So You Want A Dog, Really?

I have loved animals since childhood.   In my adult life, I enjoy my time spent with dogs.  I love doing things with them that they love doing.   My motivation comes from a place that wants to provide my dogs with the most enjoyment possible.   I am the rare person that has not, in fact, met the dog she wouldn't like.   Professional dog trainers told me that when I worked enough dogs, I would find some that I did not like (dogs that is).   This has not happened, though I will admit to liking some dogs less than others.  This usually just has to do with more time spent with a dog/owner team over another.   I like them all, and I appreciate them all.   I like the ones who are bomb proof to the most behaviorally challenged dogs that I have had the pleasure of meeting.

Many people want the dog to fill up a spot of incompleteness in their lives.  People may feel their child needs a companion or responsibility.   Some people think that getting a dog will make them exercise more, as those dusty machines in the corner have not motivated them to do.   For some a dog is a replacement for children they can't have or adult children that have left.   Sometimes people think too much about what they dog will do for them, and do not consider what must be done for the dog OR the spirit in which care should be done.
Some are in love with idea of rescue.   That is fine, just remember there is no rescue unless the story ends with the dog living happily ever after with the family.   There is more not only to rescuing a dog, but to purchasing a dog in general than paying the fee or providing food and shelter.  All of the same questions need to be considered and gone over thoughtfully before seeking a or another dog.

Before getting a dog, please ask yourself the following questions:

1. The very first question, is do YOU really want a dog and why?   The answer should not be all about you, the human, and what you need. 
2. The next question is do you have the time, finances and commitment to have a dog?   Even were you to acquire a dog for free, as a client once said "there is no such thing as a free dog".   Food, bedding, toys, veterinary care, flea and tick medicine, grooming supplies, leashes, collars, training ET are all with a cost.   A potential owner should be sure that they have the means to meet that cost to the best of their ability.   The purchase price of the dog is going to be the least of your financial concerns.
3. Is now the right time to get a dog?  Is there stress going on, pregnancy, divorce, ET that may not make this an ideal time to care for a dog properly?   The best time to bring in another dog is when there are no extraordinary stresses around for both the canine and the human.
4. Is it possible that you have a medical condition or allergies that would make all or some types of dogs not healthy for you to own?
5. Have you owned dogs in your adult life?   How experienced are you in bringing up a dog to date?  If you feel you have limited experience, you can get that experience either before you get a dog or after to some degree.   Volunteering at a shelter or fostering a dog with the support of a shelter is a great way to start learning about dogs and some of their needs.   Professionals of many sorts are there to support you once you have a dog or puppy.   Know what support is available to you.
6. How prepared is your house, yard, and overall living environment for an incoming dog?
7. Will you be upset when the accidents happen due to non supervision or just as a result of life?   By accidents, I am not just talking about housebreaking accidents, but damage to personal possessions and things.
8. What sorts of personality traits will you be looking for in a dog?   Do you want a dog that will follow you all the time be social and enjoy hugs and kisses?   Do you prefer an independent dog?
9. How committed are you to really training your dog?   By training I mean to a real standard to respond to you 90% of the time on the first command, and to be trained to be able to (whether you choose to do this a lot or not) be unleashed and responsive to you.   You should know that there is a high failure rate in those that get a dog, and can not do this.   Not everyone is lucky enough to pick out the most "bomb proof" dog.
10. Are all adult family members up to interacting, training, and taking the necessary care of a dog?
11. Are there additional considerations that should be considered for other family members in the house (young and old or special needs)?
12. How much research are you willing to spend on finding a responsible rescue or breeder to adopt your dog from?
13. Are you willing to let the breeder and rescue give you input OR choose the appropriate dog or puppy for your family?   Many responsible breeders and rescues do this.

These are just some questions that one should consider before adopting a dog.   Even if you have had a dog before, it's important to truthfully assess your skill level, and what you will be willing to put into your next dog.

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Leash Protocols for Young Puppies

The most common mistake that I see people do with their puppy is start the off leash portion of their training too early. Puppies make owners overly confident that they will stay this way, by the natural instinct of a puppy to stay close to their leaders. However, early lessons that they can get away with their puppy speed, will unfortunately carry over as they grow into adulthood and make their natural curiosity and wander lust worse than it needs to be.

It also starts to inhibit any problem behaviors related to prey drive. In puppy hood you can begin to teach the skills not to chase small furry animals, large furry animals, and cars. All of these things have the potential to be deadly to your puppy and future dog.

At the point that dogs are puppies is a great time to start the checking in process that you are going to desire before allowing your dog to go loose. I do this with puppies or adult rescue dogs with almost no training by doing the following:

1. Inside, while not supervised (definition being complete concentration on the puppy or dog), they are either tethered to me OR in their crate. When I am stationary, I provide a dog bed and toys that they can play with. This is not the sit on the dog exercise, which limits the dog to an area just for quiet. Be aware of where their teeth are in relation to the leather lead, as puppies and adult dogs are fully able to chew through a leash with their back molars very quickly. Otherwise I let them hang out and play around me. If they are tethered to you, you are likely to become aware of when they are in distress of needing to pee or poop. You will also be alerted to their movement immediately.
****NOTE: If I have a puppy that I suspect will worrying the leather lead and I doubt my ability to be aware of it, it is acceptable to use a rope for an indoor ONLY lead or old belt for an indoor ONLY lead for this so you can both relax, and you don't' accidentally loose something valuable. Most puppies are not so stubborn in doing this, but I have had a few small terriers that managed to get their way (and one Thai Ridgeback). So while I was teaching them not to do this, I was using less valuable leads for the inside puppy training. Some puppies are more determined than others.
2. Inside while supervised (definition being complete concentration on dog or puppy), I do allow them to play off lead and most likely with me or a family member. If they are content playing with toys alone, I allow them to do that. Do keep an eye on them though, because they can become bored with that toy and wander off to do something bad. I have a bunch of play sessions that I schedule into my day to allow them this sort of freedom. With a puppy these can be limited to 15 to 30 minutes, and is a good bonding time for the puppy and owner. IF there is a possibility that they are going to be naughty while supervised or have an accident, it can be very handy to have them dragging the leash inside. It is sometimes much easier to step on and grab the leash, than to need to pursue a puppy to catch their collar.
3. Outside, I would only allow a puppy to be completely off leash in an enclosed area unless in a rural setting where you are 100% confident that puppy is staying with. Otherwise, they are most likely dragging a long line. This way you can gently and efficiently stop any dashing off by stepping on the line or grabbing it. This starts the process of the puppy at least starting to ask or check in with you first before you release him/her. You do need to watch for the long line tangling around other dogs and themselves. Be sure that you don't do this near high traffic areas, just in case. It's not in most puppies natures to become serious flight risks at this point, so catching a 20 foot leash should be relatively simple.
4. Bathroom times, I will bring them along on a long line as well (sure to flick the line out of the way) unless I have an enclosed area to let them out in. In some cases, if the owner needs to have their dog eliminate on a six foot leash (they live in the city or they want it to happen on a walk in an area that has a leash law), it is prudent to start that training now. If dogs are given room to go to the bathroom, which I normally have no problem with, it becomes difficult later on to teach them to go on a six foot. I don't think that is your situation, but it is something to think about, if this does apply to you for some reason. (for instance when you take him to where you work, you might find that you have this need)

Although it sounds like more work now than one would want, it saves you a lot of aggravation later on. So many owners come here with dogs that have never been on a leash. When you have large areas to let your dogs off at home, it's easy to forget that you may come across an unexpected distraction when out. Also as you discovered, that distraction can live right across the street from you. Now is an excellent time to ensure your dog has more freedom in the future when it counts, and less while they are very young puppies learning the ropes.

It's also what starts this sort of calm and confident personality in your dog (in balance with the crate training providing a bit of independence early on). That demeanor in your future dog helps people have more confidence in your dog and your ability to handle him in public. Your future dog will have lost none of his ability to have fun and rip it up as needed either.

Remember, you can't do off leash what you can't do on leash first. This is really important to remember in order to keep you from unnecessary aggravation later on.

Some Tips About Your New Puppies

There are things that new puppy owners are almost surprised or concerned about. If you haven't owned a puppy for a long while, there are some things you may have blocked from your memory, perhaps with good reason.

Puppies are wonderful, and if you go about raising them the right way, they will seem a little less demonically possessed at times.

• Puppies are great because you are shaping their lives. The flip side of that is that puppies need to be taught EVERYTHING. Some of the below points will referance that.
• All puppies will mouth at some point. This mouthing can be anywhere from mildly annoying to being readily able to imagine your puppy biting off body parts while you are sleeping. This is a normal part of puppyhood, and yes you are going to need a strategy to teach the puppy (so this does not mean in one day) to bite other things rather than you or your human family:)
• To puppies a fair place to eliminate is someplace farther away from you and their sleeping place. They do need consistent and fair housetraining to learn that you want them to eliminate in an area that the human is happy with (this usually means outside in designated areas).
• Owners of puppies should learn about parasite protection for their young ones. I am including mosquitoe and tick strategies here in addition to worms.
• Sometimes a puppy is acquired in a non breeder and non shelter way. Please visit your vet ASAP to take care of vaccination requirements and other health issues.
• Puppies do not know the difference between your shoe, a hairbrush, glasses, wires, crown molding, door jams, antique heirlooms, or an approved dog toy. They need to be supervised or confined all the time.
• Puppies naturally follow you around when they are very young (generally speaking, I am sure there have been instances where this did not quite happen). Please know that training present and future (though techniques and objectives may differ) is necessary to keep that going.
• Puppies, as they grow, will try things to get there way. The strategies that might be emmployed include growling, whining, barking, jumping, and ET. This is normal, but will most likely get worse unless you do proper training.   DO NOT reward this behavior by giving in.
• Puppies tire easily when they are very young. The long walks and active days will most likely come later.
• In order to be used to and confident around different life noises and activities, puppies need to be exposed to these things. I expose puppies to these things in both training and non training ways. Please remember that socialization does not mean letting your puppy do anything they want OR letting anything/anyone have free reign over your puppy.
• Puppies eat more than adult dogs. Please consult with your vet, and also use the pet food directions on whatever puppy brand you are using. There are different foods for small breed, large breed, and giant puppies generally.
• Puppies poop and pee much more than adult dogs. MUCH MORE. This is just a fact, prepare yourself accordingly to let the little guy/girl have the opportunity to do it in the correct place as much as is humanly possible!
• Puppies that I have had are teething around 15-16 weeks. You may not find these teeth, as puppies tend to swallow them. If you smell blood around them and in their mouth at about this time, teething may be occuring.
• With large breed dogs at least, a puppy isn't considered matured until three and is well within puppyhood until two years old.
  

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Crate Training for Confident/Resistant Puppy

Objectives: Using a crate is important for many reasons. House training, boarding, possible veterinarian visits where they are staying hours or overnight, safety in the house (puppies will try and chew wires and all sorts of things left to their own devices), just having a shower without worrying about what puppy is getting into, and separating out from company that may be afraid of dogs, in general. The objective is to create a peaceful place where your puppy or dog knows they are safe and comfortable to rest and relax.

Equipment: Crate, flat collar on dog (so you have some hold on him putting him in or out), toys placed in the crate already, and a lot of patience. You don't want your puppy to see you getting frustrated. This is all a learning experience for them.

STEP 1: With a pretty confident puppy, I will say crate and place him right in. If he resists to much on the collar, I would pick him up and place him in the crate. If he goes willingly with a light collar tug, let him know he is a "good boy" by saying good boy and giving him a bit of a scratch on the chin after he is inside, being sure not to let him make a move to go back out. A treat would be totally acceptable for this as well.

STEP 2: Close the door and walk away out of sight. Do not look back or in any way comfort or talk to the puppy, even if he starts whining right away.

STEP 3: Wait for that moment of silence. Walk back immediately, have him sit (you could lure him with a treat if he does not sit right away, but he was doing well here), and open the door if he is quiet (only). If he starts the whining as you are walking to the crate or starting to open the door, walk away quickly again, and wait until he becomes quiet.

Day 1: First day, I would do much like we did and do a few reps with us returning immediately. I have him sit and be quiet while I open up the door and release him with a word like "break". Since we haven't worked stay as yet, don't require him to sit there for any length of time beyond a couple of seconds.

Day 2: Second day, I am looking for a few minutes of silence and once that happens return and let him out to play. I would spread those reps out about an hour or so apart. These are now totally separate instances and not all in a row. What this means is he needs to do 3-5 minutes of silence all at once before I return. He needs to sit (you can lure at this point), and be quiet as I open the door. So any break without the release word given first means that I reset the clock again.

Day 3: If he is handling the few minutes well, I am now bumping this up to 10 minutes of silence in a row before returning. (Don't forget sitting and quiet when the door opens)

Day 4: Assuming he is handling the above well at the end, now I might bump this up to 15 minutes. (don't forget, sitting and quiet when the door opens)

Day 5: I may bump this up to 20 minutes. (don't forget, sitting and quiet when the door opens)

At some point you will notice that puppy starts to relax in the crate and get preoccupied with toys or sleep. As long as he has his exercise and play times met, he should be like most puppies and realize it's no big thing. It is not a bad idea to have the crate in a separate room as you do, so he doesn't get distracted by seeing the family members that he wants to play and be with instead. If he starts to be nice and quiet on his own with no fuss, let him start to be until you are ready to work with or let him out again.

Some puppies, as mine did, get very cued in by the sound of feet. Occasionally there can be another step needed to proof the puppy not to cry if footsteps don't come his way. Being that you have a family of children and adults there, he will probably not have a time that he does not hear footsteps of some sort, and that will be helpful to you. So automatically, he will need to learn to ignore that distraction. This problem can happen if there is only one handler alone with the puppy at a time training for this. If it is necessary for the dog to be trained while other family members are not there, once the dog learns to be quiet for a few minutes and that you will return, you can start make audible footsteps around an area while not going to him and expect him to ignore that for a period of time followed by silence before the handler returns to him.

The beginning part relies on the fact that he knows that noisy puppy equals the puppy not getting what he wants, only his being quiet ensures that. So we return immediately in the beginning to set the puppy up for that realization. Then we need to be sure that footsteps don't mean that the puppy is entitled to release just because he hears his family member.

NOTE: Puppies learn at their own pace. If he takes longer to become comfortable at shorter intervals of time, that's okay and don't push him beyond until he is pretty comfortable with A period of time before bumping him up. Sometimes being smart means your puppy will try every alternative to break you of leaving him in there. If he has a special toy, you might want to have that available to him ONLY in the crate, at this point. A puppy finds it comforting to have something to settle down with, and keep him occupied until he gets sleepy.
Remember, if you think it's that he needs to go to the bathroom (like in the morning), you may release him to go. When you get to doing the longer times, I would work them around his house training schedule so that he goes out first and that does not become an issue. This works well into house training, as it's my practice that no play or exercise is associated with going out to the bathroom. If you have a working schedule, or appointments to go on, you want your dog to eliminate as quickly as is possible (giving room for the fact that it may not be instantaneously). Usually a good five minute time frame is sufficient, as long as you aren't mixing this in with play or exercise. If you do, they learn pretty quickly that they can keep you out with them longer, by delaying the point at which they go to the bathroom, perhaps until they go inside.

So what I do with puppies is they have a period of time where I wait until they are all done, if there is any question, I pop them back in the crate for 20 minutes and then check out whether they need to go again as part of my house training in the beginning. Once that is all over with, they come back inside (most likely eat) and separately we will do our exercise or fun activity.

During this crated time in between, you can train your dog on this as well. If they really really needed to go, they would have gone in the allotted time. So you can feel somewhat confident that they will not go in their crate during the training times as you go along. If they had completed number one and two, you can be quite sure that is not the problem.

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Housebreaking Tips

I get a fair number of calls a year for house training advice. I give out a lot of tips for free, due to the fact that while many want the trainer to take on the time and patience to house train their dog, few really want to pay the trainer for their time to do this. Many think that they should not need to pay for such "easy" work. It is i n fact easy work, but time consuming and requires organization, diligence, consistency, and patience. This takes an enormous amount of time out of a trainer's schedule that could be used for something else. I charge 700.00 per week for this with no apologies or deals. I am putting my house and household's well being on the line. Two hours and boarding are a fraction of the time that I will give to the project. Frequently it means I am giving up quite an amount of sleeping time to be sure the dog goes out when they feel they need to go, and making up a schedule and plan for the owners. This does not come cheap, nor is it my favorite type of work by any means. However, if someone is willing to pay for my work for it and needs some serious help, I am more than happy to oblige them.

Here are a list of tips that I give to owners that are seeking to housebreak their dog:

• Puppies NEED to go out more often than adults. Some can sleep through the night, and others can't. Some will need to go out about every two hours at first.
• When first bringing home a puppy, crate training and tethering when your attention can not be on them are great solutions. Let puppy or dog inside for loose play only after they have done number one and two as expected when first entering your home (and in their outside area obviously).
• Write down the times of any "accidents" and add those times to your schedule of when you let your dog or puppy out, until a reliable pattern develops.
• After an accident, immediately bring your puppy or dog outside.
• Keep separate bathroom times when your puppy or dog goes out vs play times. If the dog or puppy does not pee or poop within a reasonable time frame, return them to their crate for about 20 minutes, and bring them out again. Repeat until they have done their business outside.
• The reason for keeping play and bathroom time separate is that dogs will naturally want to play and extend the time. If you make it clear there is a certain time for bathroom and it needs to be done soon, then you will be able to get your dog in and out and then go about your day.
• Be aware that feeding times help you determine about when your dog will need to go. Most dogs need to go out before they eat. Some find that the eating moves things along after too. Notate the times in your journal that your dog pees or poops after they eat.
• Dogs and puppies need frequent access to water, but at night you can pick times (like 7 PM or so) that you put the water away that when your dog out later (at 9 pm for example) they won't feel the need to go out again (in general, every dog's system is different).
• Especially for puppies, after training, exercise and play puppies normally need to go to the bathroom. I usually break puppies in class after a half hour for a potty break. Dogs may need this too, it depends on the dogs system. After a play or training session, it's always a good thing to check if your dog or puppy needs to go out.
• Train your dog or puppy to alert when they need to go by use of a bell or something else to make noise. Also be aware of what your dog or puppy's signals may already be.
• BE SURE THAT YOU LET YOUR DOG OUT DURING SCHEDULED TIMES DURING THE DAY, ONCE YOU KNOW THEIR SCHEDULE. ALSO SHOULD YOU HEAR THE ALERT, LET THEM OUT!!!!
• I do not recommend pad training a dog, unless you are a city dweller and really need this.
• If you work and can not get home during the day, have a pet sitter let your dog out.

Looking for results-orientated dog training? Call Mannerly Mutts at 207-361-4395. Or call Maine Dog Trainer, Robin Rubin, for your Maine Dog Training needs.

Socialization Strategies for Puppies

Puppies are in need of much learning and guidance. One of the most important things to do is to socialize your puppy well in the critical early weeks and months.

The first thing that you want to check is that your vaccinations are up to date, and that it is safe to take puppy out to areas with other dogs and puppies. Take a moment to have a discussion with your vet about the best plan.

Realize that this is not just about letting puppy loose with people and dogs. There is more to socialization than that. You want to monitor within reason how they react to other people and dogs, and also to control the interactions with people and dogs so that your puppy feels safe with you. Ideally practicing training exercises is also a great way to socialize. For instance, practicing a sit before greeting a human friend or a canine friend.

In reference to 2, do some research to find out what puppy play looks like. Talk to professionals about appropriate corrections and signals that dogs and puppies give each other. You want to find out when it's a good idea to step in, and when it's a good idea to let your puppy learn from other canines.

Have your puppy on a leash and collar for safety, especially if you are outdoors and anywhere near traffic. If you are anywhere near traffic, be sure to have the handle of the leash well gripped in your hand. While socializing, an alternative to having your puppy off leash is simply having them drag the leash. That way you can easily intervene when necessary.

Find as many outdoor and indoor places as you can to expose your puppy to new noises and sounds. Remember, the puppy most likely will not feel comfortable with them at first. It is the owner's job to guide the puppy confidently into and out of the experience so that the puppy feels more comfortable the next time. Do not coddle the puppy. It's OK to pet and reassure the puppy, but you don't want to block their learning and taking in of the experience either.

Live in or near York Beach Maine? Here are some ideas that other puppy or dog owners can add to their socializing strategy.

• There are some very pet friendly banks in York Maine. Kennebunk Savings Bank has not balked at customers bringing their dogs in. Be sure that they are ready to remain calm, not pee, and be enjoyable in the bank. Responsible pet ownership allows for these socializing opportunities to remain open to the dog owning public.
• Long Sands Beach in York Maine is an excellent place to socialize your puppy. This is a place dogs (under control and ideally on leash if not fully trained) can get used to the sights and smells of other dogs, children, people, seagulls, water, wind, ET AL. Beaches provide a lot of distraction and learning opportunities for dogs. Above is Bristol, who is still a puppy at just a little over 1 year old. It is very hard for her to keep position among all the excitement around her on the beach.
• Restaurants, coffee places, or ice cream stands that allow dogs to be outside as owners and customers eat are fabulous places to socialize your puppy.
• Many pet supply places these days allow for pets to come in. Groomers, veterinarians, and other canine professionals normally welcome your pets as well, and may provide a cookie to make less pleasant visits less stressful in the future. Below is Boris at York Maine's local pet supply, Ann-imals.
• Finally, don't forget to socialize your puppy inside the home!! Puppies need to know that people you know, who may be strangers to the puppy, are allowed in and welcome when the owner says so. If you have a dog with a territorial or protective aspect to their behavior, this is a very important thing to do. If you are in doubt about whether you are doing any of this correctly, please call in a professional trainer to help!

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Ziggy training clips

"Sit", "Heeling", and "Let's Go" on lead and carpet area:




Molded downs on table:




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Dog Walk in January 2013

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Ziggy Wiggy in Petco

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Ziggy's Progress With the Barking

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Videos of the Week

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Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

Boris wishes you a merry and safe holiday season!

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Mannerly Mutts Philosophy on Dog Training

The two Dobermans are Jackie and Leon, who have
unfortunately passed away.   The training they
recieved allowed them to enjoy their life in this way.

My philosophy on dog training is based on the idea of providing dogs the best and most full lives available in their domesticated situation with humans.   Training is a means to create a communication between two species, which do not share a common language.    Communication in the form of commands, body language, and demeanor are needed to develop through teaching and learning between the canine and canine owner.  It is more effective and efficient to be able to guide the dog what to do in situations, rather than have them guess what you would like them not to do, in my personal opinion. 

In order for dogs to have the most freedom and exercise, commands must be able to be performed reliably in distracting real life situations in which they are likely to accompany their owners.  Therefore it is important to use and design methods that teach the dog and owner in increasingly difficult distraction and situations.  For my dogs and my clients dogs; freedom, activity, fun, and mental work make their lives so much more enjoyable.  Sure dogs enjoy food, and I do sometimes use food rewards, but nothing trumps an adventure.   Being able to bring a dog to as many places as it is possible enriches not only the dog's life but the dog owner's life as well.   It forms a relationship that is a partnership and deep friendship.  As a reward for all involved, nothing trumps that.

These ideas have been developed through my interactions and observations of the International Association of Canine Professional members (professional association), Margot Woods (seminar presenter and training advocate), Martin Deeley (seminar presenter and previous executive director of the IACP), William Koehler (author and trainer who died many years ago. the proper use of the KMODT method using small steps practiced consistently to teach a dog gently and effectively—note you can ignore the last chapter of the book for way outdated methods) and Michael Ellis who stresses training under drive and motivation.  

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How did I get into the dog training business?

Boris, Me, Tommy, and Leon (10/8/2004-9/20/2012) on Long
Sands in York Maine.

I'm often asked how I got into dog training and doing this for a living.  Here are some things that you may not know.

I've always loved animals, and thought I had to be a veterinarian to work with them. No one ever talked to me about animal or dog training as an actual career. My career ended up in finance for about 15 successful years. The last three years I truly hated what I was doing for a living and feeling unfulfilled.




My first attempt at having a dog and my third dog indirectly led me to this career after many years. The first dog I failed as an inexperienced owner with a Rottweiler puppy of 6 months displaying aggressive tendencies towards humans. When I realized we had been working with the wrong trainer, I managed to get him back into the rescue, which had placed him with us. My third dog, Neptune, displayed aggressive tendencies towards dogs. He came from Doberman Rescue Unlimited, who helped us in choosing a way to deal with it successfully. Many years later, I apprenticed at Doberman Rescue Unlimited in the training program for behaviourally challenged Dobermans, while I was at a fork in the road regarding what I wanted to do for a living. I also keep my education current by attending seminars, purchasing DVDs from trainers I am interested in to study from, and reading dog related books that interest me. I've also put three companion dog titles on three dogs, and completed to CGCs on my own dogs. One companion dog was my own, and two companion dogs were my clients. I did the companion dog titling for free in order to further my education in this.



In 2003, I began training dogs by offering free services or really cheap services to anyone who would have me. In 2005, I moved my home and business from Worcester Mass to York Maine (from .10 acres to 4 acres). We changed from an on the road travelling business to being able to use our home and land. Our dog training business has flourished here. We grow an average of 10% a year. Customers who had trained with us in the past refer about half of our business, and half of our new business is from people who find us on Internet searches.



We do specialize in dogs with behavioural problems, and problems with multiple dogs living in the same home. Our business comes from private lessons and residency programs. Out of our previous training clients, a boarding and day-care business has also been developed. This provides lots of real life distractions for training clients when on our property in a safe and predictable way for set ups.  We also do a lot of training on beaches, in the city, and on the back roads here.   Mannerly Mutts is unusual in this approach to training our humans to train their dogs:)

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Daycare and Boarding Videos

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Monty's October Stay

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Leon 10/18/2004-9/20/2012 Adventures Growing Up

Leon was my very first puppy period, and he was purchased from a breeder.  He was the first dog that I would be there from his first weeks of life until his later years.   Leon and I had so many adventures together.   All our Dobermans have been unique.  One of Leon's unique qualities was that he was a "bomb proof" dog.   He was large, gentle, kind, not so brave, fun, adventuress, able to find dead things, loving, loyal, (and so on).   Leon was an extremely easy puppy and dog.  He pretty much loved everybody and everything, while still being very loyal to us and his family.



This picture was taken by Kat Rock at a tracking seminar in Vermont.   Leon was still less than a year old in this picture and one of many working seminars that we attended as a team.  Leon loved tracking.  I don't have any pictures of it, but he also took a road trip with me to Missouri for a week long seminar.




When I lived in Worcester Mass, I could not have a daycare at our house, as we had .10 acres of land.   But Leon, Jazz, and I had a kind of traveling daycare group for our clients' dogs.  Here we are in Sterling Mass (I think).




Leon had a lot of dog friends due to my business.   He was especially good at working with behaviorally challenged dogs.   Here he is training with his good friend, Cerbie.




Leon was easy to take on walks to our walking clients' houses.   It was easy to take him and other dogs on group adventures like this.   Crosby, Tommy, Bogey and Leon are pictured here on Crosby's front lawn.




Another behaviorally challenged dog, 250 # Almonzo, who had not been socialized to strange dogs.   Leon was a positive and calming influence for such dogs.




Leon would do anything for me.   Here is a picture of Leon and Boris in their "Easter Bonnets".   Leon actually had to keep his head straight to keep the hat on.




The last three years of Leon's life he spent with his best buddy and brother, Boris.




Leon has unfortunately joined his bother Jackie CD (left) and Jazzabelle (right).




Leon was easy to take on family adventures.   Here are Boris and Leon on Fisherman's Wharf.




Another picture of our old and much loved crew.  Leon CGC (passed 9/20/2012), Jazzabelle (passed 12/31/2008) and Jackie (passed 12/25/2009).  Jazz passed at just shy of 16, Leon passed at just shy of 8, and Jackie passed at 6.   Both my red boys passed before their time and way before we were ready.




Jackie CD, Leon CGC, and Robert.  Or as I called them "the boys".

Leon was such a very special friend, family member, and ambassador for his breed/species.   He should have been born in a healthier body, as he had a true working spirit.  Often he worked through any discomfort in his knees for fun and adventure.  While friendly and loving, Leon was also super smart.   I am going to forever miss my big gentle sweet boy.

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Leon 10/18/2004-9/20/2012 Baby Pictures

I don't yet have the words to describe Leon and all that he meant to me as yet.   Therefore, I am going to share some of my favorite pictures of our adventures.   These are Leon's baby pics.  He was our very first puppy.   He made his trip to us from Georgia's Pamelot to Logan Airport in Boston.  His first night with us, h actually got us out of a speeding ticket when the officer saw the cute puppy in the back.



I started on Leon's retrieving skills by having him fetch my sneakers.




These were Leon's first baby toys.




This is Leon and his sister, Jazz (11 years at this point) sharing the dog bed.  



First winter walk with Leon.   Jazz is in attendance.   He was adopted at 11 weeks in the middle of winter.



I think this was Leon at six months or a little over.   We were thinking this would be the last time we could hold him comfortably LOL.





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Stella making new friends in her home

Two additional large dogs have joined Stella's household.   Stella came to us for training due to unusual dog aggression
in such a young puppy.   However, her living enviroment before coming to her new home had a Mastiff attacking her.
So taking that into consideration, it has not been a big surprise for me that she was being aggressive.
Here is is (alseep closest one to the camera) learning how to share space with her two new companions.   One of whom she is touching with her foot as she is sleeping LOL.

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Stormy and Leon's Favorite Game

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Videos Taken in August

Stella and Dudley:
Zeus Dudley and Harley:

Stella Italian Greyhound Table Work:


My Dogs, Daycare, and Boarding Orderly Door Entry:
Stella doing a demand bark:
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Market Square Jewelers in Portsmouth NH

Market Square Jewelers in Portsmouth NH is a favorite stop.   First of all, it's in a very dog friendly business section of town.   Second of all, they have estate jewelry that is very cool and at every price level desired.   Thirdly, (and perhaps Firstly LOL) there is a Jack Russel there by the name of Hoagie (may be a mispelling of his name).

He is a minor celebrity by having done appearances on TV, being a model for dog wear, and even being a service dog (as well as a therapy dog).   We see this little guy a lot when we go into town.   I finally got some alone time with him .  He is even sweeter than he looks.   His owner said he is about 12 now.

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The Boys Gus and Tommy and Ollie

Gus, Ollie and Tommy.  This crew gets along well:)

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Tommy's Favorite Place

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Boris and Jake

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Bogey and Spencer

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Dog Differences in Social Settings

Our 11 year old foster Doberman,
Stormy, catching a frisbee, as Boris and
Ollie and Bella look on.

The owners that I see every year, and continue a relationship are very responsible about their dogs.   Usually, many of these dogs are entertained and exercised by the owners and not a daycare.   So owners get very curious about how their dogs are doing in a social setting like daycare or boarding (we don't have kennels, they are largely free in our house and yard under supervision).   Some of these very responsible and loving owners are concerned that their dog may not be "measuring up" to either our expectations or what other dogs do socially.

I want to tell my customers, not to worry no dog is the same as another nor do we expect them to be.  It is actually the many differences in dogs that makes them interesting.   Some dogs take immediately to playing with the other dogs.  Other dogs need to scope out the scene for a couple of days.   Assuming they have some training behind them (or I am allowed to get them on the right path) their differences in temperaments and socialization are no big deal here.  

Personally, I am just as fond of the shy ones, as I am of the gregarious ones.  I also enjoy the behaviorally challenged ones and the "bomb proof" ones.   To me, dogs are individuals and I love their differences.  Their unique personalities make my business and job so much more interesting and rich.   These differences have also given me much insight into pack management.   In this way, all the dogs can enjoy their stay here.

It really touches me when owners express their concern and curiosity.   This tells me how much they care about their dogs' well being and happiness.   These are the kind of customers we want.   I also feel bad for the unnecessary guilt some owners have because they may think their dog is expected to be the most social, most athletic, or best trained dog here.   Some of these owners, especially if they may have a socially awkward dog, express guilt for not giving them the best life, when in fact they ARE giving them the best life.   Why is it that the most responsible and loving dog owner customers are the only ones with any (completely unnecessary) guilt?  

Some even feel bad that their dog is a puppy and therefore does puppy things LOL!   In fact, I love the opportunity to get a newly minted puppy here!   That is a lot of fun as well.

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Dudley and Trooper

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