Molded Sits Days 1 and 2 Using Bailey

PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION.

Equipment Needed:
6' Leather Lead
Training Collar (I prefer metal chain training collar)

Explanation and Goal of Exercise: This method of molding the dog into position, teaches the dog to allow our hands to mold and manipulate various parts of their body. The handler is also teaching themselves how to determine if a dog's muscles are relaxed with trust OR tense with distrust. Additionally, it is possible to detect a physical problem by touch as you mold your dog down. This also ready's your dog to sink into a sit readily when given the correction later on (if the correction is even necessary).

Hand Drills (practice until your moves can move swiftly through the motions without the handler needing to think about it, before practicing with the dog):

· Practice these without the dog for a few minutes prior to starting.

· Your left hand will hold leash, transfer to your right hand (grasp near snap bolt on collar), left hand does long stroke down dog's (first few minutes your invisible dog) back, the left hand cups the bum area, right hand gives pressure up on collar.

· At the end of heeling, be sure to introduce your "release word". Some people use "break", "free" or "okay" to indicate that the work is ended. One note about "okay" it is used frequently in conversation, so if you use it, you are going to need to train that it only comes from you and when you are looking at them.

· Only start with your dog once your muscle memory kicks on on this procedure.

STEPS FOR EXERCISE:


STEP 1: You can start from a kneeling position or from a standing position. If you are used to walking with your dog, set them up so that they are beside you before...



STEP 2: Transfer the leash to your right hand so that your right hand grasps the collar near the snap of the leash.



STEP 3: Your left hand will begin stroking down from the shoulders of the dog. When your hand reaches the butt, cup the but and say "sit" at the same time the dog's rear end hits the ground. (be sure you have space between you and your dog at this point, so no cuddling et so that your dog is ignoring the lesson).



STEP 4: At this point, you can say "good girl" and THEN give her the release command. Be very sure that your dog never breaks during good girl, but only at the command given (I use "break" for instance).




You want to do this exercise for 100 reps a day. These can be broken up into 25 a piece of so if you would like. With a young dog, I usually do this to avoid extreme boredom for the dog:)

Maine and New Hampshire Dog Trainer
Mannerly Mutts Dog Training Blog

SPACE IN PLACE, SENDING AND DISTANCE (PLACE PART 3)

THIS IS INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS AND ROBIN RUBIN.  INDIVIDUALS ARE WELCOMED TO USE THESE INSTRUCTIONS, BUT THESE ARE NOT FOR DISBURSEMENT BY PROFESSIONAL TRAINERS FOR THEIR OWN USE.   NOR SHOULD INDIVIDUALS BE DISBURSING THESE DIRECTIONS WITHOUT THE SOLE PERMISSION OF MANNERLY MUTTS AND ROBIN RUBIN.

So now your dog is walking onto the place item consistently by themselves (you are still close to the edge of the place when they go), and remaining in the boarders while you circle them (also from no more than a few inches away.

It is time to introduce the "send" from a distance (a short distance to start) and place as you walk away a distance (a short distance to start).

STEP 1: You may want to switch to the 15' longe line at this point.   You can take up any slack that you need.   Be sure that you have the training collar on your dog and the leash on your dog.  (if you are proficient at the e-collar, you may not need the leash at this point).  The place item should be in the middle of the area that you are working in.  
STEP 2:  As you walk towards your place item, stop a few feet short of where it is, extend your arm, and say "place".  
STEP 3A:  If your dog does not walk onto the place item themselves, there is a few things that you can do.   (1) If you have good aim and will hit the place item (not off the place item in other words) you can extend your arm and throw a treat onto the place item, as you say place.   If any feet are off, you can use your body or leash to correct it so that all four feet are on the place mat.   (2) You can use your body and leash without the treats to guide your dog onto the place mat.   (3)  If you are using the electronic collar, you can use a low continuous to indicate (with help if needed with your body and/or leash) when they are on the correct place item.
STEP 3B:  If your dog does walk onto the place item themselves, you can say "good boy/girl" and give a pat if it won't make them go off the place board.  
STEP 4:  Now walk away a couple of feet to do your circles.   Keep eyes on the dog so you can provide a well timed correction should they think of walking off the place item.
STEP 5A:  Should the dog attempt to leave the place you can (1) quickly step forward into the dog so they go back onto the place (2) use the leash to move them back onto the place or (3) use the electronic collar to indicate that they walk onto the place.
STEP 5B:  Should the dog stay on the place, please tell them that is a "good place" or "good boy/girl".   Be sure that you haven't inadvertently made either of these a release word.
STEP 6:   At the point that you are ready to release your dog, WALK BACK TO THE PLACE ITEM.   Then you can give them your release word and walk off with them.  

You don't want to increase the distance of the send or the walk away until the dog is dealing with the distance with successful performances four out of five times.

Video example of starting the send:



http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com/
http://mainepets.mainetoday.com/

Next Steps in the Place Command (Part 2)

So now your dog is walking onto the place without your going over it with them.   Here is the next step, and there are more coming.   Remember that the end goal in this exercise is to have your dog cross an area to the place themselves while you are nowhere near the place.   Here is the second phase of the place command training.

****NOTE:   This is intellectual property of Mannerly Mutts and Robin Rubin.   If you are a professional interested in using these training plans, please contact Mannerly Mutts and a fee arrangement can be made.

STEP 1:  You still have a leash and collar on your dog.   The place (board, mat, dog bed) item is in the middle of the room so you can walk around it, and use all sides to place your dog (so that they do not generalize).
STEP 2:   Now as you approach the place, from a couple of steps away from the boarder of the "place item", extend your arm as you say "place" before the dog walks onto the place (different than before as you were saying place as you walked over with your dog, and only when the four paws were on the mat).
STEP 3:  If your dog does not make it onto the place themselves, use the collar lead and your body language (IE nudge into the direction) to help your dog to the place mat.   Be sure once there, that all four of their paws are on it.   If paws are sticking out beyond the boarder, just place your feet near them.   If they try to walk off and you catch them early, you can normally just move towards them quickly, and they will walk back onto the place area. 

NOTE:   IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE HERE THAT YOUR DOG SHOULD NOT BE TOLD TO SIT OR DOWN.   OTHERWISE YOU WILL RUIN THE UNDERSTANDING THAT A PLACE HAS BOARDERS IN WHICH THE DOG IS RESPONSIBLE FOR KEEPING THEMSELVES.
STEP 4:  Once all four dog feet are on the place board, and your dog remains in whatever position he/she wants to, Have your six foot leash totally loose (this is so your dog can't dart away and have a game of chase), and circle close to the boarders of the place item (mat, board, dog bed).   When a successful circle has been made, you can tell your dog "good place" and give them a scratch under the chin.
STEP 5:  Now it's time to introduce your release word.   At the end, say break and lead your dog off the place board.   You can tell him/her that this was very good.   You should only leave the place board once the performance has been good (IE you made circles around them very closely).

(to be continued....next widening the circle followed by starting the send.)

Video example of starting the send:



http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://www.dognewsisgoodnews.com/
http://www.mainepets.mainetoday.com/

The Very Beginning of The Place Command

One example of a finished place command:




The place command is usually taught around the same weeks that they stay commands are taught.   The difference from a stay command is this becomes a "send to" where you can send the dog to stay.  Once you get going you can use this for a crate command or a on top of command, unless you want separate verbal cues for this.  

Uses for a Place Command:  Sending your dog from company that may not wish to greet them at places like the dinner table and door without your escorting the dog to the desired location.   Behaviorally modify dog's behavior that may have a territorial aggressive bent.   Send away from an area that may hold danger like a broken glass surrounding the owner.   Interrupt an oncoming conflict between dogs by sending one or two away.   Send a fearful dog to a safe area.   Move a dog around a room while completing housework (keeps them safe from chemicals you may be using).

Goal of a Place Command:  To direct a dog to an area without needing to escort them to the area yourself.   To train a dog to recognize what and where a place is, and to both travel to and place them within those boundaries.

Equipment needed:   Need a leash and training collar in addition to the place itself.  Many trainers use a raised platform for a place (usually made with plywood, rug, and pvc piping) so that there is a definite raised boundary area to begin.   Also many trainers usually make a negative place (pvc boundary only) for ease of traveling with it.   However, a dog bed, mat or something with a definite boundary on which your dog can fit all their paws into laying down will do.

THE VERY BEGINNING OF THE PLACE:
STEP 1:   Position your place equipment in the middle of the room.
STEP 2:  Start heeling your dog around the room.
STEP 3:   Walk in a heel with your dog over the place area.   When all four paws are in the place, say "place".
STEP 4:   Repeat step three from every angle of the place mat or bed (remember dogs can totally interpret something as "just from this direction", so help them to learn to generalize the command by doing this).
STEP 5:  After several (25 or so) repeats of this, stop short of the mat, and see if the dog is ready to step on themselves.  

Video example of the beginning steps of teaching a place command:







To Be Continued...


http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

2011 Goals for Boris

(related to my maintenance blog)

Here are my goals for Boris:

• Slow out of door when guests arrive (human and canine) in addition to the stay that he already does.
• Lessen the barking when a child near, walks away, or something exciting is happening (perhaps a sit stay while being petted)
• Canine Good Citizen
• UKC Novice
• Scent work

http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com/

Leon's Goals in 2011 (related to my maintenance blog)

(related to my blog on maintenance)

Here are my goals for Leon:

• To finally get him a CGC, which he has the skill set to do. I might even go for a CD but without him doing auto sits (his knees) and just reading for the 1 minute sit, which isn't a problem as long as we do not overtrain.
• Have him able to do a long down so if I am doing a private or group lesson, I don't need to check to be sure he is staying in it (Leon knows when I start talking to someone directly and involved that my attention has wandered).
• No more allowing the excited barking when he wants to play or have the ball thrown (must be quiet). This is for when children are around here playing ball, they get alarmed when Leon barks even though he is just doing it because he is having fun. Also helpful if I am training Boris, so I can work him on stays as I do the tug game with Boris.
• Keep up the heeling off leash on equipment around the neighborhood and on the beach (which means being sure we do daily repetitions of this, and let's go command both while on the move and in the house).
• Ah, yes, I want to teach him to retrieve just not his balls to hand for play, but a working retrieve to gather up loose leashes or small dogs that are on longe line and playing when ready or if they try to wander off to far. Also to pick up items that I drop for me. (not so much for me but because he loves to do it). Also to fetch directionally and with "no" and "yes" markers.
• Work on the scent work with him, so when winter trials come up (which is when I like to do this sport) he will be ready to go and get some titles.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com/

The International Association of Canine Professionals

Early on in my dog-training career, I was introduced to the International Association of Canine Professionals as a quality organization for those professionals who work with dogs.  I have always liked this organization, even as it has gone through some growing pains.  I joined in 2003 or 2004.   I became a professional member in 2007 or 2008.   This year I will finally stop procrastinating and turn in my submission for Certified Dog Trainer, which will be reviewed by accomplished members of the International Association of Canine Professionals.

The International Association of Canine Professionals has planned and thought out their membership levels, bylaws, position statements, annual conferences, members needs and wants, online discussion boards with purpose and intelligence.   For instance, one cannot become a voting member simply by paying dues.   A professional in the dog services field must submit evidence of their years of service before attaining such a status in the organization.

Many reasons exist including the above that cause me to maintain my membership:

1. The thoughtfulness that went into creating an organization for canine professionals.
2. Member boards allow for frank conversation from anything dog to the actual policies of the International Association of Canine Professionals.  I have belonged to other professional organizations where these types of discussions were not allowed, and you could be put on suspension for trying to bring such items up.
3. The talents of long time members like Martin Deeley, Vivian Bregman, Margot Woods, Jack and Wendy Volhard, and more.
4. IACP’s dog trainer certification test(s) is/are comprised of case studies and essay questions.   A dog trainer needs to answer questions in their own words for review of approved accomplished members.   The fee for this is quite reasonable at 75.00 for submission.
5. Members are frequently asked their opinions and whether the International Association of Canine Professionals is delivering what their members want.
6. Unlike some other organizations, there is a voting process that members are involved in.
7. Much thought goes into their annual conference each year.  

Additionally, members of this organization are truly passionate about dogs and their professional work with dogs.   This infectious enthusiasm motivates and drives others to better themselves and set goals for improvement of their craft.  

If you are a professional in the dog services or supplies business, this organization will open up much information, networking opportunities, and exposure to different and new information.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com

http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Versatile Blogger Award

Thank you All Things Brittany for our Versatile Blogger Award!  With this comes the horrifying task of listing seven things about myself.

1. My elbows, thumb and fingers are double jointed.
2. I am about to have my 45th birthday!!
3. I recently have gone on a successful weight loss campaign, but only after my scale was actually at 199.  I am now 169.
4. My dog, Leon, is such a good boy, and shows well in public, but in private he can be a huge brat .
5. I wish I had more energy on a daily basis.
6. Halloween is my very favorite holiday.
7. Two of my little toes on one foot are the same size.

I am nominating the following for the Versatile Blogger Award:

Today At Applewoods
The Truth About Shock Collars
Mister Rugby Sevens UD
Maine Hunting Dog Owners

Those who receive the Versatile Blogger Award are:1. Asked to pay it forward, if you will. Thank the person who gave you the award and link back to them in your post.
2. Tell your readers seven (7) things about yourself.
3. Give this award to other bloggers you feel are worthy of the award. (Up to 15)
4. Contact those bloggers and let them in on the exciting news! 
http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Observations of Some New Clients in The House

Getting to really know the ins and outs of a dog is 24/7 and can run from 6 months to a year for most dogs.   Don't take this as a negative, this is an adventure for dog owners who really love their dogs.   It also involves exposing your dogs to new things continuously, and my preference while training.   This not only socializes your dog (when done right), but it increases the dog's ability to generalize in training.   In other words, sit is no longer just in your living room when no one else is around.   Sit is in the park, outside a busy store, in your car, on the beach, in a hotel, e.t. while any number of distractions (humans, toys, cars, kites, Frisbees, balls,) are around.

When you are working with your dog with and around all that, you begin to know your dog very well.  Some people can own a dog for years, and not have any clue as to their dog, because they do not spend all this time with them doing things.  Course getting to know your dog is only the first step, what you do with that knowledge comes later.

I have a shorter time frame to know dogs that come here.   An hour a day coaching lesson for the dog or even one on one with the dog only tells me a little about that dog and who they are right now.   When they board with me or even spend the main hours in daycare with me, that tells me more about who the dog is at that moment.   I take that knowledge to come up with realistic goals and expected improvement for the dogs.   Dogs always improve and I have found, thus far, can always be trained and modified behaviorally.   (assuming work still happens in the future with the owner using the commands and skills while also maintaining the commands and skills).  Not everything in the world can always be done, but a lot can be done even so that makes the relationship stronger and life a lot easier.   The first step is knowing the strengths, weaknesses, and overall quirks of the dog.

Which is not to say that every dog can be "saved", some dogs are too dangerous to even improve upon.   Some situations (i.e. owners temperament, children in the house, surrounding environment) are not going to be good to make that particular dog safe in the situation that they currently live in.   These particular clients are not in that class at all.

By the way, in these busy weeks of August, we have the following dogs boarding with us:

• (Our two) Leon and Boris (6 years 10 month old Doberman male and 1 year 10 month old Doberman male)
• Tommy (5 plus year old pit/lab male our long term boarding client who has almost been here 1 year
•  Bristol (has been here before but not so frequently)
• Shaman (2 year old or so Giant Schnauzer comes about every six months or so)
• Brujo (4 or 5 year old Giant Schnauzer male comes about every six months or so)
• Rocko (1 or 2 year old Maltese male)
• Spartacus (new client Dobie male puppy of 9 months who was here 1 week ago)
• Boy (19 month old Pitbull X fairly new day and train client who is doing a mini board and train now)
• Jujube (2 year old Yorkie/Schnauzer mix male who is brand new as of the beginning of this week)
• Virgule (4 year old Poodle/Schnauzer mix female who is brand new as of the beginning of this week)
• Daycare in and out of the mix will be Ollie (1 year 10 month old Plott Hound mix male) Alyssa (2 year old Siberian Husky female), Bella (4-5? year old Golden/Lab Mix female),  Sadie (less than 1 year old Vizsla/Lab X female), Harley (3 year old Great Dane male)

So here are the observations on the newest training clients to the pack.

Boy 19 month old male (thought to be) Pit bull X, though I am thinking Cattle Dog or Border Collie X (not sure I see Pit bull in there).

Strengths:  Intelligent, curious, good physical energy, playful, young, wants to please you, likes to work and train, likes a good adventure, generally seems to like other dogs (although can be reactive with new ones, especially if playing and active) and people (though this has not been tested out in any great extent yet), sweet friendly and affectionate,

Weaknesses or Quirks:  Reactivity on leash, no other formal training for obedience, socialization is weak, resource guarding food items and sometimes drinking water (not horrible, but it's a short step to horrible especially as a dog gets more comfortable in his surroundings or if it is allowed at all), skittish around new things or things not encountered often before, may have prey drive to cats (I am waiting to see if we cross any of their paths),  his excited adolescence can more towards over excitement (meaning frustration can turn into aggression), he likes to boss,  distracted around new things and experiences, he has been very scared of traffic coming up behind us when training the heel and auto sit (also improving much),  does not like face to face greetings with dogs that are strange to him (but does get over it), he can get reactive to your hand near his muzzle if he is over excited barking (IE threatening to bite or making a nip---however he reacts well to stroking of the muzzle and holding under the chin while quieting in an agitated state), doesn't mind being in the crate but getting him into the crate is problematic (which is related to the fact that he also isn't a fan of tight spaces, and wasn't so thrilled about stairs when he very first came here)

Overall, Boy is an excellent dog.   I think he will train up well.  Whether some of his quirks improve greatly or perhaps even are totally extinct remains to be seen. 

Jujube 2 Year Old Male Yorkie Schnauzer X

***Interesting to note that at first Virgule seemed the less confident of the two, and they both seem to trade roles sometimes.   However, Virgule is much more confident socially than Jujube, when Jujube allows Virgule to go off and adventure.  And this is why it is important to give dogs, even very close dogs, some individual time for their enjoyment.  Jujube has gotten much better at letting his sister go adventure a bit on her own, allowing Virgule to become even more confident.

Strengths:   Incredibly cute (you will also see this posted under weakness, cause he uses it to be a brat), loving and affectionate, likes to be near whoever is taking care of him all the time (also a weakness), loves his sister Virgule (also a weakness LOL), learns quickly though he will give you a run for your money (he is a terrier after all), wants to please, likes to be praised big time (in other words will work or modify his behavior for affection given consistently and with rules), happy to work and train, he is often near his caretaker and easy to get,

Weaknesses:   Napoleon classic little dog complex, reactive to new dogs checking him out even when they are being polite, will charge forward at new dogs without much provocation, over protective of sister, uses cuteness to try and get away with being naughty (really more of a human fault as it is hard to resist), out of shape and overweight which probably means that he needs more to do during the day (as well as have his eating monitored), was barking non stop when anxious (have cut down on that significantly through getting him used to being out and about in new situations and around new dogs/people, plus using command and praise for the behavior desired), probably a little too dependent on sister, and he does seem to have at least a little separation anxiety,

Jujube seems to have gotten a few bad habits by perhaps being allowed to do things he ought not to because he is so cute and small (like charge at other dogs or even jump on them).   The dogs came in with a bark collar, but the real problem is not the barking but the excited state of anxiety that they get in that produces the uncontrolled barking.  Jujube has had to learn how to chill when dogs are playing around him and not with him (haven't seen if that excitement has gone down at the beach yet), and also not get so jealous when his poor sister seeks to play with a new playmate.

Virgule 4 year old Poodle/Schnauzer X female

Strengths:  Sweet and loving, calm in general, confident in general, pretty social though she can nip if she gets anxious, smart, happy to work and train, can be independent easily,

Weaknesses:   barking also when anxious but not too bad (probably due to the bark collar that she had come with but that we did not keep), nippy when unsure of other dogs even when they are being polite (could be due to bad habits at dog park), skittish around people sometimes (does not come easily and can be hard to catch)

Virgule needs a lot less work than Jujube, although having her come to us more readily (and probably therefore her owners and children) would be good.   However, there are many steps to that, so I may need to shortcut something in order to help

The items listed as weaknesses can change and improve while the strengths are enhanced.  If you follow a good consistent training plan for the dog, then things can be made much easier for the dog owner and even more so for the dog.   A calm and confident dog (and my preference is also a trained dog) is a dog that you don't mind taking out and about as often as possible.  

Boy's owner has some physical limitations.   So his goals are (among many) to not be reactive on leash and walk well with his owner.   This also means working on his confidence and socialization skills in general as well.

Jujube and Virgule's training goals were to make "better times for us and dogs".  Also jumping greeting was listed as a problem.   What many owners don't realize is this is a symptom of an insecure dog.   You don't want them in that state of agitation, and certainly guests and strangers, who are onlooking, do not enjoy that even if they do eventually calm down.  Then another unexpected thing comes into the picture, and they get anxious excitement again.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

May 2011 Work With Alyssa

These days we are using all the commands in mock "routines" for "real life" situations.   Additionally, I am getting Alyssa used to being handled by strangers now when she needs to with the goal of having a stress free veterinarian appointment:)

So this is all old work that will show somewhat of how we got to where we are presently:)  For instance all that molding work we did, and continue to do, will now start to pay off for stranger examination.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Lessons Learned As A Professional Dog Trainer

Leon and Boris hanging at the flea market.

I always have questions when I am learning.   Experimentation is what I do especially if I am told "it can't happen that way".   I like to know why, and I usually find out.   Then I can impart the reasons to my students instead of just saying "because that is the way I learned it" or "these particular people said it was bad or could not be done".   Instead (after trying and succeeding) I can say "because it confuses the dog when you drop your shoulder but are still going straight" or something along those lines.  I know why to use it, and then why it will not communicate to the dog.   I can answer whether I think a shortcut to training is a good idea or not.  


Sometimes I find that something can work or that if tweaked it can work better for me.   Trainers should continue learning, doing, polishing up their skills, and most importantly growing as a person and a trainer.

Here are some lessons that I have learned:

• We can be too boring for our dogs , but we do not need to go to extremes to not be boring to our dogs.   (like scooping up road kill or being a constant source of entertainment for the dog)
• Dogs need exercise and fun, but you don't have to push your dog to exhaustion in order to have a good dog.
• Dogs love learning and the mental stimulation that comes from learning.  Giving your dog a job can be as simple as requiring them to walk at heel in the city or where ever you need them to.
• Treats have a place in dog training, but they can also muck up the process for a dog perfectly happy to work without treats.
• Training is not hard, but it does take consistency, patience, and discipline for the human most of all.
• Silence and time are little known tools of dog training, and not spoken about often enough.
• Balance in all things is the key to success in many aspects of life, including dog training (article to follow).
• Yes, human footwork, body movement, and mental attitude are important in communicating what you want to a dog.
• As boring as repetition might be for humans, DO NOT make them boring for your dog.   Also repetition is a very important part of the beginning learning process for the dog.
• Prepare your dog, and they will learn for the long term better.
• Use it or you will loose (or maintain your training).
• Think the pet business is without politics, LOL, guess again.
• Definitions and meanings are very important when outlining the concept of dog training.

All of these ideas could use an article or two each to expand on them.   I just wanted to leave with a few thoughts on ideas that have cemented in my head while learning my craft.   A dog trainer needs to grow and learn, and it's something I continue to enjoy doing.   Any professional dog trainer should do the same, and be able to talk about what they have learned to DO and have implemented themselves successfully.

I began thinking about this when reading so many blogs on dog trainers who only harp on what not to do (in their opinion only, and usually without much understanding of what they are talking about), strawman arguments or false stories, all the while unable to talk about either what they have learned to do OR demonstrate their success.

Beware those that can complain, but can not train:)

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

From Last Weekend Into This Week

Murphy, a petite Black Lab girl.   She has been coming here for a few years now, and is much fun.

Tomber Jomber, of course, our unofficial dog for the next year.   He's great.   Look at that button nose, those eyes, the pink lips and round face.   He's the entire package:)

The family set up at the local flea market again.   Here is some tea stuff.

Here are the collectibles.

Here is Robert pretending to have sold something, but we just got there and have not even unloaded yet .

Here are my many books that make a good summer read for cheap.

I don't know this little guys name, but I see him and his sister (Kiwi below) walking all the time with their owner.

And since Kiwi is walking all the time, I don't know what she is fed that she gets so chunky.  She is awfully cute though.

Our boys, of course, Leon and Boris.

We met this cutey, Rose.

Milo, our boarding guest, an awesome Great Pyrenes male.   So very sweet.

This is Newfie, Mary, who is getting older but still has a young and playful spirit.

Rocko and Boris hanging out.

Virgule decides I am not so scary, and hangs out under my desk while I type out some blogs.

Meanwhile, Vigule's brother, Jujube, passes out from a long day next to her.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Boy's Progression to Starting Heel

This is Boy's first week of work here.   We also do sit on the dog in week one, and if you click on Boy, you will find a training blog that links up to each of the exercises (longe line and sit on the dog).

Then on day 8, we move onto week two work of heel and auto sit.  

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Imagine what your dog can learn?

Example Directions Week 2 Work Heeling

This is meant only as an example of info that you should get from a professional trainer.   Also, this is part of a whole training plan, and the training plan does not start with the heel.

Also included are example directions if an electronic collar was being used.   So far, I find not using the electronic collar at first makes for a much better foundation for the dog.   If you do your job well, the electronic collar can be added on later and very easily.   One downfall of an electronic collar is it makes dog owners think their training skills are better than they are.   Working towards no equipment, and then adding something like the electronic collar on later for safety and peace of mind is very helpful.

I always prefer to start with traditional training collars and leashes at first.  It also teaches the humans how to best train their dogs, and that is so important.

PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION.Heeling Begins

Equipment needed:

-6' Leather Lead

-Training Collar

****NOTE, IF THE LONGE LINE HOMEWORK HAS NOT BEEN DONE, BEEN DONE INCORRECTLY, OR DONE INCONSISTENTLY DO NOT START HEELING. IT IS NOT FAIR TO THE DOG TO DO THIS, AND YOUR DOG WILL MOST LIKELY NOT BE COOPERATIVE.

Explanation and Goal of Exercise:

To teach the dog to walk in an exact position for convenience of the handler. The Longe Line Work has started the commands of heel, come, and future off leash behavior. It is also a method to teach the dog never to pull on the leash. However, a dog is still able to get under foot at times or not be in such a convenient position when they are out and about with you. The goal of heeling is to have your dog in an exact position for ease of movement in a busy city, or when you are bringing in the groceries, or just so you don't trip over your dog. Heeling also keeps your dog focused on you rather than jumping on an interesting human or dog OR becoming snarky with a passing stranger.

Also teaches the owner the concept of slack leash = more control. So that the opposition reflex of a taunt reach does not kick in OR the formula for aggression that restraint + frustration = aggression. We are teaching the dog to decide correctly and be focused on their "job". A dog's job can be as simple as allowing for a stress free walk in the city.

Due to the configuration of training collars and the need to pick a side, generally heeling is on the left hand side of the handler, dog is ideally a foot away from the handler, their shoulders should be around where your hip is if it went straight down, and their head should be a bit in front so you can see it peripherally.

General Steps for Heeling (assuming normal left side heeling):

• STEP 1: Confinement period of two hours still holds (for best results). Part of this confinement period can be sit on the dog.
• STEP 2: Be sure that training collar is on correctly as noted in week one.
• STEP 3: Leash should be in right  hand, thumb is through the loop, and fingers close over the entire handle (so that it is closed in your hand). Your right hand should be straight at your side and not drift up. The leash slack should hit below your knee (accordion up the excess leash in your right hand). Your left hand should be at your belly button point in the center of your stomach AND EMPTY. IF YOU ARE USING AN E-COLLAR, HOLD THE TRANSMITTER IN YOUR LEFT HAND.

NOTE [stim] OR [constant] WILL INDICATE WHAT TO DO IF YOU ARE USING AN E-COLLAR FOR THIS. OTHERWISE IGNORE TAPS, AND USE TRADITIONAL METAL TRAINING COLLAR.

• STEP 4: You are going to say "heel" (use of your dog's name beforehand is up to the handler) [stim] (like you would say stop, not like a question or request) and move forward starting with your left  foot. A major mistake that most beginning handlers make is to stand still and look at the dog. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE FOR YOUR DOG TO HEEL UNLESS YOU ARE MOVING!! IF YOU ARE LOOKING BACK OVER YOUR SHOULDER, YOU ARE BASICALLY INDICATING THAT YOUR DOG SHOULD LAG BEHIND YOU.
• STEP 4A: If your dog does not move, [stim]the leash will be tugged (if positioned properly) by your left knee and bring him forward. The correct longe line work will have begun preventing the dog from not following you, however. You want your body weight and knee to bring the dog forward, and not have him see you jerking on him or at the lead. Please do not repeat the command if your dog does not start with you, but keep moving forward. We are training a dog to respond to the first command, not multiples of the command.
• STEP 4B: When the dog forges ahead OR is not paying attention, we will make a right about turn. A right about turn is moving in a 360 degree turn towards your right, so that your dog is on the outside of you. A (T) step (pivot with left foot [stim], pivot right foot in new opposite direction [stim], let out slack and leash and trot in new direction maximum of 3-4 paces) is a very convenient way to do this turn. Done correctly, your knee should again bring the leash forward with you. Another way to do it is to let all the slack out of the lead as you turn, and then your body weight brings your dog forward with you.

• STEP 4C: When your dog is heeling wide or lagging, we will make a right turn. Weight shifts to left foot [stim], start right turn with right foot and take [stim] 2 to 3 running strides.

• STEP 4D: When your dog leans against you OR crowds OR is not paying attention, we will execute a left turn. Place weight on your right foot [stim], then initiate the turn with your left knee.

• STEP 4E: When your dog drifts out of position, [constant] snap lead with your right arm to your side, arm should still be straight from start to finish. DO NOT lift up or let your arm float, this takes the leash out of a workable position.
• STEP 5: Reward his attentiveness and when he keeps position with praise.

• STEP 6: At the end of heeling, be sure to introduce your "release word". Some people use "break", "free" or "okay" to indicate that the work is ended. One note about "okay" it is used frequently in conversation, so if you use it, you are going to need to train that it only comes from you and when you are looking at them.

NOTE: YOU SHOULD ONLY HAVE YOUR LEFT HAND ON THE LEASH IN RARE CIRCUMSTANCES. FOR INSTANCE SOMETIMES IF I AM DOING A LEFT TURN, AND THE DOG IS TRYING TO CUT ME OFF BEYOND WHERE I CAN STEP INTO THEM, I WILL USE MY LEFT HAND. IF I HAVE A REACTIVE DOG AND A DOG IS COMING TOWARDS ME ON THE RIGHT SIDE, IT'S SOMETIMES NECESSARY TO GRAB THE LEASH WITH YOUR LEFT HAND IF YOU KNOW YOUR DOG IS GOING TO TRY TO WHIP AROUND IN FRONT AND YOU HAVE A RESTRICTED SPACE TO MANEUVER LIKE A SIDEWALK.
Footwork:

• Footwork is so important to communicate to the dog what you will do next. With these directions, they will be able to pay attention to you and follow your directive without verbal commands. Footwork must be done the same every time to be effective.
• You always start the heel with your dog in the left hand side in ready position (IE the dog is sitting to your left at heel position, which means their leg and shoulder align with your straight leg). You then say [heel] or [dog's name] heel as you step forward with your left foot.
• When you halt to indicate that your dog auto-sit (see notes on sitting). You say "sit" as you plant your left foot, and close up with the right foot.

Description of Pace Changes:

• Normal is the your pace when walking deliberately and with purpose toward a goal.
• Fast is where you are traveling forward at a run (not a sprint). YOUR legs are moved at a much faster speed than normal, and your dog is traveling with you in heel position.
• Slow is generally considered about half of your normal pace. If you do this haltingly and without a constant pace, your dog may start to think you are going into a halt. Avoid that.

Practice Heeling in These Patterns During the Days Indicated:

• Days 1 thru 2 will use right about turn, left turn, right turns. Additionally, you will use normal, fast and slow paces. Straight on lead heeling will end with dog places (molded) into a sit. Between sits, the heeling distance should be 10 feet. Do not exceed this 10 foot rule during these days. NOTE: Not all of the sits are to be in the straight line heeling.
• Days 3 thru 4 (always start with a few minutes of working the day before lesson first to warm up you and your dog) lengthen straight line heeling from 10 to 20 feet. During these sessions, make your turns quickly to the left and right (or right then left). It is sometimes useful to have a straight line evident so that you know you aren't traveling with the dog.
• Days 5 thru 7 (always start with a few minutes of working the day before lesson first to warm up you and your dog). Increase straight line heeling from 20 to 40 feet.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Fun On The Beach With Spartacus and Alyssa

Spartacus, Alyssa, Boris and Leon all spend some free time playing on the beach.  It's great to have your dogs play in public and be absolutely safe.   9 Month old Spartacus is able to have fun without giving his owner a heart attack:)

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Different Parts of Alyssa Work On The Place

I am attempting to show both finished training, and training in progress.   This is some of Alyssa's earlier place work on 6/11/2011.   She is more advanced, especially in her sends and the different areas that she can recognize as a place now.

I like to show the progress to show the work, and then later what is actually accomplished.   The work is enjoyable work for me.   I think it should be enjoyable for owners, in that they should enjoy the progress and the bond/relationship being formed.  It's not always about making sure the human is entertained.  Sometimes it's just about our dogs .  The work is about an hour a day, and as you can see it's disciplined for us but not all that hard.

Practicing with two different places:



Practicing place for five minute durations around lower mid level distractions:



Here is a fun day we had with Alyssa training and hanging out in Portsmouth NH!



http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Gus Lovely German Shepherd Boy of About 3 Years +

Gus just hanging with Robert, Leon, and Boris.

Gus playing ball with the boys.

Leon discovers Gus is pretty fun after all.

Buddies, Gus and Leon.

Buddies, Gus and Boris.

Really quite fond of each other, Boy and Gus.  Boris has his side to the camera.  My hair needs color, I am thinking a violet purple...what do you think?

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

More Off Leash and Beach Dog Fun!

Here is some more dog and beach fun!

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Boy Longe Line Day 1 of 3

This is Boy who started with us last week on 7/11/11.   This is the first day of training, which starts with "sit on the dog" and ends with "longe line".  The first week is all about quiet, peacefulness, and having the dog pay attention to you.  We are not getting the dog to pay attention by flashing treats at them, as this is more about calm and confidence with these exercises.   This happens to be especially good for Boy, who has never learned to  walk on leash with a collar attached   He belongs to a lady that is somewhat physically disabled, and she just can't chance the sudden lunging and fleeing for freedom.

Many things are slowly being changed up for him.   The very first thing was putting a training collar on that is designed to not allow for slippage over his head.  He has slipped other collars.  The next thing is calm confidence from his handler as we start the exercises.   This will begin to transfer to Boy as we get further into the week.   In fact, I plan on posting Day 5 tomorrow, which is the second set of days in the longe line exercises.

He is a short video of his first day.   While the video is only a little over a minute long, the first day included 1/2 hour sit on the dog, 1/2 hour walking between two points, then ending with dropped leash for 20 minutes.



Days 4-7 will deal with more distractions and movement on my part.  We have completed day four today (7/14/2011), and hope to post day five tomorrow.   Boy is already much improved.   He does have fear issues like going up stairs, going through small spaces, having dogs come right into his face or coming towards him in an enclosed area that he feels trapped in, e.t.

He is improving at a decent rate though, and so it's really important for him that the training is not rushed or short cut at all.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Fun, Games, and Training for this Week (Video Summary)

This is a little summary of snippets of our week this week.  I forgot poor Ollie (Plott Hound X of 1 and 1/2 years) in my credits.   My apologies to Ollie and his owners .  

Here are some of the good times and a little work we have and do:



More of our training video backlog to follow.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Busy Busy Busy, Guests and Students

I have a backlog of training videos and pictures to post.   However, I have many guests to entertain and train this week .   So I will take the easy way out for the moment, and post some pics and videos of these cuties having a good time.

Alyssa training on Ellis Park near Short Sands.

Alyssa keeping a down stay from a distance at Ellis Park on Short Sands Beach.

Alyssa keeping a place on a bench in Ellis Park on Short Sands Beach.

My dogs, Boris and Leon, attending the weekend flea market where we were set up.

Shot of Leon and Boris with the booth in the picture.

There is my husband selling things so we can feed the dogs this week .

Spartacus, nine month old client's male dobie, chewing on a nylabone.

Spartacus trying to cozy up to elder, Leon, in his crate.

Boris, Leon, and Tommy taking it easy on a hot day (airconditioned thank goodness).

Close up of nine month old puppy, Spartacus.

New training client, Boy.   He is being trained for a physically disabled woman so as to walk nicely on a leash and be a bit more confident around new things.

Spartacus and Boris share the old jeans that I use for a tug toy.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Arlo Boarding Client

Here is our newest boarding client, Arlo.   He's doing great, a little bit shy but interested in everyone.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com

http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Alyssa and Spartacus Mock Mouth Fight

http://www.mannerlymutts.com

http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com