Example Directions Week 2 Work Heeling

This is meant only as an example of info that you should get from a professional trainer.   Also, this is part of a whole training plan, and the training plan does not start with the heel.

Also included are example directions if an electronic collar was being used.   So far, I find not using the electronic collar at first makes for a much better foundation for the dog.   If you do your job well, the electronic collar can be added on later and very easily.   One downfall of an electronic collar is it makes dog owners think their training skills are better than they are.   Working towards no equipment, and then adding something like the electronic collar on later for safety and peace of mind is very helpful.

I always prefer to start with traditional training collars and leashes at first.  It also teaches the humans how to best train their dogs, and that is so important.

PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION.Heeling Begins

Equipment needed:

-6' Leather Lead

-Training Collar

****NOTE, IF THE LONGE LINE HOMEWORK HAS NOT BEEN DONE, BEEN DONE INCORRECTLY, OR DONE INCONSISTENTLY DO NOT START HEELING. IT IS NOT FAIR TO THE DOG TO DO THIS, AND YOUR DOG WILL MOST LIKELY NOT BE COOPERATIVE.

Explanation and Goal of Exercise:

To teach the dog to walk in an exact position for convenience of the handler. The Longe Line Work has started the commands of heel, come, and future off leash behavior. It is also a method to teach the dog never to pull on the leash. However, a dog is still able to get under foot at times or not be in such a convenient position when they are out and about with you. The goal of heeling is to have your dog in an exact position for ease of movement in a busy city, or when you are bringing in the groceries, or just so you don't trip over your dog. Heeling also keeps your dog focused on you rather than jumping on an interesting human or dog OR becoming snarky with a passing stranger.

Also teaches the owner the concept of slack leash = more control. So that the opposition reflex of a taunt reach does not kick in OR the formula for aggression that restraint + frustration = aggression. We are teaching the dog to decide correctly and be focused on their "job". A dog's job can be as simple as allowing for a stress free walk in the city.

Due to the configuration of training collars and the need to pick a side, generally heeling is on the left hand side of the handler, dog is ideally a foot away from the handler, their shoulders should be around where your hip is if it went straight down, and their head should be a bit in front so you can see it peripherally.

General Steps for Heeling (assuming normal left side heeling):

• STEP 1: Confinement period of two hours still holds (for best results). Part of this confinement period can be sit on the dog.
• STEP 2: Be sure that training collar is on correctly as noted in week one.
• STEP 3: Leash should be in right  hand, thumb is through the loop, and fingers close over the entire handle (so that it is closed in your hand). Your right hand should be straight at your side and not drift up. The leash slack should hit below your knee (accordion up the excess leash in your right hand). Your left hand should be at your belly button point in the center of your stomach AND EMPTY. IF YOU ARE USING AN E-COLLAR, HOLD THE TRANSMITTER IN YOUR LEFT HAND.

NOTE [stim] OR [constant] WILL INDICATE WHAT TO DO IF YOU ARE USING AN E-COLLAR FOR THIS. OTHERWISE IGNORE TAPS, AND USE TRADITIONAL METAL TRAINING COLLAR.

• STEP 4: You are going to say "heel" (use of your dog's name beforehand is up to the handler) [stim] (like you would say stop, not like a question or request) and move forward starting with your left  foot. A major mistake that most beginning handlers make is to stand still and look at the dog. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE FOR YOUR DOG TO HEEL UNLESS YOU ARE MOVING!! IF YOU ARE LOOKING BACK OVER YOUR SHOULDER, YOU ARE BASICALLY INDICATING THAT YOUR DOG SHOULD LAG BEHIND YOU.
• STEP 4A: If your dog does not move, [stim]the leash will be tugged (if positioned properly) by your left knee and bring him forward. The correct longe line work will have begun preventing the dog from not following you, however. You want your body weight and knee to bring the dog forward, and not have him see you jerking on him or at the lead. Please do not repeat the command if your dog does not start with you, but keep moving forward. We are training a dog to respond to the first command, not multiples of the command.
• STEP 4B: When the dog forges ahead OR is not paying attention, we will make a right about turn. A right about turn is moving in a 360 degree turn towards your right, so that your dog is on the outside of you. A (T) step (pivot with left foot [stim], pivot right foot in new opposite direction [stim], let out slack and leash and trot in new direction maximum of 3-4 paces) is a very convenient way to do this turn. Done correctly, your knee should again bring the leash forward with you. Another way to do it is to let all the slack out of the lead as you turn, and then your body weight brings your dog forward with you.

• STEP 4C: When your dog is heeling wide or lagging, we will make a right turn. Weight shifts to left foot [stim], start right turn with right foot and take [stim] 2 to 3 running strides.

• STEP 4D: When your dog leans against you OR crowds OR is not paying attention, we will execute a left turn. Place weight on your right foot [stim], then initiate the turn with your left knee.

• STEP 4E: When your dog drifts out of position, [constant] snap lead with your right arm to your side, arm should still be straight from start to finish. DO NOT lift up or let your arm float, this takes the leash out of a workable position.
• STEP 5: Reward his attentiveness and when he keeps position with praise.

• STEP 6: At the end of heeling, be sure to introduce your "release word". Some people use "break", "free" or "okay" to indicate that the work is ended. One note about "okay" it is used frequently in conversation, so if you use it, you are going to need to train that it only comes from you and when you are looking at them.

NOTE: YOU SHOULD ONLY HAVE YOUR LEFT HAND ON THE LEASH IN RARE CIRCUMSTANCES. FOR INSTANCE SOMETIMES IF I AM DOING A LEFT TURN, AND THE DOG IS TRYING TO CUT ME OFF BEYOND WHERE I CAN STEP INTO THEM, I WILL USE MY LEFT HAND. IF I HAVE A REACTIVE DOG AND A DOG IS COMING TOWARDS ME ON THE RIGHT SIDE, IT'S SOMETIMES NECESSARY TO GRAB THE LEASH WITH YOUR LEFT HAND IF YOU KNOW YOUR DOG IS GOING TO TRY TO WHIP AROUND IN FRONT AND YOU HAVE A RESTRICTED SPACE TO MANEUVER LIKE A SIDEWALK.
Footwork:

• Footwork is so important to communicate to the dog what you will do next. With these directions, they will be able to pay attention to you and follow your directive without verbal commands. Footwork must be done the same every time to be effective.
• You always start the heel with your dog in the left hand side in ready position (IE the dog is sitting to your left at heel position, which means their leg and shoulder align with your straight leg). You then say [heel] or [dog's name] heel as you step forward with your left foot.
• When you halt to indicate that your dog auto-sit (see notes on sitting). You say "sit" as you plant your left foot, and close up with the right foot.

Description of Pace Changes:

• Normal is the your pace when walking deliberately and with purpose toward a goal.
• Fast is where you are traveling forward at a run (not a sprint). YOUR legs are moved at a much faster speed than normal, and your dog is traveling with you in heel position.
• Slow is generally considered about half of your normal pace. If you do this haltingly and without a constant pace, your dog may start to think you are going into a halt. Avoid that.

Practice Heeling in These Patterns During the Days Indicated:

• Days 1 thru 2 will use right about turn, left turn, right turns. Additionally, you will use normal, fast and slow paces. Straight on lead heeling will end with dog places (molded) into a sit. Between sits, the heeling distance should be 10 feet. Do not exceed this 10 foot rule during these days. NOTE: Not all of the sits are to be in the straight line heeling.
• Days 3 thru 4 (always start with a few minutes of working the day before lesson first to warm up you and your dog) lengthen straight line heeling from 10 to 20 feet. During these sessions, make your turns quickly to the left and right (or right then left). It is sometimes useful to have a straight line evident so that you know you aren't traveling with the dog.
• Days 5 thru 7 (always start with a few minutes of working the day before lesson first to warm up you and your dog). Increase straight line heeling from 20 to 40 feet.

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