Question from a Dog Owner: Is this play or aggression?

Question:   " I have an 18 mo old dog that I simply cannot break of jumping. He is large and powerful and even when I turn my back to him he continues to jump, sometimes even biting my ponytail. Is this aggression or play? I feel like he is playing but it REALLY hurts."

Answer:  Regarding is this aggression or play, it sounds like play.   An 18 month old dog is usually still a puppy although an older and larger adolescent.   As puppies grow up, they don't know the rules for appropriate human play without some training or guidance.   Your dog is most likely excited, has a lot of pent up energy, and is visiting this unwanted play on you.

In addition to finding it fun to go after your ponytail, large adolescent or untrained adult dogs can do the other things as "play", in their eyes:

1. Jump on you or tag you at the top of stairs or icy grounds (dangerous for obvious reasons).
2. Jump up and hit your eye socket hard with their nose (closed mouthed).  Or sometimes they hit your nose which hurts worse.
3. Try to pull you off something like a bike with their teeth.
4. Tug, bite, and tear at your clothes.
5. Play tug of war with the lead you are trying to walk them on.
6. Hard nips bordering on bites during exciting play.
7. And so forth

When dogs do these sort of things, they are not trying to be aggressive (in most cases) but engage you in the only way they know how.  It's up to the dog owner to change that.

Although something may be normal or typical for a dog to do, that does not mean it should continue.  Anything that is potentially harmful to the owner or public, whether it is intended or so or not, should be stopped and redirected.

Jumping isn't simply broken.   Training needs to happen for those behaviors to be diverted and changed to something else.   Training provides a means of communication and partnership between a dog owner and their canine companion.   It also allows for a relationship to develop where there is more understanding through increased interaction on both sides.

Trying to figure this out by researching online or through books right now will probably only hold you up from your goal of a better relationship with your dog, although that is an option.   I would suggest that you find a dog trainer that can help you learn to teach your dog some better behaviors:)  There is no real quick fix tip that I can give you that would be reliable in the long run.   However, I would suggest the basics in obedience, and to also find play outlets that your dog enjoys that do not encourage jumping (tracking, tricks, hiking, et).   Combining both of these objectives together, will give you a more complete plan.

This will make life so much more enjoyable for yourself and your dog in the long run (and probably the short run as well).


Have a question about your dog?  Please either e-mail us at mannerlymutts.rubin@gmail.com or use the contact form (bottom of page) on mainedogtrainer.com!   We are always looking for real life blog topics to talk about and answer.

New Puppies!

8 Week Old Shana Madela!   Welcome home.

We just purchased a new puppy.  Shana Madela will have been our third puppy, and our seventh dog.   One forgets a lot of puppy stuff in between the new family members, and especially if your dogs live happy and long lives.   So I am going to attempt to collect as much puppy information as possible for others right here.      Dobermans grow until at the minimum two years, and are not considered mature until three years of age. Taking your eyes off puppies can be quite a mistake, that may threaten the life of your new family member.   Please be sure to supervise your young and learning puppy, to keep them out of trouble and accidental harm to themselves.

So here is some puppy info links, notes and advice:

1. House Training
2. Crate Training
3. Socialization
4. Feeding/Food/Water
5. Vaccinations - also talk this over with your veterinarian.   You should know the risks ET, and the changing environment of vaccinations.
6. Worms and Parasites - Good to know about, but be sure to consult your vet if you think there is a problem.
7. Teething
8. Stages of puppy hood
9. Leashes/Collars-Leash protocols for young puppies (NOTE:  I use a fifteen foot leash for this)  and slip type training collars can be used ONLY to be sure that the collar will not slip the puppy (as many flat collars can and get loose if your puppy tugs at all on the leash).   Training collars should never be left on your puppy when not out walking (and again, remember only to use so your dog can not slip their collar, do not use for corrections at this time)  Be sure you do not start correcting your puppy to early.   They are still very fragile, and all your work now should make corrections minimal in both frequency and level when they are over six months old and old enough to start more ambitious training.
10. Toy Safety
11. Toxic items you might not think about.
12. House Proofing or knowing what to be especially careful of (please note that puppies should never not be supervised in or outside the house)
13. Multi Dog Issues and Training in a Multi Dog Household
14. Off Leash Preparation-Most effective off leash preparation is done on leash.   Many people start off with their puppy off leash, and then have problems with them staying near them when they reach a more mature age, where adventuring is the norm. (see number 8 article on umbilical cord training)
15. Still Growing Watch Activity
16. Puppy Training-You start with the basics in training a young puppy.   First things to do is house training, crate training, training to accept and not eat the leash/collar, and recognizing their name. Commands are trained differently than you might train an older dog with perhaps no previous training behind them.   Generally, if you do this right and consistently, it will be very easy to carry training forward into adolescence and maturity.     I play a lot of games, do luring, and use food when necessary.   Also a lot of praise and fun.   You can't expect the same performance as you would from a more mature dog.   For instance, you are not going to expect a half an hour place from a very young puppy).  
17. Natural but Annoying-Mouthing, barking, occaisional growling, accidents in the house, eating poop, chewing, and more.   You can find some great tips about these sorts of things in this article.   These are all things that can be worked on (please see a dog trainer if you do not know how), but know the puppy has no idea these are not desirable in a domestic human household.
18. Things to Be On Top of Right Away-Signs of aggression, abnormal growling or barking, health concerns, biting (different than mouthing),any abnormal behaviors, and so on.   Be aware though, some very new owners have a hard time telling play signs from aggression.  It's a good idea to consult with a pet professional or trainer to help you understand the behaviors of puppies and what they may mean.

There is lots to know about taking care of a puppy.   I do hope this helps someone out there who is going to be or is enjoying this adventure soon:)

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Sophie the Golden Retriever Puppy Beginning Training

Sophie was a very young 8 weeks when she came to us.   She is just 12 weeks now.   Here are some training videos on her progress.

Day 1 and a couple of days after, Sophie was pretty shell shocked and scared.   Probably only due to the breeder not handling her very much.   Everything was so new.



Crate training and house training the beginning on Week 1:



Week 2 we are working on engagement.   Sophie is a very independent Golden Retriever puppy, so I had to work very very hard to get her to interact with me for training.   Luckily, we had a strong prey drive.



Week 2 Also starting the sit, down, and attention.



Week 3 worked also on sit, down, and attention.   Also walking in the house on leash with distractions.   Now this is her on week 4 starting on our outside and very distracting walks.





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Leash Protocols for Young Puppies

The most common mistake that I see people do with their puppy is start the off leash portion of their training too early. Puppies make owners overly confident that they will stay this way, by the natural instinct of a puppy to stay close to their leaders. However, early lessons that they can get away with their puppy speed, will unfortunately carry over as they grow into adulthood and make their natural curiosity and wander lust worse than it needs to be.

It also starts to inhibit any problem behaviors related to prey drive. In puppy hood you can begin to teach the skills not to chase small furry animals, large furry animals, and cars. All of these things have the potential to be deadly to your puppy and future dog.

At the point that dogs are puppies is a great time to start the checking in process that you are going to desire before allowing your dog to go loose. I do this with puppies or adult rescue dogs with almost no training by doing the following:

1. Inside, while not supervised (definition being complete concentration on the puppy or dog), they are either tethered to me OR in their crate. When I am stationary, I provide a dog bed and toys that they can play with. This is not the sit on the dog exercise, which limits the dog to an area just for quiet. Be aware of where their teeth are in relation to the leather lead, as puppies and adult dogs are fully able to chew through a leash with their back molars very quickly. Otherwise I let them hang out and play around me. If they are tethered to you, you are likely to become aware of when they are in distress of needing to pee or poop. You will also be alerted to their movement immediately.
****NOTE: If I have a puppy that I suspect will worrying the leather lead and I doubt my ability to be aware of it, it is acceptable to use a rope for an indoor ONLY lead or old belt for an indoor ONLY lead for this so you can both relax, and you don't' accidentally loose something valuable. Most puppies are not so stubborn in doing this, but I have had a few small terriers that managed to get their way (and one Thai Ridgeback). So while I was teaching them not to do this, I was using less valuable leads for the inside puppy training. Some puppies are more determined than others.
2. Inside while supervised (definition being complete concentration on dog or puppy), I do allow them to play off lead and most likely with me or a family member. If they are content playing with toys alone, I allow them to do that. Do keep an eye on them though, because they can become bored with that toy and wander off to do something bad. I have a bunch of play sessions that I schedule into my day to allow them this sort of freedom. With a puppy these can be limited to 15 to 30 minutes, and is a good bonding time for the puppy and owner. IF there is a possibility that they are going to be naughty while supervised or have an accident, it can be very handy to have them dragging the leash inside. It is sometimes much easier to step on and grab the leash, than to need to pursue a puppy to catch their collar.
3. Outside, I would only allow a puppy to be completely off leash in an enclosed area unless in a rural setting where you are 100% confident that puppy is staying with. Otherwise, they are most likely dragging a long line. This way you can gently and efficiently stop any dashing off by stepping on the line or grabbing it. This starts the process of the puppy at least starting to ask or check in with you first before you release him/her. You do need to watch for the long line tangling around other dogs and themselves. Be sure that you don't do this near high traffic areas, just in case. It's not in most puppies natures to become serious flight risks at this point, so catching a 20 foot leash should be relatively simple.
4. Bathroom times, I will bring them along on a long line as well (sure to flick the line out of the way) unless I have an enclosed area to let them out in. In some cases, if the owner needs to have their dog eliminate on a six foot leash (they live in the city or they want it to happen on a walk in an area that has a leash law), it is prudent to start that training now. If dogs are given room to go to the bathroom, which I normally have no problem with, it becomes difficult later on to teach them to go on a six foot. I don't think that is your situation, but it is something to think about, if this does apply to you for some reason. (for instance when you take him to where you work, you might find that you have this need)

Although it sounds like more work now than one would want, it saves you a lot of aggravation later on. So many owners come here with dogs that have never been on a leash. When you have large areas to let your dogs off at home, it's easy to forget that you may come across an unexpected distraction when out. Also as you discovered, that distraction can live right across the street from you. Now is an excellent time to ensure your dog has more freedom in the future when it counts, and less while they are very young puppies learning the ropes.

It's also what starts this sort of calm and confident personality in your dog (in balance with the crate training providing a bit of independence early on). That demeanor in your future dog helps people have more confidence in your dog and your ability to handle him in public. Your future dog will have lost none of his ability to have fun and rip it up as needed either.

Remember, you can't do off leash what you can't do on leash first. This is really important to remember in order to keep you from unnecessary aggravation later on.

Some Tips About Your New Puppies

There are things that new puppy owners are almost surprised or concerned about. If you haven't owned a puppy for a long while, there are some things you may have blocked from your memory, perhaps with good reason.

Puppies are wonderful, and if you go about raising them the right way, they will seem a little less demonically possessed at times.

• Puppies are great because you are shaping their lives. The flip side of that is that puppies need to be taught EVERYTHING. Some of the below points will referance that.
• All puppies will mouth at some point. This mouthing can be anywhere from mildly annoying to being readily able to imagine your puppy biting off body parts while you are sleeping. This is a normal part of puppyhood, and yes you are going to need a strategy to teach the puppy (so this does not mean in one day) to bite other things rather than you or your human family:)
• To puppies a fair place to eliminate is someplace farther away from you and their sleeping place. They do need consistent and fair housetraining to learn that you want them to eliminate in an area that the human is happy with (this usually means outside in designated areas).
• Owners of puppies should learn about parasite protection for their young ones. I am including mosquitoe and tick strategies here in addition to worms.
• Sometimes a puppy is acquired in a non breeder and non shelter way. Please visit your vet ASAP to take care of vaccination requirements and other health issues.
• Puppies do not know the difference between your shoe, a hairbrush, glasses, wires, crown molding, door jams, antique heirlooms, or an approved dog toy. They need to be supervised or confined all the time.
• Puppies naturally follow you around when they are very young (generally speaking, I am sure there have been instances where this did not quite happen). Please know that training present and future (though techniques and objectives may differ) is necessary to keep that going.
• Puppies, as they grow, will try things to get there way. The strategies that might be emmployed include growling, whining, barking, jumping, and ET. This is normal, but will most likely get worse unless you do proper training.   DO NOT reward this behavior by giving in.
• Puppies tire easily when they are very young. The long walks and active days will most likely come later.
• In order to be used to and confident around different life noises and activities, puppies need to be exposed to these things. I expose puppies to these things in both training and non training ways. Please remember that socialization does not mean letting your puppy do anything they want OR letting anything/anyone have free reign over your puppy.
• Puppies eat more than adult dogs. Please consult with your vet, and also use the pet food directions on whatever puppy brand you are using. There are different foods for small breed, large breed, and giant puppies generally.
• Puppies poop and pee much more than adult dogs. MUCH MORE. This is just a fact, prepare yourself accordingly to let the little guy/girl have the opportunity to do it in the correct place as much as is humanly possible!
• Puppies that I have had are teething around 15-16 weeks. You may not find these teeth, as puppies tend to swallow them. If you smell blood around them and in their mouth at about this time, teething may be occuring.
• With large breed dogs at least, a puppy isn't considered matured until three and is well within puppyhood until two years old.
  

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Housebreaking Tips

I get a fair number of calls a year for house training advice. I give out a lot of tips for free, due to the fact that while many want the trainer to take on the time and patience to house train their dog, few really want to pay the trainer for their time to do this. Many think that they should not need to pay for such "easy" work. It is i n fact easy work, but time consuming and requires organization, diligence, consistency, and patience. This takes an enormous amount of time out of a trainer's schedule that could be used for something else. I charge 700.00 per week for this with no apologies or deals. I am putting my house and household's well being on the line. Two hours and boarding are a fraction of the time that I will give to the project. Frequently it means I am giving up quite an amount of sleeping time to be sure the dog goes out when they feel they need to go, and making up a schedule and plan for the owners. This does not come cheap, nor is it my favorite type of work by any means. However, if someone is willing to pay for my work for it and needs some serious help, I am more than happy to oblige them.

Here are a list of tips that I give to owners that are seeking to housebreak their dog:

• Puppies NEED to go out more often than adults. Some can sleep through the night, and others can't. Some will need to go out about every two hours at first.
• When first bringing home a puppy, crate training and tethering when your attention can not be on them are great solutions. Let puppy or dog inside for loose play only after they have done number one and two as expected when first entering your home (and in their outside area obviously).
• Write down the times of any "accidents" and add those times to your schedule of when you let your dog or puppy out, until a reliable pattern develops.
• After an accident, immediately bring your puppy or dog outside.
• Keep separate bathroom times when your puppy or dog goes out vs play times. If the dog or puppy does not pee or poop within a reasonable time frame, return them to their crate for about 20 minutes, and bring them out again. Repeat until they have done their business outside.
• The reason for keeping play and bathroom time separate is that dogs will naturally want to play and extend the time. If you make it clear there is a certain time for bathroom and it needs to be done soon, then you will be able to get your dog in and out and then go about your day.
• Be aware that feeding times help you determine about when your dog will need to go. Most dogs need to go out before they eat. Some find that the eating moves things along after too. Notate the times in your journal that your dog pees or poops after they eat.
• Dogs and puppies need frequent access to water, but at night you can pick times (like 7 PM or so) that you put the water away that when your dog out later (at 9 pm for example) they won't feel the need to go out again (in general, every dog's system is different).
• Especially for puppies, after training, exercise and play puppies normally need to go to the bathroom. I usually break puppies in class after a half hour for a potty break. Dogs may need this too, it depends on the dogs system. After a play or training session, it's always a good thing to check if your dog or puppy needs to go out.
• Train your dog or puppy to alert when they need to go by use of a bell or something else to make noise. Also be aware of what your dog or puppy's signals may already be.
• BE SURE THAT YOU LET YOUR DOG OUT DURING SCHEDULED TIMES DURING THE DAY, ONCE YOU KNOW THEIR SCHEDULE. ALSO SHOULD YOU HEAR THE ALERT, LET THEM OUT!!!!
• I do not recommend pad training a dog, unless you are a city dweller and really need this.
• If you work and can not get home during the day, have a pet sitter let your dog out.

Looking for results-orientated dog training? Call Mannerly Mutts at 207-361-4395. Or call Maine Dog Trainer, Robin Rubin, for your Maine Dog Training needs.

Socialization Strategies for Puppies

Puppies are in need of much learning and guidance. One of the most important things to do is to socialize your puppy well in the critical early weeks and months.

The first thing that you want to check is that your vaccinations are up to date, and that it is safe to take puppy out to areas with other dogs and puppies. Take a moment to have a discussion with your vet about the best plan.

Realize that this is not just about letting puppy loose with people and dogs. There is more to socialization than that. You want to monitor within reason how they react to other people and dogs, and also to control the interactions with people and dogs so that your puppy feels safe with you. Ideally practicing training exercises is also a great way to socialize. For instance, practicing a sit before greeting a human friend or a canine friend.

In reference to 2, do some research to find out what puppy play looks like. Talk to professionals about appropriate corrections and signals that dogs and puppies give each other. You want to find out when it's a good idea to step in, and when it's a good idea to let your puppy learn from other canines.

Have your puppy on a leash and collar for safety, especially if you are outdoors and anywhere near traffic. If you are anywhere near traffic, be sure to have the handle of the leash well gripped in your hand. While socializing, an alternative to having your puppy off leash is simply having them drag the leash. That way you can easily intervene when necessary.

Find as many outdoor and indoor places as you can to expose your puppy to new noises and sounds. Remember, the puppy most likely will not feel comfortable with them at first. It is the owner's job to guide the puppy confidently into and out of the experience so that the puppy feels more comfortable the next time. Do not coddle the puppy. It's OK to pet and reassure the puppy, but you don't want to block their learning and taking in of the experience either.

Live in or near York Beach Maine? Here are some ideas that other puppy or dog owners can add to their socializing strategy.

• There are some very pet friendly banks in York Maine. Kennebunk Savings Bank has not balked at customers bringing their dogs in. Be sure that they are ready to remain calm, not pee, and be enjoyable in the bank. Responsible pet ownership allows for these socializing opportunities to remain open to the dog owning public.
• Long Sands Beach in York Maine is an excellent place to socialize your puppy. This is a place dogs (under control and ideally on leash if not fully trained) can get used to the sights and smells of other dogs, children, people, seagulls, water, wind, ET AL. Beaches provide a lot of distraction and learning opportunities for dogs. Above is Bristol, who is still a puppy at just a little over 1 year old. It is very hard for her to keep position among all the excitement around her on the beach.
• Restaurants, coffee places, or ice cream stands that allow dogs to be outside as owners and customers eat are fabulous places to socialize your puppy.
• Many pet supply places these days allow for pets to come in. Groomers, veterinarians, and other canine professionals normally welcome your pets as well, and may provide a cookie to make less pleasant visits less stressful in the future. Below is Boris at York Maine's local pet supply, Ann-imals.
• Finally, don't forget to socialize your puppy inside the home!! Puppies need to know that people you know, who may be strangers to the puppy, are allowed in and welcome when the owner says so. If you have a dog with a territorial or protective aspect to their behavior, this is a very important thing to do. If you are in doubt about whether you are doing any of this correctly, please call in a professional trainer to help!

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Boris and Evie at Doberman Picnic 2010

We found Boris's sister and littermate, Evie.

Who is this vision of loveliness?

Boris thinking sneaky thoughts.

Look, I bark just like you, see?

That treat should be meant for me.

Now that is more like it.

Evie and Boris meet again.

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Bragging About Boris

For those of you following my blog, you know that we have added Boris to our family.   He was born on 10/4/2009.   On 2/19 Boris will be (unbelievably) 5 months old.   He is sprouting like a weed, though I don't think he will be as big as Leon.   He takes on stairs better than the four legged beasties around here (he had one leg amputated that had a birth defect so he could manage better).   In fact, he goes in reverse on the stairs so well, I think, because he doesn't have to deal with that leg at all.

Sometimes he gets around just a little too well.   He is very bright, and if there is something he wants----he will be very focused in trying to get it.   This is something that I, of course, love in a dog.   It tells you that this dog is determined to see through a task.   Granted, we haven't started training yet, so it can sometimes be a task that I am not desirous of, at least in the form that puppy is doing it.

Boris's skills of snuggling are quite great.   He loves snuggling with people and other dogs.   He loves hugs and kisses.   Boris is a very very friendly dog.   He has shown that he can sound the alarm just like any other Doberman, though he is learning this mostly from the Great Danes in the residence right now.   Leon isn't very alarmed in his own house, and knows the other dogs that may come into our yard LOL (or people).

Boris is learning the typical Doberman play style from Leon.   He boxes with his one front leg skillfully.   He also has a play style that reminds me of Jazz.   Boris will nip at the back legs or back side to get a dog going.   If Leon wants to get a dog going, he barks, play bows, or rolls on the floor.   Boris is more the nip and skip away type.  

He is very bright, and I hope to get his companion dog title this summer. I haven't started his training beyond housetraining, crate training, and socialization yet.   Tomorrow we start the formal training.   This will be good because I want some puppy training videos for my client blogs.   Boris has started in particpating in lessons, daycare, and dog walking.

Boris is making a great addition and starting on his adventures abroad.

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Xmas Impulse Purchased Puppies by Robert Rubin

Here at Mannerly Mutts-we love our clients and we love our business. We also like to be able to continue what we love by being paid. That being said, right now is always are least favorite time of the year. This is the time of the year that the impulse purchases made as an Xmas suprise for the family start their training.

Actually what happens most times is when the first lesson fails to deliver a stuffed animal that rarely comes to life (and only when it's wanted to come to life), and normal puppy behavior is the order of the day....
The once joyously greeted puppy is sent uncerimonously back to the rescue. When ideas of having their three year old do all the training with the puppy is not feasible, when it becomes clear that puppies need to be pottied and fed regularly, when it is realized that the five children and two jobs does not provide enough time for puppy care---puppies start re-entering the institutions that they were formerly "rescued" from.

I say every year from February to May it's a fifty fifty shot for first time owned and impulse purchased puppies. It actually takes quite an emotional toll on us, as we would like to save them all. We have a duty to our own dogs and ongoing clients to remain focused and attentive to our responsibilities though. We also lack the financial resources to self fund a non profit venture, though we are considering it to turn out trained and adoptable dogs whose owners fail them.

This time of year is worse than any other time of year due to the shear volume of impulse purchases. Normally, we would screen out these clients right away for our own emotional health. The economy right now though...it doesn't seem wise to turn away business even if there is a slim chance that the owners are going to step up to the plate.

I know my wife would just prefer to take this time off from training rather than try to get through to the impulse purchasing public.

A bad decision made is not one that may affect only your family, which I find extremely sad for the children's and dog's sakes. Your bad decision can affect all sorts of people all the way down the line. Don't purchase living things by impulse.



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For Boris's (old name Jennison) Friends

Here are some pictures of Boris and Leon interacting.  By the way if you look at the post of Magoo Match 1's video, Boris is at the end of it.   You might also hear where my husband is too close to the snack table, and Boris makes a grab for the sugar bowl.

Also on the following puppy articles, you will see that Boris's picture has been included on the Puppy Leash Protocols and Crate Training Confident/Resistant Puppy (which Boris is not---just doing a puppy series of articles now).

And then on my Mainepets blog, I have an album of him playing with Magoo.

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Updates on June 27th 2009

First, before the updates, how cute is my dog? Both my dogs are very cute, but here Leon is allowing Robert to put him in his sweatshirt LOL.

I like the extra bit of fashion management my husband did by rolling up his sleeves.

Magoo-Our little Great Dane obedience student is doing well. His owner lives in Ogunquit, and has enjoyed walking him through town on leash to see what he can do. Magoofy is sweet natured, puppy like, and adorable. I am very fond of his light pink nose. When the large adult Great Danes come to visit, it's like Magoo thinks that is his mommy and daddy. Yesterday they ran through creeks and marshlands together. You know that puppy look of excitement and joy a dog has when they are really having fun? Magoo had that look along with the floppy limbs and ways of a puppy. He is my refuge after a day of working the harder dogs. To just be able to enjoy that puppy joyfulness and sweetness. It's a gift during the day, that is for sure.

Currently we are working on everything stay, time, and distractions. Stand stay, place, sit stay, and down stay. Down first time performance is still being worked on by weaning out any help into the position now. His owner was wondering why, since he is food motivated, I didn't start with treats. Well first, the nice thing about Magoo is he doesn't need to work with treats. He is pretty willing to do whatever you show him. More importantly, since we are going into competition, it will be twice as hard to train food refusal if I get him hooked on the goods. Since Magoo works well without them, there is no need. And if I need to, I will and then phase out the treats.

New Client Leon The Boxer- Can not believe I did not take a picture of this beautiful boy. Next time I will definately remember. A family just adopted him last Sunday. He is two years old from rescue. Really a handsome boy and seemingly mellow and very friendly. He kept trying to crawl up on my lap, LOL. As an owner of Doberman lap dogs and friends of two Great Dane lap dogs, I know that oh so well. Seems this guy is a lover.

The concern with him was that he was getting worked up when walked with other dogs. During our consult, it appeared he is just anxious to play with a potential friend. So that's good news and a problem with a clear and easy solution. My dog, Dobe Leon, helped us discover what was going on with Boxer Leon. Unless some behavior bends kick in, he just seems like a super sweet dog who would like to spend some quality time playing with other canines. They start lessons next week to work on the walking issues, so the owner does not find herself pulled over to potential new friends.

And the Hoobinator-Easier than week 5, but a mixed bag this week. He definately did not appreciate my brother in law and nephew being in the house. He did not even see them, but he heard them. It caused him to have a sleepless night and wake up in THE MOOD. We had a real temper tantrum when he was put into the crate so I could go get lunch with my brother in law. The other days he has woken up happy, but it seems to have renewed his vigor not to go into the crate. He has not done this for quite awhile, and he started to try and growl and redirect AFTER THE MUZZLE CAME OFF. Smart little bugger figured out when the most vulnerable time was. I am careful to keep the leash on until just before he goes in.

Now in the beginning, if his muzzle was on, he was growling as it was going to come off. Then if he was really being a problem, I would send him into the crate with the muzzle on until he had a change of mind. Once the muzzle is off, however, I am not about to put it back on when he's getting revved up. So we are doing reps going in and out of the crate as he earns his dinner, using the PVC pipe for safety. He seems to be starting to get it, and hopefully we can just go back to him entering the crate without making a fuss.

On week six, he also started showing his growling when your hands moved from far away when getting up from the computer, or when my husband went to pet our dog from 20' away. Finally, yesterday, I had left him in the room outside the crate for a good performance, and when I went back in he tried to come at me. So no more out in the room for him right now (not talking about the family or living areas, but the room he sleeps in. I suspect he's getting a bit territorial of it.) I would change up rooms, but then Hoobie gets nervous and doesn't sleep as well. Plus it gets a bit inconvenient. This morning, after he was put in for breakfast, I forgot something went in the room, and he tried to growl me out from the crate!! Such a bad boy, and so we did some reps of crate in out, and down/sit.

Yesterday, we also had a blast in the marsh with Hoobie. OMG, he was racing around like a young puppy, and he got completely drenched. He can sure swim. The rain that has been non stop is good for filling up the water spaces so dogs can swim and cool off in them. We will most likely do more of that for Hoobie today.

My Dog Leon-He has been feeling off for the last week or so. Finally today a noticeable limp showed in his left leg. I am hoping that he strained something not related to his cruciate. He is on strict bed rest now to see if he will recover from a mild strain, or whether we need to revisit the surgery for the left leg. The right leg was done last year or the year before. His knees are the reason that I do not compete with him, and let him do activities at totally his own speed.

I totally hate when my dogs aren't feeling well. Jack has not had many off days in his life. There was that day he got into the food bin, gorged himself, and had me in a panic because it looked like he was pregnant with 13 puppies. I either bungey the lids shut now, or put a whole lot of stuff on top of the food lid. That's the only day I can think of where Jack didn't feel all that well.

Leon got some weird bumpy skin rash when he was a puppy and we were traveling. By the time we got to where we were going, it was already disappearing. Then we learned he liked to roll in dead things when he got a bit of mange. I was aghast. Not my puppy, he wouldn't roll in dead things. Then we found the flattened toad in our yard LOL. Oh well, I guess he is a dog after all, even if he is super cute. Then the knees started to give. Leon is mostly healthy, but his knees are his main health issue that can put him in dumpsville.

My Dog Jack- Has an owner that is too tired to train him most days. However, that's me, and I feel terribly guilty about it. So I am going to buck up, and get back to it with him.

Look how cute he is waiting for me at the top of the stairs. I just love my Jack. He is a ton of work, but well worth it and he has made me a better trainer. Jack has been the teacher of teachers so far.

He challenges me constantly, and learns so fast.

Sorry I don't write more about my non behaviorally challenged dogs here. I really should. As you can imagine, the ones with behavior problems take up quite a bit of my time.



Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Puppy, Puppy Reo:)

****Note the slobber on Reo from another puppy in the room LOL. He was having a good time this day.

Every now and again, we are lucky enough to get a training client boarding with us while they are still a puppy. It's lots of fun for everyone, and also lots of additional work. Puppies are not smaller versions of dogs, they are dogs that are not mature mentally of physically yet. They are in the process of learning EVERYTHING. Sometimes people forget, since they have had and adult dog for the past 9-13 years, of the differences between puppies and dogs.

Here are things that I do additionally, and need to watch for when I have a "puppy in the house"!!!

1) Have plenty of opportunities for them to go out and do their business outside.
2) Supervise, supervise and then supervise some more. When you can't supervise, please crate them or have them tethered to you. For instance, puppy in the house threw up a dish cloth from his owner's home in the first few hours here. I am sure that he had made quick work of it, and the owner's never even knew he was in possition of it.
3) Which is a good lead in to the next point, that puppies are fill of wonder, curiousity, and mischief. The best idea is to make sure that puppy is entertained during his waking and non sleeping hours. Of course you can't do that 24/7, but you need to create interest for your puppy and many play opportunities.
4) Puppies are growing, and they can damage themselves. I try and make sure puppies don't jump from any unreasonable heights. (or expect them to jump into the cab of my truck at too young of an age).
5) Young mischievous puppy behavior sometimes effects the adult dogs LOL. As trusted Pluto proved the other day when he greeted me with the chewed up version of one of my favorite sneakers. He is usually the best boy.....sigh. Apparently he got caught up in some puppy memories even though the puppy had been in a seperate room napping.
6) As an owner or boarder of dogs, it's good to realize that puppies eat quite a bit. They eat almost as much or as much as their adult versions do. This is because they are growing things such as bones, skin, muscles, et.

Have fun with your puppies, but remember that they are growing and learning. It's our job to keep them as safe as possible in the meantime.

Busy and Fun Weekend

There have been a rash  of perfectly normal puppies lately.   That has been fun, of course.   And it can be challenging getting owners through these difficult waters of consitency, repetition, and proper leash handling.  I love the challenge in that.

Very excited though, that this week is a dog named, Zeke, that just may have some real aggression issues.   I love working with dogs like this because it is a challenge, he is already owned by a loving owner (so therefore no worries that he is going to be passed on to some poor dog adopter that has no real understanding of the issues involved), and you can make a huge difference in these cases.   

In puppy cases, you make a huge difference in the future of their lives as well, but you don't get to see the "what they could have become" and change to a greatly improved dog.   Yeah, it would be nice if dogs just got the proper training they needed early on, but some have more complex personalities, and their dog owners do the best they can in the meantime to manage it.

Zeke is one such dog.  Can't wait till he is dropped off this Saturday.   Will add link to his blog soon.