Sorry About Lack Of Posts Lately

My laptop, which was a huge help when I got it last year, has gone caplooey lately. Luckily it's under warranty, and it just came back from Toshiba's manufacturing site, believe it or not. Only to realize the problems are still there as they did not bother to really check into it, just replaced some parts as quickly as possible. One would think it would have been cheaper (in the long run)to just send me a new computer. The next step now that we have tested the computer and found the same problems, is that NOW they will send it to an actual repair center.

The bottom line is that I need to quickly use the upstairs computer when available to get work done, and have not been able to do any well thought out posts for my blog with this schedule.

We will be back on track eventually, right now we have to play these games with Toshiba. It's far too expensive a computer to not hold them accountable under the warranty period, though if I had the money it would be a lot easier!!

Who knew that computers and technology are important in the dog training business LOL?  Oh and nevermind that I am having a problem with my camcorder, though I think we have that figured out (and it is simple).   Everything happens at once it seems!

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Molded Sits Days 1 and 2 Using Bailey

PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION.

Equipment Needed:
6' Leather Lead
Training Collar (I prefer metal chain training collar)

Explanation and Goal of Exercise: This method of molding the dog into position, teaches the dog to allow our hands to mold and manipulate various parts of their body. The handler is also teaching themselves how to determine if a dog's muscles are relaxed with trust OR tense with distrust. Additionally, it is possible to detect a physical problem by touch as you mold your dog down. This also ready's your dog to sink into a sit readily when given the correction later on (if the correction is even necessary).

Hand Drills (practice until your moves can move swiftly through the motions without the handler needing to think about it, before practicing with the dog):

· Practice these without the dog for a few minutes prior to starting.

· Your left hand will hold leash, transfer to your right hand (grasp near snap bolt on collar), left hand does long stroke down dog's (first few minutes your invisible dog) back, the left hand cups the bum area, right hand gives pressure up on collar.

· At the end of heeling, be sure to introduce your "release word". Some people use "break", "free" or "okay" to indicate that the work is ended. One note about "okay" it is used frequently in conversation, so if you use it, you are going to need to train that it only comes from you and when you are looking at them.

· Only start with your dog once your muscle memory kicks on on this procedure.

STEPS FOR EXERCISE:


STEP 1: You can start from a kneeling position or from a standing position. If you are used to walking with your dog, set them up so that they are beside you before...



STEP 2: Transfer the leash to your right hand so that your right hand grasps the collar near the snap of the leash.



STEP 3: Your left hand will begin stroking down from the shoulders of the dog. When your hand reaches the butt, cup the but and say "sit" at the same time the dog's rear end hits the ground. (be sure you have space between you and your dog at this point, so no cuddling et so that your dog is ignoring the lesson).



STEP 4: At this point, you can say "good girl" and THEN give her the release command. Be very sure that your dog never breaks during good girl, but only at the command given (I use "break" for instance).




You want to do this exercise for 100 reps a day. These can be broken up into 25 a piece of so if you would like. With a young dog, I usually do this to avoid extreme boredom for the dog:)

Maine and New Hampshire Dog Trainer
Mannerly Mutts Dog Training Blog

SPACE IN PLACE, SENDING AND DISTANCE (PLACE PART 3)

THIS IS INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS AND ROBIN RUBIN.  INDIVIDUALS ARE WELCOMED TO USE THESE INSTRUCTIONS, BUT THESE ARE NOT FOR DISBURSEMENT BY PROFESSIONAL TRAINERS FOR THEIR OWN USE.   NOR SHOULD INDIVIDUALS BE DISBURSING THESE DIRECTIONS WITHOUT THE SOLE PERMISSION OF MANNERLY MUTTS AND ROBIN RUBIN.

So now your dog is walking onto the place item consistently by themselves (you are still close to the edge of the place when they go), and remaining in the boarders while you circle them (also from no more than a few inches away.

It is time to introduce the "send" from a distance (a short distance to start) and place as you walk away a distance (a short distance to start).

STEP 1: You may want to switch to the 15' longe line at this point.   You can take up any slack that you need.   Be sure that you have the training collar on your dog and the leash on your dog.  (if you are proficient at the e-collar, you may not need the leash at this point).  The place item should be in the middle of the area that you are working in.  
STEP 2:  As you walk towards your place item, stop a few feet short of where it is, extend your arm, and say "place".  
STEP 3A:  If your dog does not walk onto the place item themselves, there is a few things that you can do.   (1) If you have good aim and will hit the place item (not off the place item in other words) you can extend your arm and throw a treat onto the place item, as you say place.   If any feet are off, you can use your body or leash to correct it so that all four feet are on the place mat.   (2) You can use your body and leash without the treats to guide your dog onto the place mat.   (3)  If you are using the electronic collar, you can use a low continuous to indicate (with help if needed with your body and/or leash) when they are on the correct place item.
STEP 3B:  If your dog does walk onto the place item themselves, you can say "good boy/girl" and give a pat if it won't make them go off the place board.  
STEP 4:  Now walk away a couple of feet to do your circles.   Keep eyes on the dog so you can provide a well timed correction should they think of walking off the place item.
STEP 5A:  Should the dog attempt to leave the place you can (1) quickly step forward into the dog so they go back onto the place (2) use the leash to move them back onto the place or (3) use the electronic collar to indicate that they walk onto the place.
STEP 5B:  Should the dog stay on the place, please tell them that is a "good place" or "good boy/girl".   Be sure that you haven't inadvertently made either of these a release word.
STEP 6:   At the point that you are ready to release your dog, WALK BACK TO THE PLACE ITEM.   Then you can give them your release word and walk off with them.  

You don't want to increase the distance of the send or the walk away until the dog is dealing with the distance with successful performances four out of five times.

Video example of starting the send:



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Next Steps in the Place Command (Part 2)

So now your dog is walking onto the place without your going over it with them.   Here is the next step, and there are more coming.   Remember that the end goal in this exercise is to have your dog cross an area to the place themselves while you are nowhere near the place.   Here is the second phase of the place command training.

****NOTE:   This is intellectual property of Mannerly Mutts and Robin Rubin.   If you are a professional interested in using these training plans, please contact Mannerly Mutts and a fee arrangement can be made.

STEP 1:  You still have a leash and collar on your dog.   The place (board, mat, dog bed) item is in the middle of the room so you can walk around it, and use all sides to place your dog (so that they do not generalize).
STEP 2:   Now as you approach the place, from a couple of steps away from the boarder of the "place item", extend your arm as you say "place" before the dog walks onto the place (different than before as you were saying place as you walked over with your dog, and only when the four paws were on the mat).
STEP 3:  If your dog does not make it onto the place themselves, use the collar lead and your body language (IE nudge into the direction) to help your dog to the place mat.   Be sure once there, that all four of their paws are on it.   If paws are sticking out beyond the boarder, just place your feet near them.   If they try to walk off and you catch them early, you can normally just move towards them quickly, and they will walk back onto the place area. 

NOTE:   IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE HERE THAT YOUR DOG SHOULD NOT BE TOLD TO SIT OR DOWN.   OTHERWISE YOU WILL RUIN THE UNDERSTANDING THAT A PLACE HAS BOARDERS IN WHICH THE DOG IS RESPONSIBLE FOR KEEPING THEMSELVES.
STEP 4:  Once all four dog feet are on the place board, and your dog remains in whatever position he/she wants to, Have your six foot leash totally loose (this is so your dog can't dart away and have a game of chase), and circle close to the boarders of the place item (mat, board, dog bed).   When a successful circle has been made, you can tell your dog "good place" and give them a scratch under the chin.
STEP 5:  Now it's time to introduce your release word.   At the end, say break and lead your dog off the place board.   You can tell him/her that this was very good.   You should only leave the place board once the performance has been good (IE you made circles around them very closely).

(to be continued....next widening the circle followed by starting the send.)

Video example of starting the send:



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The Very Beginning of The Place Command

One example of a finished place command:




The place command is usually taught around the same weeks that they stay commands are taught.   The difference from a stay command is this becomes a "send to" where you can send the dog to stay.  Once you get going you can use this for a crate command or a on top of command, unless you want separate verbal cues for this.  

Uses for a Place Command:  Sending your dog from company that may not wish to greet them at places like the dinner table and door without your escorting the dog to the desired location.   Behaviorally modify dog's behavior that may have a territorial aggressive bent.   Send away from an area that may hold danger like a broken glass surrounding the owner.   Interrupt an oncoming conflict between dogs by sending one or two away.   Send a fearful dog to a safe area.   Move a dog around a room while completing housework (keeps them safe from chemicals you may be using).

Goal of a Place Command:  To direct a dog to an area without needing to escort them to the area yourself.   To train a dog to recognize what and where a place is, and to both travel to and place them within those boundaries.

Equipment needed:   Need a leash and training collar in addition to the place itself.  Many trainers use a raised platform for a place (usually made with plywood, rug, and pvc piping) so that there is a definite raised boundary area to begin.   Also many trainers usually make a negative place (pvc boundary only) for ease of traveling with it.   However, a dog bed, mat or something with a definite boundary on which your dog can fit all their paws into laying down will do.

THE VERY BEGINNING OF THE PLACE:
STEP 1:   Position your place equipment in the middle of the room.
STEP 2:  Start heeling your dog around the room.
STEP 3:   Walk in a heel with your dog over the place area.   When all four paws are in the place, say "place".
STEP 4:   Repeat step three from every angle of the place mat or bed (remember dogs can totally interpret something as "just from this direction", so help them to learn to generalize the command by doing this).
STEP 5:  After several (25 or so) repeats of this, stop short of the mat, and see if the dog is ready to step on themselves.  

Video example of the beginning steps of teaching a place command:







To Be Continued...


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2011 Goals for Boris

(related to my maintenance blog)

Here are my goals for Boris:

• Slow out of door when guests arrive (human and canine) in addition to the stay that he already does.
• Lessen the barking when a child near, walks away, or something exciting is happening (perhaps a sit stay while being petted)
• Canine Good Citizen
• UKC Novice
• Scent work

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Leon's Goals in 2011 (related to my maintenance blog)

(related to my blog on maintenance)

Here are my goals for Leon:

• To finally get him a CGC, which he has the skill set to do. I might even go for a CD but without him doing auto sits (his knees) and just reading for the 1 minute sit, which isn't a problem as long as we do not overtrain.
• Have him able to do a long down so if I am doing a private or group lesson, I don't need to check to be sure he is staying in it (Leon knows when I start talking to someone directly and involved that my attention has wandered).
• No more allowing the excited barking when he wants to play or have the ball thrown (must be quiet). This is for when children are around here playing ball, they get alarmed when Leon barks even though he is just doing it because he is having fun. Also helpful if I am training Boris, so I can work him on stays as I do the tug game with Boris.
• Keep up the heeling off leash on equipment around the neighborhood and on the beach (which means being sure we do daily repetitions of this, and let's go command both while on the move and in the house).
• Ah, yes, I want to teach him to retrieve just not his balls to hand for play, but a working retrieve to gather up loose leashes or small dogs that are on longe line and playing when ready or if they try to wander off to far. Also to pick up items that I drop for me. (not so much for me but because he loves to do it). Also to fetch directionally and with "no" and "yes" markers.
• Work on the scent work with him, so when winter trials come up (which is when I like to do this sport) he will be ready to go and get some titles.

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The International Association of Canine Professionals

Early on in my dog-training career, I was introduced to the International Association of Canine Professionals as a quality organization for those professionals who work with dogs.  I have always liked this organization, even as it has gone through some growing pains.  I joined in 2003 or 2004.   I became a professional member in 2007 or 2008.   This year I will finally stop procrastinating and turn in my submission for Certified Dog Trainer, which will be reviewed by accomplished members of the International Association of Canine Professionals.

The International Association of Canine Professionals has planned and thought out their membership levels, bylaws, position statements, annual conferences, members needs and wants, online discussion boards with purpose and intelligence.   For instance, one cannot become a voting member simply by paying dues.   A professional in the dog services field must submit evidence of their years of service before attaining such a status in the organization.

Many reasons exist including the above that cause me to maintain my membership:

1. The thoughtfulness that went into creating an organization for canine professionals.
2. Member boards allow for frank conversation from anything dog to the actual policies of the International Association of Canine Professionals.  I have belonged to other professional organizations where these types of discussions were not allowed, and you could be put on suspension for trying to bring such items up.
3. The talents of long time members like Martin Deeley, Vivian Bregman, Margot Woods, Jack and Wendy Volhard, and more.
4. IACP’s dog trainer certification test(s) is/are comprised of case studies and essay questions.   A dog trainer needs to answer questions in their own words for review of approved accomplished members.   The fee for this is quite reasonable at 75.00 for submission.
5. Members are frequently asked their opinions and whether the International Association of Canine Professionals is delivering what their members want.
6. Unlike some other organizations, there is a voting process that members are involved in.
7. Much thought goes into their annual conference each year.  

Additionally, members of this organization are truly passionate about dogs and their professional work with dogs.   This infectious enthusiasm motivates and drives others to better themselves and set goals for improvement of their craft.  

If you are a professional in the dog services or supplies business, this organization will open up much information, networking opportunities, and exposure to different and new information.

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Versatile Blogger Award

Thank you All Things Brittany for our Versatile Blogger Award!  With this comes the horrifying task of listing seven things about myself.

1. My elbows, thumb and fingers are double jointed.
2. I am about to have my 45th birthday!!
3. I recently have gone on a successful weight loss campaign, but only after my scale was actually at 199.  I am now 169.
4. My dog, Leon, is such a good boy, and shows well in public, but in private he can be a huge brat .
5. I wish I had more energy on a daily basis.
6. Halloween is my very favorite holiday.
7. Two of my little toes on one foot are the same size.

I am nominating the following for the Versatile Blogger Award:

Today At Applewoods
The Truth About Shock Collars
Mister Rugby Sevens UD
Maine Hunting Dog Owners

Those who receive the Versatile Blogger Award are:1. Asked to pay it forward, if you will. Thank the person who gave you the award and link back to them in your post.
2. Tell your readers seven (7) things about yourself.
3. Give this award to other bloggers you feel are worthy of the award. (Up to 15)
4. Contact those bloggers and let them in on the exciting news! 
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