Unfriendly Canine Legislation Trends

Above is Tommy (admiring blond Bella), who needed to get out of Switzerland due to the current climate in canine law design and breed specific legislation. Ah, for the days of blissful ignorance as a child running through the fields and woods with my Labrador/Beagle mix, Major.  Life was a simple pleasure then not weighed down with worries about the declining rights of dog owners.  Legislation is not discriminating these days regarding the rights of responsible dog owners vs. the rights of irresponsible dog owners.   They are the same with the laws banning breeds, muzzling breeds, limits on number of dogs owned, eliminating parks for leashed dogs, and making off leash access almost non existent. In 2003 professional dog enthusiast Internet boards were talking about the legislation trend sweeping many nations, including our own states.  Many thought the alarmists were Henny Penny types.   Many dog enthusiasts could not believe the sky was actually falling or to continue would continue it's fall.   Instead it was believed that these isolated trends would soon go away.   Unfortunately, the fallout from this has not stabilized into more reasoned actions or stopped altogether the way many hoped it would. Some examples of this: ·       September 2010 Worcester Massachusetts City Council members approve legislation requiring the so-called "pit bull" breed to be muzzled outside of their homes and/or property.  The specifics are to general to list, and the actual new ordinance is not out there in public yet.   April 1st of 2011 is when this new rule will take affect. ·       Worcester Massachusetts does not allow dogs in parks leashed or not.  (Paragraph 14 and unless a service dog) ·       The infamous HEART legislation of Albuquerque New Mexico.  Your dog must be on an eight-foot leash in this city any time you are not in your house OR in your own fenced in yard.   Yard doesn't have a fence?  Dog gets to enjoy time on 8' leash in your own yard.   Not a long line or flexi, but at the most 8'of fun. ·       Pawtucket Rhode Island has banned the so-called "pit bull" breed. ·       Ontario Canada not only bans breeds, but it is totally okay for the dog warden on his authority alone to confiscate and kill dogs. ·       No dogs on many if not all New Hampshire State parks leashed or not. Here is the bottom line, the hysteria and continued deluge of animal legislation and banning of breeds is not slowing down nor will it in the near future.   That is, unless dog owners, citizens, victims of irresponsible dog owners, and legislators really start to get a clue.   The individuals following the example of Henny Penny were NOT wrong.  Sky still continues to rain down on the rights of responsible dog owners.  The warnings went largely unheeded and still are not paid attention to by the dog owning contingent, unless it crops up in their community or affects their breed.   The trick would be to be proactive and block this kind of legislation and make the legislation seem very silly to introduce in the first place.  A proactive approach has been started but needs to be encouraged in the dog community to expand beyond the professionals in the dog field.   Here are some contributors to the current climate in dog law legislation: ·       Dog owners who do not really want dogs, and do not care for their dogs and the surrounding environment properly. o      Do not pick up their dog's waste. o      Allow their dog to roam the neighborhood freely. o      Do not properly train or socialize their dog. o      Neglect their dog. o      Excuse or deny issues that they are having with their dogs until something happens.  Sometimes not even then. o      Allow their dog to indiscriminately run up to humans or dogs that may not want their attentions. o      Allows their dog to create noise pollution in the neighborhood. o      Do not spend time with and/or exercise their dog on a regular basis. o      Does not allow their dogs to be mentally challenged. ·       A climate of "science" (not so much, and not what general public would assume it to be) in dog training, veterinarian practice, and animal behavior professionals that no longer recognizes dogs as individual in temperament, size, strength, age, and prior experience.  The art of dog training to a reliable standard where a shared communication develops the relationship of trust and partnership is slowly and surely being lost, when it is needed the most. ·       Irresponsible dog ownership that threatens the safety and well being of the public as well as family members. ·       The diminishing of areas where dogs can go to socialize makes it guaranteed that fewer dogs would be socialized.   Keep in mind what correct socialization really is. ·       Dog owners, who own large "power breeds", who do not recognize their duty and responsibility to be the best ambassador possible for their pure or mixed breed. Here are some actions that may help protect our rights if implemented in a careful and knowledgeable way: ·       Dangerous dog legislation needs to put management steps for the handling or disposal of the dog and keeping them safe within the environment.   However irresponsible dog owners or custodians need to be fined, penalized, or jailed as well.  So many irresponsible people could either care less that their dog may be put to death or may be a danger unchecked to others alive, untrained, and unsupervised.   Real consequences to the owner would, hopefully, in the place and reduce the likelihood of an irresponsible owner choosing to get a canine in the first place. ·       An irresponsible dog owner liable under legislative fines, penalties, or jail time needs to be defined thoroughly but carefully. ·       Off leash access should be given to responsible dog owners who can demonstrate their training work with their dog to a certain standard.   Also, the dog and owner should be able to pass temperament tests before off leash access is given.   Perhaps also a written exam to test whether owners know when off leash would be acceptable in a common sense way and not acceptable by use of common sense.  In this way, dog owners who are want to or are responsible can regain their right and privilege back. ·       Related to above, insist on standards being able to be demonstrated and proven in the dog training industry.   If certification and licensing is later needed, insist that the traditional obedience (off lead) tests that have been available through the AKC for very many years are the measure to which a professional dog trainer is held.   Dog trainers should be held to a higher standard than a simple Canine Good Citizen, Rally, or Therapy Dog Certificate.   ·       As a dog owner, always take the responsible and right action.   Keep in mind of the surrounding people, and give them no real reason to fear your dog.  The less ammunition out there the better. Prepare and train your dog to be calm and sure of themselves in all public areas. There are probably more points I could make on the causes and possible solutions of the not-dog-friendly legislation that is sweeping the world like wildfire.   Hopefully, this is enough for dog owners present and future to consider. MAINE AND NEW HAMPSHIRE DOG TRAINER MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING BLOG E-MAIL MANNERLY MUTTS

Choosing Your Veterinarian

The choice of a qualified veterinarian in every stage of your pets life is an important one.   Do not choose by cheap fees or for someone that is good mostly for vaccinations ET.   In the end, this will cost you in one way or another.   You want a vet who can recognize the signs of a problem early on, who is not afraid to refer you to a specialist and knows who those specialists in the area are, that you feel comfortable in their handling of your pet, and answers your questions in a way that makes sense and gives you all the pertinent information to make an informed choice.


If your dog is a working or sports dog, finding a veterinarian that is knowledgeable about your issues and challenges will be difficult.   In my area, I have only found vets that are familiar with typical pet dogs, unless they are specialists in the areas of ACL injuries.   Specialists, especially if they are surgeons, are very useful if you are going that route, but if you want to know all the options available to you, a generalist in the area of working and sports dogs is helpful.   I don't know if such a veterinarian exists these days.


Things to think about when dealing with or looking for a new vet:

1. Ask people you know or meet about who they use and if they like them.   
2. When you ask a question, do they thoughtfully answer and try to give you all the pertinent information?   Or do they just fluff you off with vague answers?
3. Do you find the vet keeps running the same tests, without giving you any answers that make sense in regard to the problem?
4. Are you given the opportunity to assist in handling your pet when they are going through a procedure?
5. Do you feel comfortable with the overall demeanor of the vet, and the information that they give you?
6. Do they willingly give out referrals outside of their office for problems that are specialized?
7. Do you ever get the sense that you are being taken advantage of monetarily?
8. Does the vet seem offended or does not forward medical records when you seek out a second opinion?
9. Is the vet cooperative with other vets or specialists that you may use (IE follows up, conferences with them)?

The following link has numbers that you can call to see if complaints have been filed or check on a veterinarian's association status. 


http://www.woodhavenlabs.com/veterinarian.html

Maine and New Hampshire Dog Trainer
Mannerly Mutts Blog

Arguments against e-collars

There are organizations out there that seek to ban various forms of dog training equipment. These organizations are Truly Dog Friendly (TDF), No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC-also a website under baddogsinc), and the International Association of Positive Dog Trainers (IAPDT). Just to name a few, I am sure. These people want to limit dog training to clickers, treats, and haltis. The real art of dog training is being lost in the translation. Here are some of their arguments against both e-collars and traditional training collars (prongs and chokes et).

Argument 1) There must be pain in order for it to work.
a) Not true, in a training situation. It works because you train them or teach them what the response is. It’s a collar that you can signal to them without a leash. Treats, for instance, don’t “work” because there is pain associated with them.
b) A loud voice doest “work” because there is pain associated with them.
c) This is a tool that is correctly used in an overall training plan to develop a partnership of respect and trust.
Argument 2) Opposition wants to try it on then on high not the low levels they.
a) Well, it hurts on high levels. We all know this already; nothing is being proved by this. Except that it starts of the circular argument that these groups use when sensible points are made in regard to training. When they acknowledge that low levels do not work, then they will insist on the high levels.
b) There are higher levels due to distraction level and adrenaline level increases during highly excited moments (i.e. a dog fight). To test this properly and in the right context, you should be in a fistfight at a bar brawl LOL. Something that is more than likely if you get enough dog trainers in the same bar, but still…
c) Why do members of Truly Dog Friendly, No Shock Collar Coalition, or International Association of Positive Trainers members not want to try it at low levels? Because most are honest enough to admit that it does not hurt on proper working levels, and that answer does not serve their purpose.
Argument 3) They are inhumane and cruel.
a) The human in charge would need to have the intent to be inhumane and cruel to do so.
b) Any piece of equipment can become inhumane and cruel in abusive hands.
c) Good training with appropriate tools is something that opens up the whole world for your dog. This is positive and dog-friendly.
Argument 4) They cause aggression.
a) Any equipment used either incorrectly or is not right for that particular dog can cause aggression.
b) Treat training has caused aggression in some dogs that just can’t handle the responsibility of it.
c) Lack of training can cause aggression.
Argument 5) They are too complicated for the general public.
a) Someone inexperienced with the modern uses of this equipment should have an experienced trainer show them how to use it in the context of obedience training.
b) Properly introduced, this equipment is far easier to get correct timing down without the distractions of a long line, or needing to properly work the collar attached to the long line.
Argument 6) They burn the neck.
a) Most collars operate on two AA batteries. Think about that, while I look up an article on the possibility of that happening LOL.
b) All dogs coats and skin would burn and/or catch on fire if this was a possibility. You would also smell the hair actually burning (think about your hair curler or iron). It does not happen.
c) Due to the metal rubbing up against the skin if it’s on loosely, can cause skin sores to develop. The collar needs to be on tightly in order to work correctly and not rub up against the skin.
d) Tri-tronic’s collars metal prongs have been known to trigger an allergic skin reaction in some dogs. It becomes an itchy and bumpy rash, not a burn.
e) Since these collars go into the water, a wet dog’s coat compresses making the collar looser until it’s dried. Loose and damp, not a good combination to be against the skin.
Argument 7) They are used as punishment.
a) They are used as a way to communicate timely with a dog sans a leash on low levels, and so the dog knows they should be paying attention. This is not punishment any more than a tap on your shoulder would be a punishment.
b) They are used as a great way to get your dog off leash and enjoying the great outdoors. This is considered a huge reward to a dog.
8) They are only used for stopping problem behaviors in an aversive way.
a) They are used to train a language of communication and partnership between a dog and their owner.
b) They can be used this way, but many trainers personally recommend that obedience training under a proper training plan is the way to go, except in extreme life threatening circumstances.
Argument 9) They are used as positive PUNISHMENT only (see definitions of punishment in this article.).
Argument 10) Your dog can not be rewarded using this.
a) Freedom is a huge reward. Playing in the woods, not needing to be called back immediately when galloping after friends, and running those long legs all over the place. This is huge to most dogs.
b) Being able to be out and about with the family in different places and environments that allow dogs is a huge reward.
Argument 11) Science is against shock collars.
a) The "science" they used are based on flawed studies with dogs being shocked (not stimmed) at random instead of with a purpose of communication. Yes, that will make a dog neurotic and scared.
b) Note, there is no real big source that is funding studies on dog collars LOL. The biggest and best aren't out there outlining the perfect scientific study for this. When they are called upon for their expertise, it's normally at the request of the AR movements or these fanatics that are against training their dogs.
Argument 12) Traditional and electronic collars are designed to work through application of pain.
a) No that's absolutely not true with the exception of invisible electronic fence systems. Traditional collars are designed to not slip off the dog, to hold them in place, and give them a correction that need not be painful for not performing the command or for bolting et
b) Much the same way, but with benefits, the electronic collar is designed to be used at low levels in a training program. The low levels can be worked so they are barely felt, and the reward is the increased freedom.
Argument 13) Affective kinder and gentler methods exist than traditional training collars or electronic collars.
a) Here is a listing of what Truly Dog Friendly, No Shock Collar Coalition, and International Association of Positive Trainers find kinder and gentler, along with why some results based balanced trainers do not use these exclusively:
i) Treats-These can cause some dogs to be neurotic, while other rewards are more beneficial for them. I have personally owned dogs with heart conditions that can not eat a lot of treats. These same dogs reacted better to the benefits of a partnership, soft praise, and a pat on the head than to a treat.
ii) Haltis-Not good for training your dog off leash due to injury. Off leash training provides more control, socialization, and overall enjoyment for your dog. The halti also never stops correcting your dog. Not considered dog-friendly in those circles.
iii) Clickers-Good for initial training, but not well for distraction off leash training. Great for trick training and agility.
b) Another solution that these members have come up with is they would rather euthanize the dog if the above methods do not work. There are, after all, so many “good” dogs out there.
i) Just because a dog does not respond well to treats, clickers or halti type “training”, does not mean the dog is a bad dog.
ii) Other equipment and training works more due to the control over stronger and bigger animals than we are used to managing in our more sedentary domesticated lives. They mimic the kind of correction another dog would give them, without the injury or long term consequences! Also without the pain that an actual dog bite would inflict.
iii) Dogs are not disposable (or should not be), though for safety reasons of the owner, family, and other humans and animals; I would possibly recommend that this solution be looked into. However, many dogs that are out there simply respond to a good training plan with a responsible owner.
iv) A dog already in a home with a loving owner should definitely have a chance to continue their life there. Their lives are not devalued just because they have not been taught how to respond appropriately in our environment.
Argument 14) Kinder and gentler equipment exists (head haltis and other haltis or citronella collars).
a) Haltis of the head or under the arms and citronella collars are all tools where the dog can not get away from the negative stimulus.
b) As someone who gets headaches from strong smells, I would think the citronella collar would be torture for a dog.
c) Not only is the stimulation for a traditional collar or electronic collar completely controlled by the owner/handler, it is not used much at all if the dog is trained. Not only can it be used lightly, but the sensation can be as light as a tap on the shoulder. That tap goes away once the dog is again focused on you.
Argument 15) They must always continue to wear the traditional collar or electronic collar to behave.
a) If you have not done your training work, that would be true. However, even so, the traditional and electronic collar are off more client’s dogs much sooner than is comfortable for me, so I can’t see how that can be true.
b) All my dogs have been trained on traditional and electronic collar tools, and this has provided them with the ability to be off equipment most of the time. We run a daycare here without fences, and during those times the dogs on the property have their e-collars on in case of an emergency, because I am not going to risk health and safety to anything to make a point.
Argument 16) People do not have the timing skills to use the traditional collars or electronic collars.
a) You do need to learn skills to do anything well. I would not have learned to do calligraphy even horribly without lessons. Thank goodness though that there are teachers out there willing to give you their knowledge.
b) Balanced results-orientated trainers call this the “dumb down” of the general public. More and more people do not know how to train dogs, as the better trainers creating less homes for dogs with simply solved problems.
c) It is not brain surgery or rocket science, and it is helpful to have a professional there to show you an efficient and effective way to train a dog for the inexperienced.
Argument 17) They do work, but……see above.
a) This is the argument that is used by members of Truly Dog Friendly, No Shock Collar Coalition, or International Association of Positive Trainers right before the “train with pain” motto is initiated. See point #1.
b) Low levels as used in training plans of knowledgeable trainers do not hurt. Dogs do not learn well in response to real stress or pain as a training method. They do not need to hurt in order to work, anymore than any other training method or tool needs to pain to work.
Argument 18) They don’t work.
a) This is the argument these groups use for euthanizing any dog that can not or is hard to train with treats, clickers, and haltis. The argument is that it's false to assume that other training methods actually work, especially in order to make a hard to manage dog a safe family member.
b) They do work in training plan, just as any other piece of equipment does and can.
Argument 19) Clicker training is a more perfect and scientific choice.
a) Scientists discovered that it was useful in training Dolphins, Whales and Bears for medical procedures et. However, one does not often live with Dolphins Whales or Bears.
b) Training focuses on how we learn to build a language between ourselves and our dogs for every day living. For many of us, our dogs spend a large amount of time in our lives, where more exotic animals would not.
Argument 20) The traditional training collar or electronic collar is not “dog-friendly” and certainly not “truly dog-friendly”.
a) That depends whether you are defining it using the version of "dog friendly" as used by the political dog training groups of Truly Dog Friendly, No Shock Collar Coalition or International Association of Positive Dog Trainers. Or are you using the more reasonable definition of dog friendly, as in the attached article?
Argument 21) The e-collar works on the “dominance theory” only.
a) No it works based on partnership and communication that is initiated by a successful training plan.

b) Some groups are using "dominance theory" of their definition to define other methods such as the Dog Whisperer's methods, because their business is threatened by his popularity.
Argument 22) No one can explain exactly how the e-collar works.
a) Actually most results orientated balanced trainers can tell you how ALL of the equipment that they use works.
b) This is meant to be the same argument as "train with pain" on point number one. The implication being that if it can't be explained, it must be painful no matter what one's own senses and observation tells them or not.
c) The e-collar works in a training plan, the same as any other piece of equipment in a training plan would work, except that you don't get bogged down with a leash, and your timing can be much better, when used properly.
Argument 23) Traditionally or e-collar trained dogs are so calm, because they fear doing something wrong
.a) They are calm because they have been trained. Training provides a dog with a sense of safety, because their owner is looking out for them and all their needs. They have nothing to worry about.
b) Play time is still exciting, but a responsible owner always has this happening to challenge and entertain their dog. Dogs who lack this in their daily lives become over excited about the prospect of playing.
Argument 24) Used by people who simply can not be bothered to use patience to train their dog.
a) Haltis are the most often used equipment that such people would use.
b) An e-collar is not going to work well for training purposes for someone who lacks patience. Abusive and irresponsible people can find any number of things to abuse their dogs with.
c) It is used to quickly reward the dog with the freedoms that can be experienced once trained. It’s true, some people do not advance farther than a off leash “let’s go” command with their dog, but on a halti people, generally, advance even less than that.



Need your dog trained? Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com services page. Or contact me at 207-809-6300 in York Maine. Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.



Say no to HSUS, PETA, No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC), International Association of Positive Dog Trainers (IAPDT), or Truly Dog Friendly Organization (TDF). Articles and information on why I do not support these organizations is on here and here.







Need your dog trained?  Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com services page.   Or contact me at 207-361-4395 in York Maine.   Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.


Say no to HSUS, PETA, No Shock Collar Coalition (NSCC) or Truly Dog Friendly Organization (TDF).  Articles and information on why I do not support these organizations is on here and here.

Why Train Your Dog?

So many people do not train their dogs.   Some humans don't want to.   Some humans feel their dog is already well mannered as it is.   Some people have gone to training classes but not left with a trained dog (trained to a standard, and I will discuss that in another article).  However, living with a trained dog makes life so much easier.   I only wish people knew that once the work was put in, living with your dog is a delight NOT a chore.

Here are some reasons to train your dog that benefit both members of the team:

· Your dog is happier because he/she understands what you want.

What are people thinking when they ask an untrained dog to sit? I know the dog is thinking “Whattttt??????” Dogs are not born with an innate ability to understand English, even if to us those words are the most common commands used. If your dog isn’t trained, he/she has no idea what you want of him/her. They will try to figure it out, and try out a few options on you in the process. In the end though, they will go for the most rewarding (to them) thing to do, as that will be easiest.

When dogs understand what the command means, they are much happier. This comes through training (or teaching) the dogs exactly what the commands mean to us. The pressure of having to be in control of the situation is now taken away from the dog and put onto the owner. For most dogs, this is such a relief! It is the owner’s job to feed, protect, guide, and lead their charges.

· Strengthening the bond between dog and owner.

The strongest bond between dog and owner is the made during and after training. By teaching your dog the commands and working through issues, you will get to know and trust your dog. Your dog will get to know and trust you, if this is done properly There is nothing like the feeling of accomplishment when your dog downs for the first time perfectly amid other dogs, balls being thrown, treats tossed on the floor, and humans stepping over them. The pride that you will feel in yourself and in your dog is amazing. Now transfer that same pride to every day situations where you can comfortable travel, take a walk, go to your local Petco, and have friends come and visit you.

· Safety for you and your dog.

Ever walk your dog on a treacherous ice covered sidewalk? The last thing you need to worry about is your dog pulling you down, as he races or pulls his way where he/she wants to go. Correctly taught commands such as “heel” or “sit” are staples in making sure such accidents do not occur. The dog will benefit, because the owner is bound to walk him/her more often if it is a pleasure. The owner will benefit by not finding himself/herself hurtling down the front stairs.

Leashes and collars sometimes become undone unexpectedly. If your dog is untrained, this can be an almost certain life threatening situation depending on where you are. Trained dogs can be stopped in their tracks, usually, before tragedy strikes. Any way, your chances are astronomically better with a trained dog.

· On the road with your dog.

You may get into a pet friendly hotel once with an untrained dog. The hotel will probably not invite you back a second time, however. Dogs who are trained are allowed certain privileges that others cannot be given. Restaurants can be convinced at times to allow you and your dog to eat on the outside deck. A boat tour can be wheedled into allowing your dog on board. Life and the adventures that go along with living become more fun for the both of you, because you are both together.

· Visiting company with your dog or company visiting you and your dog.

Most people, who don’t like dogs, really mean that they don’t like untrained dogs. Guests of owners who have untrained dogs know the signs:

Excessive jumping

Getting underfoot all the time

Begging for food

Guarding their toys

Snapping over food items

•  Avoiding 80% of behavioral problems, including those that frequently crop up as dogs age and develop arthritis and other health issues. 

Behavioral issues once started and allowed to develop only get worse.   Training a dog out of behavioral issues is harder once they have had practice at it, especially years of practice.  

Also as dogs get older, the most mellow of dogs can become concerned about being bumped into and stepped on.   The ability to have communication with your dog can keep them comfortable, feel safe, and remove them from situations that would be painful.

• Humans get injuries and get old.   When that happens is not the time to start to think about training your dog!

I have two requests in for residency programs for people who will be recooping from surgery, and possibly not be as stable as they once were.   It is expensive to do this later on, when someone else needs to do the up front training for you.   It is much easier when you have prepared your dog early on to be a helpmate to you by heeling by your side, and being used to performing commands in distracting places.

Some pictorial reasons to train your dog as well.   If your dog is not able to be in public, have adventures, and/or does not get along well in a pack of well behaved dogs. look into training with a professional results orientated dog trainer.   Your dog will thank you for it!  Many of these are of dogs having freedom and fun, but training is how we all got to that place.

A trained dog is a pleasure to most everyone. Friends will feel more at ease coming to your house, and interacting with your dog if he/she can behave and mind commands when given.


Mannerly Mutts offers private lessons, group lessons, day train program, and residency programs for your training needs.  If you are ready to go to work, please fill out the client interview form.

It’s never to late to start, and make a big change in your dog’s life.

http://www.mannerlymutts.com
http://mannerlymutts.blogspot.com

Why quality dog training equipment is needed and where to find it

Many reasons exist as to why inferior equipment has become so popular at most pet supply stores. One is the economy that has caused many people to tighten their belts. Two is the popularity of some training methods that try to provide reliable training sans means of containment (like leashes). Three much of the population has moved away from off leash dog training or having a reliable off leash trained dog. Four is the lack of knowledge pet stores have of training equipment and why quality is required by trainers for their customers.

Regarding inexpensive reasoning: Cheaply priced products also tend to be cheaply made. The price differential between metal training collars is a matter of a couple of dollars to the consumer. Sadly those consumers will not find the recommended Herm Sprenger collars in most pet supply shops. What consumers will find are cheaply made metal collars from over seas. The store owners and/or employees are not going to know to tell consumers that these collars are more likely to break or snap. Also store owners and employees will most likely not understand the cleaner function of a Herm Sprenger collar so a dog is cleanly corrected and NOT choked or pulled around.

Quality prong collars have ends that are smooth and rounded. Cheap prong collars have rough sharped edged prongs, which is not how the collar is supposed to be used. Again, it's literally only a few dollars that seperate the retail price of the two. In my opinion, it's always well worth the extra dollars to have the best quality equipment for training my dog and my clients' dogs.

On leashes, the heavier brass hardware does not break like the cheap nickel hardware does. Equipment can be a lifesaver for a dog in training or an untrained dog, but not so much if it's cheaply made. Buying equipment that is a few bucks less, can be costly for you, your family, and your canine in the long run in veterinary costs or emotional costs.

Regarding other popular training methods: Many of the general public and trainers understand that the level of correction on a piece of equipment is totally in the hands of the handler. Additionally, some dogs are much stronger than their owners, and were allowed to grow up with little to no training guidance. For these and other reasons, there will always be a place for well made training equipment. There will always exist temperaments of dogs that will need a training period that requires control and guidance. Unfortunately, the dog training profession has for awhile come to believe that limiting the dogs' life and experiences is preferable to training them, so that they may enjoy all the life and experiences possible in life. An audience still exists,however,for real training regardless of what training equipment and methods are used. Real training means in the end that neither corrections or rewards are necessary for first command performance.

Also these training collars provide another very important function. Dogs, when sized right, can not slip their heads out of them if they want to get away or are in the middle of a panic attack.

Moving away from confinement or leash training: It may surprise you to know that most off leash training, by that I mean reliable in any distraction off leash training, starts with a leash. Many customers are fooled because young dogs and puppies will naturally follow you, at first. If you have never given them the idea that there is a range that they must not wander from you, then they have no way of knowing that is what you wanted when adolescence kicks in. While throwing the ball may catch some dogs attention during most things, loose that ball and you loose your dog if this is relied on as training. Quality leashes that make training easier by their sturdiness as well as comfort are always going to be necessary at least as training equipment. If you have not ever owned a quality leather leash, then you have no idea what you are missing. I go a step further and have a convertible, police, euro, or multi purpose leash.

Lack of knowledge in most pet stores: If my client happens to find a decent training collar in a pet store, most often they will come back with an ill fitting collar. Although I send them with instructions, the store owner or employee most often sells my clients the wrong size. Not only that, they will have no idea why a trainer may have selected a certain manufacturer or type. In this climate, you are also as likely to have the store owner tell your client why they should not buy the equipment.

Because of this, I have needed to come up with resources for my clients to get decent training equipment when I may not have it. Please feel free to use the below resources that are provided:

Leashes 6' Leather: First, things to look for in a quality leather leash 6' leash. 1) Not two pieces of material sewn together. They come part, and there is no need for this. 2) For training, I prefer a thick 3/4' width on the leash. 3) For training, do not buy any shorter than a 6' lead, this is a pretty ideal length for use in dog training. 4) I prefer rivets or stitched with rivets on my leads. 5) For training, heavy brass hardware is ideal for the snap and other metal hardware that may be on it.

Hogans Custom Leather **I personally buy leashes from this company

Pro-Mohs **guarantee products/be sure to look up their guarantee

JB Pet Supply ***variety and cheaper prices can be found here. be sure to compare their collars to the rules above, and do not be afraid to call and ask

Leashes 15' or more Longe Lines: **Unless this is for a very small dog, I prefer the heavy brass hardware on Longe Lines. I also prefer cotton although they tangle more, if you take care of them they tend to stay in shape more. The following vendor does not have my specifics, but this is as close as I could get. I have a distributor who does, but she only sells to wholesale clients. JB Pet Supply

Herm Sprenger Training Collars: JB Pet Supply
Muzzles-Basket: I have not found a distributor yet to supply myself with these, but here are some sites that I found. They appear to carry the plastic basket muzzle that I prefer. The closure clips are buckles rather than the plastic closures. The plastic closures have actually seperated before on dogs where a muzzle was required. You DO NOT want to have that happen .

Morrco Pet Supply

Dog Muzzle

Muzzles-Soft Mesh Breathable: PetEdge

As always, please see a professional dog trainer before attempting to use a training collar yourself. Many times the training begins without the collar at first. Correct knowledge and use of training collars is very important to get the results that are expected.

Maine and New Hampshire Dog Trainer
Mannerly Mutts Dog Training Blog
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Dog Training Definition Part 4

Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It’s important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these definitions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects. Some of the following definitions are a lot more detailed outside of the dog training or behavior modification world. These are the basics talked about as referenced (generally) by dog trainers. This is part four of the definitions and basics postings.
Ever wonder what those trainers or behavior modification people are talking about? While these might not be the only definitions in the dog world or otherwise, these might give you a clue!!

Ever wonder what those trainers or behavior modification people are talking about? While these might not be the only definitions in the dog world or otherwise, these might give you a clue!!



Classifications of Temperaments in Dogs:

• Core Temperament (or just definition of temperament)- Traits of personality that are inborn and genetic in nature.  While this might sound dire in dog training, while the core of one's personality, generally, won't be changed, it does not mean that responses can not be improved through training.  One other thing I would point out in my particular definition of dog training, these can be one aspect of a dog and not a way to describe a dog, necessarily, in the whole of their personality.   We identify temperaments in dogs to understand the best paths that have worked in training and behavior modification in the past in order to start a training plan (one of many things taken into consideration).  An even better definition of temperament as it applies to dogs is described as sound or unsound for a specific task.   This takes out the negatives, and focuses on temperament in a more positive light.

• Sound-Ideal for doing a job or task

• Unsound-Not ideal for doing a job or task

Some people will think the following temperament descriptions indicate that a dog may be sound or unsound.  Sometimes these things actually make a dog an ideal candidate for a certain task.

• Sharp-Over reacts in an adverse way  to things most other dogs would not react adversely to.
• Shy-Hesitant to be affectionate right away, but not quite fearful.
• Fearful-Extreme fear in situations that most other dogs would not react adversely to.   Reactions can range from trying to hide behind or under something, shaking, lip licking, to biting or attacking if feeling cornered.   Fearful dogs do not always bite, but cornering them or making some feel trapped can trigger an adverse reaction in some fearful dogs.
• High Activity Drive-This is the type of dog many call hyper or reactive.   This is a dog normally of exceptional physical and mental abilities.   These types of dogs often need a lot of exercise, but more than that a job usually helps them exercise their mind as well.
• Aggressive-There are many different ways to define aggression in the dog training world.   I describe it as a forward and confident action on the part of the dog to inflict a warning or harm.   Whereas fearful is a more defensive and backward position of a dog lacking confidence.
• Dominant-A dog that seeks to control resources.   They may not do this, in my opinion, in an aggressive way, but they will seek to control things in their surrounding (owners, treats, toys, territory, furniture)
• Independent-A free thinker.  This dog does not necessarily need or want human guidance as a rule.

Classifications of Drive (sometimes these are called positive or negative drives by some trainers, I think they all have a use and a place with dogs that can be either depending on the situation):

• Prey Drive-Urge and action of chasing, grabbing, and subduing a fast moving item.

• Pack Drive-Urge and desire to participate in a social group.

• Food Drive-Not that dogs like to eat or like food, but they are motivated to perform and learn a task when rewarded by food.

• Play Drive-Dogs that are motivated and learn to perform a task through the use of toys and games with others (humans or canines).

• Defense -The action of protecting oneself from a perceived threat.

• Rank-Desire to raise in stature in a social group.

• Avoidance-A drive that comes into play when the stress level becomes too much for the dog. They will seek to avoid the stress.

• Fight Drive-The ability to forwardly protect or defend themselves or their resources.

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Dog Training Definitions Part 3

Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It’s important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these definitions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects. Some of the following definitions are a lot more detailed outside of the dog training or behavior modification world. These are the basics talked about as referenced (generally) by dog trainers. This is part three of the definitions and basics postings.
Ever wonder what those trainers or behavior modification people are talking about? While these might not be the only definitions in the dog world or otherwise, these might give you a clue!!

• Reward-Something your dog is known to enjoy which will increase the likelyhood of an action or behavior.  In dog training, rewards do not happen constantly to control behavior, but are given for excellent or brand new performance.
• Bribe-Relying on constant rewards (usually readily handy like treats or toys) to get the performance of a command.
• Markers-A way to communicate to your pet that they have performed correctly.
• Bridge-Transferring a reward like a treat to a noice like the noise of a clicker in it's place (much of the time).  
• Poisoned cue-(thought to be first used by Karen Prior)  Where a perfectably useable was used before, but now has been "poisoned by not so nice methods".  
• Correction-A way of firming up a performance that is not quite right or is wrong.   Body movements for a sit in line with handler position, or a leash and collar correction for non compliance are just one of the very many different ways to correct.
• Diversion-Using another stimulus to divert a dog from the wrong action.   This is somewhat related to the next defintion of trade.
• Trade-Trading something of value for a command like out or leave it.  Some people rely on this to take something away from a snarky or aggressive dog that has something that they shouldn't or is dangerous to them.
• Desensitisation-Working with a dog well below their threshold to get them used to a stimulus (strange dogs, strange people, strange noises et)
• Habituation-Working with at their threshold to get them used to stimulus (strange dogs, strange people, strange noises et)
• Flooding-Working with at way above their threshold to get them used to stimulus (strange dogs, strange people, strange noises et)

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Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
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Dog Training Definitions Part 2

Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It's important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these definitions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects. Some of the following definitions are a lot more detailed outside of the dog training or behavior modification world. These are the basics talked about as referenced (generally) by dog trainers. This is part two of the definitions and basics postings.

Ever wonder what those trainers or behavior modification people are talking about. While these might not be the only definitions in the dog world or otherwise, these might give you a clue!!


Drive-The level of desire for something which results in a behavior


Motivation-The act of designing the circumstances in which a dog wants to and participates in learning. The energizing force that results in a behavior.

Generally, most trainers are talking about the presentation of a reward, as chosen by the dog, in order to design the motivation.

It can also be used in some dog training circles to talk about the motivation to avoid something unpleasant.

This is not MY definition of motivation in dog training, however. I am talking about creating a desire to participate not a desire to avoid when I use the word "motivation" in this sense.

Conditioning-Per the free dictionary-"a learning process in which an organism's behavior becomes dependent on the occurrence of a stimulus in its environment."

Classical Conditioning-Also known as Pavlovian or respondent conditioning, classical conditioning is a form of associative learning, which was first demonstrated by Ivan Pavlov. A common procedure to begin classical conditioning involves the use of a neutral stimulus along with a significant stimulus which would induce obvious acknowledgement by the subject. The significant stimulus brings about an ingrained response.

Use in dog training or behavior modification-When talked about in dog training, bridges would be an example of classical conditioning. The example of a bridge would be a clicker (or yes, good boy, target stick) when clicker training protocols are used. Behavior modification procedures of making other stimulus less intimidating (such as strange humans or unexpected noises) by associating these with something the dog likes (IE most likely food) is another example.

• Neutral Stimulus-Something that starts out with no innate response from a being.
• Conditioned Stimulus (CS)-Something that gets a response after being paired with an unconditioned stimulus.
• Conditioned Response (CR)-Also known as conditional reflex, is the action resulting when presented wit the now conditioned stimulus.
• Unconditioned Stimulus (US)-Something that obviously and instantly gets a response. It does not need conditioning.
• Unconditioned Response (UR)-The response to an unconditioned stimulus.
• Associative Learning-As per wikipedia "Associative learning is the process by which an element is learned through association with a separate, pre-occurring element."

Counter Conditioning- Per the free dictionary is "conditioning in which a second incompatible response is conditioned to an already conditioned stimulus"
Used typically in dog training by teaching a sit so the dog can't do a typical jump onto a person. A well taught sit is incompatible with jumping. Or, in other words, the dog can't both jump and sit at the same time.


Operant Conditioning-B.F. Skinner formulated a detailed model based on reinforcement, punishment, and extinction (be sure to read the definitions used with this below-these are not the general definitions of these words outside of dog training or behavior modification). It is the process of changing the form of behavior through the use of consequences.

• Reinforcement-increasing the likelyhood of the behavior
• Punishment-decreases the likelyhood of the behavior
• Negative-to take something out of the equation
• Positive-to add something to the equation
• Extinction-Produces neither favorable or unfavorable results. The action or behavior, therefore, occurs less and less frequently than before.
• Four Quadrants of this learning theory-(R+) Positive Reinforcement to increase the likelyhood of behavior by adding something, (R-) Negative Reinforcementto increase the likelyhood of behavior by taking something away, (P+) Positive Punishment to decrease the likelyhood of behavior by adding something, and (P-) Negative Punishment to decrease the likely hood of behavior by taking something away

Uses in dog training are limitless using the four quadrants. Here are just a couple of examples. (Positive Reinforcement) You reward with food after a desired behavior to increase the likelyhood of that behavior, when called for, again. (Negative Punishment) You take away your attention to decrease the likelyhood of your dog jumping on you.
Punishment-

• Necessary Action Punishment (not used with the learning theory of Operant Conditioning) An action that may be swift, necessary, and adversive but that is not used as a teaching tool. To me, punishment occurs when the opportunities for training or management have been missed.
• Negative Punishment such as used in Operant Conditioning would be a time out in a crate. You are taking away attention in order to decrease an undesireable behavior. This sort of punishment does teach and help your dog make a correlation regarding what actions get attention taken away.
• Abusive Punishment is abuse. (a definition for another posting, abuse)

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
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Dog Training Definitions Part 1

Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It's important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these definitions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects.

• Fear (as defined by some dog trainers) Fearful behavior is generally the backward movement (not confident) of a dog away from the feared stimulus, perhaps until they are cornered. When describing a dog's behavior as fearful, many trainers are talking about the defense drive. The dog wants to avoid something that it is not sure of. Normally when a trainer is talking about a fearful behavior in a dog, they are saying their is an exaggerated response to a stimulus that would otherwise be non-threatening to the general canine domesticated population.
• Coddling A human behavior which seeks to give comfort to the dog.   However, this is comfort done wrong, inadvertently instead reinforcing a fearful or unwanted behavior.   With coddling, a behavior gets worse instead of better.  Example:  I used to crawl in the closet with my thunder fearful dog, Jazz.   Instead of getting calmer about thunder, she got worse and worse.   Finally, when I began looking into dog training as a career in 2003, I was explained that not doing that, and instead going about the house as if nothing was amiss would help her more.  I did that, and her phobia about thunder became less and less.
• Temperament The estimation of whether a dog is suitable or not suitable to a particular task based on observation of their responses to that stimuli.
• Aggression ( I tend to untangle my definition from overlapping with fear or dominant as to the best of my ability) A canine with the confidence of forward moving action in order to further a goal.
• Dominant The behavior of confidently or with extreme willfulness to seek to control resources.
• Behavior Modification In dog training this is a series of steps and exercises that seek to improve a behavior in the domesticated canine that is seen as unsuitable to the human family or handler's purpose. (IE being a pet dog, a police dog, a therapy dog and so on) IMO the possibility of behavior modification is greatly enhanced by the knowledge of dog training, and in most cases I feel dog training is necessary to communicate to the dog in order to get to behavior modification practices.
• Dog Training The practice of teaching a way of communication to and for the canine/human relationship to work optimally. IMO dog training in most cases (except the most bomb proof of dogs) requires many elements of behavior modification as well.

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
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How To Learn About Dog Training and Behavior Modification

(this is a reposting of an article from years ago as well)

A couple of years ago, I received a request regarding how to find the knowledge to become a dog trainer or someone specializing in behavior modification. Part of the answer can be found in a post that I wrote last year of some very specific questions that were sent to me.

NOTE: On a side note, the young lady, addressed in the linked blog, came here for a time to observe me working dogs, and also to help with her own dogs fear issues. I am happy to say that she is now helping dogs in rescue using these techniques. She was able to foster and place a rescue this year. I am very proud of her, and she has become a friend.


Training can become a specialty or niche. You could do puppy training, obedience competition training, hunting dog training, agility training, clicker training, e-collar training, and so on. You could even choose sizes, temperaments, or breeds that you will specialize in. Training is about teaching dogs communication between the owner and the dog. So in just training, if you wished, you can limit yourself to tools, methods, and types of dogs. You could do this, and do a very good job of it, assuming you know how to weed out different dog personalities.

Behavior modification is about changing the dogs responses to different stimulus. You could specialize a bit in this by saying that you don't work with aggressive dogs or dogs over a certain size. However, in order to IMHO be successful in behavior modification, you need to be able to and seek to work with a wide variety of dogs. It's very important to know as many individual personalities of dogs, and to be able to read those dogs. You also want to soak up as much information as possible on the different methods and tools out there.

How do you expose yourself to that knowledge? I am actually trying to work on a website (with other canine professionals) that will later be a guide to both dog owners and up and coming trainers to make those resources available. I hope to do that in their geographical region. In the meantime, here is some advice based on my personal experiences and research.

In looking for places or people that may mentor you, please keep in mind the following lessons that I learned the hard way:

1. False advertising. There is no regulation in the dog training industry. Just because someone says they are the "finest dog trainer in New England" or "#1 Mass Dog Trainer" does not make it so.  I would ask anyone that boasted such a thing to show me the facts, figures, and public articles to justify their boast. Realize that nothing prevents them from making such a boast. It's easy to look impressive to a beginner or a novice trainer (and the trainers sited may have impressive qualities but being number one or the finest in the geographical areas listed isn't one of them). Many times trainers won't disclose that other trainers (other than themselves) have actually helped their students full fill their goals IN ADDITION to their services. They also won't make it known how many YEARS (not weeks or months) their student may have spent with them to make the most minimal progress. Just keep in mind that these type of people are, at best, untrustworthy. Anyone who feels the need to mislead others regarding their skills rather than being objective and honest, is not the best in the area (and probably will not tell you who the others are that may help you). You might still learn from them, but you should take their boasting with a grain of salt.
2. Dog World Nepotism-The dog world can sometimes be very reliant on friendships and personal relationships. Dog trainers may recommend each other, even if they are doubtful of another's skills due to business relationships alone. Many times trainers will recommend clients that are far from them to another trainer, and both want to continue that relationship due to the fact that it builds both of their businesses. However, keep in mind, it may have to do with a personal relationship AND HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH steering you in the right direction.
3. Paid Apprenticeship Should Not Be Slave Labor-If you are paying thousands of dollars for an education, and you find yourself doing things that seem not related (or needed) for dog training, probably someone has found a way to take advantage of another paying for their apprenticeship training services. I pick up poop everyday for my own business, and if someone was paying me for an apprenticeship, I would not expect them to do things that really did not further their training knowledge. Sometimes you may be able to trade labor for knowledge, and that is different.
4. Apprenticeship Should Not Limit Your Ability to Have a Full Education-Individual dog trainers can be a bit draconian at times. This is especially true of those that may not have had a well rounded education themselves. They may have learned from someone who wanted to be THEIR only authority, and this may be how they decide to handle others that are invited to learn from them. Beware that some mentors will not want you to handle your own education. However, you should feel free to read, talk to, and learn about whatever methods you want to add to your tool belt. Just like when you go to college, you can choose your own curriculum and teachers. While you need to learn and listen to that teacher, when class is out your ideas and values are your own.
5. Shelters Tend Toward P+ Only-Every trainer uses positive reinforcement (+R) training in order to be successful. However, there are other ways to make dog training successful as well. With the push for one movement of trainers, veterinarians, and behaviorists came what I consider a marketing scheme to successfully own the brunt of the dog training industry. The only problem was, that not all dogs (while perhaps a larger portion of dogs do) don't fit the "cookie cutter" mold of training OR behavior modification. Many dog professionals not aware of what was going on, have fallen for this marketing plan. Also it's important to realize that shelters really don't, usually, have the resources to acquire a dog trainer on staff. Also the liability for a behaviorally challenged dog that could be set loose on an unknowing and unprepared public creates quite a liability. So while you will become familiar with dog personalities and handling many different dogs, that will only be a small part of your full dog training education. It can be a very rewarding and informative part of an education however. Also, there is nothing wrong with picking up luring, food/toy motivation, and those sort of methods anywhere. To do it well, you may be well advised to find a trainer that specializes AND IS successful training dogs to a standard.
6. Dog Training Schools-There are A FEW well known dog training schools that IMHO can give a good base knowledge. The cons? They are expensive, they are far away if you don't live in the geographical area, and some of their living accommodations have been reported to be gross (however, you could stay in a hotel or apartment while there). Triple Crown and National K9 are very highly talked of. Remember though, this also won't be all of your dog training education. Generally schools like this not only allow you to work and train your own dog, but also provide different dogs for you to work with! Online schools like ABC, CAS Institute, and Karen Pryor Academy are of one particular mindset of dog training. Therefore the information that you get online will not corrections, tools that are generally used, and methods beyond what that sect of dog training has approved. Whether you choose to use all tools in dog training or not, IMHO, you should learn about everything so that you can intelligently and knowledgably communicate your methods to your students.
7. Professional Organizations and How They Can Help-Professional organizations are a wondeful because they put you in contact with other professionals via online groups. There you will see a wealth of information on tools, methods, health issues, and the political issues in the dog world (or at least the ones that are not moderated and involved in blocking comments that they do not like. My professional organization is the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP). I love this organization because it is largely trainer populated, but they have many other professionals in there. Therefore there is an exchange of ideas between dog walkers, groomers, veterinarians, et al. In my opinion this is the finest or one of the finest professional canine organizations. You can become an endorsed member of the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (NADOI) once you have at least five years experience in dog obedience training (2 years as an instructor). Both of these organizations have tests that include written and demonstrated proficiency in your craft. I have lost all respect for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT). They also test their certified instructors on a strictly multiple choice test. For the same reasons that I don't care for some well known behaviorists and trainers, the organization speaks out of both sides of it's mouth instead of marrying the convictions that it obviously already has. If they would just genuinely decide on a side, I would rejoin. Profits are too much of a drive for this organization instead of the service to it's members.
   
   
   
8. Behaviorists-I know of a few well known behaviorists, and I don't think much of them. That being said, this does not mean that there are not talented and knowledgeable behaviorists out there. Dr. Nicholas Dodman and Ian Dunbar have peppered the industry with some of the more damaging marketing gimics and information that I know of. Dr Dodman made Prozac the miracle drug to behaviorally challenged dogs everywhere, and completely ignored that irresponsible dog owners or lack of training can make dogs crazy. Ian Dunbar should have kept to his theories about puppy school and socialization, but instead he has completely ignored the personalities of dogs that come from far different circumstances or pretends they don't exist. He created quite a rift within the Association of Dog Training Professionals with his influence. Interestingly enough, both were not born in the USA, but in countries where there are very extreme opinions on dog training and care. If you can find a behaviorist that has proven and verifiable skill in training dogs as well, I believe you would find someone worthy to study with or under.
   
   
   
9. Trainers-There are the good, the bad, and the ugly out there. Actually, there are the excellent out there. They are not on television shows. Most often they are old and curmugeonly:) Not very marketable in a world that likes to see physically fit and attractive people talking about any kind of skill. There are the Julia Childs of the dog training industry out there. I don't know them all. In fact I had the devil of a time finding the ones that were worth it, and I went through some of the ugly. Ones that I have found of note are (and I have not met them all, some of these are on reputation alone) Margot Woods, Vivian Bregman, Martin Deeley, George Hobson, Behesha Doan, Carolyn Scott, Joann Lawson, and Janice Gunn. It is not easy to find the trainers who really excel at their craft, but here is a place to start. Combine that with the right professional organizations, and you will start to find yourself pointed in the right directions. ***Please note most if not all of these trainers are quite experienced in behavior modification techniques.

What things should you cover in your training/behavior modification education?

• As much information as you can possibly learn about off leash training a regular old easy to train dog to a veifiable standard (AKC competition or some kind of measurable standard that is dependent upon an outside parties judgement). I am not talking about Rally or CGC but Novice, Open, and Utility training. At the minimum, you should be able to get a Companion Dog Title on a few dogs.
• Learn about as many methods of training as you can, and that will also begin to give you a clue as to how to modify and change behavior in a dog that is not displaying acceptable behavior.
• Dealing with behavioral issues sometimes goes outside the scope of traditional training. It's not often that you need to train a dog to accept brushing, or collar changes, or being petted from the front. Researching and learning from people that may have needed to step outside of the box, will give you ideas for the future. They may not have all the answers, but it will give you a sense of how to step outside the box for yourself in ways that make sense.
• Behaviors that are natural to a dog and acceptable in the dog world. This does not mean that we need to live with or accept them, but it gives you as a trainer an understanding of what is truly unusual and what is not.
• Body language and facial expressions in dogs. (you don't want to major in the minors with this, but you do want to be aware)
• Breed charateristics and differences. (you don't want to major in the minors with this, but you do want to be aware)
• Medical and physical issues that affect the tolerance or patience levels of dogs.
• What questions to ask to get an accurate case history on a dog.
• Things to consider and think about before taking on a case (including contracts et that need to be drafted).
• Ways to measure progress, and determine if you are going in the right direction.
• How the different ages in dogs and puppies affects them physically and mentally.
• And anything else I didn't think of LOL. There is a lot. Basically, be sure that you touch on anything related to dogs and the dog business.

What are the best ways to go about designing your educational experience?

• Identify ways to get the most hands on experience possible (safely).
  
  
  

• Shelters and rescues (transport, socializing, training program if they have one)
• Compete with your own dogs (if you don't have your own dog, consider that this is the best way to know day to day what it's like to live with a dog)
• Have neighbor dogs that need training?
• Advertsie that you are a beginning dog trainer that needs beginning clients. Charge accordingly and be sure to not take on anything too difficult.
• Apprenticeship or mentorship situation with experienced trainer or qualified behaviorist (see my notes on behaviorists).
  
  
  
• What can you afford in time, travel, and expense? There is a lot of knowledge out there, but if you go broke before you have even begun, it will do you no good in the long run. On the other hand, if you can afford time, travel, and expense there is a wealth of opportunity open to you that will jump start your experience. Research schools and opportunities well and thoroughly before writing out a check or spending time on the investment. There are some opportuntities that are well worth it (Triple Crown so I hear, some paid apprenticeships, and opportunties to go to in depth camps or informal schools).
  
  
  
• For those that do not have unlimited time and money, there are seminars that are very reasonably priced (ie pretty cheap considering what you get). You can do a day, a weekend or a week. If you live in the North East, I suggest that you don't wait for those seminars to come here. You may need to travel, but it may just be four or five hours to NJ or MD. Rarely do we get any seminars of any real worth IMO. I travelled to Missouri once to see a trainer that I wanted to see (Martin Deeley and George Hobson). I am hoping for a fall travel to Maryland this year to see Margot Woods again.
  
  
  
• Network and gather any available information from all professionals related with dogs (veterinarians, groomers, dog walkers, rescue organizations, individuals that rescue, animal control, vet technicians, professional organizations related to canine care, and your average dog owner).
  
  
  
• Read and watch. Books and DVDs, no matter how good, won't give you the whole story, but they will give you a lot. Professional organizations, like the IACP and APDT (couldn't find it anymore, or I would have shared the link), often have reading lists.

Mannerly Mutts Dog Training
Mannerly Mutts Blog
mannerly_mutt@yahoo.com

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