobie in, I pretend this is MY dog. I have just adopted him from the shelter. The unfair thing is that I do have background info on this dog, unless he has been adopted just days ago and the owner does not know that much about the dog. That's just one of the many things I love about Hoobie's owners, they have been very thorough and thoughtful of telling me what to be aware of.


Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

My Red Boys-Jackie and Leon

I am just realizing that I never did write an Introduction to my Jack CD. Jack was a rescue dog that came to me about three years ago. He was SUPPOSED to be a foster dog. Six months went by, and I realized that I could not send him back to Doberman Rescue Unlimited to find another forever home. Coincidentally, my husband asked me what I would like for my birthday gift!! I said, "Jackie of course."

Why was I having trouble thinking of Jackie in a new home? He is what I will call "quirk infested". Some of these quirks will cost him his life if left unchecked (his need to eat things that do not belong in a canine stomach for instance). Some of these quirks can harm other animals and possibly humans if left unchecked (resource guarding). Some of these quirks will test most dog owners with busy lives (his peeing issues that include submissive pee, marking pee, and his housebreaking I am just have to pee). That was just the tip of the iceberg with Jack. It has taken much training and hard work to make Wacky Jacky into Jack CD, now training for CDX.

Jackie is the second dog showing some aggressive (as average pet owners understand them) behaviors that I have owned. The cause in Jack was completely different than in my other dog, Neptune, who had fearful or defensive dog aggression. Jack is a much more confident sort.

About six months ago, we had an incident between Jack and another dog that resurfaced a bunch of issues between my two dogs, Jack and Leon. I have been working with a strategy to rebuild the relationship between them to where it was when I first got them. Knock on wood, it has been paying off so that the last few days there has been relaxed playing in areas that used to be "the battlefield". Or the places that Jack was not allowed untethered to me for quite awhile first, so I could catch him getting snotty. The first sign of which, he got a time out and, obviously, was not allowed to lunge, jump, snarl, or anything like that.

Jack is the very first dog, that I have personally owned, where the protocol of not being on the furniture, following EVERYONE HUMAN AND CANINE into openings such as doors, waiting back in a stay until released for his meals, and so on became a key feature in his training plan. It really pays off with Jack to pay attention to these details. With Neptune, it was not a confident thing on his part nor bullying really. He was just very very scared that other dogs were going to attack him. They were welcome to his resources LOL. Jack is a very different dog. He's also a very good, sweet, loyal, and loving dog. That is why he wants to please despite what his "limited patience" is telling him to do at the time. That is why Jack is an excellent learner. Even with the smartest and most willing of dogs, it takes time, work, and effort to make these changes.

This morning I woke to two red boys having a great time chasing each other around the bed (a former place of contention). Neither worrying about the rights of the other in reference to the bed or me.

By the way, Jack had graduated for dragging a short leash around the house, to a tab two weeks ago. (Knock on wood) it has been great in the house. And still the training and supervision are not over.... In fact, this is the time to be most alert so that bad habits do not resurface with the privileges that have been allowed.

Having multi dog problems? Mannerly Mutts Dog Training deals with pack behavioral issues. Please call Maine Dog Trainer, Robin Rubin, at 207-361-4395. Or e-mail for your Maine Dog Training needs mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com. Mannerly Mutts Dog Training also serves New Hampshire Dog Training and Massachusetts Dog Training needs.

Magical Days

In working with dogs, there are so many magical days. I normally forget to document most of them. Then there are times where I didn't bother to get the camera, just wanting to stay in the moment. Yesterday was just such a day:)

It started with our boarder and behaviorally challenged, Gigi, waking up. Gigi is so much fun, the very first thing she wants to do each morning is play. Play with doggie companions who are game for such play:) So she tippy tappies around on her toes identifying each playmate and making "inquiries". Gigi is also a student of play, as she had never done it before with a dog. I notice she studies hard what the other dogs are doing, and then tries it herself. I noticed her doing this, when she figured every likes to chase each other. Then she didn't know what came next after she got to them though LOL. Then she started figuring out about boxing, wrestling, and mock mouth fighting.

So yesterday, Leon was fetching my slippers, and it finally clicked to Gigi. You chase the thing, you get the thing, and then you run and get chased. Her and Leon had such a wonderful time doing this. Gigi even brought the slipper back a few times as Leon was trained to do. You have to watch her though, as she is likely to rip and shred, and these were my good slippers:)

Gigi and Jack also got to playing for a little bit. Jack's been teaching her that mock mouth fighting does not mean giving pressure to sharp teeth by whining at her when she is too rough. So Gigi had a heavenly morning right up her alley and gave my dogs a bit of entertainment as well.

Yesterday was a horrid weather day. It started with snow, and by the time Roxy and Harley, two Great Dane clients, needed walking, it was sleeting out. So I put on my boots with the screws in the bottom (works great by the way) and leashed up Leon with his pack on. We walked there with Leon being reintroduced to the concept of heeling to a client's house, as his knees have been doing really well lately. Leon and I got the Great Danes and went down to the beach, which was at low tide.

The dogs really had fun despite the adverse conditions. Well everyone except Roxy who has a horror of all that is damp. She does not do wet, and so she just stuck close by me as Harley and Leon tore up the beach. The good thing about bad weather days, is that the beach is totally empty even at low tide!! My hands were numb by the time we went back, because I had to take the gloves off to get all the dogs leashed up again.

When I went home it was time for training. I did fetch exercises with Jack around the worst distraction I could think of, bread that he couldn't eat while training. I had him also doing fronts through two English muffins lying on the floor, and needed to concentrate on fetch and give while auto sitting and staying next to two muffins. A whole lot of training has been going around things he tends to be an aggressor to Leon over in order to increase his tolerance threshold and obedience threshold around those things. In the meantime, and until a semblance of that goal is reached, he is limited as to his total freedom that he used to have in the house.

Leon was next, and we did his practice retrieve. He understands getting and retrieving keys, gloves, scarves, remote controls, and his toys. Now I am starting working him on a bowl. We also did his freestyle dance moves, which he loves. I think I will start this with Jack as well.

And thus ended a very productive and fun day. All the dogs slept very well that night:)

JACK DAY 6

(Body language. That's Jackie's pissed off but I am not about to do anything look. Leon looks the other way in submission. The empty food bowl and the toy that you can not see are both triggers for Jack.)

What does day 6 mean, it's been six days since Jack put his teeth on Leon! It's important to note, physical examination by a vet is important when your dog starts to act out unexpectedly. Jack is actually just bringing his jerkiness to fruition, but he has been checked for those things (such as thyroid) that can cause behavior to escalate into aggression. Jack is a remarkably healthy dog, but has always been behaviorally challenged.

So as I mentioned, Jack has had a few steps back in his obedience lately. Truth be told, I had so many other things to deal with on Jack, I never fully addressed his resource guarding with dogs that he knows, mainly my Leon. He guards Leon from his dog friends, certain food, certain toys, and if he could get away with it.....me. So now we have come to a zero tolerance policy and started to keep toys ET out that would set Jack off before. The training for open has begun to set off these triggers in Jack. If I stopped Open training, this would not mean that triggers disappear. I may not be able to change this completely for Jack, but I am betting I can greatly improve it for the whole family unit.

Why do this? Why not manage it by simply keeping these things away? It really depends on the dog and what they do. Jack is a bit unusual in that he really digs his heels in about these things. Changing a behavior with him is slow and challenging. The thing that made me think this was very necessary is the day he went after Leon when Leon picked a piece of scrap paper off the floor. I had begun to see Leon's personality get flatter and flatter. Jack was totally trying to break rules that were not to be broken, and this began affecting all of us. So it became time to take on this particular quirk in the personality.

We have eliminated his need to guard and eat socks and/or seaweed for about a year now. His house training peeing, submissive and excited peeing is under control. His marking has re-emerged as he has been restricted more. This is classic Jackie. He has stopped trying to charge or posture at strange dogs on and off leash UNLESS they are running directly at us. He is able to be brought onto the beach in a perfect heel around people, where he used to circle, buck, and twirl to get away. We also managed to get Jackie his Companion Dog title.

Now if I absolutely had to keep Leon and Jack separate during the day, I would. I am not about to fail Jackie. However, if I ask myself if I have gone far enough in Jack's training, I would say no. I know there is room for improvement in Jack's training especially as we strive towards Open and Utility titles. Beyond that though, Jack happens to get lonely if he is kept separate during the day. I think we can improve this relationship again, and at the point I see progress halt, I will give up the ghost.

The problem with Jack is the very inappropriate OVER reaction that can lead to injuries and to fights. He is unable to wield the power of intimidation well without being a bully. The trick is going to be to be able to stop him at the tripping point, or/and prevent the tripping point from happening in the first place.

Jackie is the first dog where it has been absolutely necessary to institute the rules of subordination within the household:

• Allowed on designated dog beds only, no furniture.


• He is the last dog to be fed.


• He is the last dog to be allowed outside or back inside.


• Zero tolerance for any reacting on leash. Jack is that special sort of dog where you hear people saying "he is so better off leash than on". The problem with that statement being, that you probably have a real problem on your hands if your dog will not obey you on leash.


• He sleeps in a crates outside of the bedrooms.


• NILIF (nothing in life is free) is instituted.


• Must have an hour a day of free time with owners to play and exercise.


• Training every single day for both his Open training, and for resource guarding issues.


• Training for some portion of the day with Leon to firm up their relationship again.


• Possible half hour of free time (but not unleashed or muzzled time) with Leon having fun.


• Jack needs to be given rest time of a couple of hours a day away from everyone.


• No longer putting disputed items away when Jack is out.


• Jack is not to bark or dash at door when owners come home.


• Jack is to be brought back into down command if he barks when guests, clients arrive.
  

****Not that he is aggressive in situations with people, but he is incredibly nosy and totally thinks it's his job to greet. The problem is this all comes to self control and reliability when in a command. It also speaks to training him beyond what he is able to handle real life situations better. So now it's my goal that we don't need to scan the house for the food piece or special toy that will put Jackie out of Whackie. It also promotes self control in the ring if he thinks that piece of straw is suddenly his, and another dog goes for it when in a group down stay.

Then there is a training plan that goes with the above. Jack has a half hour of heeling or longe line work a day (this week). He also has his reps of retrieving to do. Separate from the dumbbell, I have also been training him to fetch and give food in the hopes that this sort of thing becomes less novel for him. I am doing various yielding work exercises with him as well.

The muzzle and training collar attached to lead are being alternated. As his body language becomes less tense under restraint, AND he acts stops acting out with these on, then the freedom increases again. It's no joy to do this. It takes a bit of self control on the handler's part, especially when they love their dogs dearly. I miss Jack in the bedroom, but I know this feeling of "over entitlement" is in fact contributing to the acting out on Jack's part. If he was a dog that would bark at the other, and then when that dog retreated the incident was over, that would be one thing. Once the blast off point is reached though, there is nothing the other dog can do to appease Jack. Therefore, it's a matter of quality of life for our other dog as well. Jack totally tries to direct Leon's every move, and watch out if he makes the wrong one. That is unacceptable to me. The fact that it has suddenly blown out of control so easily is a sign that more training needs to be done.

Obedience is a great tool in getting this done. My goal is always to change the behavior, if possible, without having the dog in a command every minute of the day. I will try to discuss this as I go along. Sometimes it means I break out of my routine and take advantage of a situation that I see.

First things first, to get Jack to act well under these situations under restraint. Then we can begin to think about removing the restraints again and back to off leash behavior. Some dogs are so miswired that this does not become possible. In the amount of improvement that we have seen in Jack, however, I do believe that it's just a matter of more work. There are those dogs that just require way more work than other dogs. As long as improvements continue under that work, you are on the right track. With that in mind, I have started using some different methods and techniques with Jack during the exercise which SEEM to be making a difference with the high value resources. I say SEEM, because all bets can still be off when the equipment comes off. Or a dog can figure out the way around it, but normally that means you have let them in some way.

The good thing about Jack is that he is predictable in this. The problem comes in if you don't see what he is going to guard (piece of paper comes to mind). The answer is not to have Leon stop playing with everything. The answer is also not to force Jack into an untenable position that he can't handle. He is a pretty readable dog as well. If he is about to make an aggressive display, he tail twitches very fast (different than a happy wag). His pupils normally dilate as well. He will get flat while walking with his head low to the ground. Leon's demeanor will change to extreme fright and watchfulness. Under restraint, I want Jack's demeanor to start to form into the dog I know he has been and can be even under duress of being around food products and toys that he wants no one else to have.

Then we will see what we can do next.

A Tale of Two Fetch Methods

I have two dogs. One is a well bred puppy from Pamelot Kennels in Georgia. His temperament and drive are stellar. Sadly he came with knees that did were off in their alignment, causing Anterior Cruciate tears. There is surgery to repair this, one knee has been done, and the other knee is about to be done as well. Right now, he is unable to compete in obedience, and though the surgery will improve Leon's movement immensely, it may never loosen up his knees enough to sit comfortably for long periods of time. We will see in about next spring of 2009 when he is recovered.

Jack was puppy store bred (most likely meaning from mills), and tore his way through a few homes quite readily before finding himself at Doberman Rescue. Because he did not warm up quick enough with treats and love, he went through two more homes before he was "returned" yet again. Jack had not yet found the person who truly loved him, for well him. His loyalty, goofiness, clown ways, athletic ability, hunting ability, intelligence, had all gone unnoticed, because he was a difficult boy. I actually do feel sorry for the owners that he went through, that had no idea how to nurture and grow this personality into a partner. My point is, he is a different dog than Leon. I love him for who he is, the same as I love Leon.

With Leon, you can relax and have him run with other dogs, kids, bunnies, butterflies whatever. He should have been my demo dog and competition partner, as he is most suited temperament wise to it. I would have had a lot less work to do. On the other hand, I love the challenge, and Jack loves the work. I have to be very diligent and expect better than I can give in my training regime with Jack. It's more important to him and his mental health than it is to me. Sure, I could simply separate him more from life and not deal with it. "Oh him, that's my socially and behaviorally challenged dog, poor thing, we don't let him out with others". Or we could say "sorry he went after your dog, but dogs will be dogs". We do neither of those things and take our responsibility to Jack very seriously. We also take our responsibility to dog issues, the overall health of dog ownership long term, and the long term health and enjoyment of Jack's life to him.

My way may not seem very fun to you. To me, I enjoy training, the patience, the consistency, the long term improvement it provides to the life of the dog. For me, that's fun. Seeing clients again sitting on a couch with their two dogs that were fighting last year, and knowing that one of those dogs was being considered to be put asleep. Seeing those pictures, and knowing I trained for the real life that dog was going to be living, is the best reward and fun that I can have. The fact that my boarders are all training client based, and I see my old friends often that I formed a very careful bond of partnership with, also priceless. We are able to hang out in a non training environment thanks to the work and maintenance that has gone on with newly informed owners. These dogs were all helped by both my very differently temperamented dogs as well. My success is shared with their partnership with me. It does not always come easily.

Leon still needs something to occupy him whether he is injured or in recovery. I won't allow him to re-injure himself when surgery comes, but there are plenty of on the floor games to play when he is awake and restless. We went through this before last Spring. Recently, since I have been training Jack using the Open Koehler book for retrieve and all the open exercises, I thought what fun it would be to train Leon alternately to pick things up his clumsy owner drops.

These sort of commands are a bit different than recall, heel, or stationary commands. Those commands can stop serious injury to yourself and stop your dog from injuring or killing himself inadvertently. Not just if your near traffic, but the open woods can provide all sorts of dangers (barbed wire, bears, deer---believe it or not can be aggressive during mating season, unexpected terrain with holes in it, et); and so your dog MUST obey. Also, although many behaviorists or people that follow the Purely Positive Political movement don't understand how well developed and reliable commands such as these help in behavior modification, they are the basis of being able to redirect your dog to more appropriate behavior, with your help and partnership, of course. So these commands are not necessarily something your dog needs to learn in a rush, or be stopped from not listening to them regardless.

Leon has begun with picking up his ringy and sticky toys. Once he learned get meant, well pick it up, it was on to the trickier part of having Leon bring back the object. Why is it tricky? Well, I play the chase game with him a lot, as I have known for some time the possibility of him competing will be remote (oh this will be a good pun later for what I have started him doing). So all this time throwing things and picking them up have been followed by a rousing game of chase by me and by the other dogs. There are a couple of ways that I can do this. If he is engaged very much, then if I run away from him he will follow, I slow down, turn say give and be sure the stick or whatever ends up in my hand. Then I throw and we do all over again. Now sometimes, there are other distractions where we are that make his concentration iffy on the job at hand. At those points, introducing treats renews the interest in the game. Like I said with Leon, there is no danger that he is going to start giving anyone any sideways looks as the treats start to flow. Also nice that everyone else involved can join in on the treats (except Jack and Devon who I will speak about at another time).

It's wise to start any training program one on one first. That way you eliminate as many distractions as you need to, but are able to engage the dog. Leon and I did something new today. I started to introduce him to the concept of picking up not toys, but whatever his clumsy owner might drop (like a remote, book et). I started out with different toys first. First the ball, then the bone, then the ring et. Once he learned it was the same rules for each toy (that is I go get it, then I need to not just fling it at my owner but drop it in her hand--I pretend I am blind and close my eyes so I don't cheat----and then comes out my reward). Then I started dropping or throwing the remote. I also started doing this from different positions (standing, sitting et). So now I have revised the criteria of the task to be a bit more complicated. It took Leon a little while to find the best way to pick up the remote, and then longer for him to realize flinging it at me was not what I was looking for LOL. I help and give hints along the way, but try to avoid learned helplessness (that is the act of directing him every minute, letting him take the initiative).

With daycare clients, if I am training, they normally want to be involved. It's nice because with a dog like Leon, you can relax and make a line of dogs and let everyone learn a task for the day. Daycare gets bored if they are left to their own devices. You really shouldn't just leave them in the same room or yard everyday, if your goal is to truly entertain them for the day. A little training on a new trick, combined to a walk to the creek for a swim, and you have suddenly snoozing doggies. So training with Leon is about a thousand times different than training with Jack.

For instance, Jack is now possessive of the dumbbell (for a short time while we revisit his foundation), because although it's very deliberate work for a working retrieve, it's work Jack likes. Now if you combined it with treats at this point while his pupils dialate for the joy yet guarding of his new job, you are about to create a disaster and get someone or something injured. Making sure his eye contact remains on you, and not the dog that is not even thinking about the dumbbell but wandering in your direction, is very important. It's real important, because in the Spring when he is retrieving it unleashed over jumps, he can't be thinking of the owner and dog looking on with interest at HIS job. Jack has a lot of things that he thought were his. At one point, he started thinking the daycare human owners that came here were his, to the point that he started eyeing up their dogs if they approached their own owners (a solid place command is very helpful for this sort of behavior combined with a whole training plan). Every six months or so, it's something different, and then that's improved. Jack is a work in progress that is more complex than your average dog. Yet, he does want to please, and will work for those good boys. He really wants and needs to understand what the human thinks is "good" and what the human finds unacceptable. He doesn't understand that I find it unacceptable mostly for his own safety. It's up to me to let him know what I will not tolerate.

Anyhow, method two goes slower and is much more deliberate and time consuming in creating each step. Assuming you do your homework and do it right, there is no reason to be "harsh" on the dog (this usually happens when someone hasn't done their homework and wants to rush off to the "fun" part, and therefore overtaxes their dog, gets frustrated and deals with them harshly). In fact, it's a very gentle method whose results create confidence and assurance in a dog. Even with a dog of as many dominant traits as a Jackie has, his confidence has to come from the fact that I have his back, and with our good partnership I will not let him be put in an untenable position. Sometimes, easier said than done sometimes. I am more apt to now communicate to owners, that it's not okay for their dog to rudely run up to my dog. That the fact that he hasn't done anything about it, has to do with training not a particularly patient temperament. Don't forget, he could be thinking about protecting me too!! It's my job to let him know, not only will I not force him to deal with a dog that will make him uncomfortable, but he doesn't need to worry about me as I will protect myself. This means coming out of your shell, and communicating to people, no it's not just dogs being dogs. You need to be responsible and in control. Even if a dog is on a flexi or leash, you are not in control if you allow your dog to drag you everywhere, or you are forced to drop the leash. Those actions are not okay with me, because you are putting me and my dog in danger.

Although Leon is not likely to reacte, I also don't want a dog being rough with him and taking advantage of his good nature. Dogs should not be dashing up to each other unless permission is given by the owner. A dog should be under voice control both off and on the leash. This is why I raise my standard all the time, and dog owners should be raising their standards of responsibility and training as well.

Any how method two first starts with the gentle insertion of the dumbbell. The Open Koehler book is contigent upon you having completed your Novice work. So if you are working with a squirming dog that is not calm and collected, then you are going about following any sort of Koehler method all wrong. You have not done your homework. Some people believe a calm and confident dog has been beaten into this mold, rather than recognizing a calm and trusting dog that has been lovingly molded. The beginning of the retrieve starts with you opening your dogs mouth, and placing the dumbbell behind the dogs teeth, right where you are going to want it at the end of the training:) You lovingly praise your dog for letting you open his mouth and put the dumbbell in. Steps that name the commands (I use take and out) and just the starting point of the whole process are done with care and love. Method one of play fetching leaves large gaping holes in the process that would bite me later on working. Method two is slower, but works out an even more lovely relationship of partnership and an incredibly reliable retrieve. Although it may be "fun" to start the jump now, this method is reliant upon the building of the language ever step of the way. So starting the jump now would be selfish on the owners part, and muddy up the process of showing your dog efficiently, effectively, and lovingly what you want. It's the difference between using this as a reliable command, and using the other as a play command.

Gigi-Notes to Client After Follow Up Lesson Two

First exercise:
Sit on the dog or informal long down, not actual long down:
1) You need to have the leash tight under your bum, so that only enough is out for her to lie right next to you, comfortably. There may even be slight tension on her neck if she puts her head down to sleep (fat chance LOL).
****This is not a formal long down, as the actual command "down" is never given, but totally expected. Move that chair very close to the street. By the time she is completely relaxed (ie not shaking or trying to lunge) a lot has been accomplished believe it or not.
2) The above is ever more important if you take it out of the yard (ie to the prom).
3) The under the foot, sit on the dog is okay, but the you seated sit on the dog is the best, especially if she relaxes under her own power when dogs are around. The secret is that there is no "pass " given as far as tightness on the leash and not accepting her chin on you or her trying to get up on the bench.

New Exercise Attention:
1) One exercise that actually works the best with treats at first. So be sure to use those. I have found that by far the cheapest are hot dogs cut up. The only time I suggest no hot dogs if there are any health issues (ie heart disease or the likely hood of a genetic disease that may pose a health risk later on).
2) In the beginning, (and I will give you more directions later on once you have mastered this), you want Gigi to look at you with the command "look". If she does this for five seconds without breaking and you can reward great. Be very picky about this.
3) If she breaks in those five seconds break it into smaller parts. You want her to be doing this four out of five times easily before you start making it harder.
4) Keep this in non-distracting environments now (in your house, in the front yard, and in the park but far removed from other dogs).

****Remember as the length of time gets longer, don't be so quick to repeat the "look" command. I wouldn't use Gigi as that name is used so much that it can't consistently be used as a command except by "Gigi Look". So be sure that the word "look" is in the command. Wean off the luring when you can. If she gets distracted, you can always go back to single command look (ie not much time until, good girl, treat).

***Once we start getting to 15 to 30 seconds, she can break but must look back at you immediately to get the treat.

Heeling Notes:
1) I want Gigi's nose not to turn into your thigh when heeling every time she starts to get anxious. Use your knee to bump her nose away.
2) Get her heeling and auto sitting correctly in your yard first and consistently before going out there.
3) If a particular heel does not go well (and it's not due to pushing her too fast, it's just kind of sucky) repeat that heel the way you want it a few times.

Down Notes:
1) As you go towards a situation that is going to make Gigi nervous, give her the command down. If she doesn't, use the foot under the leash correction, where you take up the slack as she gives it to you.
2) Use this alternately with sits when in situations uncomfortable for Gigi. Like how we were walking past the barking dogs.

Notes on Walking Near Strange Dogs (and people she may react to whether friendly or not):
1) Don't allow yourself to get so flustered that you forget where your hands are when walking past strange dogs (if it's a volatile situation, remember to be sure the street is somewhat devoid of people close by) or people. In fact, start really trying to think about that, if you have to, grab your pants leg.
2) If you are coming up to a child or skateboarder, give her a correction and command before you come up on them. Do this until she stops locking on when going towards or turning and trying to jump or lunge on them. I would want a good month of this reliably happening before I stopped.
3) Remember in tricky situations where people and dogs may be passing to your right, you can hold the leash with your left hand there.
4) If there is enough room, you can turn a safe distance away from dogs and distractions, and let the leash loose. At that point, if she doesn't come, you can either allow your body movement forward to give her the metal collar correction, or you can even give an e-collar correction before she hits the end. If she comes right with you, be sure to tell her she is a good girl.
5) Which reminds me, on about turns walk away from Gigi briskly once you turn around. This will start her off briskly in your direction if she is paying attention.

Auto sits:
1) Give her a second to reach position herself.
2) Remember the timing of the correction if she stops doing it or doing it in the wrong position again. Now you want to do it each time right as you come to a stop (right foot closes into left foot). Also remember you should come into a smooth stop, you don't need to stop short abruptly, and that will help Gigi more.
3) Start relying less on the leash, and more on the e-collar if she does not do it correctly. This is so we start getting as hands off as possible, and let her make the decision.

General Observations:
1) Be sure you are as vigilant with the praise that you give Gigi when she does something right, as you are with a correction when you are correcting her behavior. She needs an indicator that she has acted right or done the right thing in order to repeat that.
2) Still keep her muzzled. I want her to stop trying to put her mouth near your thigh in distracting situations. Probably a week more will do it, if you are sure her head meets your knee when she tries that.
3) Strategize your leash position when training. (ie when is it good to have it in right with left hand loose, when is it good to have it just in left hand, when is it good to have it in right but still holding with left hand). Training is not just this, but the leash is the major control point, so the leash handling and position is very important due to that.
4) If Gigi becomes overloaded, don't abandon the situation, just back it up a bit and move it forward as much as possible. Like when we did about turns before walking past the fences, or used the vehicles as a buffer right now while dogs are walking the other way. The more you are able to be successful with Gigi, the more she learns, and the more you are able to move it forward. She just isn't ready to follow you right next to the fence right now:) But if you repeat these successful moves with her, and bring her in at a comfortable but not excruciatingly slow pace, she will get it.
5) Look out for any possible aggressive behaviors that she might show at home, and be ready to work on them immediately with her. Like if she gets aggressive over the furniture or

Gigi-Various Notes on Dog Introduction with Gigi

1) Start with crate confinement, and look for Gigi to be calm not ramped up in crate first. Keep humans et to the minimum and everything low key. Other dog can wander around and do whatever.

2) Then we want sessions of sit on the dog until Gigi is showing now shivering or ramped up symptoms. We want to do this with both dogs, and perhaps stagger the seats so that Gigi or the other dog is at the butt end of the other. However, we don't want to have enough freedom so that an altercation can occur.

3) Then I would hang out with Gigi on a leash, but not on sit on the dog. Try to orchestrate butt to butt sniffing. If she snarks or growls, back in the crate she goes until the next time.



***Remember let's wait a week at least until Gigi is used to following your lead. Then we want the atmosphere to be as least distracting as possible, as that's been the way it's worked here so far.

I wouldn't have anyone walking her until you and your wife are very comfortable walking her in these situations. Once a few months of that has gone by, then you could think of who you could get to walk her. If there is another trainer/dog walker in the area, or if it's a family member you can give the rules to and practice with. She really needs to be following you first. Indications of progress would be less attention given to outside stimuli, and more attention to your lead. These are indentified by decrease in locking on and concern regarding oncoming distractions. Also comes by no longer needing to give corrections for on leash good behavior. So it does sound like you are going backwards a bit, but remember you are still new to handling Gigi, and it's hard to download years of training info into a human brain into a short period of time LOL. Not impossible however. I think a good couple outcomes of walks on your own would do a lot to give you the ability to read Gigi, before she even thinks of reacting, and train her out of it with you.

Gigi Pictures

Some Gigi pictures:

Gigi Day 12 Lesson 31

Looonnnng Portsmouth day:
1. Lesson two hours.
2. Objective, to have Gigi walking very closely with city dogs from behind (dog's behind to Gigi) and be able to pass without incident with a lane in between when dog coming from front. Also to have Gigi be still and realize no dog is out to harm her, in fact they are all pretty much ignoring her.
3. Techniques used sit on the dog and Koehler influenced heeling exercise (not training program due to condensed time).
4. Equipment is muzzle, metal training collar, e-collar and bench (for sit on the dog).
5. Owner not involved so no homework given as yet.
6. It was a grueling day for Gigi. I did get us water through out the day. We spent a good hour heeling around the square and backroads of Portsmouth. Many many dogs out on Saturday. Many very untrained ones, with owners who want to walk up to every other dog. Gigi only lunged once at an Irish Setter while we were doing sit on the dog. This makes her correct herself by the collar pressure when she leaps, and all was calm after. This was the first dog that tried to approach her during the day. I also had several up close conversations with other owners and dogs, who allowed me to just have Gigi sit there as we conversed about dog training. It took her three minutes to go into a down on sit on the dog today. One owner helped me do reps of about turns toward her dog and away with Gigi. Gigi was interested in the dog, and probably would have tried something if I had the owner come closer, but instead did quite a few about turns without looking back.

Introducing Gigi, Case 1 History

A little something different for at least the next week, I am going to blog on an in-house case.

History:
1. General Information:

• Dog's name is Gigi.
• Her breed is mixed, owner thinks Lab/Doberman. It's hard to tell, sometimes her profile almost looks Great Dane to me, but from the front their are similar characteristics to a Doberman face, and the squareness of the jaw line could come from lab origins.
• Thought to be about 4-5 years of age.
• Gigi is spayed.
• Socialization with other dogs and men has not been going so well. Also children are thought to perhaps be a problem for Gigi.

2. Health problems: None known of.

3. Problem behaviors: 1) Aggression to other dogs. 2) Wary of men. 3) Not trusted around children.

4. Goals and objectives of training program: Gigi is staying for one week, and a minimum of three weeks was suggested. Owners' would have a problem paying for the three weeks. Therefore are goals during one week are 1) to show improvement in handling and obedience around other dogs (and other general distractions, but a focus around other dogs) and 2) to concentrate on the let's go command and heel with auto sit during this week. Anything else that can be fit into the program, will also be fit in, but these are ambitious goals.

5. Length is one week board and train, and then coaching the owners on a go forward basis from there for three follow up lessons that are included in the board and train, and then hopefully a weekly obedience coaching program at a minimum of six weeks. It's really important to be able to show the owners what can be done in the one week time period in order to gain their confidence in their dog.

Board and Train has been suggested as owners have been battling with this for the last 8 months. We want a nice start to Gigi's training in the most effective and efficient way possible. It will be hard for the client's to get to the learning curve needed quickly, and meanwhile Gigi's behavior has been on a downward slide. So once we have a foundation instilled, it will be time to bring the owners into the training program.

6. Both written evaluation form, and in person consultation to view the behavior and client's interactions with Gigi.