The Resource Guarders

Our late and great Jackie CD was a
resource guarder, due mainly to
his health condition.

First, let me define what a resource guarder is in my opinion. A resource guarder is a canine, who has an overdeveloped concern that something they want is either going to be taken away OR they will not have access to it. This concern is usually expressed at first through growls, putting their paw over the object, lining objects up around them, or eyeing down an on comer. If this problem is ignored and not dealt with immediately, teeth will most likely be involved soon after. It does not take a canine who has this fear or concern long to realize an argument can be ended quickly with teeth. After the teeth are involved, bite inhibition decreases exponentially if the problem is ignored.

NOTE:   Often puppies will try to intimidate you, but just need a firm no and discipline.   An adult rescue may try and challenge you as well, but again a no or firm reprimand may easily sway them.   Not all dogs that try this once or twice are actually resource guarders, but may become them if an owner is unusually reluctant to stop the behavior or has a visible fear of dogs.   However, the type of dogs that I am talking about in this article are usually having a larger problem than the before mentioned.  Also it is the actions the dog shows when the item is attempted to be retrieved rather than the actions alone (gathering up toys, some dogs just enjoy placing them) that indicate whether you have a problem or not.


This concern for the canine exhibiting these behaviors may be very real (actually not receiving proper care or nutrition) or WAS very real at one time (stray and starving for a period of time and needing to fight to be fed). More often, the concern isn't the reality of the situation (in other words nutrition and care is more than adequate). Sometimes, there are times where we must restrict our canine companions access to things, or need to take something away from them. For instance, the need to remove garbage that is dangerous from a canine's mouth.

What are some things that dogs might consider resources?

• The owner, themselves. A dog might guard that owner from their own spouse or children. Sounds funny, but if you are dealing with this problem...it's really not.
• Strange people they like in general. Actually, my dog, Jack, is the only dog I know to have done this. If he decides he likes another dog's owner, then he used to attempt to guard that owner from their own dog.
• Something (anything like a piece of paper) that another dog or human has OR is about to bend down to get. The dog in question does not need to have the item themselves, they may just be guarding it from you or another canine.
• Food
• Toys
• Rocks
• Dead Things
• Favorite animal friend
• Things like seaweed that are not really food, but dogs know they can ingest.
• Laundry
• Rooms
• Crate
• Vehicle Interior
• Doors
• Tissues (what is it with Springers and tissues?) or paper products like towels in general
• Dog beds or mats
• And everything else that I have forgotten

This condition can come about due to many variables in a dog's life. They are not only the sole property of adult rescue dogs whose history may be unknown, believe it or not. Unfortunately, this can happen when responsible owners adopt a puppy. Here are some things that I have found make up the perfect storm for a resource guarder:

• Serious medical issues early on that make certain resources far to important to a young puppy. One of my client's dogs, Cerber a handsome GSD, had elbow problems and surgery starting before he was six months old. He was regulated to a pen area, and had just a few 15 minute potty breaks a day due to the healing process. He had both his elbows done, so it was closer to a year before he was able to do anything resembling what other dogs can do. He seriously did not want people taking either his food or peanut butter kong. You know this sort of thing is a judgement call. I believe the right judgement is for the sanity of your young puppy that he has something to do if he has this issue. However, be aware of the behavioral problems that may develop so that you are prepared.
• A first time owners' attempts to be sure their dog is not a resource guarder, but are done a bit too vigorously!!! Then what happens, is the dog gets a very real concern that things are going to be taken away willy nilly. Dogs need relaxation and breaks, and overdoing something can be a serious mistake that may in fact bring on the behavior that you didn't want in the first place.
• If a dog has a "ingesting" problem, and certain things needed to be kept from him/her; this can later manifest itself into resource guarding. My dog, Jack CD, had this very problem. Some dogs just get fixated on eating things they shouldn't.
• Prior abuse or neglect can cause this problem. If the dog ever had to fight for their food or could not count on food being given at all. In some dogs, this can cause a problem later on, if the dog gets out of this unfortunate place and into a good home. Of course in the original home, it will most likely be a problem, but neglectful and irresponsible owners won't notice or care!!
• A puppy that was separated from their litter a bit too early OR the mother did not nurse them, could have quite a few issues including resource guarding. So just be aware, if you decide to take a dog from a breeder and this has been disclosed, that you are going to need to be prepared and start a plan quite early to combat issues like this. Likewise a puppy from a shelter that has the same issues. It's great to rescue these puppies, just be aware that they often have special needs.
• I will commit the wost blasphemy here, and say it might just be part of their personal makeup. Humans all have unique personalities. There are some things that annoy us individually that do not annoy others (the sound of scratching annoys the heck out of me). Dogs are just as individual as we are:) I am not convinced that my dog's, Jack's, low tolerance for dogs being around "his" stuff isn't just what makes Jack, well Jack. Even in Jack's case, he is much more tolerant now, but we keep an eye out for the patience level waning. He's not thrilled about humans necessarily taking his stuff either, but he has a more infinite patience level for that.
• Insert here the infinite number of other things that I have not thought of yet.

A training and behavior modification plan is, of course, the best action in these cases. Some cases will be much simpler than others. It really seems to depend on how long the initial behavior was either allowed to continue OR the correct solutions were not found right away. Sometimes an owner is working diligently on a problem, even with the help of professionals, but the wrong answers and direction were given. This is not to say that every dog can be saved, and there is always the perfect answer. However, the vast majority of dogs that have ended up in the general dog owning public are able to be greatly improved upon in their ability to adapt to living with the human population as a pet. Children can be the great variable in this situation, in that you would hope a parent would never endanger their children no matter how much they may love the dog. If I don't take on a resource guarding case, it is normally because I don't think the children in the family should be exposed to the dog. Again, some problems are bigger than others, and some resource guarding dogs have a fairly simple issue that does not cause immediate endangerment.

So what sort of things would I expect to hear as options in a training and behavior modification plan for a dog whose primary problem is resource guarding:

1. The trainer should be interested in a detailed history of the dog with a strong emphasis on any medical history.
2. An obedience training plan is a must. The dog must be able to be communicated with. Yes, additional things that do not need to be done for just obedience training will need to be implemented, but it will be all for nothing without a strong partnership and communication developed to support the progress. (Can't emphasize enough the importance of a really, really well trained place, stay, and come command. These are stationary and movement commands that really really help with a dog that has aggressive responses to situations, and helps them learn the alternate things that can be done.)
3. The balance of discipline, trust, and respect should be talked about. With a dog like this, you need to have trust for the dog to relax around you should they have a treasured thing, which they have been allowed to have. Discipline is the form of communication that says there are some behaviors that absolutely will not be tolerated. Respect comes from the understanding of the working relationship between you and your dog. I didn't mention love. Why? Because I have yet to meet the dog that did not love and adore their owner no matter what. The actions of resource guarding have nothing to do with a dog not loving you.
4. Options options options. How will the trainer make this work? How will they measure their progress? What will tip them off to the fact that it's time to try something new or change up something? The number of tools, methods, experience, and knowledge of very many different things stacked the odds in favor of your individual dog finding the right mix.
5. So many new trainers or trainers that do not work with resource guarding or aggressive dogs THINK they have seen every personality in dog training. You are going to want to know that your trainer has seen a wide variety of personalities, and that they are continually surprised and awed by what they can see. I have had my easiest and hardest dogs this year alone. This isn't to say I haven't had many a hard dog in the past, because I most definitely have. In six short years, I have lost track of the hundreds of dogs that I have seen. I know that owners are sometimes not exaggerating in any form or fashion what they are actually seeing. Experience will give you a trainer that knows the behavioral bends that a dog can take, and will let them know that they are not going to know that dog (necessarily) in the first few weeks.
6. Management vs training. What do I mean by that? Well first of all, I firmly believe that any good training is bound to involve behavior modification on some level. Training is a method to communicate and set up a partnership with your dog. Behavior modification is the change in a behavior that is not wanted in the human household (and is a reasonable expectation) to one that is more acceptable. Management is the means by which to keep people and other living beings safe. Crates, muzzles, when to allow the dog near people, and managing the environment are all ways to manage or stack the odds for safety. Management normally includes things that you eventually do not want to need to count on OR you want to eliminate them all together OR you want to have to use them in very limited and short term ways. In any aggression or such case that I can think of, there is going to be a degree of management discussed.
7. And everything else that I have forgotten to mention.

So know that this is a serious problem. Every dog does not have to love to share, BUT do not let serious behavioral issues manifest and fester. You may be faced with a much larger problem down the road if you do not find the appropriate and working answers quickly.



Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Daycare 1292013 with Crosby Zeus Ollie and Boris

Boris hippity hoppetying along in the woods.

Boris stalking Crosby in the woods.

Boris starting a chase with Crosby in the woods.



Boris starting a chase with Crosby and Zeus in the woods.


H

Crosby exploring in the woods.

Crosby and Ollie (I think) exploring in the woods.

Crosby and Boris catching a scent in the woods.

Crosby and Zeus being pals on a woodsy adventure.

Crosby following along with Zeus.

Crosby and Zeus are good pals.

Ollie must have been still for a moment sniffing the tree.   Boris waits to chase Ollie again, as Zeus and Crsoby look on.

Crosby, Zeus, Ollie, and Boris find some interesting scents.

The Zuesicle!

Side view of Zeus with his pals (Ollie, Crosby, and Boris).

More of Crosby and Zeus hanging out.

Crosby does not notice that Zeus has caught the scent of something.

Crosby running towards the camera.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com

http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Clips of everyday activities at Mannerly Mutts

Have a new board & train puppy in named Sophie.   She is 8 weeks old.

Sadie 1 and Sadie 2 playdate.

Sadie 2 daytrain on distractions and stays.

Stormy getting good and spoiled.    Our 11 year old lady forever foster.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Recent Local Canine News

Newport Maine dog alerts owners to blaze, home is destroyed

Man and dog hurt in Londonderry crash

Londonderry dog park group eyes new site

Fisher tangles with dog and owner

Mass man drunk when he shot his dog

Revere not taking dog issues seriously

Communities in Mass bitching about the overturned Breed Specific Legislation, and seek reversal of it for per municipality

Yancy the firedog:

Returning to Maine for now, but may go again to Montana

Fire dog Yancy returning to Maine after Bennyhoff's retirement

Gonzo the blind sled dog:

Blind sled dog thrives in races with his brother's help

Blind sled dog wows NH tourists

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Getting Another Dog? Preparation and Training Required.

The acquisition of an additional dog in the home can happen for a variety of reasons. The most common reason is the idea that the existing dog needs a canine companion. One human family member may want a companion that is more their special friend than another’s. An active family member may now need a younger dog to do certain activities with. A lot of good reasons exist for the introduction of a new canine member into one's home. Be aware though, this often comes with work to maintain a harmonious relationship between the two.




The fantasy or expectation is that the dogs will get along famously, if all goes well in the pre adoption or purchase meeting. Owners assume that little work or oversight will be needed to keep the initial relationship as is. Likewise, if a dog dislikes another dog on the first day, it's assumed they will never get along. Either case could end up as expected MAYBE, but there is a lot more at play than the first impression. Also, in general, potential owners assume if they get a young puppy, that puppy will grow into his/her position without conflict. This is also not necessarily true. So many factors will influence how a multiple dog relationship goes. If owners are given the right tools and knowledge, this relationship can work out an amicably. There are very few cases in which a situation is just not going to work with work and preparation.



When returning home with the additional canine companion, here are some steps to take and things to think about:

1. Only adopt any dog when you have the time, energy, and resources to care for them properly. Adopting dogs during stressful times such as the holidays or personal stress is never a good idea.

2. The incumbent dog should have a skill set to a standard in basic training. Dogs will not know via osmosis or intuition what you want them to "not do". It is so much easier to have a way to tell them to do something. Two untrained dogs coming together is a bad idea.

3. Training the additional dog should start immediately and separately from the incumbent dog.

4. Total freedom for a new dog should never be allowed whether they are the first dog or the next dog.

5. Start off on the right foot with boundaries and rules in place for both dogs.

6. Know how to read your incumbent dog's signals in body language and mannerisms. Observe and start to know the language of the canine addition. It may well be drastically different, and with time and care, you will begin to know this dog as well.

7. If you are not sure what you are looking at, assume the worst. Always better safe than sorry.

8. Do not leave them alone unsupervised. It's really important to fully know both dogs in the multiple dog context AND the ability of the dogs to resolve conflicts BEFORE even thinking of leaving them alone unsupervised. Some breed fanciers will not leave their dogs alone unsupervised.

9.  Transporting home-Either pick up the next dog without your incumbent dog present OR be sure to have a crated area in the car for transport home.   Nothing worse than driving along with two dogs that are not sure they like each other yet.


It is important to look for things that stand out and suggest that an amicable relationship is just NEVER going to occur.

1. Dogfights that show a total lack of bite inhibition or bites in dangerous areas.

2. Absolutely no signs of like or affection for the other canine. I am not talking about dogs that amicably ignore each other until the relationship is established; I am talking about where it's real obvious that there are going to be NO friendly interactions.

Special training considerations in multi-dog homes:

1. Commands-I use this general rule in my multi dog household. Commands not started with the dog's name, mean that all dogs in my voice range are expected to obey (or at least the ones that have been trained on this rule). Commands that start with a name, mean that specific dog needs to obey the command.

2. Release words-Release words that start without a dog's name first, mean all dogs within my voice range may release. Release words that start with a specific dog's name, mean that only the dog indicated may release.

3. Both 1 and 2 are things that must be taught to your dogs thru training exercises.

4. Remember a small altercation turns into large problems if not dealt with quickly. If you don't know what to do, seek professional help immediately. It will save you a lot of headaches and/or heartaches.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com/
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Aggression, Why You Need Help

This article is not a manual for how YOU can train your dog out of aggression. This is informative as to how you can identify qualified help, and the suggestions that IMO you may hear that might be good or bad.

It is unacceptable to not to seek out professional help if you are having an aggression problem with your dog and you do not know how to deal with it. The Internet is not way that the proper advice can be given which will successfully train YOUR dog with behavioral issues.  Neither will advice received through friends that are not dog training professionals, or strangers that have no measurable experience in dog training.

THE MAIN POINT: If you have a real issue with your dogs behavior AND you have no real idea on how to solve it, find a professional immediately. This will most likely shorten the time in which the issue will be solved, be successful in the long run, and will probably save you money and grief in the end (car accidents, biting someone else and being sued or your dog being euthanized because of it) A "real issue" for me is one that even slightly endangers humans (including yourself), other animals, or themselves.

Imagine that your dog has just broken his leg. Which would you do first?

A. Look up on the Internet ways to fix a broken leg

B. Either immediately rush to the emergency, or call your vet for an appointment.

I'm crossing my fingers that you picked B!! If you picked A, I hope it's because you live in a real remote area where veterinary care is days away.

If your dog is suffering from a behavioral issue that puts others at risk, it's really the same thing as a physical problem that needs professional care and expertise. Doing the wrong thing could cost your dog his life and hurt someone else. In extreme cases it could cause the death of someone or something else. It's nothing to fool around with.

Dogs are not televisions, stoves, or vacuums. You will not find the magical fix e-mailed to you or in writing in a manual. Your dog is an individual. While some blueprints can be found for a general training plan, many dogs present with unexpected reactions or symptoms of physical problems that you won't find there. This is why you need professional and experienced help when dealing with these problems for the first time.

WHY DO YOU NEED PROFESSIONAL HELP?: These problems are complex and combine a variety of factors including medical issues. It is quite likely that you will need a veterinary diagnosis first of physical problems. Unfortunately, aggression to likely sources of pain or confusion, generally, are learned behaviors at this point. So even with the physical issues cleared up, it is most likely that you will need training help to be able to communicate with your dog that they are safe with you.

Not all aggression comes from physical changes in a dog, but the sources can sometimes be surprising and confusing, if you are not familiar with reading many different types of dogs and their behaviors. You need someone who has some experience doing this, and will also know if they see something really different about this situation.

THE BEST TIME TO START A GENERAL TRAINING PLAN/WHY IT PREVENTS 80% OF PROBLEMS: An owner has purchased a dog or puppy. A great way to prevent problems in the future is to learn how to train your dog to a measurable standard. That means finding a trainer that will train you how to train your puppy under distractions reliably. If you are successful in doing that, and you maintain your training through the life of your dog, you will actually avoid many behavioral problems.

Occasionally a puppy will be a little more difficult in behavioral problems for a myriad of reasons. Finding a trainer during puppy hood or early on in ownership will help you effectively deal with oncoming problems early on.

Most owners wait until the problem has become worse. Some owners have friendly dogs who start to have physical challenges due to their changing body and age and then act out. If they had put the time and effort into obedience, they would be able to give their dogs directions when things change. For instance, you might tell one dog to come to you instead of jumping on their sister with the arthritic hips in her old age. Things like this can avoid fights that are caused by dogs whose owners are not watching out for them or stepping in. Repetition of these commands helps the other dog learn that perhaps her sister does not like this play anymore.

When this training wasn't done early on, it makes for a stressful situation that needn't have been later on. Do not wait and see if it gets better! Get professional help immediately.

HOW TO LOCATE A TRAINER: Recommendations will help you flesh out who is in your area. If this person trained with their dog, please be sure to note that dog's behavior or progress. If you are doing an Internet search, search for [state + dog trainer] or [state and city + dog trainer]. If you look under pet services in the Yellow Pages, there should be even more dog trainers that you can identify. Professional dog training organizations such as the International Association of Canine Professionals, also have referral lists of dog trainers.

I personally advise against looking specifically for a "niche" trainer in these situations (clicker trainer, choke collar trainer, treat trainer, puppy trainer, pet trainer, electronic collar trainer). I don't mean that you won't come up with a "niche" trainer in the end. I suggest that regardless of whether you want a purely positive trainer or a balanced trainer (a subject for another day) that the first thing you search for is qualifications. You can always identify the best qualifications in either category (and perhaps learn a lot in the process).

HOW TO FIND THE RIGHT AND QUALIFIED TRAINER FOR YOU ONCE YOU HAVE LOCATED SEVERAL TRAINER OPTIONS: Alright, so you now have a list of possible trainers. How do you find the right one? I set up a trainer selection form for a client that had moved out of the area. If a trainer is not up to providing this information for you (and you are having a serious behavioral issue), then you know that trainer is not for you. Also be sure that they even will deal with the problems that you are having.

At the end, you should have at least one trainer whose experience and qualifications impress you. Please use common sense in this search. If it does not sound right or feasible to you, it probably isn't right or feasible for you. If during the training you become uncomfortable, you may need to stop the training and service. However, doing your research up front is the absolute best way to hedge your bet on getting the right trainer for you and your dog. If you have done enough research, you should have some backup trainers in mind if the first one does not work for you.

WHY DON'T ALL DOG TRAINERS DEAL WITH AGGRESSIVE DOGS? Many average dog owners will not follow the directions or do the homework as they should, which puts the dog trainer at risk (physically at risk and a liable risk). A dog trainer realizes that a client without a work ethic will also put others at risk, and that liability may come back to haunt the dog trainer, regardless of the quality of training and advice that was given.

A large portion of trainers that do not use all tools at their disposal for their clients, will not work with dogs whose training will require them to veer from their philosophy. Therefore, they can not work every temperament of dog out there. The unfortunate conclusion that these trainers can come to is only euthanasia for these dogs rather than the use of tools that they are unfamiliar with or do not agree with. A small portion of these trainers will be happy to refer you to someone else who deals effectively with these cases.

Many clients expect that bargain shopping will work when selecting a trainer for their aggressive dog. Personally, if that is the main concern of someone calling me, they need to call someone else. Trainers who are ethical in their dealings will try to only work with clients that realize the human clients need to do the work in order to get the results. Regardless of method, the work that I am talking about are repetitions and drills to get the response that they want. It should not be a robotic process, but a lot of that depends solely on the attitude of the owner. An owner that has not realized the seriousness of their problem (IE they are bargain shopping) will not do the work (most likely). The proper direction in training will only come from a qualified trainer with experience. Remember paying someone money who will not be able to help you reach your goals is like flushing it down the toilet. In the end, the trainer with the higher fee may be able to save you money, if they can help you achieve your goals.

The physical risk, liability, and work involved for the trainer does not go along well with a discounted price. Also, clients that normally ask for this outright are the ones that will not value the free training given to them. I know, I have learned this the hard way.

INFORMATION THAT YOU CAN PREPARE FOR YOUR TRAINER BEFOREHAND:

HISTORY Trainers, who regularly deal with these issues, will have a client interview form set up. This will have questions covering how long you have had your dog, what your experience with dogs have been, who they interact with, and the history of their bites or behavioral issues.

IDENTIFY BITE LEVELS It is often helpful to a trainer if you can identify the bite level that your dog has inflicted. Bite inhibition vs a dog that has no inhibition in their bite can tell a trainer a bit about the dog, and how they can keep themselves safe. It can also help tell a trainer if you or your family are in immediate danger.

TRIGGERS These are things that you have observed before the aggressive behavior became full blown. There are all sorts of things that can lead to aggressive responses prey drive, resource guarding, on come of a seizure, protection of territory or self, fear, or control issues. It's good for a trainer to get a sense of what MAY BE driving your dog before the first meeting.

ACTIVITIES WITH YOUR DOGS What do you do now with your dog, and what are your reasonable goals for the future? Sometimes long term goals won't be reached in the initial phases of training, but plans can be put in place to reach the crucial goals. For instance, it is very hard to change your living environment for your dog (city living vs country living) and so the primary goals may be to get your dog used to their environment first, and then move on to other goals.

THE FOUNDATION THAT YOU NEED FIRST FOR A SUCCESSFUL RESULT: Obedience training is a language between the human and a canine companion. The relationship that comes out of successful communication is a partnership. Without this relationship and language, behavior modification can not IMO be successful. You should know roughly what a training plan looks like, and what basic obedience training normally includes.

OTHER SUGGESTIONS AND EXERCISES THAT YOU MAY FIND IN A SUCCESSFUL BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION PLAN:

• Request for a veterinary and health check.
• The human owner learning a calm, quiet, and confident attitude, even when internally they may not feel that way.
• Exercises that teach a dog to relax and chill out that are non confrontational.
• Ways the leash can be handled for safety and effective direction to the dog.
• The ideas of clarity and consistency when communicating and training your dog.
• Equipment explanations and demos, which can be used to keep yourself, your dog, and others safe while training the correct responses to situations.
• Explanation of body language and position, and how that communicates itself to your dog.
• Emphasis on the quality of foundation training and the technique, timing, and quality that the human client is bringing to the table.
• The concept of NILIF (nothing in life is free). Earning praise, attention, play, food, and privileges.
• The difference between fear aggression (defensiveness) and forward aggression.
• Discussions of other options may be necessary. This usually refers to re-homing or euthanasia.

SUGGESTIONS THAT YOU MAY HEAR, WHICH I AM NOT TOTALLY FAMILIAR WITH THE RESULTS (QUESTIONABLE BUT MAY WORK):

• Constructive Aggression Treatment Scroll down for explanation.
• Agility (I just wince when I read this, but done with a responsible owner it may have benefits) I would strongly suggest that obedience to a high measurable standard is done first.

REALLY BAD SUGGESTIONS THAT YOU MIGHT HEAR (THOUGH HOPEFULLY IT'S AS RARE AS I HAVE FOUND IT):

• Hanging a dog.
• Hitting a dog.
• Kicking a dog.
• Yelling along with the dog when they go into a reactive mode.
• Being very confrontational from the get go.
• Avoiding the situations all together (as opposed to steps for the dog to learn to be in control in situations).
• Management as the total solution.
• Fixes that do not include any work beyond a few minutes on the owner's part.
• The training only happens in weekly lessons (as opposed to ongoing work and training being accomplished by the owner and handler).
• That residency and board/train programs alone will solve the problem that the owner/handler is having with the dog. Owners need to realize that they have to learn as well as the dog, otherwise old habits will resurface.

NOTE: If some one's (or some thing's) life or physical well being becomes endangered, this is a totally different thing. That situation needs to be stopped by any means. Probably, also, this is not a dog that belongs as a domestic pet in the average dog owner's home.

SAFETY-WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW AND KEEP IN MIND WHEN WORKING WITH AN UNKNOWN DOG:

• Getting on the other side of anything to block an aggressive dog can prevent serious injury.
• If a dog is coming at you, offer them something else (like your jacket or anything loose that you can get in their mouth first.
• Getting through and closing a door can keep you safe.
• If you have their leash, and you can hook it to something before leaving to ensure the dog does not get loose and attack something or someone else.
• Thick (non summer) jeans, socks, full leather shoes, and a baggy thick sweatshirt can keep dogs from getting at your actual skin.
• It's very unwise to kiss an unknown dog (no matter how friendly they behave and look) on the face.
• It's also very unwise to hug an unknown dog (no matter how friendly they behave and look).
• If you must pick something up from the ground, presenting the dog with your back butt can at least direct a possible bite to the least vulnerable part of your body.
• Do not stick hands and faces into cars with dogs in them.
• Do not open doors to places that have dogs. Be sure that the owner comes to answer the door.
• Not allowing full access to privileges and things, while getting to know a dog, can start the relationship off on the right foot.

There is so much more that can be gone into on this topic, but that is all that I have time for now.

Questions? Call e-mail Maine Dog Trainer, Robin Rubin, at mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com. Or call 207-361-4395 for your Maine Dog Training needs. Mannerly Mutts Dog Training services also covers New Hampshire Dog Training and Massachusetts Dog Training needs in limited areas.

Tips for Bonding with Adult Rescue Dogs

I have had three rescued Dobermans. Two of them were two years old when they came here, and one of them was weeks old, Boris. Our first dog was a three year old female Doberman that we bought from a breeder, when we were checking out her puppies.

Our first dog, Jazz, did not think my husband was the center of her universe at first (for a good three months or so while we figured it out). Our fourth dog, Jackie CD, did not bond with my husband for six months (he had been returned for this several times after not bonding quickly to other men). Whether it was Jazz and Jackie CD or the hundreds of dogs that come through, my love for dogs has nothing to do with them instantly accepting me.

Here are some steps that can make a rescue relationship go more smoothly:

1. A dog's previous history does not equal the potential of the dog. Though they may need some time and patience, dogs do very well going forward into their future, generally.
2. Each dog is an individual. You can not expect a new dog to replicate your relationship with a deceased or another dog. Realizing the individuality of the dog and appreciating it, is a first step towards your bond.
3. A dog may gravitate towards one member of the family at first, especially if that member spends more time with them. The family member that feels unbonded may want to spend a few weeks doing most of the things with the dog, while the other (super bonded) family member downplays their role until bonding begins.
4. Dogs have their own special interests. It is important to find out what interests your dog AND PARTICIPATE IN THAT ACTIVITY WITH THEM.
5. Generally speaking, it is a rare dog that won't bond with you, eventually.
6. IMHO it's a myth that a dog that doesn't bond  quickly or immediately will be apt to be more aggressive or harder to train.
7. While most dogs generally give their heart unreservedly, some dogs need to trust their owner first to not only supply their basic necessitities but to be there and keep them safe for the long term.
8. Not all dogs thrive mostly on treats and cuddling on the couch. In fact, I think most dogs thrive with owner participation in adventures, training, and exercise.
9. Some dogs with physical discomfort may feel discomfort with some types of handling.
10. Realize it is not all about the human owner, the dog is an individual and living entity that does not live solely for our pleasure.
11. Training is a way of creating a communication venue that will allow trust and understanding to develop between a dog and their owner.
12. Do not go too fast with the dog. The only one who realizes this is a long term arrangement is the human. Most dogs won't be totally comfortable with 100% familiarity. Hugging, kissing, and rough housing are best to do after you know your dog well.
13. Related to #12 having rules, even if you don't keep them in the future, is best to do when first meeting an adult dog. Limited or no access to furniture, no excessive treating, and supervised playing.

Remember rescuing is about appreciating dogs of all types and temperaments, and being able to help them as well as offer them a place to exist.


Maine and New Hampshire Dog Trainer
Mannerly Mutts Blogspot

Local News Stories This Week

To see local stories as they happen in the New England area, feel free to like our Facebook Page.

This week's local news stories as listed below:










Dog rescued from Maine river

NH law under debate after dog shooting

AVMA releases it's local pet ownership and demographic survey

Connecticut Woman to march with assistance dog in Inaugural Day parade

Brookline to allow some missing dog signs to stay up

Boston's bid to restore Breed Sepcific Legislation is not fair or sensible

Boston wants to make their own Breed Specific rules seperate from state



http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Fearful Dogs-How Owners Inadvertently CAN Create

For the purposes of this article, I am talking about fear (not fear [with] aggression, which has both positive and negative definitions in dog training, behaviors OR aggression behaviors). Nor the fear that a resource is going to be taken away, and not dominant behaviors (which in my definition are not necessarily undesirable). A dog's personality or temperament, IMO, can not be described as simply "fearful", "dominant", "abused", or "aggressive". Dogs have rich lives (or should have) just as we do, and are not put into one simple box definition. They may have behaviors that fit that definition (and will have other behaviors and characteristics beyond those), but dogs (themselves) can not be IMO defined this way.

There are many environmental, medical, neurological, and genetic factors that can push a dog towards fearful behaviors. It's important for owners to know that things they may do can make (one would hope inadvertently) a dog more fearful. Here are some possible common contributors:

• (Food, Toys or Play used incorrectly) Food, Toys, or Play may be the answer if done CORRECTLY. Too often people do not understand the training and behavior modification use of food or clicker training. Due to mistiming or thinking that food alone may bring the dog around, owners will often continue to trap their dogs in fearful behaviors by not addressing or understanding the ways to bring more confident behavior out. Instead owners should be rewarding the investigation of the fearful thing in steps rather than rewarding the avoidance of it. In another direction, "play" can sometimes be too rough and not enjoyable to the dog. This can also cause fear of "play" or for the dog to not view what you are doing as a "play" behavior.
• Not allowing your dog the freedom to investigate and discover (safely and supervised). One example of this would be a dog mildly startled by a sound. Before the dog can recover and investigate, the owner scoops them up or hugs them cooing to them that "it's okay". The grabbing away from the object as if it actually is scary, rather than allowing the dog to recover and discover for themselves starts to ingrain fearful responses. Dogs need the ability to do some independent learning on their own.
• Pushing a dog too far before he/she is ready. Dogs are all different and learn at their own pace. You ARE NOT going to make progress with a dog unless they are ready. One way to be sure that you do make progress is to break training or behavior modification into reasonable steps. However, that does not mean to stunt any progress that you could make either. The experience of a results based trainer can help you judge whether to stay a course or another simpler direction is needed.
• No socialization or poor socialization or exposed to unsafe socialization. Socialization is often misunderstood by people. It's not simply dragging the dog out the door a couple of times or walking them by dogs on the street. In my training and socialization plan, I have a minimum of four outdoor areas and two indoor areas that I actively use to train and socialize in. I do not allow out of control people or dogs to come up to my dogs in those areas. I keep my dogs safe and secure with me so they don't unnecessarily meet with a traumatic experience. This is a balancing act as you don't want to be so protective that your dog does not experience life, and yet don't want to be so blase that they experience something negative unnecessarily.
• Allowing or expecting a dog to withstand inappropriate contact. Despite our efforts to make a dog's life as stress free as possible, our dogs can become unduly stressed out if we are not watching out for them. Children, adults, and other dogs can all act either inappropriately with our dogs or in ways our dogs do not like. I am not talking about not socializing your dog here. Every dog can get too much of a good thing, or be expected to experience something that they do not enjoy.
• Not allowing the smaller dogs' paws to ever hit the ground. There are factors that make small dog ownership different than large dog ownership. They are smaller than others, and can be seen as prey drive or easy pickings for bullying. However, you still want a confident little dog that is enjoying life. Be sure to let them be a dog when it's safe and appropriate. Let their feet touch the pavement, the earth, and let them run through the woods and get dirty (again with training and safety in mind). Too many small dog owners scoop their dogs up when there is nothing to be worried about. Treating your dog like a cat, an accessory, or a delicate china object can make your dog fearful and act out neurotically. IMO, a dog that is acting out that much is not enjoying life very much either.
• Incorrect communication linked with opposite action. For instance using an endearing term, while doing something that is scary to the dog. If this term has been used to tell the dog it's okay before, it will begin to mean something else entirely to fearful dogs. It may actually come to be that they should be scared and they will be hurt. Instead I will use a command to indicate that something will be over soon, and their job is to hold still until it is (good for vet visit type of fears or grooming fears).
• The abuse excuse as a reason to trap a dog in a fearful state forever. If an adopter of a dog knows there is an abuse story in the dog's past, they may trap the dog in a fearful state inadvertently. Doing the "poor dog" and "coddling" can teach a dog that to remain in a fearful state is the way to get love and affection. Don't trap your dog there, and let your dog enjoy the unique experiences that come with being a canine.
• Not preparing a dog after or before unexpected sensory interaction. When you know that your dog is likely to over react to stimuli (that other dogs generally would not react to), there are ways that you can prepare your dog to enter into situations without being shocked by them. If for instance, you decide to just foist your dog into a family party situation, you will spend a lot of time struggling with your dogs reactions. Inadvertently, you may make your dog even more fearful, even though nothing really wrong happened. It's best to work a dog with fearful reactions up to big events before pushing them into them.
• Making a dog too dependent of being with you ALL the time. I love spending time with my dogs. I could totally spend 24 hours of each day doing stuff with my dogs. However, I don't want them to become neurotic should I need to go out, and leave them in. Some owners do not allow their dogs alone time, as time to figure out that they are safe when they are alone. This is a perfect set up for separation anxiety to occur.
• Removing a puppy from the litter and mother before they are ready.   I like 11 to 13 weeks before I would remove a puppy.  I believe the recommended minimum is 8 weeks.
• Serious veterinary procedures before a puppy has learned to trust hands.   This is not necessarily an owner caused inadvertent harm.   However, please talk to a trainer or vet about the consequences and be prepared should your very young puppy have a serious medical issue that needs to be addressed.

Many times fearful dogs have become that way due to the mishandling of humans.   It can be very unintentional with the best of intentions on the owners part.   However, mishandling can still be harmful to the future temperament of your dog.

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

What is Motion Memory in Dog Training

Motion memory refers to those things that your body has become habituated to movement and/or action to the point it can override how you are trying to change movement and/or action. As an example, often I click my mouse twice over things on my computer even as I realize I don't need to do that anymore. In fact, it usually makes a whole bunch of useless windows open up that I don't need, and slows downs processes on my computer. My habit of motion is overriding what I already know that I need to do.  Where do these things show up in dog training?


· When a handler wraps the leash around their hands or puts their whole hand through the handle loop. The correct way to hold the leash, which takes awhile and practice to set into the conscience of the handler, is to put your thumb through the loop of the leash, and then wrap your fingers around the whole handle.

· During the training of the heel, when the leash hand floats into the air. I don’t know why this happens, and it never helps the exercise. What this does is put the leash out of place so that pulling your dog around becomes necessary, instead of having a slack leash on your dog all the time. The right hand holding the leash during the heel needs to be straight down so that the leash hangs loosely under the knee and any correction is given a well-timed and natural way.

· The instincts to gather up the line during the longe line exercise, and this is totally counter-productive to the exercise. You need all 15 to 20 feet of the longe line out, as your hand is correctly holding the leash at your mid section.

The instinctively grabbing at or gravitate towards your dog when they do not come. This is very related to the coddling instinct (coddling is usually an inadvertent reinforcement of an fearful or unwanted behavior, in other words the unwanted behavior increases the more it is done), and the dog is not given enough independence to know and learn what they need to do.

There are very amusing things that trainers sometimes do to correct motion memory. There is the belt to strap the handler’s hand down to their side. A water bottle in a hand also helps correct the problem. Most of all what helps is doing the homework, rereading the directions, and working on these to the best of your ability. Sometimes the dog does not need to be used in favor of correcting the motion memory problems before including the dog in the exercises.

What things can you think of in your motion memory?

http://www.mannerlymutts.com/
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com/
http://mainepets.mainetoday.com//blog.html?id=199468

Eight canine commands that will make your life easier

Novice is the first non-optional level of the American Kennel Club's obedience trials. Three different judges must at least qualify a team with a score of 170 or higher in order for the participants to move onto the next levels, if they would like to. You can move onto open and utility trials after that. When people see these dogs in the ring, they think it's all about "pretty walking". It's actually about a lot more than that. Here are some exercises from the Novice trials, and their real life




HEEL ON LEAD: Heel is a moving command and an exact position. The dog turns with the handler , and exhibits that their job is to move with and pay attention to the handler. Uses for this include, but are not limited to walking safely down city streets (teaches your dog to not be concerned with distractions), bringing groceries and dog from car to house, walking through unexpected distractions, taking a dog out of a situation that is about to become volatile, and just the simple non pulling on a lead. The auto sit and turn portion of the exercise ensures that your dog is duplicating the handlers moves for safety reasons. For example, an owner wouldn't want their dog to continue walking off the sidewalk and into a moving vehicle.

HEEL OFF LEAD: Allows you to have outdoor fun with your dog not in heel, and get him instantly into position should something come up. For instance, perhaps a walker comes upon you that clearly does not look comfortable with dogs. Heel off leash also gives you better reliability on leash, as the dog is not generalizing where and when to heel.

STAND: The actually training of a "stand for exam" gets dogs and puppies used to handling by strangers. Great for Vet exams where the veterinarian needs to evaluate the structure of your dog or check for stomach problems. Makes grooming much easier whether done at home or at the groomers. I use it instead of an auto sit for my dog that has knee problems.

FIGURE EIGHT HEEL: This is just another portion of the heeling exercise. In the city you can't always walk straight lines, and this helps a dog know how to walk in curved areas on either side of you. Again, great use for city walking especially or even in the woods with trees when needed.

RECALL OR COME COMMAND: This command is arguably one of the most important. This command can save your dog from great harm or death. This command saved Jazzabelle's life. As a youngster as she streaked towards a friend that she saw across the street. "Come" brought her to the yard, instead of the oncoming truck. This can also be used to retrieve your dog before they ingest something dangerous on the ground during a walk.

SIT: This is useful if you want your dog stationary (staying separate from stay here for a moment) so you can put on their leash, because the dog's head is up higher than a down. Great for when walking in a heel position, and you come to a curb where your dog stops with you.

DOWN: I use this a lot if a strange dog is approaching, then not only is my dog in a stationary position, but also in a very non challenging position. I can then head off the strange dog, if I wish. This is useful when introducing large dogs to smaller dogs. Excellent command for use in the grooming salon or veterinarians office.

STAY: This is usually used after a stationary command (sit or down, for instance). I use this when I don't want my dogs to counter surf, while eating dinner, while talking to a friend and I can't watch the dog at the moment, when bringing the poop bag up to the street (potential customers love this move when there are many dogs and people on the beach as well). The level of skill in which commands are trained and taught to your dog also makes it possible to sit outside at restaurants with your dog. An owner might be privileged to bring dogs into their hotel rooms, rather than have to use a kennel. Well trained dogs can be welcomed at various events such as craft fairs or family picnics. Now if someone starts to go into the higher obedience level skills which require jumping and retrieve, more joys await you. The skill of retrieval can be taught for any household object. This is a way to give your dog a fun job to do, and exercise his brain muscles.

If an owner has a reactive dog or one with behavioral issues, these skills, done to a standard, will increase and improve a dog's attention and focus on their handler. Training is a good way to begin distracting a dog from items that make them fearful as well.

Please be sure to train dogs to reliably understand their owner. It will make not only their lives better, but also start to give back the rights of responsible dog owners.

Maine and New Hampshire Dog Training

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training Blog

E-Mail Mannerly Mutts with Questions

Fashion Sense and Dog Training

There is something so basic in dog training (that is when you train many dogs for a living) that I at least often forget to communicate to my clients. I was reminded of this yesterday during very cute and active Bristol's (German Shepherd female puppy) lesson. The basic thing that I forgot to communicate is how to dress during, and especially, training a green dog or puppy. Actual typically, I dress this way even with more seasoned and trained dogs, because a lot of my training counts on me being able to get dirty and play with the dogs (be outside in areas that may be swampy or muddy) as well, even if they are well on their way and not mouthing or jumping up anymore.

There are many reasons that I will wear clothes, while training, where I don't want to worry about ruining them. Here are just some reasons to dress down your wardrobe, and not wear your favorite (dry clean only or hand wash only) clothes while training dogs. Some of these may be over the top for just a dog owner trainer, nevertheless, I think they are great tips to keep in mind for either the professional trainer or dog owner:)

Top and bottom fashion choices:

• In dog training there are a multiple of things that might get on your clothes or you. In some breeds (Boxers, Great Danes, Newfies, et) there are these things affectionately called "flingers". These are great ropes of viscous drool that can fly anywhere in a moments notice. If you have ever had the pleasure of being in a closed car with Great Danes who shake their heads all of a sudden, you know how this stuff gets everywhere. By the way flingers show up well on knit fabrics especially dark shades of black and brown are generally not a good idea. Just a word to the wise.
• Puppy nails and mouthing puppy teeth tend to pull at certain fabrics (no light delicate fabrics or fabrics that may pull). This is why my main top choices for training dogs are made out of velour, fleece, or sweatshirt materials. Choices on my bottom half tend toward dark wash jeans, which are virtually impossible to stain with muddy feet or rip (that is real jeans not summer jeans). Don't forget how sharp puppy teeth are, even if they aren't trying, a very light weight fabric on your bottom or top half is not to hard to tear.
• Light colors always seem to stain, even if it seems that they won't. Avoid these in dog training, because muddy paws always seem to find a way to imprint on the fabric. Don't wear them on your bottom or top.

Foot Fashion Tips:

• Unless you are trying to hurt yourself, flip flops are NEVER EVER appropriate. For the safety issues, nothing with any kind of a heel or with slippery bottoms are appropriate.
• Poop is something we all strive to pick up, but can be hiding out in some tall grass. Shoes with flat yet tractable bottoms are the easiest to clean. Very intricate waffle bottoms, for instance on running shows, are not so easy to clean.
• You may want a few high quality shoes just for dog training. I NEVER skimp on my shoes that I use for dog training. I also realize these shoes may go through dirt, sand, mud, muck, poo, water puddles, and snow. So my shoes that I go out in public (not to train dogs) are a totally separate category.
• My preference is NO LACES. Well fitting slip ons with great traction is what I prefer to train dogs in.

Winter Fashion Accessories:

• Be sure that any head apparel does not block your vision. So much of dog training depends on being observant of your dog and your environment for timing and proper training.
• Thick gloves will cause you to loose a lot of the feel and the dog that you are working with. Find warm gloves that are as thin as possible when you need them. Mittens are a no no, as they impede your hand movement and dexterity even more.
• Loose skarves (and anything tempting like a pony tail) can look like a fun thing to grab and pull on for a puppy, especially.
• Boots should be warm and easy to walk in. I still haven't found the perfect slip on boot to dog train in (assuming I am going to be walking a lot during the training) that hold my feet in for duration comfortably.

Aggressively Fashion Forward (owners with dogs like this should contact a professional in dog training and behavior modification immediately):

• I will always tell my clients that it is unacceptable to wear sandals, even sports sandals when training a dog. However, I do it sometimes (give me a break it gets sooo hot in the summer, and I have a lot of dogs to train) do except when training a dog who is willing to bite me. I have never been bitten on my foot, yet I always wear thick leather shoes WITH socks to protect me if they go for my ankles.
• Jeans, real heavy duty jeans, are a must. This way you are more likely to get a bruise if a redirection comes your way, rather than a flesh wound.
• Baggy swearshirts and layers underneath. This gives you a little bubble around you to react if they go for your arms or torso.
• I have never yet felt the need to wear gloves to protect my hands from a bite. Mostly, I don't want the dogs that I work with to bite down harder as a result. However, I am sure there are some dogs out there that would inspire me to have a change of mind. So far, I would rather a basket muzzle at first, if I feel the dog is too quick for me.

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

Responsibility for Canine Companions

(This post was written years ago by me, and I am reissuing it now)

Seems timely today to talk about human responsibility to canines vs needs of canines. Also human responsibility to humans.

I love all dogs. I love behaviorally challenged dogs, "bomb proof" dogs, sick dogs, healthy dogs, old dogs, puppies, smart dogs, not so smart dogs, hunting dogs, guarding dogs, small dogs, big dogs, long haired dogs, and short haired dogs. A strength and a weakness that I have is a fondness for all things dog. Many other humans share this trait with me. Many organizations share this trait with me.

Whether it is a owner, rescue, trainer, family member, veterinarian, boarding kennel, or neighbor there is something in addition to the responsibility to our dogs that is our primary responsibility. That responsibility is to ensure the safety of other living things around us as well as our canine companions. If we can not do that, there are some tough choices that need to be made. They are not fun, they are not cool, and most of all they are not easy. Sometimes they are the right thing to do. Sometimes they need to be done because the canine owner has not met the dogs needs responsibility, and is not going to in the future.

A posting on a forum by a family member gave me the inspiration for this article today on the chain of transfer in ownership or stewardship of a canine, and the responsibilities that come within each differing perspective.

BREEDERS: It's a career that I would never be able to consider. Sure, it seems simple and fun enough. Who doesn't like being surrounded by puppies? In fact, I am pretty sure that breeders, who are responsible, love what they do. First of all, they need to research and select the lines that they feel will bring healthy and stable temperament in the dogs into the world for the purpose for which they are breeding. (working, pet, hunting, living with children, ET) They are responsible for those dogs they select and own to meet their needs, not only during times they are producing, but for always. During the time of pregnancy and afterward, they need to be knowledgeable of the things they need to do to keep everyone healthy and happy. When the puppies are ready to go to their new homes, they are responsible for matching those homes up for success to the best of their ability. Responsible breedersusually have a clause that if for any reason that dog does not work out, they are to be returned to the breeder. (or at least report to the breeder for conformation that decisions after that are okay)

Many times not all puppies in a litter are able to or do survive due to no one's fault. It's the breeders responsibility to monitor this, and make some very painful decisions. When puppies are raised by a responsible breeder, a part of that breeder's heart is transferred over with the ownership of that puppy.

RESCUES: A responsible rescue will try to find out if there is a way to keep that dog in it's home. For instance, is it just the stress of a situation OR the owner just at a loss about what to do? After that, if the breeder is known, it's the rescues responsibility to suggest to the owner that they need to contact the breeder initially or the rescue allowed to contact the breeder themselves.

Once all that is sorted out, the next thing most rescues consider is the ability to take in and re home this dog. Depending on funding and paid staff, the success rate of this can vary widely. Rescues do what they can do to deal with difficult situations. Sometimes they may need to euthanize the dog themselves due to severe illness or behavioral issues. Rescues generally have resources available for many issues that require veterinary assistance, but there are times that a dog is beyond any kind of help for pain, and therefore it's a kindness to let them go unto an existence without pain.

Sometimes a rescue may know that they can not find a home for the dog (due to serious behavioral issues) OR they do not feel confident that there won't be an injury given the potential owner pool that they have to deal with. Rescues have these painful decisions to deal with as well. However, they do have a responsibility to the public to keep everyone safe.

That being said, rescues have the responsibility to match up (as well as possible) human and canine team combinations. Sometimes due to lack of funds and paid staff, this ends up simply being a purchase transaction for dogs that have passed temperament tests, so that less of a matching and application process is done.

A dog that goes onto a home to bite family members or others, and the problem can't be solved, does not have good prospects for the future. A responsible rescue will not again pass this dog on, unless they have the solution or better home for the dog in the future. Most are not willing to risk the liability, and I can't blame them. It's not only liability to the outside world, but to their shelter staff as well. Many of the rescue members will be unpaid volunteers.

A rescue organization's first responsibility is to the living things around them as well as dogs needing homes.

ADULT OWNERS: New owners of dogs or puppies are responsible to meet their needs immediately, and this includes training needs. Too many people do not train, this later causes an episode that they are not happy with. Many owners only want to train to treat the symptom AFTER something or someone has been injured. As a trainer, this is the common training scenario I hear over and over again. They didn't need to train before because their dog was as good as gold, but then their dog suddenly and without warning bit the cat that raced across the yard.

Adult owners of dogs are responsible first and foremost for the safety of every living thing around them. If they are in a period of time where this is being worked on but not yet controlled, then safety measures and equipment needs to be used correctly (along with supervision and common sense) to ensure that everyone is safe.

Years ago, I heard of a lab that used to run in the mornings with all the other dogs on the beach. His owner did no training. One day at home, a jogger jogged by who had never been on their street before or near their yard. The dog raced after and bit the jogger (could have been prey or protective drive), and the owners really had no clue that something like this could have been prevented with training and responsibility. Stuff happens sometimes, sure, and it's hard to control every little thing in life. However, the one main thing that was missing was any kind of language between dog and owner which might have said "hey, no, come back here" with a simple "COME!!!". That is a simple and well trained come. Unfortunately, the lab was put to sleep as a dangerous dog (making me think this was not the only incident).

Even more horrifying is that this jogger was bitten. How horrible for him!! These things can be very much improved upon in decreased numbers by owners training their dogs. The dogs do not know, have not been shown, and have no way of being communicated with when the "unknown event" occurs. The jogger also does not deserve to be bitten. Most likely, he will not be thinking kindly of the next dog.


MINOR OWNERS: Children can not be held responsible for adult responsibilities. However, adult owners can teach their children proper ways of interacting with their dog, approved ways of interacting with their dogs, and let them know before hand the inappropriate ways of interacting with dogs. Adult owners are first and foremost responsible for their children's (and any other child's) safety.

FAMILY MEMBERS OUTSIDE IMMEDIATE: The adult owners of canines need to be responsible for the safety of family members. Some family members will listen to directions like "just don't let yourself into my home without knocking" or "don't encourage the dog to jump". If a family member can't or won't comply with that, it's the adult owner's responsibility to not endanger their canine by putting them in that position.

DOG TRAINERS: My profession is first and foremost responsible for safety. I often take on behaviorally challenged dogs, but really try to screen out those owners who will not follow directions OR have too much of a learning curve vs their dog's specific problem (if aggression based, of course). To those owners that I can not help, I do give out as much information as I can. I can't make them be responsible however, or want to do the work. That's the most frustrating thing being a dog trainer.

During the training sessions, it's my responsibility to break everything down and teach it in an understandable manner. The dog trainer will also be looking for any undiscovered issues that may be brimming below the surface, and giving their take on the situation and suggestions for resolution.

After training happens, it's the trainers responsibility to document how it went, and also communicate to the owners how they did, and if there remain any issues at hand. The trainer will frequently have also bonded with the dog, but it's our responsibility to send everyone home with safety in mind first and foremost.

VETERINARIANS: Veterinarians are responsible for medical issues regarding your dog, and doing the best in their ability to recommend steps that will keep your dog healthy and happy. Behaviorally, they are relied on to uncover any physical components of behavioral issues.

If you ever have a veterinarian that will not run tests after your dog has shown a departure from their regular personality, it's time to find a new vet. Sometimes vets are expediting their decision because they know most people won't put the work into their dog after a behavior is on it's way to being a "learned behavior". However, the person really responsible for making THAT decision is the owner of the dog, and the veterinarian should be responsible for discussing things that can affect behavior and the options ONLY. The human owner is the only one who knows what their capability and responsibility level will be.

Just some things to think of in the exchange of responsibility for our canine companions. I wish I could go more into detail that this article deserves today. Instead, I may break this into pieces and go into more depth in the future.

Call Mannerly Mutts Dog Training for your Maine Dog Training and New Hampshire Dog Training needs at 207-809-6300. Or E-mail Robin Rubin, Maine Dog Trainer, at mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com.