Dog Owner Question: How to train a loose leash walk?

Boone, a client's dog, walking through York's Marketfest
with me.

I am sorry to inform you, I can't even summarize this in a short article with a quick tip.   That being said, if you are willing to do the work and practice it is not hard.  Loose leash walking is one of the most common things asked for by dog owners.   This is one of the fastest and easiest things to start in dog training, but you do actually have to train and teach your dog how to do it.   It is not going to get better if you try and wait it out (or you will only get there when your dog becomes geriatric).   When first training basic obedience, this is usually one of the first things we work on from day one.   Then it is practiced and maintained going forward as the rest of obedience is built upon loose leash walking.

What exactly is loose leash walking?   When people talk about this, they are not usually talking about the more formal command "heel".   However, it means that the dog can walk on the leash without going to the end of it and pulling or putting pressure on the leash.  The dog has learned and knows how to walk on a leash in partnership with their owner.

Good boy Boone enjoying Marketfest with me.

Loose leash walking is a very important skill for a dog to have.   It allows the dog to go to more places outside of the home, and makes the walks enjoyable to BOTH the owner and the dog.  It builds confidence and impulse control, which you will appreciate even more so if you have a reactive dog.

Trust me, the dog is not comfortable pulling or lunging against their collar.    Dogs in general are much happier when the owner is not frustrated with them as well.   By teaching this to your dog, you are only going to improve their life as well as your enjoyment of bringing them out with you.

As for methods (or parts of methods, as a method is the whole process of teaching obedience via a plan) there are many:

1. There is the old stand like a tree when your dog hits the end of the leash.   Most dogs need a little more than this when they get older.   I find it useful for very young puppies to get started on this (among other ways).
2. There is the Mike Ellis type method for which will rely on your building a relationship based on engagement for you and your dog.   I have used this with my dogs, but not as the only method yet.
3. There is the long line method that I use for dogs six months and older that is based off the beginning of the Koehler method.    Of course the use for this is to build whole obedience skills with this as simply the start.  Generally, I find this a great way of laying a foundation not only for obedience but impulse control as well.
4. Personally, I like to train a formal heel and then loosen that up at a later date.  I find (for me) that makes the process a lot less frustrating and ultimately faster.  Plus, I use heel quite a bit anyway.  I do start heel with the long line above.

The things to think about when choosing a method are the following:

1. What are your specific goals?  Different owners have different goals that could effect the method of training preferred (for example they may later want to work in agility, free style dancing, or maybe they just want a nice family pet).
2. What is the temperament of your dog and are you having any other problems that you need to address?   Sometimes you can take your time training your dog, and other times other factors may make training an immediate safety need.  You also may need to take current behavioral problems into consideration.
3. How old is your dog or puppy?   Adult dogs and puppies younger than six months old are generally trained in a different way with different expectations.  Young puppies are not mature enough yet to give the same performance or perform to expectations of a mature older adult.
4. What is your dog mellow, hyper, or fearful?   This may also effect the method you wish to adopt going forward.   
5. Who else regularly interacts with your dogs and do they have any special needs?
6. What is the dog owner's health and activity level like?  There are some training methods that require more physically of the dog owner than others, especially in the first few weeks or months.

My newest dog, Shana, has been brought up on two methods or two modified parts of two tweaked methods.   Here she is doing the more formal, fuss or focused heel.   This really helps with the more informal loose leash walking.  The video below is more the Mike Ellis type of engagement training.

There is a lot to think about when choosing the method for your dog.   It is best to have a professional dog trainer walk you through it, if you are not already familiar with some of these methods and concepts.

In the video link above, Boy was taught to do a loose leash walk in about 7 to 8 days.   Then his performance continued to improve as his training was continued and maintained.   Boy had some serious behavioral problems and fear in general.  So if a dog like Boy (who was fearful and moderately aggressive) can be taught and learn, then it is super easy to teach this to a dog without behavior problems.

The final outcome of loose leash walking should look something like this:)

Five Rules to Keep In Mind When Using Corrections

Corrections are ways to improve communication in training and make corrections for training items that are either lacking precision and/or behavioral problems that need to be addressed.   Corrections are not the same as punishment (either in the general public understanding which refers to a reaction after a negative event or the more scientific definition of punishment, meaning reducing behavior only or in other words does not mean physical harm in the scientific definition).

For about the fist six months of a puppies life, training goes along usually with minimal corrections (like no, trading items, or redirection to something more appropriate) and punishment might be a simple crate time out.   Hopefully you have been doing formal training during this point, which does have less expectation and precision than one would have of a more mature dog going through training.

Why do we need corrections of some sort?   When training a dog, you want to give them information in as clear a form as possible, so that they can learn how to understand our verbal communication and domestic living rules.  There are many things canines do that are natural and normal for them to do, but do not belong in a domestic, living with and around humans and other critters environment.   Because many dog owners want a dog that can go anywhere with them and take on adventures, dogs need to understand the rules in order to be safe and enjoyable in public.  Six months is the age many dogs training professionals believe a puppy can receive more responsibility and start to have the responsibility of performing commands at first cue (verbal or signal or what have you).   This is when you begin to build the compliance that you want in an older dog on their way to maturity.   This may also be the age that your dog starts testing you and others to see how far they can go.  This is natural for dogs to do at many different stages, but six months is a good age to begin being very firm about the rules of domestic living.

There are rules that humans need to adhere to for corrections to be an effective and fair part of a training plan.   Here are five rules that most often come to mind for me:

1. Training and teaching always are the first things you do with your dog before correcting them for non compliance.   They need to know what the right decision, position or behavior was before you can expect them to perform it.   A correction is not the beginning teaching step.   Also remember a correction is not the reaction to an unpleasant event (IE dog bite, growling, going to the bathroom in the house, getting into the garbage ET).  We are not talking about that here, and those reactions are not part of the TRAINING process in specific.
2. Related to above, a correction must be fair and appropriate to the situation.  Remember even when using training collars, the handler/trainer/owner always has control over how much they are used, how well timed they are used, and how consistent they have been in general to the training plan.
3. A correction happens when the human is calm and in a good frame of mind.   Again a correction is not something that happens in anger or frustration.
4. There is usually a second or so between an event (command, behavior, ET) where the dog is giving their learning space.   Then a correction (body bump, re-position, molding, collar/leash correction) is given only after giving the dog the opportunity to act based on what you have already taught them.   Without giving them that space, you are not giving them the space to think, contemplate, and decide what it is that you want.
5. Corrections are never the only information given in a training plan.   They are a tool just like anything else that you use for training (leash, collar, voice, body language, consistency, timing, and so on).   If you only used correction, you would never be teaching or rewarding.   These are ALL part of the training process.

This is a short article on an involved topic.   Please let me know any questions you may have.   Future blog posts will delve further into this.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com

http://www.mainedogtrainer.com

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New Puppies!

8 Week Old Shana Madela!   Welcome home.

We just purchased a new puppy.  Shana Madela will have been our third puppy, and our seventh dog.   One forgets a lot of puppy stuff in between the new family members, and especially if your dogs live happy and long lives.   So I am going to attempt to collect as much puppy information as possible for others right here.      Dobermans grow until at the minimum two years, and are not considered mature until three years of age. Taking your eyes off puppies can be quite a mistake, that may threaten the life of your new family member.   Please be sure to supervise your young and learning puppy, to keep them out of trouble and accidental harm to themselves.

So here is some puppy info links, notes and advice:

1. House Training
2. Crate Training
3. Socialization
4. Feeding/Food/Water
5. Vaccinations - also talk this over with your veterinarian.   You should know the risks ET, and the changing environment of vaccinations.
6. Worms and Parasites - Good to know about, but be sure to consult your vet if you think there is a problem.
7. Teething
8. Stages of puppy hood
9. Leashes/Collars-Leash protocols for young puppies (NOTE:  I use a fifteen foot leash for this)  and slip type training collars can be used ONLY to be sure that the collar will not slip the puppy (as many flat collars can and get loose if your puppy tugs at all on the leash).   Training collars should never be left on your puppy when not out walking (and again, remember only to use so your dog can not slip their collar, do not use for corrections at this time)  Be sure you do not start correcting your puppy to early.   They are still very fragile, and all your work now should make corrections minimal in both frequency and level when they are over six months old and old enough to start more ambitious training.
10. Toy Safety
11. Toxic items you might not think about.
12. House Proofing or knowing what to be especially careful of (please note that puppies should never not be supervised in or outside the house)
13. Multi Dog Issues and Training in a Multi Dog Household
14. Off Leash Preparation-Most effective off leash preparation is done on leash.   Many people start off with their puppy off leash, and then have problems with them staying near them when they reach a more mature age, where adventuring is the norm. (see number 8 article on umbilical cord training)
15. Still Growing Watch Activity
16. Puppy Training-You start with the basics in training a young puppy.   First things to do is house training, crate training, training to accept and not eat the leash/collar, and recognizing their name. Commands are trained differently than you might train an older dog with perhaps no previous training behind them.   Generally, if you do this right and consistently, it will be very easy to carry training forward into adolescence and maturity.     I play a lot of games, do luring, and use food when necessary.   Also a lot of praise and fun.   You can't expect the same performance as you would from a more mature dog.   For instance, you are not going to expect a half an hour place from a very young puppy).  
17. Natural but Annoying-Mouthing, barking, occaisional growling, accidents in the house, eating poop, chewing, and more.   You can find some great tips about these sorts of things in this article.   These are all things that can be worked on (please see a dog trainer if you do not know how), but know the puppy has no idea these are not desirable in a domestic human household.
18. Things to Be On Top of Right Away-Signs of aggression, abnormal growling or barking, health concerns, biting (different than mouthing),any abnormal behaviors, and so on.   Be aware though, some very new owners have a hard time telling play signs from aggression.  It's a good idea to consult with a pet professional or trainer to help you understand the behaviors of puppies and what they may mean.

There is lots to know about taking care of a puppy.   I do hope this helps someone out there who is going to be or is enjoying this adventure soon:)

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
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Dog Grooming and Maintenance At Least Weekly (Republished)

 Food, shelter, affection, exercise and veterinary care are the well known basic needs of your pet.   Many owners forget or neglect grooming most of which should be done once a week, and some of which should be done daily.   Grooming is not only about how your dog looks, but also relates to their health, comfort, and physical well being.


Long haired dogs can develop very painful mats and tangles in their fur.  To leave a coat in this condition and then drop them off at a groomers like that is animal neglect and abuse.   Law does not define this that way except maybe in extreme cases, but animals having hair mats feel much pain from this.   Some long hair dogs need their coats combed out every day or so, while shorter hair dogs could use it every week.   Long coats are sometimes best shaved or trimmed by a groomer or yourself with proper instruction.   Hot months can be tough on dogs blessed with luxurious coats.    It will also keep down the brushing maintenance on high up keep type dogs.


Short haired dogs are very uncomfortable carrying all that excess dead hair around.   Brushing out their coat weekly gets rid of dead hair, dirt, and dead skin that builds up in their coat otherwise.  The owner has an excellent opportunity to examine their dogs for lumps and bumps that may need medical attention or just tweezers.  Additionally, it's a great thing to do before weekly house cleaning chores, as you reduce the source of much loose dust and hair before the vacuuming and dusting commence.


Bathing is not something that is generally done too often.   Too frequent bathing can cause all sorts of coat and skin problems in dogs by robbing them of their natural oils.   Basically, most pet dogs get bathed when they get really dirty (IE roll in something horrid, or get muddy).   Some human conditions (allergies) can require more frequent bathing.   If this is the case, be sure to keep an eye on your canine companion for signs of discomfort.   Also, check with your vet on the best products to use.


Dogs nails grow fast.   As they become long, they are uncomfortable for the dog as they walk along the floor.   In extreme cases, the nails curl under and affect the actual gait of the dog making walking or running uncomfortable and not a joy anymore.   Dogs nails should be clipped every week.   White nailed canines are easy to clip, with the proper tools, as you can see the quick.   The quick is an area of the nail where blood runs.   Avoid the quick if you can.   Black nailed dogs are harder to judge.   If you are new at this, you might want to have your vet or groomer demonstrate the best way to do this.


Wax build up in the ear is a magnet for infection and bacteria.   Cleaning out the ears properly each week, keeps the ear canals clean and generally infection or irritation free.   You want to purchase an ear cleaning solution that dissolves the wax inside the ear, then when the dog shakes his/her head, the wax is shaken to the ear canal and wrinkles in the ear that you can see.   Be sure not to stuff the wax back down the ear canal with whatever you use to clean it out.    Some people use wipes and some people use cotton human ear cleaners.   You just want to carefully remove the build up that has become loosened.


Another place bacteria and plaque like to grow into infection is the teeth.   Teeth cleaning should actually be done (ideally) daily or even after every feeding.   Be sure that you do not use human toothpaste for this task the chemicals or ingredients will harm your dog.  Pet supply stores sell toothpaste and brushes for dogs.   Be sure to concentrate on the areas where plaque will build, as well as the teeth as a whole.   For instance, the back teeth, gum line, and teeth spaces hold a lot of  residue.


In addition to the above, successfully being able to groom and care for your dog develops a deeper relationship with your dog.   Grooming is also a time where obedience can be practiced and tightened up on.   Take care of your dogs, they love you so much.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
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Trainer Selection Checklist

A good working relationship with a dog trainer is very important.   Here are some things that I advise my clients and other dog owners to check into:

Education:
1. Seminars attended,and when.
2. How did they get in the field.
3. What was the foundation of their learning experience before opening their doors.
4. Certifications acquired and from what organizations.
5. What professional memberships do they belong to. Different memberships offer different services and education.
****International Association of Dog Trainers (IACP) and National Association of Dog Obedience Instructions (NADOI) are the two certificates that I think carry the most weight. If there is a behavioral certificate in their resume, if they are a trainer there should also be a certificate from those organizations or possibly the APDT. I put less weight on the APDT certificate as it's a multiple choice exam, whereas the others are at least a written demonstration of the knowledge of the dog trainer that is usually evaluated by a board of senior dog trainers.
Experience:

1. Years spent training dogs.
2. How many dogs trained to date and last 12 months. (an experienced trainer has already trained at least 200-300 dogs in total)
3. What kinds of breeds have been worked with. A snarky lab is quite different from an aggressive St Bernard. A toy breed with issues, is different than a giant breed with issues.
4. Do they own a dog? Your perspective becomes quite a bit different if you live with your own dog 24/7. In training pet dogs especially, it's important that your trainer is aware of the day to day with a dog.
5. Have they owned their own problem dogs, and successfully trained them to be in control? Ditto number 4 on this, you don't get a good sense of a problem dog that you only see for an hour every week. A trainer that has had a dog with issues, is more apt to understand the day to day.
6. How many sessions do they suggest you take? An experienced obedience trainer will not suggest that one or two sessions will get you a basic trained obedience dog. Most problem issues, unless they are super simple, are not addressed in two or three sessions either. The minimum that I will sell a client is 6, and I tell clients it takes about 12 sessions, if you are going from zero to get a dog trained in basic obedience skills.
7. How do they use private and group sessions? Good trainers know that if you are starting from point zero, group sessions are not going to help you very much, unless they are super tiny (the number of students that is, not the size of the dog). A knowledgeable trainer should let you get your dogs trained up to distraction first, before suggesting group classes, even though they are "cheaper".
8. Can they explain how age and physical factors can influence a training program and a dog's patience level if they are experiencing issues?
9. What different kinds of dog issues have they dealt with in the past?
10. Have they and can they train a dog to reliable off leash ability?
11. Are they married to one method in their tool box, or have they learned about and used many methods and tools? What is their decision making process for what tools and methods that they would work with you on?
12. What are their and do they have safety protocols?
13. How intelligently can they talk about tools, methods, and a plan for you and your dog?
14. Where and when have they worked or volunteered at other places having to do with handling or training dogs?
15. If they can't help you, do they have referrals of more experienced trainers. Vet referrals. What would make them send you to those referrals.
16. Do they offer more than "puppy play and socialize" or "manners" type of classes?
Plans for Continued Education:

1. Seminars that are planned to be attending, from who, and for what.
2. Skills or additional dog sports being worked on.
3. Areas that they see them selves wanting to learn more in.
4. What other trainers do they admire or want to emulate? (be sure to look these up, and read their literature and articles that are out there)
****Key, this should easily come to the trainer's mind. Good trainer's are always honing their skill set.

Articles and Portfolio:

1. There should be articles available written by the dog trainer themselves.
2. Their should be still pictures of dogs being worked with in obedience exercises. If you are looking at an obedience trainer, you don't just want to see cute pictures of client's dogs or client's dogs doing tricks, you want to see what you are hoping to achieve.
3. Video of work or end result. Ditto number 2 above.

Some Proof of Ability to Train Dogs:
1. Clients that are referrals and can be called on.
2. Letter referrals from clients.
3. Obedience type competition titles. (not solely agility titles if what you are looking for is basic obedience). You want a trainer that keeps this somewhat current in either their own dogs, or the successes of their clients in obedience sports.
4. Free consultations are available, especially to problem dogs. You should be able to view the trainer and the areas that you will be training in.
5. The trainer should be able to demo their own dog on the skills that you wish to learn.
6. Do they have a resume available.


Need your dog trained? Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com services page. Or contact me at 207-361-4395 in York Maine. Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.


Say no to HSUS, PETA, No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC) or Truly Dog Friendly Organization (TDF). Articles and information on why I do not support these organizations is on here and here.

Why quality dog training equipment is needed and where to find it

Many reasons exist as to why inferior equipment has become so popular at most pet supply stores. One is the economy that has caused many people to tighten their belts. Two is the popularity of some training methods that try to provide reliable training sans means of containment (like leashes). Three much of the population has moved away from off leash dog training or having a reliable off leash trained dog. Four is the lack of knowledge pet stores have of training equipment and why quality is required by trainers for their customers.

Regarding inexpensive reasoning: Cheaply priced products also tend to be cheaply made. The price differential between metal training collars is a matter of a couple of dollars to the consumer. Sadly those consumers will not find the recommended Herm Sprenger collars in most pet supply shops. What consumers will find are cheaply made metal collars from over seas. The store owners and/or employees are not going to know to tell consumers that these collars are more likely to break or snap. Also store owners and employees will most likely not understand the cleaner function of a Herm Sprenger collar so a dog is cleanly corrected and NOT choked or pulled around.

Quality prong collars have ends that are smooth and rounded. Cheap prong collars have rough sharped edged prongs, which is not how the collar is supposed to be used. Again, it's literally only a few dollars that seperate the retail price of the two. In my opinion, it's always well worth the extra dollars to have the best quality equipment for training my dog and my clients' dogs.

On leashes, the heavier brass hardware does not break like the cheap nickel hardware does. Equipment can be a lifesaver for a dog in training or an untrained dog, but not so much if it's cheaply made. Buying equipment that is a few bucks less, can be costly for you, your family, and your canine in the long run in veterinary costs or emotional costs.

Regarding other popular training methods: Many of the general public and trainers understand that the level of correction on a piece of equipment is totally in the hands of the handler. Additionally, some dogs are much stronger than their owners, and were allowed to grow up with little to no training guidance. For these and other reasons, there will always be a place for well made training equipment. There will always exist temperaments of dogs that will need a training period that requires control and guidance. Unfortunately, the dog training profession has for awhile come to believe that limiting the dogs' life and experiences is preferable to training them, so that they may enjoy all the life and experiences possible in life. An audience still exists,however,for real training regardless of what training equipment and methods are used. Real training means in the end that neither corrections or rewards are necessary for first command performance.

Also these training collars provide another very important function. Dogs, when sized right, can not slip their heads out of them if they want to get away or are in the middle of a panic attack.

Moving away from confinement or leash training: It may surprise you to know that most off leash training, by that I mean reliable in any distraction off leash training, starts with a leash. Many customers are fooled because young dogs and puppies will naturally follow you, at first. If you have never given them the idea that there is a range that they must not wander from you, then they have no way of knowing that is what you wanted when adolescence kicks in. While throwing the ball may catch some dogs attention during most things, loose that ball and you loose your dog if this is relied on as training. Quality leashes that make training easier by their sturdiness as well as comfort are always going to be necessary at least as training equipment. If you have not ever owned a quality leather leash, then you have no idea what you are missing. I go a step further and have a convertible, police, euro, or multi purpose leash.

Lack of knowledge in most pet stores: If my client happens to find a decent training collar in a pet store, most often they will come back with an ill fitting collar. Although I send them with instructions, the store owner or employee most often sells my clients the wrong size. Not only that, they will have no idea why a trainer may have selected a certain manufacturer or type. In this climate, you are also as likely to have the store owner tell your client why they should not buy the equipment.

Because of this, I have needed to come up with resources for my clients to get decent training equipment when I may not have it. Please feel free to use the below resources that are provided:

Leashes 6' Leather: First, things to look for in a quality leather leash 6' leash. 1) Not two pieces of material sewn together. They come part, and there is no need for this. 2) For training, I prefer a thick 3/4' width on the leash. 3) For training, do not buy any shorter than a 6' lead, this is a pretty ideal length for use in dog training. 4) I prefer rivets or stitched with rivets on my leads. 5) For training, heavy brass hardware is ideal for the snap and other metal hardware that may be on it.

Hogans Custom Leather **I personally buy leashes from this company

Pro-Mohs **guarantee products/be sure to look up their guarantee

JB Pet Supply ***variety and cheaper prices can be found here. be sure to compare their collars to the rules above, and do not be afraid to call and ask

Leashes 15' or more Longe Lines: **Unless this is for a very small dog, I prefer the heavy brass hardware on Longe Lines. I also prefer cotton although they tangle more, if you take care of them they tend to stay in shape more. The following vendor does not have my specifics, but this is as close as I could get. I have a distributor who does, but she only sells to wholesale clients. JB Pet Supply

Herm Sprenger Training Collars: JB Pet Supply
Muzzles-Basket: I have not found a distributor yet to supply myself with these, but here are some sites that I found. They appear to carry the plastic basket muzzle that I prefer. The closure clips are buckles rather than the plastic closures. The plastic closures have actually seperated before on dogs where a muzzle was required. You DO NOT want to have that happen .

Morrco Pet Supply

Dog Muzzle

Muzzles-Soft Mesh Breathable: PetEdge

As always, please see a professional dog trainer before attempting to use a training collar yourself. Many times the training begins without the collar at first. Correct knowledge and use of training collars is very important to get the results that are expected.

Maine and New Hampshire Dog Trainer
Mannerly Mutts Dog Training Blog
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Dog Training Definition Part 4

Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It’s important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these definitions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects. Some of the following definitions are a lot more detailed outside of the dog training or behavior modification world. These are the basics talked about as referenced (generally) by dog trainers. This is part four of the definitions and basics postings.
Ever wonder what those trainers or behavior modification people are talking about? While these might not be the only definitions in the dog world or otherwise, these might give you a clue!!

Ever wonder what those trainers or behavior modification people are talking about? While these might not be the only definitions in the dog world or otherwise, these might give you a clue!!



Classifications of Temperaments in Dogs:

• Core Temperament (or just definition of temperament)- Traits of personality that are inborn and genetic in nature.  While this might sound dire in dog training, while the core of one's personality, generally, won't be changed, it does not mean that responses can not be improved through training.  One other thing I would point out in my particular definition of dog training, these can be one aspect of a dog and not a way to describe a dog, necessarily, in the whole of their personality.   We identify temperaments in dogs to understand the best paths that have worked in training and behavior modification in the past in order to start a training plan (one of many things taken into consideration).  An even better definition of temperament as it applies to dogs is described as sound or unsound for a specific task.   This takes out the negatives, and focuses on temperament in a more positive light.

• Sound-Ideal for doing a job or task

• Unsound-Not ideal for doing a job or task

Some people will think the following temperament descriptions indicate that a dog may be sound or unsound.  Sometimes these things actually make a dog an ideal candidate for a certain task.

• Sharp-Over reacts in an adverse way  to things most other dogs would not react adversely to.
• Shy-Hesitant to be affectionate right away, but not quite fearful.
• Fearful-Extreme fear in situations that most other dogs would not react adversely to.   Reactions can range from trying to hide behind or under something, shaking, lip licking, to biting or attacking if feeling cornered.   Fearful dogs do not always bite, but cornering them or making some feel trapped can trigger an adverse reaction in some fearful dogs.
• High Activity Drive-This is the type of dog many call hyper or reactive.   This is a dog normally of exceptional physical and mental abilities.   These types of dogs often need a lot of exercise, but more than that a job usually helps them exercise their mind as well.
• Aggressive-There are many different ways to define aggression in the dog training world.   I describe it as a forward and confident action on the part of the dog to inflict a warning or harm.   Whereas fearful is a more defensive and backward position of a dog lacking confidence.
• Dominant-A dog that seeks to control resources.   They may not do this, in my opinion, in an aggressive way, but they will seek to control things in their surrounding (owners, treats, toys, territory, furniture)
• Independent-A free thinker.  This dog does not necessarily need or want human guidance as a rule.

Classifications of Drive (sometimes these are called positive or negative drives by some trainers, I think they all have a use and a place with dogs that can be either depending on the situation):

• Prey Drive-Urge and action of chasing, grabbing, and subduing a fast moving item.

• Pack Drive-Urge and desire to participate in a social group.

• Food Drive-Not that dogs like to eat or like food, but they are motivated to perform and learn a task when rewarded by food.

• Play Drive-Dogs that are motivated and learn to perform a task through the use of toys and games with others (humans or canines).

• Defense -The action of protecting oneself from a perceived threat.

• Rank-Desire to raise in stature in a social group.

• Avoidance-A drive that comes into play when the stress level becomes too much for the dog. They will seek to avoid the stress.

• Fight Drive-The ability to forwardly protect or defend themselves or their resources.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
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Dog Training Definitions Part 3

Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It’s important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these definitions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects. Some of the following definitions are a lot more detailed outside of the dog training or behavior modification world. These are the basics talked about as referenced (generally) by dog trainers. This is part three of the definitions and basics postings.
Ever wonder what those trainers or behavior modification people are talking about? While these might not be the only definitions in the dog world or otherwise, these might give you a clue!!

• Reward-Something your dog is known to enjoy which will increase the likelyhood of an action or behavior.  In dog training, rewards do not happen constantly to control behavior, but are given for excellent or brand new performance.
• Bribe-Relying on constant rewards (usually readily handy like treats or toys) to get the performance of a command.
• Markers-A way to communicate to your pet that they have performed correctly.
• Bridge-Transferring a reward like a treat to a noice like the noise of a clicker in it's place (much of the time).  
• Poisoned cue-(thought to be first used by Karen Prior)  Where a perfectably useable was used before, but now has been "poisoned by not so nice methods".  
• Correction-A way of firming up a performance that is not quite right or is wrong.   Body movements for a sit in line with handler position, or a leash and collar correction for non compliance are just one of the very many different ways to correct.
• Diversion-Using another stimulus to divert a dog from the wrong action.   This is somewhat related to the next defintion of trade.
• Trade-Trading something of value for a command like out or leave it.  Some people rely on this to take something away from a snarky or aggressive dog that has something that they shouldn't or is dangerous to them.
• Desensitisation-Working with a dog well below their threshold to get them used to a stimulus (strange dogs, strange people, strange noises et)
• Habituation-Working with at their threshold to get them used to stimulus (strange dogs, strange people, strange noises et)
• Flooding-Working with at way above their threshold to get them used to stimulus (strange dogs, strange people, strange noises et)

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Dog Training Definitions Part 2

Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It's important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these definitions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects. Some of the following definitions are a lot more detailed outside of the dog training or behavior modification world. These are the basics talked about as referenced (generally) by dog trainers. This is part two of the definitions and basics postings.

Ever wonder what those trainers or behavior modification people are talking about. While these might not be the only definitions in the dog world or otherwise, these might give you a clue!!


Drive-The level of desire for something which results in a behavior


Motivation-The act of designing the circumstances in which a dog wants to and participates in learning. The energizing force that results in a behavior.

Generally, most trainers are talking about the presentation of a reward, as chosen by the dog, in order to design the motivation.

It can also be used in some dog training circles to talk about the motivation to avoid something unpleasant.

This is not MY definition of motivation in dog training, however. I am talking about creating a desire to participate not a desire to avoid when I use the word "motivation" in this sense.

Conditioning-Per the free dictionary-"a learning process in which an organism's behavior becomes dependent on the occurrence of a stimulus in its environment."

Classical Conditioning-Also known as Pavlovian or respondent conditioning, classical conditioning is a form of associative learning, which was first demonstrated by Ivan Pavlov. A common procedure to begin classical conditioning involves the use of a neutral stimulus along with a significant stimulus which would induce obvious acknowledgement by the subject. The significant stimulus brings about an ingrained response.

Use in dog training or behavior modification-When talked about in dog training, bridges would be an example of classical conditioning. The example of a bridge would be a clicker (or yes, good boy, target stick) when clicker training protocols are used. Behavior modification procedures of making other stimulus less intimidating (such as strange humans or unexpected noises) by associating these with something the dog likes (IE most likely food) is another example.

• Neutral Stimulus-Something that starts out with no innate response from a being.
• Conditioned Stimulus (CS)-Something that gets a response after being paired with an unconditioned stimulus.
• Conditioned Response (CR)-Also known as conditional reflex, is the action resulting when presented wit the now conditioned stimulus.
• Unconditioned Stimulus (US)-Something that obviously and instantly gets a response. It does not need conditioning.
• Unconditioned Response (UR)-The response to an unconditioned stimulus.
• Associative Learning-As per wikipedia "Associative learning is the process by which an element is learned through association with a separate, pre-occurring element."

Counter Conditioning- Per the free dictionary is "conditioning in which a second incompatible response is conditioned to an already conditioned stimulus"
Used typically in dog training by teaching a sit so the dog can't do a typical jump onto a person. A well taught sit is incompatible with jumping. Or, in other words, the dog can't both jump and sit at the same time.


Operant Conditioning-B.F. Skinner formulated a detailed model based on reinforcement, punishment, and extinction (be sure to read the definitions used with this below-these are not the general definitions of these words outside of dog training or behavior modification). It is the process of changing the form of behavior through the use of consequences.

• Reinforcement-increasing the likelyhood of the behavior
• Punishment-decreases the likelyhood of the behavior
• Negative-to take something out of the equation
• Positive-to add something to the equation
• Extinction-Produces neither favorable or unfavorable results. The action or behavior, therefore, occurs less and less frequently than before.
• Four Quadrants of this learning theory-(R+) Positive Reinforcement to increase the likelyhood of behavior by adding something, (R-) Negative Reinforcementto increase the likelyhood of behavior by taking something away, (P+) Positive Punishment to decrease the likelyhood of behavior by adding something, and (P-) Negative Punishment to decrease the likely hood of behavior by taking something away

Uses in dog training are limitless using the four quadrants. Here are just a couple of examples. (Positive Reinforcement) You reward with food after a desired behavior to increase the likelyhood of that behavior, when called for, again. (Negative Punishment) You take away your attention to decrease the likelyhood of your dog jumping on you.
Punishment-

• Necessary Action Punishment (not used with the learning theory of Operant Conditioning) An action that may be swift, necessary, and adversive but that is not used as a teaching tool. To me, punishment occurs when the opportunities for training or management have been missed.
• Negative Punishment such as used in Operant Conditioning would be a time out in a crate. You are taking away attention in order to decrease an undesireable behavior. This sort of punishment does teach and help your dog make a correlation regarding what actions get attention taken away.
• Abusive Punishment is abuse. (a definition for another posting, abuse)

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Dog Training Definitions Part 1

Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It's important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these definitions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects.

• Fear (as defined by some dog trainers) Fearful behavior is generally the backward movement (not confident) of a dog away from the feared stimulus, perhaps until they are cornered. When describing a dog's behavior as fearful, many trainers are talking about the defense drive. The dog wants to avoid something that it is not sure of. Normally when a trainer is talking about a fearful behavior in a dog, they are saying their is an exaggerated response to a stimulus that would otherwise be non-threatening to the general canine domesticated population.
• Coddling A human behavior which seeks to give comfort to the dog.   However, this is comfort done wrong, inadvertently instead reinforcing a fearful or unwanted behavior.   With coddling, a behavior gets worse instead of better.  Example:  I used to crawl in the closet with my thunder fearful dog, Jazz.   Instead of getting calmer about thunder, she got worse and worse.   Finally, when I began looking into dog training as a career in 2003, I was explained that not doing that, and instead going about the house as if nothing was amiss would help her more.  I did that, and her phobia about thunder became less and less.
• Temperament The estimation of whether a dog is suitable or not suitable to a particular task based on observation of their responses to that stimuli.
• Aggression ( I tend to untangle my definition from overlapping with fear or dominant as to the best of my ability) A canine with the confidence of forward moving action in order to further a goal.
• Dominant The behavior of confidently or with extreme willfulness to seek to control resources.
• Behavior Modification In dog training this is a series of steps and exercises that seek to improve a behavior in the domesticated canine that is seen as unsuitable to the human family or handler's purpose. (IE being a pet dog, a police dog, a therapy dog and so on) IMO the possibility of behavior modification is greatly enhanced by the knowledge of dog training, and in most cases I feel dog training is necessary to communicate to the dog in order to get to behavior modification practices.
• Dog Training The practice of teaching a way of communication to and for the canine/human relationship to work optimally. IMO dog training in most cases (except the most bomb proof of dogs) requires many elements of behavior modification as well.

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Sophie the Golden Retriever Puppy Beginning Training

Sophie was a very young 8 weeks when she came to us.   She is just 12 weeks now.   Here are some training videos on her progress.

Day 1 and a couple of days after, Sophie was pretty shell shocked and scared.   Probably only due to the breeder not handling her very much.   Everything was so new.



Crate training and house training the beginning on Week 1:



Week 2 we are working on engagement.   Sophie is a very independent Golden Retriever puppy, so I had to work very very hard to get her to interact with me for training.   Luckily, we had a strong prey drive.



Week 2 Also starting the sit, down, and attention.



Week 3 worked also on sit, down, and attention.   Also walking in the house on leash with distractions.   Now this is her on week 4 starting on our outside and very distracting walks.





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Four Levels of Completing the Training Process

I don't know if most of the dog owning public is aware of the levels that we pass through when teaching a dog a certain command. Here are the four levels that I usually think of:

1) Demonstrate to the dog what you want him to do.You can do this by positioning or luring your dog into position. Dogs need to be shown what to do, because they don’t naturally know the things we take for granted that older dogs have already been taught. Obviously they don't understand our verbal cues, and need to be shown what they will correspond to in the future. In the Demonstration phase, the command is verbalized in conjunction with the luring or placing the dog into correct position.

2) Teach your dog what you want him/her to do (consistency and repetition). Let them know this is not a one-time command performance. There are rewards for the correct completion of a task Be consistent. Don’t tell your dog to “sit” unless you are ready to help him/her into a sit if they don’t quite understand it yet. This is still the teaching phase, and they need to know that this word isn’t one of the stream of sounds they hear from you each day. Don’t converse with your dog during training time They need to know that these command words have a meaning, and that is what we are teaching them. Other sounds in the day may not have a meaning, but our commands do.

Now once certain indicators are present, is the time you start to say the command BEFORE they go into position.

3) Learning: For dogs learning happens in that instant they analyze their choices. Those choices normally are non-compliance, flee, aggression, or comply. You want to give them a few seconds to contemplate their choice once you get beyond the teaching phase. Only compliance will allow them to be rewarded, and you want to do it as soon as the correct performance happens. As the exercises go on the three Ds will be marked as well (distance, duration, and distraction To end the session on a good note, you want to have the dog succeed at least four times in a row. If it takes way too many reps to get that four times in a row, you have most likely rushed the dog forward past their threshold. Now is the time to back up to where their performance was more reliable, and move in a slower fashion forward.

You will need to be patient. In dog training anger or impatience will not get you and your companion where you need to go. If you find yourself getting frustrated, take a deep breath and imagine where it is the training will take you if done correctly. Then begin the exercises again. Allow your dog to be successful, and remember you may need to redefine what that is. Do not try to add things too early. The dog should fully understand the beginning of every exercise before being pushed on to the three Ds.

If corrections are used, it is now that they start being used correctly, of course.


4) Maintenance is the most forgotten step. I can say this simply by "if you don't use it you loose it". Also if you become inconsistent, then you will start loosing it. The best way to maintain is make sure you use all commands in real life situations everyday with consistency. Most of us slip at this though. Keeping up a working schedule with your dog of a few minutes going over things on a consistent basis is also helpful. Remember, it's as easy to untrain your dog as it is to train your dog:) We all vary on where we need our dogs to be, so this is largely up to what the owner wants and needs in their life.

This article has been re-edited from an older one.  

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Eight canine commands that will make your life easier

Novice is the first non-optional level of the American Kennel Club's obedience trials. Three different judges must at least qualify a team with a score of 170 or higher in order for the participants to move onto the next levels, if they would like to. You can move onto open and utility trials after that. When people see these dogs in the ring, they think it's all about "pretty walking". It's actually about a lot more than that. Here are some exercises from the Novice trials, and their real life




HEEL ON LEAD: Heel is a moving command and an exact position. The dog turns with the handler , and exhibits that their job is to move with and pay attention to the handler. Uses for this include, but are not limited to walking safely down city streets (teaches your dog to not be concerned with distractions), bringing groceries and dog from car to house, walking through unexpected distractions, taking a dog out of a situation that is about to become volatile, and just the simple non pulling on a lead. The auto sit and turn portion of the exercise ensures that your dog is duplicating the handlers moves for safety reasons. For example, an owner wouldn't want their dog to continue walking off the sidewalk and into a moving vehicle.

HEEL OFF LEAD: Allows you to have outdoor fun with your dog not in heel, and get him instantly into position should something come up. For instance, perhaps a walker comes upon you that clearly does not look comfortable with dogs. Heel off leash also gives you better reliability on leash, as the dog is not generalizing where and when to heel.

STAND: The actually training of a "stand for exam" gets dogs and puppies used to handling by strangers. Great for Vet exams where the veterinarian needs to evaluate the structure of your dog or check for stomach problems. Makes grooming much easier whether done at home or at the groomers. I use it instead of an auto sit for my dog that has knee problems.

FIGURE EIGHT HEEL: This is just another portion of the heeling exercise. In the city you can't always walk straight lines, and this helps a dog know how to walk in curved areas on either side of you. Again, great use for city walking especially or even in the woods with trees when needed.

RECALL OR COME COMMAND: This command is arguably one of the most important. This command can save your dog from great harm or death. This command saved Jazzabelle's life. As a youngster as she streaked towards a friend that she saw across the street. "Come" brought her to the yard, instead of the oncoming truck. This can also be used to retrieve your dog before they ingest something dangerous on the ground during a walk.

SIT: This is useful if you want your dog stationary (staying separate from stay here for a moment) so you can put on their leash, because the dog's head is up higher than a down. Great for when walking in a heel position, and you come to a curb where your dog stops with you.

DOWN: I use this a lot if a strange dog is approaching, then not only is my dog in a stationary position, but also in a very non challenging position. I can then head off the strange dog, if I wish. This is useful when introducing large dogs to smaller dogs. Excellent command for use in the grooming salon or veterinarians office.

STAY: This is usually used after a stationary command (sit or down, for instance). I use this when I don't want my dogs to counter surf, while eating dinner, while talking to a friend and I can't watch the dog at the moment, when bringing the poop bag up to the street (potential customers love this move when there are many dogs and people on the beach as well). The level of skill in which commands are trained and taught to your dog also makes it possible to sit outside at restaurants with your dog. An owner might be privileged to bring dogs into their hotel rooms, rather than have to use a kennel. Well trained dogs can be welcomed at various events such as craft fairs or family picnics. Now if someone starts to go into the higher obedience level skills which require jumping and retrieve, more joys await you. The skill of retrieval can be taught for any household object. This is a way to give your dog a fun job to do, and exercise his brain muscles.

If an owner has a reactive dog or one with behavioral issues, these skills, done to a standard, will increase and improve a dog's attention and focus on their handler. Training is a good way to begin distracting a dog from items that make them fearful as well.

Please be sure to train dogs to reliably understand their owner. It will make not only their lives better, but also start to give back the rights of responsible dog owners.

Maine and New Hampshire Dog Training

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Fashion Sense and Dog Training

There is something so basic in dog training (that is when you train many dogs for a living) that I at least often forget to communicate to my clients. I was reminded of this yesterday during very cute and active Bristol's (German Shepherd female puppy) lesson. The basic thing that I forgot to communicate is how to dress during, and especially, training a green dog or puppy. Actual typically, I dress this way even with more seasoned and trained dogs, because a lot of my training counts on me being able to get dirty and play with the dogs (be outside in areas that may be swampy or muddy) as well, even if they are well on their way and not mouthing or jumping up anymore.

There are many reasons that I will wear clothes, while training, where I don't want to worry about ruining them. Here are just some reasons to dress down your wardrobe, and not wear your favorite (dry clean only or hand wash only) clothes while training dogs. Some of these may be over the top for just a dog owner trainer, nevertheless, I think they are great tips to keep in mind for either the professional trainer or dog owner:)

Top and bottom fashion choices:

• In dog training there are a multiple of things that might get on your clothes or you. In some breeds (Boxers, Great Danes, Newfies, et) there are these things affectionately called "flingers". These are great ropes of viscous drool that can fly anywhere in a moments notice. If you have ever had the pleasure of being in a closed car with Great Danes who shake their heads all of a sudden, you know how this stuff gets everywhere. By the way flingers show up well on knit fabrics especially dark shades of black and brown are generally not a good idea. Just a word to the wise.
• Puppy nails and mouthing puppy teeth tend to pull at certain fabrics (no light delicate fabrics or fabrics that may pull). This is why my main top choices for training dogs are made out of velour, fleece, or sweatshirt materials. Choices on my bottom half tend toward dark wash jeans, which are virtually impossible to stain with muddy feet or rip (that is real jeans not summer jeans). Don't forget how sharp puppy teeth are, even if they aren't trying, a very light weight fabric on your bottom or top half is not to hard to tear.
• Light colors always seem to stain, even if it seems that they won't. Avoid these in dog training, because muddy paws always seem to find a way to imprint on the fabric. Don't wear them on your bottom or top.

Foot Fashion Tips:

• Unless you are trying to hurt yourself, flip flops are NEVER EVER appropriate. For the safety issues, nothing with any kind of a heel or with slippery bottoms are appropriate.
• Poop is something we all strive to pick up, but can be hiding out in some tall grass. Shoes with flat yet tractable bottoms are the easiest to clean. Very intricate waffle bottoms, for instance on running shows, are not so easy to clean.
• You may want a few high quality shoes just for dog training. I NEVER skimp on my shoes that I use for dog training. I also realize these shoes may go through dirt, sand, mud, muck, poo, water puddles, and snow. So my shoes that I go out in public (not to train dogs) are a totally separate category.
• My preference is NO LACES. Well fitting slip ons with great traction is what I prefer to train dogs in.

Winter Fashion Accessories:

• Be sure that any head apparel does not block your vision. So much of dog training depends on being observant of your dog and your environment for timing and proper training.
• Thick gloves will cause you to loose a lot of the feel and the dog that you are working with. Find warm gloves that are as thin as possible when you need them. Mittens are a no no, as they impede your hand movement and dexterity even more.
• Loose skarves (and anything tempting like a pony tail) can look like a fun thing to grab and pull on for a puppy, especially.
• Boots should be warm and easy to walk in. I still haven't found the perfect slip on boot to dog train in (assuming I am going to be walking a lot during the training) that hold my feet in for duration comfortably.

Aggressively Fashion Forward (owners with dogs like this should contact a professional in dog training and behavior modification immediately):

• I will always tell my clients that it is unacceptable to wear sandals, even sports sandals when training a dog. However, I do it sometimes (give me a break it gets sooo hot in the summer, and I have a lot of dogs to train) do except when training a dog who is willing to bite me. I have never been bitten on my foot, yet I always wear thick leather shoes WITH socks to protect me if they go for my ankles.
• Jeans, real heavy duty jeans, are a must. This way you are more likely to get a bruise if a redirection comes your way, rather than a flesh wound.
• Baggy swearshirts and layers underneath. This gives you a little bubble around you to react if they go for your arms or torso.
• I have never yet felt the need to wear gloves to protect my hands from a bite. Mostly, I don't want the dogs that I work with to bite down harder as a result. However, I am sure there are some dogs out there that would inspire me to have a change of mind. So far, I would rather a basket muzzle at first, if I feel the dog is too quick for me.

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Socialization Strategies for Puppies

Puppies are in need of much learning and guidance. One of the most important things to do is to socialize your puppy well in the critical early weeks and months.

The first thing that you want to check is that your vaccinations are up to date, and that it is safe to take puppy out to areas with other dogs and puppies. Take a moment to have a discussion with your vet about the best plan.

Realize that this is not just about letting puppy loose with people and dogs. There is more to socialization than that. You want to monitor within reason how they react to other people and dogs, and also to control the interactions with people and dogs so that your puppy feels safe with you. Ideally practicing training exercises is also a great way to socialize. For instance, practicing a sit before greeting a human friend or a canine friend.

In reference to 2, do some research to find out what puppy play looks like. Talk to professionals about appropriate corrections and signals that dogs and puppies give each other. You want to find out when it's a good idea to step in, and when it's a good idea to let your puppy learn from other canines.

Have your puppy on a leash and collar for safety, especially if you are outdoors and anywhere near traffic. If you are anywhere near traffic, be sure to have the handle of the leash well gripped in your hand. While socializing, an alternative to having your puppy off leash is simply having them drag the leash. That way you can easily intervene when necessary.

Find as many outdoor and indoor places as you can to expose your puppy to new noises and sounds. Remember, the puppy most likely will not feel comfortable with them at first. It is the owner's job to guide the puppy confidently into and out of the experience so that the puppy feels more comfortable the next time. Do not coddle the puppy. It's OK to pet and reassure the puppy, but you don't want to block their learning and taking in of the experience either.

Live in or near York Beach Maine? Here are some ideas that other puppy or dog owners can add to their socializing strategy.

• There are some very pet friendly banks in York Maine. Kennebunk Savings Bank has not balked at customers bringing their dogs in. Be sure that they are ready to remain calm, not pee, and be enjoyable in the bank. Responsible pet ownership allows for these socializing opportunities to remain open to the dog owning public.
• Long Sands Beach in York Maine is an excellent place to socialize your puppy. This is a place dogs (under control and ideally on leash if not fully trained) can get used to the sights and smells of other dogs, children, people, seagulls, water, wind, ET AL. Beaches provide a lot of distraction and learning opportunities for dogs. Above is Bristol, who is still a puppy at just a little over 1 year old. It is very hard for her to keep position among all the excitement around her on the beach.
• Restaurants, coffee places, or ice cream stands that allow dogs to be outside as owners and customers eat are fabulous places to socialize your puppy.
• Many pet supply places these days allow for pets to come in. Groomers, veterinarians, and other canine professionals normally welcome your pets as well, and may provide a cookie to make less pleasant visits less stressful in the future. Below is Boris at York Maine's local pet supply, Ann-imals.
• Finally, don't forget to socialize your puppy inside the home!! Puppies need to know that people you know, who may be strangers to the puppy, are allowed in and welcome when the owner says so. If you have a dog with a territorial or protective aspect to their behavior, this is a very important thing to do. If you are in doubt about whether you are doing any of this correctly, please call in a professional trainer to help!

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